There's still a lot of work to be done, Dan. Remember, I have to rewire it after I get all the other stuff done. Just off the top of my head, I have to work out clutch, fuel, driveshaft, rear axle install, shocks, etc.
Rockable, Where did you get your motormounts? The spool style your using look to be a bit easier to fab up than the stock style that I am dealing with...Thanks for all the information..
I got them at Napa. BK 6021556 & BK 6021516. You have to have a spacer for one of the bolts on the Driver's side unit. An oversize nut works perfectly (7/16?).
Another primal scream..........followed by animated cursing emanated from my address. I discovered last night, as I did some additional research, that I am going to have to do my mounts over AGAIN! Everyone should read this article before doing any driveline installation. http://jniolon.clubfte.com/drivelinephasing/drivelinephasing.html Because my ch***is has a "tunnel" through the X member, I have angled my engine. I discovered that is a no-no. I'm still not sure how I'm going to deal with this but according to another article I read (http://www.hurst-drivelines.com/files/Universal_Joint_Alignment_Proc_111606.pdf ) the transmission center line and the rear axle pinion should be within a half degree in the other plane (overhead view). I'm ready to scream again.
When you say you've "angled" the engine, you mean when looking from overhead (not parallel to the frame) or just simply angled it down in the horizontal plane?
From looking overhead, it is not parallel to the frame. I had no clue it had to be. It's going to be close to the edge of the tunnel, when I redo it AGAIN. And, if the rear axle has much offset to the p***enger side, it may not work. I'm going out to the shop and get on my creeper and study it a while. UPDATE As I always say, I'd rather be lucky than good. It turns out I have 1 1/2" of offset at the front of the engine and 1" at the tailshaft of the transmission. The overall length is nearly 60". The chord length difference is 1/2". If my calculations are correct, that is about 1/2 degree. I think I got away with one.
Aha! So if I understand correctly, you angled the engine in the horizontal plane to compensate for the offset of the rear. I presume you did this so the driveshaft would clear the X member? If so, unfortunately you'll have to do the engine mounts again and find a solution to clear the cross member somehow. Even if the rear is offset (like my 9") this is ok, as long as the engine is parallel to the frame and the rear square in place. Wish I lived closer, I'd be there to help you now.
Rockable, next cruise night, take a look at the 60's-70's muscle mopars. They probably won't want you crawling around with a tape measure, so here's what to look for: check the gap between the fan and radiator, and the radiator mounts. Most were not only offset to the p***enger side, but angled a bit. The fan will be closer to the radiator on the driver's side, unless the radiator is also angled. You should be fine.
I'd take lucky over good any day. That's probably because the only time I get things right is because I'm lucky....good is never part of my equation. Glad to hear you don't have to start over.
I'd take lucky over good any day. That's probably because the only time I get things right is because I'm lucky....good is never part of my equation. Glad to hear you don't have to start over.
Finished up making my throttle pedal and cable ***embly this weekend AND, finally got the correct rear axle. It's an '88 Dakota rear axle with 3.55 gear. I got the original mounts cut off yesterday and the new ones welded on in the correct orientation. Today, I cleaned it up and painted it. Next weekend, I'll install it and this thing will at least roll again. Many items left on the "to do" list, however.
What's the width of the rear end? Wonder if that would work for my truck. I'll be around this week...let me know if you need a hand lifting that into the car.
George, that would most likely be a B body. That's the Charger, Coronet, Roadrunner, Satellite, sized cars. They are a tough find these days though, and expensive when you do. I used a '66 - '67 B body rear in mine, It's about an 1 1/2" narrower than the later B rear end. If you are going small block, you might try the later F body cars and go with a 8 1/4" instead. And just an opinion here, as far as "bolt in", yeah, they bolt in, but you still have to move the pads to set the pinion angle correctly. I wouldn't worry too much about bolt in stuff, just the right width.
TRUE WORDS and he does live by it Rock ... glad to see you making progress. Some cars just fight you harder than others. Hang tough and and I know you will be victorious. Randy
Dan, the axle is about 63" from mounting face to mounting face. Maybe it's 62 1/2". They are hard to find. As Randy, Deuce Roadster, told me, you'd be cheaper off buying an Explorer rear axle. They're cheap, easy to find and have disc brakes. My guy took forever finding my axle because they only made the five lug version from 87 to 90.
Ok, I've hit another snag. I got the AX 15 transmission and the driveshaft from a 98 Dakota. That way, I have the correct slip yoke for the transmission. I got the rear axle from the 88 Dakota, including the yoke. Here's the problem. The 88 rear end yoke uses a different size u-joint than the 98. So, how do I connect these separate pieces of the puzzle together? I'm betting this is not going to be simple.
I went to NAPA and they looked up both u-joints, got the numbers and then had a way to "cross" them and come up with a u-joint that was half one and half the other. All I saw is that it was in the back of the book, hope that helps.
E-body 8 3/4 rears will work also. I have a housing from a 70 grand coupe I was planning on using in my 40 but like everyone said they are expensive and I'm building this on a tight budget. I'm using an 8 1/4 out of a 79 chrysler laBaron right along with the motor and trans from said car. later shawn
That should work Shawn. Isn't it time you also start a build thread? Would be good. btw, looking good Rock, despite the troubles you've been encountering.(and primal screams)
Eric, my problem is I don't work on my car often enought to start one. I actually haven't worked on my car since last november when I installed the gennie shifter I got from Gambino customs. I've just been mainly collecting parts so I have things I need to mock things up. I do have some build pics on the mopar builders social group. I'm planning on getting back out to the garage this winter to get back at it. later shawn
Thanks, Outcast13. If all goes well, I should have the correct "adapter" u-joint tomorrow. I spent most of the day either at, or running back and forth to, NAPA. Both the salesman and I got an education in u-joints.
And the NAPA part number for the correct "adapter" u-joint is.......PUJ 347 or Precision U-Joints part no. 347. Also, this weekend I welded up the unnecesary holes in my floorboard and made a new access panel for my new master cylinder location. I also used a rounded mallet and flattened the area where the old accelerator pedal hinge pins were. Also, I had to reverse the bulge over the transmission to make it clear. These were the only necessary mods. Everything else fits without cutting the floor. Now, if you were to channel it, that would be a different story. It's difficult to take shots of this sheet metal that show what I actually did.
Finished up the floor. Installed the rear axle and rebuilt the drum brakes this weekend. Also, plumbed up the brake lines. I've removed the engine and ****** AGAIN (I've lost count) and will weld up all the unnecessary holes in the firewall this week. Here's my next few steps. * Get the flywheel lightened and balanced to my 360. * Get my pedal ***embly installed and figure out my hydraulic clutch setup. * Fix the floor in the trunk,install new gas tank install new fuel pump nad run new lines. (Not a small project.) * Fix other rust spots in the floorboard. * Shorten one of the upper control arms so that I can get negative camber. * Install all the various necessary pieces on the engine. after REINSTALLING the engine AGAIN. * Install new instrument cluster and wire the entire car. * On and On. The list never ends, it seems.
Dude, you should be able to do a engine swap with your eye's closed pretty soon,lol. Sounds like your getting a handle on things. later shawn
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