Are the original wheels tube type or tubeless? Got my tires yesterday and have one wheel sanded and painted.
I have a few links that I used for referance... http://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum/showthread.php?t=424231&highlight=rack+pinion http://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum/showthread.php?t=379817 http://www.forwardlook.net/forums/forums/thread-view.asp?tid=30298
Another HOT day here... A few more pictures of the front with Cavalear rack mounted along with the modified tie rods and arms. All brake lines have been installed along with the fuel line. New tires on the original rims. Need to clean up the front swaybar and get it mounted.
I have been checking out others that are chopped like this one... http://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum/showthread.php?t=418555&highlight=dodge+wayfarer
Here's the rotors and calipers on Scarebird's disc brake conversion...Need 2 copper washers for the brake line to caliper seal. Location of the 2 lines from the prop. valve that will go to the M/C, straight up the new location of the firewall...
A friend of mine had one of these when we were in high school in the fifties. It was a real clean mild custom. Although I have always been and always will be a shoebox Ford guy, I always thought that these were some of the best looking '50's cars ever. Good luck with your project.
OK...Got a few little things done today. Had to cut another half coil out of the springs. They are NOS Suburban springs and were 4" longer than mine and have heaver wire. It was squeeking real bad on top where the cut was made so I pulled them back out and ground the seating surface flat with an angle grinder. ...turned the springs over with the cut side down and used the nos spring silencer for the top. the nos lower spring silencer is thicker and has the staggered notch where the spring end sets in a pocket on the lower a frame. Sets a little high right now without the body. If it will drop 2" with all the weight back on It will be OK. I jumped up and down on the front and it han no squeeks at all!!!. Got the right pinion angle on the rear and measured for the driveshaft. 46-3/8" to 46-1/2" will do it.
Here is a drawing of how I made a tow bar from 3 bolts, chain, and chain link fence pipe. Worked just fine as long as you drive slow.
Here's is my design for the front upper shock mounts. The original front shocks mounted to both upper and lower a frames! What was Mopar thinking about when they designed this? I cut and ground out 4 of these today. Got too dark for pictures. I will weld them on tomorrow... I have been looking at radiators and believe I'll order one for a 66 Mustang with a big block. I also found a driveshaft shop that will cut and ballance for $80.
Original front shocks will not work... Not enough travel. Ordered a pair of Monroe 32207 shocks and have 6.625" of travel ... The a frames....snubber to snubber has 6-1/4" of travel. I already had the short tabs I made (drawing above) so I extended them with some 2"X1/4" steel 6-7/8" measured center of upper shock eye to the top of the frame. (Drawing below) I have attached the inner finders and radiator bulkhead to see if they will fit around the 400...NOT! First off the fuel pump had to go so I will go electric. Moved the power steering pump in the fuel pump location down low by cutting and refabing the mounting plates. Had to trim 2" from the inner finders and will weld back together. As long as I can change plugs, add fluids and tighten belts. Dark out now but here are the pictures...
Good to see you got the engine in there, sure looks like a tight fit. But with your fabrication skills you'll make it work. I'll need to make new inner fenders as well, but will have to wait until I have everything lined up properly and know where my headers will exit. I won't have enough clearance below the frame so I'll need to go with some type of fenderwell header. Good luck and post some more pics as you progress.
Thank you Farmer...Lot's of little things right now. I did order a new aluminum 3 row radiator for a 66 Mustang for the 429 engine and may be able to use the original fan instead of the electric. The rad. will fit inside my radiator frame and if I mount it to the front of the frame I can use the original fan. Only thing...The radiator cap will be under the sheetmetal "nose" section. My fix is to buy an inline radiator fill that attaches to the upper radiator hose. (picture below) Or...remove the filler neck and add in an aluminum 90 deg. mandrel welded into the side of the upper tank and add the filler neck. (drawing below)
Thank you MOONDOG13 I can actually see the light!!! It's hard for me to get back under the body (which is setting on cinder blocks) and finish up the grinding and sanding ready for paint. Once that part is finished up I can re-join the body to the frame with new body mounts.
Why not use an electric fan.(push or pull type) It will probably save you space and you'll certainly gain a few hp. Just a thought.
Yes, I have a new electric fan that I bought last year for the car. If the regular fan idea does not work out then I will go electric. I need to put an AC condenser up there also... Don't want it too close to the grill. I got back under the car to sand a little more on the underside. A little more with a wire brush and it will be ready for some Eastwood's rust encapsulator. Got the passenger side inner fender welded up and fits great. I started on the left but it got dark before I could get anything done! LOL!! The sheetmetal piece that goes below the radiator to the bumper rock shield is toast....not enough metal left. I will have to fabricate another from 18GA.
Here is a drawing of where I cut the inner fenders for engine clearance. This could be done with any v8 engine swap. 2" on the left and 2-1/2" on the right. Engine sets right of centerline. I got both welded up today. I used a wire brush on my drill to remove the rust from 1 of the inner fenders and will paint tomorrow if it doesn't rain...
Well...I have a problem identifying the hi pressure power steering line fitting going into the pump. The Ford steering pump is from a 79 E-350. It is an o ring type fitting. Anyone know what size it is? (PICTURE BELOW) Looks like 5/8" across the threads. The GM rack uses an 18mmx1.5 o ring on the hi side and a 16mmx1.5 o ring for the return. I want to make up the hi pres. line using Aeroquip HP an-6 fittings and hose. Due to the huricane, it has been pouring rain here...Hope the ground under the blocks holding up the body doesn't shift!!
the cop car rims were 7" wide and would use dog dish caps What you have are the 8" super coupe wheels which don't have the tang on them for the dog dishes, and used a bolt in centre cap
Hi Steze, I'm putting together a 50 2dr. sedan that is chopped 4" front & back and channeled 6" back and 5" front. I modified the frame to accept a 6 cylinder nissan diesel and 4 speed w/ od. trans, also put the truck rear end in it with dual wheels, looks crazy and I plan on widening the back fenders to cover the wheels. Had to fabricate a new floor from back to front. Hope to have it on the road in the spring. Good luck with your project, looks great.
UPDATE!!! The power steering pump from the e-350 is a metric Saginaw. The E-350 is an 81 and not a 79. The original hi pres. line bolted right into the Cavalear R&P's larger fitting. Anyone know which is the hi pres, fitting on an 86 Cavalier rack...large or small???? Now...If I can just remember where I put the Ford lo side?!? After searching the net, I found out that I can adjust the pressure of the pump if needed. Here's the link http://www.earlycj5.com/forums/showthread.php?p=731634 The 66 Mustang 3 row radiator came in Tues. and is going to work out great. My front shocks came in today and I will try and get them mounted tomorrow if the rain will stop! We got a good dose of Hermine the past 4 days.
OK...That was a wast of time. After trying to re-bend the PS line I broke it...#$%@#$ So...I ordered AN-6 high pressure power steering fittings and hose rated at 2500 psi. max. About $124. (2) 45 deg. ends (1) 90 deg. end (2) 16mmx1.5 o ring fittings (1) 18mmx1.5 o ring fitting (4) ft. AN-6 teflon lined steel braded hose (1) cheap -6 hose clamp with the anodized cover for the return line at the pump.
Got the shock mounts welded in place today. Started to install the Mustang radiator but found out that the upper and lower rad. tanks were welded on wrong...It is twisted!!! I have a replacement on the way. Quality control is a thing of the past...
While waiting on the radiator, (1st. PICTURE) Homemade tubing bender bends 2 at once. I made up the fuel line with electric pump along with the transmission lines with aluminum line seperators attached to the oil pan bolt. Radiator came in today and it is straight...Made up a fuel pump block-off plate.
Today I mounted the radiator and had to order 2 1/8" NPT street ells so the trans. lines will clear the crank pully. No way I can make that tight of a bend with the bender. I will use the electric fan in front of the radiator as a pusher. Still need to order a 66 Mustang AC condenser. Because of where I put the prop. valve and fuel pump I put a couple of sheet metal heat shields around them...The left exhaust manifold is only 3" from the frame rail.
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