Thanks for the coments The batteri box is rusty so i made a new one Her's the new one made in AISI 304 or 1.4301 (Stainless Steel) /Stefan
Nice work Stefan. Everytime I see this thread near the top I get excited to see your progress! That battery box is great!
I will take it down from the storeage and change the lower pipe in the back. and put in hinges in the middle and cut the back in 2 pcs. /Stefan
Post some pics of the seat,when you've done with it.I've planned to do something like that too with the front seat..
Thanks for the coments I have begin to my front seat i have take down from the storage and put the back together with bottom The lower pipe in the back have some serius rust damage and the springs are bad to on the back so i removed the springs and change the pipe to an 30x30x1.5 mm square pipe next think on the seat is to put in 2 pipes or L-irons to the middle. And put in hinges i the middel of bottom peice. /Stefan
Thanks for the coment In best case can i go to old style weekend. I have made some more on my seat I have rolled a square tube so it get same radius as the outer pipes and i weld in 2 peices of the pipe. I have weld some holes in the bottom part of the seat. The seat is from a forest wreck. Next thing on the seat is to put in some hinges in the middle. /Stefan
Looking good And wow im glad you can use the front-seat...I was going to use it in my shoebox but i found a better one the seat came from a 1951 fourdor taxi, the old man who own the yunkyard told me it came to the place in the late 50s and was one of the first cars on his yunkyard. when i pulled the seat out i found a coca-cola bottle made 1958 under the seat,(i saved the bottle) hope you dont mind a picture of the car the seat came from..... now the seat has a better home
Thanks for the coments I haven't seen the pic of the wreck before but i have heared the storry of the bottle I are thinking about the middle hinges points and even of the outer ones. please can some one post pics of a shoebox seat from a 2 door car with the seat feld and not feld and on the hinge points in the middle /Stefan
You will want the longer radius hinge arc for the out side so it fold forward and inward. Both sections wont be able to be folded at the same time, but the ingress and egress with be better. My 46 Chevy works this way originally, I don't know if it will help for your ford seat. The outside hinge points are approximately 6 inches forward of the bottom of the seat back. The inside hinge points are higher by approximately 1 inch and are set just ahead of the seat bottom, roughly 2 inches. I will take it apart if you need for a visual.
I have work with my front seat i have made middle hinges for the back and cut the back in 2 piecses I have to made some adjustments on the hinges on the backs. The outer hings points must be change so they work with corct angle. I have think to maybe use small ball joints in the outer ends like this in size M10 /Stefan
I worked little more on my front seat For posibilty fell the seat more. I rotated the lower hindge point so the angel is more right i adjusted the center hinges on the backs I have put screws for adjusting the seat angel After the adjustments it was posilble to fell the seat. This pic show the seat in upright position /Stefan
Stefan , you have a lot of really good talent and fabricating skills . I really admire you as I watch you build the car ! You just make everything by yourself . Here in the states if we need a part we just try to find a good used one or just buy the part from a catalog company that makes them . We are very lucky here to be able to do that . But I give you very much credit for making all your parts . You are a great inspiration to this great hobby and shows that if you want the car a certain , just make it work with what you have on hand . That is the way the old hot rodders use to make their hotrods . They took parts from other cars and made them work . They also built everything by hand just like you are doing ! I can't wait to see the final finished car ! I also have a 49 & 50 Ford but can't do what you are doing to mine . I don't have the great skills that you have ! I have watched many things you made and used to make things fit and you gave me some good ideas on some things I will do to mine . I will keep watching this build and just wondering what great idea you will come up with next ! Keep up the great work ! Retro Jim
Exactly Stefan! That was exactly what I was talking about on the seat. PERFECT!!!! I wouldn't expect less.
Thanks for the coments and the enjoy of my thred And take a look for the next thing i will with my shoebox I think to check the seat to the car and maybe i lower the fondations of the seat i must rust repair the bottom bracket of the seat /Stefan
Thanks for the coment I lift in the front seat in the car The seat is from a 51 and my shoebox is a 50 the bolt pattern was 100mm [4"] to wide on the seat and i must repair the bottom brackets. I think maybe to widthen the bracket 2" on eache side so they fit the original holes and lower the seat 3/4" when i change the bottom brackets /Stefan
I have lower and made the bottom brackets wider I cut out the footbrackets under the seat so the seat fit Test of the seat in the car Should i take more on the hight of the seat or is it engout with 20mm [3/4"]? That is posible to take some more on the vertical brackets up to the frame /Stefan
I think that with a chopped top you should get the seat as low as possible, I wish that I could lower the seat on my 52 but there is no way to do it and keep the power seat. I am only 5' 7" and still look at the header. BB
Thanks for the coment I cut out 20mm [3/4"] of the brackets up to seat So now it's 40mm [1 9/16"] lower than it was from the beginin /Stefan
Looks great. Now how is the shifter in relation to the seat? Steering column and driving position? Great work Stefan! Rear seat too might need to be lowered to match?
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