Bought a really bad project- so now what?

It fact you got screwed,hell he didn"even use a rubber,it is fixable,just don"t take it to any shop and get screwed again.it can definitly be done for less thsn ten thousand,if you want to spend money you can find a descent driver for around $6500 and keep the 34 as a project to work on,that dude that sold it to you has probably aready moved on your dollar .You are just one of his victims if you don"t want to post his name post a picture of the paperwork,ain"t no law again"t that.

 

Yeah, It's bad, but a good chassis guy / fabricator could re-do that mess in a week. The body looks nice.

 

Ditto to that. Pull the body off and spend a few days with a wrench set and a grinder, and you're back down to a clean frame. Box it, put a Stang II suspension under it (this thing is for his daughter, guys, forget the axle stuff), keep the rear end (it's probably an 8.8 which is fine), and put a simple but reliable rear suspension on it. $3000 and a lot of father-and-daughter elbow grease can make a nice rod out of it. And even if it's a 4-door, a '34 Sedan will always be a good piece, dollar-wise. It'll not be worth less than what you have in it, EVER, unless you or your daughter wrecks it.

Did you get*****ed? Yeah, if you thought you were buying an almost-ready hot rod. No, if you figured you bought a pile of parts that included a steel '34 body and a decent '34 frame.

Oh, and I would toss the Aerostar engine and*******. Those things weren't worth a***** in Aerostars. Our local U-Wrench-it has a bunch of Explorers with 302s in them and AOD*******s. $300 buys the engine and*******. Put a 4-barrel on them and get a simple wiring harness for the*******, and you're in business. You don't get to hear them run first, of course, but as they say, the vehicle was driven to the accident.

 

Brad Chevy, I'll definitely post a pic of the****le when I get home. Working in Minneapolis this week, so should have plenty of energy when I get home to get started on the tear down- after I clean up the garage so the project will fit.

 

Remember this person is deceptive,didn't care for the well of you or anyone else Turn his**** into dmv and talk to the district attorney. After looking at the pictures what happens if you had no knowledge of the mechanics and only relied on his b.s.. They are right on this forum take the****hole to court he sure didn't care about you. Buyer beware is probably what DMV they tell you. This person needs to have his name put on the HAMB hall of shame. I know theirs a lot of honest people on here he is not one of them. Good luck and I know there is lots great advise on this forum and help.

 

it's a nice body style I would remove all the garbage do the frame the way you want MII or a straight and the rear a late model axle and springs and mounts of your choice, and budget you have to shop as for the plumbing and wiring are easy do as much as you can and only pay when you need an expert.
That is what I call a rat rod and it has shiny paint it's plain unsafe

 

I doubt that you would gain anything , (and probably even just be spending more than what you have already), trying to hire an attorney and recover anything from the creep that bent you over on this. Beside the money, it would cost you a considerable amount of time and mental energy, and probably more frustration, as in the end, even if you gained a judgement against him that still doesn't mean you ever collect a penny. You might just do a quick check as to what the law in your state provides by way of protection, if any, to a buyer in a case like this. If it means you have to chase the money on a slim chance of getting it back I would just go on and use your time, money, and mental energy getting your car straightened out. In the end, it is a sum of it's components, and how they are put together, and if you plan and execute carefully you can have you a nice car still yet, if that is the way you decide to go. Good luck in whatever course you choose to take.

 

I'm sorry you got taken by some low life hack. That said, your post tells me you already have the right mindset to make the repairs yourself. If you go with original type parts for now, it'll be easier and you can always add a dropped axle later if you want. As for not having experience at this or that? I'm sure most of us on the HAMB have been there, done that but we dove in anyway, figured it out and got 'er done. The level of talent here is tremendous and these guys will help you get through it. Just keep us posted so we can cheer you on. Oh, and about the "serious cold beer"? Better buy a beer truck

 

So I've read all the responses and I for one am pretty shocked.

There has to be at least ONE HAMBer in the "DC Metro" area that can possibly help aggieforester out.
Now I'm not saying do all the work gratis(that's free for those that need to look it up...),but at least "donate" a little time.

Maybe a Car Club nearby can do a "thrash" on the car to at least get the suspension road worthy.

Isn't that the REAL reason we're here?

 

http://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum/showthread.php?t=507025&page=3

read the last post and you'll understand what I was trying to say

 

The body and actual frame don't look too bad. I'd suggest peeling the suspension pieces off, order bolt in front axle kit, rear spring kit from Chassis Engineering or Posies, or similar, and get it back on 4 wheels safely. Find a good running used RWD engine/transmission combination and install those. Wire it up with a good kit, and learn away. Ask around here on the HAMB, and see if there is anyone close to you to offer guidance and support. Encouragement and a helping hand can go along way in this hobby.

 

he's not a builder. more like butcher!

 

Being in the NOVA DC metro area, I would love to know who put that POS together. I'd be glad to donate some labor if ya need a hand.

 

It's funny how most of you guys just say buy new suspension and just bolt it in, get a new engine and trans and bolt it in, get new wiring and put it in, without seeing the build of the rest of the car. Yes Chassis engineering ETC makes kits that are "supposed" to just bolt in. Well any true builder knows this seldom happens, so if he cuts out the Areostart front end and puts a straight axle back in, no biggie right? What about steering clearence, engine to steering box clearance, firewall clearance so an and so on. It is NOT as easy and straight forward as many of you make it sound. I have many builds under my belt and still have yet to have an easy just bolt it in project. If this guy has minimal experience, he either needs to STOP and hire it out or step back and LEARN. Yes I agree a stang II or dropped axle front would be best along with a big 3 small block and auto******* etc, but stop making it sound so cheap and easy, it's not.

 

Sounds like it is above your head to fix the chassis?...so I guess you need to sell/trade.

The small pic of the body side looks pretty darn good to me.

I think it "was" a nice unmolested car in good shape before it was modded, so I think there is a very good car hiding there.

It's an EASY fix for the guy who understands Ford transverse...very easy. But to the average guy who just wants a driver, it's not that easy.

 

I would donate time if I were closer. If this guy is in business doing this stuff the attorney general would be most interested in him on his own dime. One thing for sure though, if your willing to turn a wrench, we are more than happy to advise as you go.

 

Looks as if Mikeco is a good starting point. Seek his help. He will offer other contacts. Cut the junk off the frame. Use Chassis Engineering and/or Pete and Jakes for quality parts. Wire it yourself with a aftermarket kit. Seek someone to****ist with setting up engine/trans mount. Accept the fact that you have bad buy and make the most out of it...you can make it work.

 

I can't see someone buying the car the way it is.He is going to take a lost on this car if he trys to sell it the way it is. Forget about Lawers. Put the money in the car. Even just removing all the junk off the car will make the car saleable if he wants to get some of his money back.If he wants to build the car he must have some experience, he has a 220 welder,grinders ,hand tools,etc.Yes most of the stuff don't fit.Just plan ahead and take your time,You know measure twice cut once. Joe

 

x2 on Aviator response Chassis eng. is a walk in the park if you can use a grinder and a drill motor their parts are bolt in's and work great I have built two 34 Ford phaeton's with their stuff and they seem to have it all worked out.Go for it... that***** that's there can be removed and ground clean add a droped front end and dual leaf springs (another bolt on) on the rear with an 8 ford rear end when tell every body I did it my self.....

 

Whether you choose to fix it or sell/trade is up to you. But I think you should rat the******** out that "built" that death trap on here. Christ, it's only a matter of time before that****hole kills someone. I'm glad you didn't get hurt driving it.

 

I think it was a solid car too. Looks like some*****head had a bright idea to make some money building a "street rod", and*****ed up a nice original car. Look at all the undercoating... I think this car was done right at one time, until this hack got a hold of it.

One thing i've learned, is that unless you're in love with the car, just cut your losses and move on to something you do love. It makes blowing huge chunks of money a little easier to deal with.

 

This has got to be some kind of cruel HAMB joke.

 

i know a few people who might have some things to trade in your area. i'll ask around if youd like?.? all ive got is a chopped 53 chevy 4 door with a 235 six auto. runs and drive fine. new interior. in primer. needs paint. that it.

 

Ive reviewed the pics again ,Needs a straight axle and a a new rear drive line ,Frame is probably ok .That other guy was definately a hack ,He was definately trying to fix it up fast and sell it .

 

why, that's a perfect example of Souf Cackalacka hawt rawding. Dreamworks can build you one just like it.

 

Looks like you could just drive it up and down the driveway a few times and all of that "upgraded" suspension will just fall right out.

Then all that's left to do it put a solid axle up front and you're good to go.

On a serious note, what's so scary is that all of those parts look dirty and worn in, as if someone was actually driving that heap around like that.

That is a scary thought.

 

Lesson learned, tuck your tail between your legs. Now its time to really learn something. That frame is fine...do your homework, join a local club and/or get to know some guys who are into this stuff. You can do it and there's tens of thousands of guys on this site who learned how to do it right. Just don't be afraid to ask for help from time to time.

What a perfect "experience" to share with your daughter - a little humility (O.K. a lot of humility) but more importantly that you don't give up and can turn this into a great way to REALLY get into the hobby. The satisfaction and pride to be garnished from correcting this will be a wonderful bonding for you two. Best of luck and keep updating your progress.

 

I`m just an old timer but i would not even consider a mustang 2 front end.It is just a lot of fab work and will devalue the car.Try to find a complete as possible 34 front end,with hyd. brakes if possible.or pick up parts to build one.35 to 48 will work but try for spring over axle(looks good and fits right)$200 to $600.then find an old ford rear end 32 to 48 complete with spring if possible.again 33 or 34 would be best,with hyd brakes if possible.$200 to $400. now find a floor shift******* ,that will bolt up to the early ford rear.32 to 39 .$200 to $400.now a 56 ford 1/2 ton steering box complete(stock 33-34 or earlier 1/2 ton box will work)$100 to $300.now a chevy small block and a adapter to old ford(adapter should run $75 to $150)a running chevy small block ($300 to $800).Hit the swap meets,put want adds on craigs list! The ford barn guys are great hoarders and they will help you out too.How about posting a picture of the grille of the car and the interior.i would say you could make a sweet little car for your girl.never know ,you might even find a running flatty for it on your travels.

 

Whoever did that should have their arms cut off!

 

The suspension mods look much more recent that the body & paint work. There is a 50/50 chance that the body is FAR better than the suspension. 8K for a good '34 Fordor body, frame, fenders, hood, garnish moldings, dash, grille, etc..... is not too deep for that package. You were planning on rewiring it anyway.

A LOT of guys here had never built an early Ford before joining the HAMB. Nothing this car needs is beyond your abilities if you're willing to do some research & learn.

Add me to the list of people saying "knock the suspension out of it & pull the engine & trans". Chassis Engineering, Posies, Pete & Jakes - even Speedway - can all supply good parts to get it back on the road. I'd start with Chassis Engineering. Riley Automotive is an Alliance Dealer for them.

Yes, you wanted a "driver" & no, you didn't get one. A decent '34 "driver" would have cost you 15K. You're in a good, desireable, project at a fair price though. Whatever you do, don't take a loss on it & don't trade it for some 4 door '50's car. Most any 4 door '50's car is going to have outdated suspension & brakes anyway. If you come out of this deal with anything less than the '34 that you wanted, the jackass that sold you the car has won.

Take the Labor Day weekend & rip out all the*****. Hell, I'll even donate a pair of split '48 front wishbones if you cover the shipping. That saves you a few hundred $$$ on a pair of hairpins right there.

JH