I have a 63 galaxie with a freshly rebuilt 390 and Autolite 4100 with a cruise-o-matic. For some reason the engine stalls out and dies when I shift into drive when I first start it up. BUT not after letting it warm for about 10 minutes. When it's good and warmed up it shifts just fine. Am I just being impatient, or is there a good reason that it has to warm up for so long before I can out it into gear? I've checked for vacuum leaks and made sure the timing is right. Is there something else that I'm not thinking of? I've read a lot of forums saying that the idle is maybe to low, but why would it work fine after about 10 minutes of warming up?
In the back of my mind I was thinking that may something to do with it. I did have to dial it down yesterday to keep it running without having to floor it for 5 minutes when I start it up. Seems as if the ****erfly valve was opening way to quickly. Forgive me because I'm very much new to this and basically researching and teaching myself, but can you explain how the choke would effect it when put into gear? Does it sound like I need to have the choke open even slower?
No power brakes, steering or anything! As basic as they come. I did have an electric choke put on when the carb and engine was rebuilt.
With the hood open look at the carb (with engine cold) when you hit the trottle and choke closes does it have a fast idle excentric and is it adjustable.
When the motor is cold it doesn't want to run under any kind of load. The choke, raises the idle and richens the mixture to help it warm up to normal operating temperature. It the choke isn't working correctly then the motor dies when you drop it in gear (adding a load). Once it is warmed up then all is good.
What is your normal startup method with the car? With a carburetor most of us will floor the throttle a couple of times before hitting the key. That gives a shot of gas in the intake and sets the choke. The car should idle faster than normal for a bit. The thing with electric chokes and one of the reasons for them is that they usually open quite a bit quicker than the regular style. This is to reduce emissions. And some rigs are just cold blooded and are a bit balky until they are warmed up.
My daughter found a similar thing on her dodge pickup - she rang me at work in a panic - DAD HELP!!! I listened to the engine over her cell phone - then suggested she take the handbrake off - Problem gone - embarr***ed daughter and a smart **** DAD Sorry to hijack this thread with that one - couldn't resist
Not sure if the '63 had it, but my '64 with the 352 had an anti-stall dashpot on the carb. Mine had the same symptoms, I replaced the part and it was fine from there. Bob
Yeah I know mine is original and looks pretty beat up. Can you recommend a good place to get one? I read in several places that people were ordering them and they really didn't actually work. They were more for looks.
I know this response is a few months late, but I was looking into this problem again today. Please forgive the stupid questions I'm about to ask. I'm trying to think of the best way to ask this. When this car was brand new in the 60's, did it have to warm up for 10 minutes before you could put it into drive? Or is this problem the type of thing that develops because it's a nearly 50 year old engine and carb (which was rebuilt in 2010)? Would dialing the choke back a bit to make it open slower help it warm up faster you think? Is this recommended or would that not be good? Don't want to do anything that will be bad for the engine. Sorry about all of the questions, but old cars are very new to me and I'm trying to get a better understanding of how all this works so I won't have to constantly rely on shops.
cars didn't need 10 minutes to warm up but they do need a couple-even more once you add 50 years and a half pound of varnish/carbon buildup. there could be a mild vacuum leak that seals up once some heat joins the party, worth checking while cold, but i think you might be seeing other issues. you probably have a choke that's not timed right, plus an idle/high idle setting that isn't correct either. i always thought the anti stall dashpot was to richen the mix during manual shifts, but there are many more knowledgeable people here than me...
Have you rebuilt the carb yet and tried resetting the choke ? Also you have to make sure the fast idle is working too . That needs to also be adjusted to get the carb set correctly . To set the carb do it the first thing in the morning after sitting all night . Retro Jim
.....If its a holly carb....it might be the float level.choke or accellator pump.......I would rebuild the carb.....
Yes, the carb and engine are freshly rebuilt (by a shop). I had an electric choke put on. I didn't have this problem until after the the rebuild. The fast idle seems to be ok. When I start the car it runs at higher rpm's for a few moments. Then it slowly calms down as it warms. But if I don't let it get good and warm for about 10 or so minutes, it sputters and stalls when I shift it into drive or reverse. If it gets good and warm it shifts into gear like a dream. Now it is 20 degrees outside, but I have the same problem even when it's 70 degrees out. I have a slight hesitation when I give it gas from a dead stop too. A lot of people said the acc pump, but it's a brand new one. When you say "set the carb", what does that entail exactly?
Did you do the timing with the distributor vacuum off? My shop teacher would always YELL that into our heads. Otherwise the timing looks fine but when it gets a load it drops too low. Fiddle with the fast idle a bit. Keep it up longer. Some say if the ****** filter isn't installed correctly the car will do this exact thing when it first shifts into gear.
winner winner winner! my car dies if i dont have it nice and warm! this guy has nothing to worry about!
I do not run a choke on my 350 Chevy in my 49 P/U of course I live in California so we are at least some what warm but winter gets cold and foggy. I will pump the accelerator a couple of times then once the engine fires I hold about 2500 RPM for about 30-45 seconds to bring the cylinder temps up, it will then idle on it's own even with a 280/280 cam. I then let it warm up until the temp gauge starts to lift and it works fine. But there are a lot of variables to check..timing...proper carb settings..and vacuum leaks, vacuum leaks are one of the biggest culprits to a vehicle dieing when dropped in gear. Back up start at square one and work your way thru it checking everything and I'll bet you can resolve your problem.
Sounds like the choke mechanism is working or you wouldnt get a faster idle on start up. Either the choke plate is not closing enough or the pull down dashpot is opening the choke too far after the engine starts. On a cold engine remove the air cleaner and open and close the throttle one time. Upon release of the throttle the choke plate should shut completely. If it doesnt close loosen the three screws on the electric choke cover and turn the choke cover housing until it does (and maybe just a little more because of the extreamly cold location you are in). You will know you have gone too far if the engine load up (runs rich and black smoke) as it warms up. The other basic adjustment is the unloader (if equiped). If the unloader (vacuum dashpot on the back of the carb) is out of spec you will need to bend the linkage. You may need to bend the linkage (slightly) so it doesnt pull the choke plate so far open. There is a U shape in the linkage and that is where it is to be bent. Try these adjustments a little at a time until you hit the sweet spot. There are specs for all these adjustments that come in the carb overhaul kit.
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