I have used this product http://www.alsacorp.com/products/chromefx/chromefx_prodinfo.htm?gclid=CK6s1urq9aQCFdJL5QodLGuCkA Search, U tube for there are very good video's of people using spray chrome
THAT is amazing. Of course it's not "the REAL thing", but before Poo-Pooing it, take it for what it is...a chrome basecoat/clear coat. It may not be for chrome bumpers and such, but it has it's uses...
Looks like the same process as "Cosmichrome" (sp?) in Ohio, they have been around for a number of years,... From what I remember,... (and this could be wrong) It's the same process they are currently using at Mercedes-Benz.
.........I've got better ways to waste my money......used it once ....look good at 10 feet........would work good for model cars and airplane.....
It's not that kind of spray on chrome,.... I have actually looked at this stuff in person, at the Hot Rod & Restoration show at Indy a few years back,... seriously,... you can't tell the difference. As well as the bright work on this Chevy,..... And this entire panel,... I Dunno,....Sort of looks like Chrome to me,....
is there a chrome process that doesn,t require special expensive spray equipment, i tried that guys website can,t find anything
Unless,.... your using leaded gas, lead body work, Nitrocellulose Lacquer, Arc or gas-fusion welding only, cloth wrapped wiring, or anything NOT made (built/manufactures) in the last 50 years,..... yeah,.. it's right. I just cant find air for my tires that was compressed in the 1950 or 60's,... so I became a sell out.
Is the primer special. It looks like he used some Rage bondo for the pits? I want to do a front I-beam axle and some suspension parts. No hydrogen embrittilment. If all you have to do is get the parts straight, that would be neat.
I can think of so many places that would work very well, like they say small interior parts, plastic parts, headlight reflectors etc etc. yeah it's not real chrome but like harms way says how many of the processes we use now days are the same as way back when... shit moves on. i know there are good chromers here in the UK but i've had nothing but trouble and let downs from the ones i've used...
If that holds up under normal driving, i think it would be great. Id like to see a front bumper after its been driven for awhile.
I would love to use this as an alternative to plating, which has become to expensive for the hobbiest on a budget. Although, based on the prices I've seen for the required equipment, I would say I'm out here too. Option #3 anyone?
only problem with these systems is they cost so much to buy all the eqipument if there was something similar that only cost a few hundred dollars I'd be interested but I can't see spending $1,000-$3,000 on these type of systems unless I was doing customers cars all the time other wise it wouldn't be worth the money
I had the shop who did some of the work on this car quote a 41 Ford center grill for me and the cost was $300. I'll wait till I can afford real chrome.
I tried getting ahold of that shop several times on a quote to do the bumpers on a '55 Buick but they never would get back with me
It appears the primer was just urethane, and yeah they mentioned regular bondo. I restored a 1976 Harley FLH Liberty edition which sat outside for 18 years, I had everything except the pot metal parts rechromed, they wouldnt do them. Here in Kansas they arent allowed to run the copper coat, thats used like filler/bondo in the chroming process. The total cost was $1,300, and the chrome job was basically crap. I dunno how cheap you guys get your chrome done, but the $1,300 would have sure covered a decent chunk of the equipment price, and I'd have been able to do more than cycle. I even half wonder why I couldn't shoot it with a regular gun just adjusted where Im basically washing the part. Granted I would have really wanted a well done chrome job over this stuff, but getting a good chrome job is becoming increasingly difficult, unless you send your parts (out of state) in most cases to a reputable shop, that does the complete process, then hope to get them all back.
Yeah me too...although I use real metal plating when saving badly pitted pot metal. Bottom line is rotten pot metal can be repaired; I do it on a daily basis. I have seen spray on chrome and I CAN tell the difference (some more than others granted I have a trained eye for metal finishes. It isn't the slight color variation and/or shine depth that would bother me though, it is the lack of durability compared to the real thing. I think it has it's uses but they are few until some durabilty in real driving conditions is proven.
Josh, you can save pot metal parts with a cleanup, and copper dip cant you? I was told it could be done, but they didn't do it here. I used to run an anodizing line myself. Yeah I'm sure you're right about the durability, rock's or anything hitting it would be just like it hitting paint, I imagine. I'm not happy with my last chrome job I had done, but it would have been awesome to get a real good chroming done.
Be careful out there. I had the control arms done on my OT ride, and wasn't pleased with the results at all. I paid 400 bucks to do the upper and lower control arms, much cheaper than having them chromed, per se, but the stuff scratches off with a fingernail very easily. One tiny pebble spot was enough to start the peeling process. Maybe the guy I went to was just inexperienced in the use of this product, but wouldn't you know how to do something before you opened a business doing just that?
I've done lots of them, along with the trim on the front of the bed, with real plating and they are ALWAYS rotten; still not a problem. $350/pair, lifetime warranty against flaking, peeling, blistering, and better finish than factory. Painting may be cheaper on these, but IMHO real metal is the way to go in this instance. I know I am a little biased on the issue, but I know what I can do. This is a long but worthy thread that also shows some of my work on the Kaiser. http://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum/showthread.php?t=272171&highlight=kaiser
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