Projects 41 plymouth coupe 392 hemi build thread

Great paddling, Eric. I've tried doing this. "Tricky" is the word I would use. It is "tricky" to get it just right. As you said, too much heat and it's all on the floor.

 

You're right Rock. One of the lessons was to see when the lead was too hot. It flows like water and its on the floor. It's a delicate and tricky process for sure. Martin made it look soooooo simple. Hopefully I'll master it a bit more tomorrow.....

 

Started the lead work around the b-pillar today. The concave form just under the roof line required a quarter inch of lead in order to get it flowing the way I wanted to. I sanded the area where the roof line meets the b-pillar and small window.
The plan for next week is to smooth out the rest and finish the area inside the small window. From there I'll start the other side of the car, which will hopefully go a little quicker as I gain more experience.

 

Thanks 210sedan, good to see another person has been converted to the Mopar desease! These are fine cars and just great to work on. Parts may sometimes not be readily available but just see it as a challenge.

 

Yes a challenge it is, but sometimes you do get lucky and just think you will have something different. Looking good eric ,can't wait to see more.

 

Thanks Shawn! Challenges and problems are there to be solved. If it was easy, everyone would build a car. I think persistence and patience are the key words. I'm learning a lot and trying to improve my skills whenever possible. And loving it!

 

I can't believe I just found this thread...that is one unique and beautiful car.

 

Thanks ffr1222k! Glad you found the thread, hope you'll enjoy!

 

What type of tinning solution are you using on the bare metal? Do you then check the 'tinned spot' with steel wool (scrubbing with molten lead) to make sure you have a nice shinny and bright surface that lead is sticking to?

This is how I learned about 35 years ago. Was curious what folks are doing today?

 

B&S - axle grease works real good I hear lmao !

Nice work Farmer - damn I love this Plym !!

Keep em coming !

Rat

 

Hey Rat . . . how is that new motor treating you? I've crossed over to the 'Dark Side' -- working on the FlatCad engine for Bonneville. Wait tell you see what we're cooking up . Flatheads and Hemis (all kinds) -- damn things keep me occupied!

 

This is how I've learned learned to do it: First clean the bare metal, until its absolutely clean. Then apply a lead paste, heat this up until you see silver speckles coming through and then wipe it off. This should leave a shiny/bright base on which you can start leading.

Heat the lead and apply to the applicable area. After this application, heat the lead again and use the wooden "spoon" to flatten the lead into place. On the wooden "spoons" use sheep fat (warmed up until it becomes a fluid).

I found that the tricky part is applying the lead. The lead changes quickly from a "clay" type to fluid quickly. The trick is to apply short bursts of heat and see if it will budge. Repeat until it becomes "clay" like.

The pic shows most of the leading done, with the area above the window being smoothed with sand paper.

 

Be real careful with sanding lead -- wear a good respirator and never grind old lead out . . . bad stuff!

When I used to lead, I learned to keep moving the heat on/off the lead to first get a bunch of it on the material . . . then to keep it like thick mud as I was using the paddle to smooth it out.

The other thing to really think about is making sure you have good metal-prep solutions to neutralize the acid. You need to kill as much of it as possible, not have any pin-holes, etc.. This is the crap that wants to eat back through the paint.

Looks like you're having some fun!

Dale

 

Thanks Dale! The paste apperently neutralizes and creates a base layer for the lead. The sanding was done by hand (only lightle) but will use something to cover my breathing parts next time. Thanks for the advise.

 

Anytime you're working with lead, wear a good respirator . . . not the cheap white dust masks -- a high quality one. You need to neutralize the lead AFTER you're done with it . . . baking soda and water or a commercial neutralizer that is designed for the purpose. Do not just primer/paint over it once you're finished with your sculpture work or you're asking for trouble later on.

 

Thanks for the tip regarding the baking soda and water or neutralizer. Didn't know that one, thanks Dale.

 

Finished the driver side around the b-pillar and smoothed/sanded it all. Will tackle the door later. Going to move to the other side today.

I've learned a lot regarding leading the last few days and now have the confidence/experience to do the other side all by myself. This should go a little quicker this time around.

 

Here are the pics.

 

Lookin' Smooth!

 

wow, that looks really nice. Great job and kudos to learning a new art form!

 

Looks like you got the hang of that lead! Great job, looks perfect!

 

Thanks robleticia! Here's one more side profile shot. To get to this stage, it probably took me about 20 hours of work, but well worth it I think.

 

Look ma, no bondo! Nice work and that coupe has a killer profile!

 

Looks great,keep it coming!
That reminds me that i need to hire a leadguy at some point.I know something about welding and fabricating,but i dont know a shit about a lead work..
I guess its better to watch and learn than mess something up.

 

Got started on the passenger side today. Spend the good part of 6 hours cleaning the to be leaded area, applying the paste and lead. Will continue again tomorrow, hoping to get most of the area around the b-pillar and small window done.

 

Looking good - keep the updates coming

 

Thanks rrbrucea. Like I've stated a few post ago, I'm trying to keep the bondo to a minimum. Sure, bondo would be a lot quicker and easier, it's just not for me. Leading does take time and practice, but in the long run it will be better in my opinion. Thanks for the kind words.

 

Lookin awesome, Eric!!!...keep those updates coming.

 

Hey I've got 200 pounds in my 41 Chevy ( Probably 140 after shaping ) and it still is sound 12 years later. All i can add is try and get the shape that you want as close as possible before filing. It will save you a lot of time, effort and money in the long run. Leading is a lost art and it's worth all the time and effort you put into it. Also make sure that you neutralize it after that you are done. The methods to get the metal clean to start with will cause more damage then you started with if not neutralized. Nice job by the way.

 

I love what you're doing here - I have a special place in my heart for Plymouths... and yours is a sexy beast!