Help me finger out exactly what I have. Late model front cover has a dipstick tube. Earlier pan has a dipstick. Can't find any #s on the block that are visible. Where are they? Was told it's a 302 but that t's all I know.
Look on the right side of the block at the oil pan rail. Casting #s and date code will be there >>>>.
Got that back wards - Early motors had the dip stick in the timing cover, later ones in the oil pan. Casting number and date code are on the RIGHT side of the block, just above the starter mounting.
Casting numbers say a lot, but sometimes parts find their way to new homes. Looks like a regular old 289 or 302 with some bolt ons. The dipstick in the front cover is standard issue for a car or truck with a front sump pan, like almost all of 'em from '62 to about '79. The pan you have is a rear sump, for a Bronco or 4WD truck, maybe a van, so it has a dip stick in the pan to get into the sump. Should have a part number stamped in it to help you really identify it. Google is you friend on that one. Ford blocks didn't have a provision for a dipstick through the side of the rear sump pans until sometime in the '80's. Hope this helps.
If your're really wanting to know,pop the intake and look at the lifter valley.It will say 289 or 302.The heads will also tell you if you pull the valve covers.Big spark plugs and a three bolt balancer will determine an early '70s on back deal.
Once you get the casting numbers here's a link to decoding them if ya need it. http://www.cl***icmustang.com/decoding_part_numbers.htm
It's a '68 Torino/Fairlaine 302. Cast 9-23-68. Now I know what I have. Found a website called Mustangtek that has a boatload of conversion charts and info.
Found this repair while cleaning up my sbf over the weekend & the oil dipstick was jb welded to the block.Any ideas on how to remove the sleeve and re-sleeve it. Here is a picture of the repair and you can't see the sleeve because I have the oil dipstick hole plugged.... I was told maybe a helicoil would work for the screw in the oil pan so I am going to give that a shot but I still got to figure the dipstick problem....?
If the timing cover has had that mess done to it and all that RTV it is probably junk,they do corrode internally and crack EZ.Speedway Motors has new ones for $69.99 there are some cheaper on evil bay but I have known guys that bought them and the Chinese quality left something to be desired.A new chrome dipstick and tube is under $10 also.
Actually they work damn good,good performance curve only one wire to run,no external clutter needed, 55-60 KV output and everybody has GM parts to service it if needed,had mine 3 years and still love it,Hey even the cap is Ford Blue!
Cool thanks Jeff, I'm going pull it and see what happens if it doesn't work then it's good to know where to buy them.
Just checked out the speedway timing covers and they are for 289/302's.My block is a 260 and the timing cover appears the same except for the shape on the bottom of where the water pump mounts and they are not the same.Man I tell you if this block wasn't free I would have never even attempted to put it in.Looks like the better route would have been to run a 289 ot 302. Oh well I'm hoping I can salvage it if,I hope I can score one from bay that is in good condition.
Weeeeeeellllll sort of. It MAY be out of a Torino/Fairlane but that C8OE casting number was on millions of 302's regardless of application. Everything from a Falcon to a truck. If it checks out as usable its a good, early, heavier casting. -Bigchief.
True,but if you are doing a swap in a early Ford with a front sump pan the block has to be plugged and the front dipstick in the timing cover has to be used.
Can you not just run that front cover and a 289/302 water pump? Not sure what the issue is. I swap covers and pumps all the time..
That early timing cover is a rare one,when I worked for Checker wholesale I had a customer with a 64 1/2 Mustang that needed it replaced.He ended up changing to a 65 and later cover and a 65-69 water pump.
The Jalopy Journal
