I saw a post on here today about how to do it. I was wondering where else can I get som supplies from besides eastwood? can you point me in the right direction for a dvd or is the only one out there from coast airbrush? I done it in the past using a cobra torch but it's been couple of years and I want to dive back in knuckles first. Thanks in advance for any information.
tinning ****er is available thru radiator shop suppliers, lead is around too in low tin %, wax ring from a toilet, cut some hardwood into paddles, wadding? some like cotton socks and others like steel or br*** wool. I did some way back in the 70's, done a little now and then. looking for some tin ingot, got 4-500 lbs of lead and a furnace to melt it. even made molds for bars, pour lead/zinc for stick weights so players could improve. fun stuff! I am a complete dope with bondo, i use it to replace rotted wood.....
Check eastwood again. They sell a instructional DVD. I've worked with lead now and then for the past 50 years. I like the old ways although I do use bondo mostly for finish.
i found using a propane torch much easier that oxy/acc just remember the fastest way to learn how to do lead is wear sandles he he
contact brad masterson . i know he sells the right lead and i think he is putting together leading kits now ... give him a call tell him i sent ya . shop-562-243-9692
Yeah I get my lead from Brad as well its the Same source Bill Hines buys from its good stuff at least bettern than eastwood and way cheaper. I was going to post that after the guy did an intro? One post this is it? Welcome to the Hamb Bouy but do an intro tell us somethin about yourself before the Hamb police get ya Dave Hitch
Bondo takes no real skill. plus I like playing with fire. O **** I thought I did since I was a member since 08. thanks for all the responces I'll make some calls. Off to the intro section
go to rotometals .com they sell the 30 /70 lead you need they also have the even softer 25/75 lead bars about the cheapest out there i have found just bought 30 lbs of it a while back
Bouy welcome didnt to jump on ya for the intro actually was just trying to head off a bunch of BS The price they list is $7.50 a lb the price of it from Mastersons supplier goes up and down I got it for just less than $4 a lb last time and bought a 100lbs I should be good for a while The acid rotometals has is hard to find thats a good source for that for sure you dont need the eastwood tinning ****er tho it works good you can acid the panel heat it an smear the bar on it to tin it. Gambino will be having a Winfield cl*** that will cover lead I will probably help with what I can at the cl*** as lead is my favorite as I'm not that good at metal shaping. Dave Hitch
Thanks for the info guys. I gonna place a order next week.This maybe a dumb question but why use a 25/75? for making trim belt lines or filling pin holes.
http://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum/showthread.php?t=512801&highlight=winfield+gambino There ya go check the link Dave Hitch
All right, I'll bite. How do you fill a lead seam with out filler? I gotta see a picture of this. Once its spotted to the underlying structure there is no way you can finish the seam with out filler. At least from my way of thinking.
Ok it depends on the type of joint. think about it it your remaking a belt line in lead you will not have option for working from the back. When I use to do my fab work I would do my best to make sure any seams that were in a hard to reach spot I would make a small return on the back side like a catch that would lock into a joining peice of metal and also give it some sort of structure from warping. I allways looked at stuff differently then most. Working from the inside out to the finshed peice. I know it sounds dumb or misleading but think about it on the next filler panel you are going to install.
% of lead, lead is cheaper than tin, tin bonds better to metal and is harder. where and how you are gonna use it you may like one better than the other. rotometals has 10% off coupon this weekend "booo" is the code word (hey I don't make this stuff up)
Lead loading (as we call it here in the UK) Is 20% know how and 80% practice. I show a little lead loading on my youtube footage. Its towards the end. (watch it all you might like it)
bouoy I'm not talking about a belt line, I'm talking about the lead seam where there is a channel between the roof and the sail panel. I'm all for metal finishing panels but there are just some places that its not really feasable to metal finish. Like an A pillar where there are sometimes internal box sections. I'd rather add some lead than cut it apart or drill holes to get to the back side.
I agree, I have been doing this for more than thirty years and I have not found a way of eliminating the lead from all seams etc. Whats wrong with a little lead anyway.
ok I understand. the problem was I did not get to see all the posts at once and I caught something and answered on a whim instead of being able to catch the whole thing. so I know I'm new to posting. I guess I was trying to say is if I can use lead to finsh the body before using bondo I would. Think about how many "body shops" do restore work or custome work and do a chop top and mix up gallons of bondo at a time and use a 2x4 to spread it like doing concreat. I worked for a place like that short time then I did not like what the customer was getting. So my bad for jumping the gun. no harm no foul I hope cause it's nice t ofind a forum with out all the bs with real people who care about the bottom line.
I made a 3ft wide putty spreader to skim roofs, but hey it was 1/8" thick coat. body filler has its place. i wouldn't have tried to skim a roof with lead. Being as your an FNG i have to ask, how long have you been doing body work?
Yeah I'm a FNG cause I did not start posting till last week. I started learning hammer and dolly around 11-12 years old since it was a family owned shop. So I would say I have 15 years invested. I'm not saying bondo work is bad. but what the orginal thing I was saying was I like to get the metal close as possable instead of just pouring the mudd on it. Do you put any honey in your Rage gold?
No need for huge amounts of filler if the work is done right. I only use lead for areas that cant be done any other way. Below is a model A wing repaired with no filler (or lead)
Bouoy, I have used filler honey or what ever the actual name of it is. It is nice for doing skim coats. Fibergl*** resin works about the same if your in a pinch, but it does sand a bit harder after its dry. My appologies for the FNG comment, I lurked on this site for several years before actually posting anything. I'm just a bit wary of anyone who says you can fix everything without any filler.
No worries, I think about it as a hazing just like when you start some thing new you have seprate the bser's from true artists. I only asked cause I have had to use that when I worked for a **** shop in AZ. The owner was cheap and in my eyes should never owned a shop where a plasma cutter was way to much money. I had to bring in my own welding machine cause he did not want to fix his. LOL good times huh
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