Bought a really bad project- so now what?

Another place that can set you up with everything you need - front to back (at fair prices) is Chassis Engineering.

http://www.chassisengineeringinc.com

They have a complete front-end kit - with a forged axle (which is what I'd use) -- not much more than Speedway and I'd rather spend my money with CE than Speedway (just my preference).

Also, since your X-Member has been hacked up, you might want to install their complete X-Member and transmission mount kit. They have brake setups that mount with their X-members and take a lot of tough fabrication work out of the process.

They have a variety of rear-end kits - mostly parallel leaf springs . . . work just fine.

Also, they have all the motor mount, steering box mount kits you'll need . . . clutch/brake pedal setups, etc..

As another noted - though I really love flatheads, early Hemi's and other traditional motors, if this is a car you're building for your daughter and want it easy to maintain, have a wide variety of inexpensive parts and have just about anybody work on it, then maybe go the SBC route -- with a Turbo 350 and call it a day. It will most likely cost you less than a fully traditional setup and if you're really not into early engines and your daughter might be driving the car all over -- then sometimes having a very common and easy to work on drive-train is a good thing.

Anyway, hope this helps. Ping me if you need any other information on 34 related stuff . . . more than willing to help out with opinions, information, etc..

Dale

 

I wish you were closer I would say first, lets ride over and drop off this ass whippin, then lets get to work. Restting the motor/trans is not that big of fix, your suspension is totally hacked though, the rear, if its the right width I would ladder bar and coil over and call it done then concentrate on the front. I like the mustang II idea but your starting to swell the budget. You might have some workable parts but getting the geometry correct and some real fabrication to mount it all would be a must. If thats past your skill level I would look to make an Honest trade for somthing drivable.

 

Hotrod40Coupe, thanks for the intel. LOTS of stuff on the market, wasn't sure what really works. Sounds like a rust conversion coating, have to give Rust Encapsulator a try.

 

Dale and Jeff, much obliged for the parts list. There are too many options and combinations out there, my head is spinning. Mikeco kindly agreed to come out and go over the frame with me so I can figure out the problems and make specific plans. The Aerostar engine and tranny were NOT rebuilt so I'll look at either rebuilding them or using them as cores for a trade. SBC and 350 automatic sounds good. I'm new to Fredericksburg, don't know early parts, and still learning about car scrounging around here. I'd like to get to Hershey, only 3 or so hours north of me for the October swapmeet...but want to make sure I don't have to make any more lemonade with lemons I buy!

 

http://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum/showthread.php?t=510423

Here ya go!

 

I just had a similiar deal on my 32 chassis I bought from looking at some small pic's on the Internet. After getting a game plan, selling off some old stuff and doing some horse trading I actually am in good shape now and am happy I bought the damn thing.

Your not totally upside down on this deal. You can make it work. Tackle what you can yourself and trade out or barter the stuff you can't.

The body alone, even with some rust is still worth that kind of money.

 

http://minneapolis.craigslist.org/hnp/cto/1908472727.html
http://inlandempire.craigslist.org/cto/1922841385.html
http://detroit.craigslist.org/wyn/pts/1878749436.html
http://losangeles.craigslist.org/sfv/pts/1941819390.html
http://orangecounty.craigslist.org/pts/1924603979.html
http://losangeles.craigslist.org/sfv/pts/1932812181.html

 

You already have the Aerostar rear end, I would imagine that Mikeco would be able to give it a good shake and know if it is junk or not. A simple four link would not be tremendously difficult to accomplish and that cast in mount can be sawzalled off. As to the front end, vintage Ford stuff is not hard to find. If you do decide to go with modern seats with intergral belts, make sure you have them mounted well, other wise you just end up strapped to a seat no longer attached to the car. If you decide to go with a stock straight axle and can't find parts, PM me. The shop I work at is also a vintage salvage.

 

Ok guys I went down & looked at Doug's car today. The frame is very nice considering what was done to it. The body is outstanding! Door gaps are nice & there doesn't appear to be any rot in the car. Floors are solid & the windshield even cranks out. Paint is presentable.

The good news is the grill is an original that was rechromed & in very good shape. It has 1 small bubble but you know what an original runs. Headlights are excellent as well. Interior is very presentable also just needs a good cleaning but I would replace the wiring.

It could use a new dash as it was hacked up to put the cluster in. The worst part of the car is the firewall which was cut to put the motor in. It's really hard to tell if the guy that built it did so on purpose to get rid of it or he just didn't have a clue.

Could be a little of both. If he was planning on dumping it I can't see spending the $ to put Vintage Air in it. Overall the car is damn solid & would make a great car.

I gave him my advice which is about the same as most of you have already said. I don't know what his plans are he may go ahead & trade it for something else. If he does,someone will get a decent car that with a little work could be a nice car.

 

Mikeco that was great of you to do that.

 

Thanks it was my pleasure! Met a nice guy,looked at an old car & the weather was perfect! Doesn't get any better!

 

This is the kind of stuff that makes the HAMB such a great place!

Thanks, mikeco, for stepping up and lending a hand!

 

Glad you're getting it back to where it needs to be!

 

Very Cool of you to go check on him Mikeco.... I used to live in the Fredericksburg area for over twenty years. There are alot of car guys in that area. I also have a good buddy out in Orange Va, Named Billy Strickland. He has been into cars for nearly 50years and always has at least 30 cars in his collection. He still has the model A he took his drivers test in. Good guy to hook up with. PM me if you would like contact info. BigJim

 

I know this goes against the traditional grain, but part of me thinks that if the V6 i running and in ok shape right now, I would just put it back in. AFTER making sure it was mounted and lined up properly.

That ways if you decide to go with another motor down the road, at least you can enjoy it as is for a while.

Get the stuff that is truly messed up fixed, and roll. After the suspension and poor wiring are repaired, the rest can be done on an as needed basis.

 

You can probably sue the person that sold it to you. there are a lot of things wrong with this and the person that sold it to you bent you over.

 

I'll pm my phone number to you. My families salvage yard is in your area and we have several original suspension set-ups there as well as donors of you did still want to mustang2 it. I can come out and walk you through what you need.
We have plenty of running complete drivetrains in cars that are more than reasonable.

 

MikeCo, thanks for coming down and sharing some advice.

RC, I appreciate the offer, I'll give you a call this week.

Folks, y'all are great- and I 'preciate you helping a noob along. Now, time to pull out the welders and practice, practice, practice...

 

be sure to keep us posted ,theres alot of concerned peoples watching this,GOOD LUCK!

 

I would usually not ask this of anyone for fear that someone might want to blast me for something minor. But, I believe you should post as much information that you can back-up about this "builder". I know you had to describe him somehow, but "builder" would not be the word.

Tell everybody who this guy is so that someone else might not get taken, or hurt. This is surely not the first time that this person took advantage of someone.

Signed,
A Real BUILDER

 

The builder's name was mentioned in an earlier post & unless your in Va. I doubt that anyone on here would run into the guy. Word will get around here. As I stated in my post its hard to tell if the guy built this on purpose or if he really didn't know what the hell he was doing.

 

No problem I had a good day! Sounds like ya might be keeping it. If thats the case I know you can get it fixed. Don't forget Carlisle & Hershey are right around the corner.

If ya need anything don't hesitate to get in touch!

 

Aggie,

I commend you on staying the course with this project, old cars can be daunting to say the least. When you decide what your course of action will be let us know.


Jim

 

Howdy, folks. I've been searching for parts. Got a Fatman MII crossmember in my hands, waiting for my C.E. rear leafspring and transmission x-member and boxing plates to show up so I can start welding up. Sure are lots of 8" and 8.8" and 9" rear axles to choose from- some even have the right width....Sounds like heading to Carlisle in a couple weeks will be a good place to start looking. JC Grimes and MikeCo gave me some great advice, now I just have to get to work.. Need to get into rolling shape before winter hits, get this puppy out of my driveway and into my garage!

Y'all enjoy the weekend. I think I'll be pulling off the other running board and front fenders in prep tomorrow- and hauling my welder out and practice some on 14 ga.

 

Why the MII approach?

 

Wanted IFS for my kid on our narrow, twisty country roads. Not traditional, I know...Looking to run a SBC, probably 350/350TH, but I won't be ready for that for months.

 

I wouldnt go with the MII. I repeat, I would NOT go with the MII. I have the MII under my 35 Ford PU, and solid axle under my 34 Ford Sedan. Go with the solid axle, easier to put in and they arent that much different.

As far as my opinion, I agree that its not too butchered to fix. Actually, it looks to be quite an easy fix. Id say all you need is a good welder, remove the non-1934 suspension and add correct replacments. Itll cost you some money, and a crap load of time, but what do you expect for only $8k for that complete of a car. I think you can get the aftermarket front and rear suspension for a decent price and put them in yourself to totally fix that thing up. Id box the front and rear part of the frame rails while Im at it if I were you Bluebear (thats a reference to the Boyd Coddington Show in case you didnt get it).

 

Wow , what a story , good to see the HAMB working and the guys like Mikeco pitchin' in to help , awsome stuff , looks like a lot of good is going to come out of your experience , hope your Daughter is reading the posts and getting her hands dirty , she will be better for it , keep going , we are all watching for the big grins when you are Crusin'

cad

 

I also think you are making a big mistake,ATTEMPTING to install a mustang 11 front susp.The original front I beam is a simple first build bolt in.Search the safety record of the mustang 11 front conversions(many done by hot rod shops) also most of the rebuild balljoints etc. are now coming from china and that is scary. Plus the fact that you will drop the value of your car by a couple of grand.Spending more money does not necessarly mean a safer car.

 

Wow, what a disappointment. That frame made it 75 years, survived the wrath of some loser who thought he could 'build' a car - but built a deathtrap, only to succumb to a MII.

Some guys are just permanently brainwashed about IFS. Too bad.