hey i just stripped the paint off my 55 Cadillac. the only problem is stubborn surface rust on the hood in a few spots. I took a more abrasive wheel to the rust but it didn't budge. the center of the hood seems VERY flimsy and will easily warp when media blasted. QUESTION: which is a lesser evil: trying to fix a warp from mediablasting OR putting POR-15 on the spots and hoping rust doesnt surface in 5 or 10 years? Thanks
If you were real careful, you should be able to mediablast it without warping it? Slow down, watch your pressure, and move around often so you don't get heat build-up in one area....
POR-15 is meant to be a sealer, to keep the elements like moisture and air from attacking the metal, same as a primer/sealer. I've found that paint doesn't adhere well to POR-15 like traditional primers and sealers that are meant to be painted over, so I would consider going with a light media blast on a sever eangle. An experienced blaster will be able to remove any "scale" without warping of the metal. Good luck.
My experience with POR-15 is that once your hood is covered with the stuff, it will be rotted away within a year. Seems to trap the moisture against the steel rather then protect the steel from the moisture as it advertised to do. And for those supporter of the stuff, yes, I followed the directions completely, including all the pre-POR process. Spent a bunch of money only to have my box sides start to rot away while sitting inside in my dry garage. Gene
From what I understand, its not the heat generated from abrasive blasting that causes a piece to warp. The heat is negligible. The piece warps because of the pounding action of the media. As if you were hitting it with a hammer, just thousands of little hammers. You're peening it over.
Home About Us FAQ's Contact Testimonials Mastercoat Silver Mastercoat Black AG111/Tractorkote Hot Jet High Heat Data Sheets Captain Lee's Metal Prep Gas Tank Repair How To Customer Service Inner Panel Protector Mastercoat levels heavy pitting and stops rust at almost half the cost of the others. Guaranteed. Buy direct and save! This entire car was primed with MasterSeries Permanent Rust Sealer/Surfacer/Primer. For the past 20 years, restoration shops have primed the entire car with MasterSeries Sealer to avoid comebacks. See our photo gallery. What makes Mastercoat different than the others? Click here to find out! The MasterSeries Coating Line was founded in 1988 because we wanted the most powerful rust sealers and topcoats in the world. Our permanent rust sealer has demonstrated for the last 30 years that nothing outperforms it in salt spray tests. Our salt spray tests run from 8000 to 14,000 hours. Our AG111 anti-graffiti subway coating withstood constant washing with solvents and alkali cleaner, when used on NYCTA subway cars. At the end of 10 years, the subway cars still maintained a high gloss and color retention. This is excellent for chassis and underbody protection on any vehicle. When you speak to Mastercoat personnel, you’re speaking to people who use the product and do extensive restoration work on antique automobiles, so you’ll always get the right answer. Mastercoat is also ideal for tractors and farm equipment restoration. Unlike the competition, sunlight is not a problem for Mastercoat. Stops rust permanently and levels heavy pitting…GUARANTEED! “The best bar none!” - Auto Restorer Magazine, June 2000. MASTERCOAT ULTIMATE CHASSIS KIT AVAILABLE FOR $63.95. Includes AG111 with hardener, Mastercoat Sealer/Primer/Surfacer, and thinner. The competition can’t touch this one! COMPLETE TRACTOR PAINT KITS ARE NOW AVAILABLE FOR $69.95! AG111 is available in the most popular tractor colors. Call 1-800-833-8933 for color availability and to order. NEW PRODUCTS! We have high grade premium industrial floor coatings in both epoxies and urethanes, with and without flakes, and anti-slip at prices below the competition. Call us or email us for information and ordering! NOW SHIPPING TO CANADA! Please call 1-973-728-8157 for rates. Feel free to contact us with any questions, comments, or suggestions. You can email us at pmmasterseries@gmail.com or you can call us at 1-800-833-8933 from 9am-5pm EST. Dealer inquiries welcome. <noscript>&amp;amp;lt;br /&amp;amp;gt; &amp;amp;lt;a href=”http://s36.sitemeter.com/stats.asp?site=s36masterseriescoatingline” mce_href=”http://s36.sitemeter.com/stats.asp?site=s36masterseriescoatingline” target=”_top”&amp;amp;gt;&amp;amp;lt;br /&amp;amp;gt; &amp;amp;lt;img src=”http://s36.sitemeter.com/meter.asp?site=s36masterseriescoatingline” mce_src=”http://s36.sitemeter.com/meter.asp?site=s36masterseriescoatingline” alt=”Site Meter” border=”0″/&amp;amp;gt;&amp;amp;lt;/a&amp;amp;gt;&amp;amp;lt;br /&amp;amp;gt; </noscript> Mastercoat AG111: The Ultimate Chassis Paint. Can your chassis paint do this? Beginning in 1976, all through the mid-80’s, a fleet of 6500 NYCTA subway cars were coated with AG111 to combat the corrosion and graffiti problems. After 18 months of testing, AG111 was the only coating that could withstand repeated vigorous scrubbings and washings with heavy bristle brushes and strong solvents. Seven enclosed car wash facilities washed 400 cars a week. A solvent/alkali cleaner was sprayed on and allowed to soak 5-8 minutes. The car then passed through a wash machine where it was thoroughly scrubbed and put through three rinses. AG111 cures to a hard mirror-like finish, which other paints cannot penetrate. According to the NYCTA spokesman, after the 18 month test, the subway cars retained their gloss and shine after each washing, and all traces of graffiti disappeared. “The cars looked like they had just been through the paint shop,” the spokesman said. A complete chassis kit in either satin or gloss is only $63.95. Includes AG111, primer, and thinner. Buy direct and save!
The roof of my 50 Pontiac was rusted really bad - Naval Jelly and some Scotchbrite got it off - I had to leave the Naval Jelly on for about an hour (and ocassionally refresh it) but it got it right down to bare metal.
The Eastwood company sells some rust encapsulaters that work really well try that and then top coat it with what you like.
If the rust is on the hood, Why not try what i was thinking of doing? If the Vinegar method actually works we well as how it's been noted. Make a pan, Deep enough to engulf the rusted areas of the hood in the vinegar. Then leave for about three days, And the rust should virtually wipe off! But with 55 Caddys, as compared the 60 Chev's, The hood on a 60' could be dipped completley in a pan about 3" Where as a 55 cadillac would have to be 6-7"? Because the nose on the hood i'd imagne? Anyways, There's my 2 cents worth!
i had totally forgot about naval jelly. i just tried it. Left it on for about 20 minutes. worked pretty well. I think my plan will be to mediablast the spots on the hood that are on a curve (don't warp easily). And for the two serious spots in the flat center part of the hood (that warps easily) i'll try more naval jelly then clean and apply Ospho. Are there any paints/primers that won't adhere to Ospho?
If you want to dip any large pieces in a mild caustic bath I would try a plastic kiddie pool. They are cheep and large. How to dispose of the caustic liquid after the dip is another problem. If you wanted to use it again a 55 gallon blue plastic barrel might work well. I have seen the used barrels for sale for about $15.00. Dick
big creep: You are right soda blasting doesn't heat up hardly at all(especially when used with a water jet to keep dust to a minimum), but it is not aggressive enough to strip rust. Works great for stripping paint, bondo and the like, but never any luck with rust. Always had to use san or crushed glass to get rust off. Crushed glass and a careful eye on pressure and media amount with the right angle would yeild no problems to warping the hood or anything else.
theres plenty of products that you can wipe on and have it remove the rust , may take a few applications though ive used this stuff ...works as advertised and will clean it back to clean steel with enough applications , no convertions or magic it just cleans it off http://www.bilthamber.com/deoxgel.html
theres a link on here about CLR-" stole from another sight-cheeck it out" i think thats what i'm gonna go with on my poncho..
Used Captain Lees from Master Series,,wipe it on surface rust,,,will disolve the rust and leave a zinc chromate coating,,,then prime,,,no rust bleed through,,,,or store parts out of the weather and they will not rust,,,
The Jalopy Journal
