Ok I just replaced my flywheel and got a new starter its has a sounds rough when they engage, it's shimmed 1/8th between the gears and timing is set 10degrees btdc it runns top notch when on the road just start up is rough and I dont wanna beat the flywheel up again so.....any advice ? I'm all ears ! Also what gauge wire should I be using from the bat to statter and ignition switch to stater
Rev, have you tried the starter without the shim, dont use it just to use it. Without knowing anything about the engine, its hard to say battery cable size, or even advice on the noise. Battery cable to starter should be at least 4 gauge, is 2 or 1 beter, yes but probably not nesassary. Your grounds are just as important as the positive leads. I'm checking on the gauge of the other wire. I have some diagrams that say 16 others 14, and some that have 10, I think 14 will do just fine. You should get some other input, I'm sure. BDM
You need to do some basic stuff before you eat another flywheel. Take the solenoid off and manually engage the Bendix and check the mesh with the flywheel teeth. The starter for a 168 tooth flywheel is different than the one for the 153 tooth. Make sure you have the correct parts. The two bolts that attach the starter to the block MUST be the correct factory shouldered bolts so it holds the starter exactly square with the flywheel. You can't use hardware store bolts. As far as wire goes the bigger the better. At least #2 positive cable to the battery and #12 from the ignition switch too the solenoid. Wire brush the ground connections.
Yea I first tried the starter with out shims but added what I needed to clear the 1/8th gap between the bendix and flywheel gears, I'm using brand new correct knurled starter bolts too I'm double check the gauge on the wires! Thanks
=========================================================== I ate starters in my motorhome till I swapped the bolts,and my problems went away. Won't tell ya how many starters i killed .. had them on & off on a regualr bases.. Rick
I went through hell shimming a started and even replaced it three times, i finally went to napa and got a starter there, never had an issue, starts up quietly without any shims
I had problems with cheap kragen starters. Went and bought a quality one at a real auto parts store. No more problems.
FWIW: The old adage: u get what u pay for is true. I have gotten to a point to not buying anything from AZ or O reallys, except for coolant, oil, but no replacement parts. Years ago I had to go through 3 replacement starters till I got one that worked and had no weird noises. I have used NAPA and have been happy with their service and knowledge. Their parts are top notch.
reman starters all come from the same 2 sources. Just different boxes. You don't always get what you pay for at NAPA. Oreilly sells AC Delco. I have had the best luck either filing down the nose cone, then shimming to fit. Or getting an oem from a junkyard and rebuilding it myself. If there is a gap, a shim will not close the gap. Shims move it away. I don't think some people realize that it has to be a matched set of nose cone, block to get it right. don't blame the company that sells it, because you won't check the fit before you are "done".
Had the same problem on the Willys gasser. I tried shimming it every which way, but to no avail. I swapped out the OEM type starter for a McLeod mini starter I had laying around and problem gone. Many of the mini starters work for both 153 and 168 tooth flywheels and I obviously had the wrong starter on the Willys.
====================================== In our case ,it was the nose cone holes had to much clearence,and the starter would move. New bolts solved that. so when you replace the starter,get bolts to match.
So remanufactured parts are junk no matter where u buy them? Have to remember that. Well I know that NAPA suppliers for brakes have better quality control than Raybestos. I inspect any part I am trying to replace with the old part so that I know it should fit. But when you find four primary brake shoes in the box and the dude at Kragen says that it will be fine and the parts are Raybestos, then something is definitely wrong. Be aware of what you buy from the cheapy auto parts outfits.
It is possible the last guy had them pull two boxes, to measure which he needed for his unknown axle he bought at the swap, and they re-boxed them incorrectly. Counter guys aren't the expert. And their pay reflects that. Oreilly sells 4 lines of brake pads. Each has a different quality, warranty and price point.
I have bought many a Raybestos product from different parts houses with the same issues. Since then no more Raybestos brakes for me. Just did two brake jobs with Napa safety stop parts and very happy.
I agree with u on the counter dudes at AZ, OR, and Pepboys are just following the computer for the part #. Bet 90% of them couldn't tell a primary shoe from a secondary shoe. I know the dude I talked to thought there was only one type of shoe. And they wonder why DIY's have so many problems. Years ago I would give all my business to a very reputable and reasonably priced parts house because they knew their stuff. Hard to find the old time parts houses now. Bummer.
Reman starters do NOT all come from the same two places, unless you're buying them from chain stores. I know of two local rebilders here in town that have been in the business for longer than I've been alive. Every big city has local good rebuilders in addition to what the chain stores use.
If you have a mix-n-match combination, this may not help. Any time I need a starter done, I drop MY starter off at the local auto electrical shop and have them do it up. It may cost a few bucks more, but they don't cut corners and I've been dealing with them for many years. I'm personally leery of a $22.95 starter even if it looks bright and shiny in the box. Bob
Vote number 3 for a reputable local auto electric shop/rebuilder. They strive for zero comebacks not some B.S. corporate 10 or 20 percent is acceptable comebacks, and we just build it into the price. Yellow pages when you need a starter or alternator, stock style anyway. BDM
Back brace to the block also Helped me, but I have also found the Junkyard starter very helpful when it comes to having a OEM nose and OEM bolts...
I had it happen to me before, only thing I found to fix it was bracing the back of the starter to the block.
1/8 inch shim or 1/8 between the gears, either way is bad.......a paperclip is a good guage for starter shimming........for wires, 4 ga to the main post and all the others 14 to 16 is fine, and make sure you have a good engine to chassis ground, should be fine........
Another tip: bench test that sucker before putting it in! I don't care if it's a new one or a reman, I bench test it 15 or 20 times(making sure it hits every single time) and also to make sure it does what it's supposed to do before I throw it in. JM$.02
The Jalopy Journal
