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Projects 26 T Roadster Pick Up build Thread

Discussion in 'The Hokey Ass Message Board' started by Blue One, Mar 27, 2010.

  1. Blue One
    Joined: Feb 6, 2010
    Posts: 11,490

    Blue One
    ALLIANCE MEMBER
    from Alberta

    Another shot :)
     

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  2. t-rod
    Joined: Feb 7, 2009
    Posts: 423

    t-rod
    Member

    That looks ALOT better. You had quite the bind built into the suspension before. As always, I'm blown away by your super craftsmanship.
     
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  3. Blue One
    Joined: Feb 6, 2010
    Posts: 11,490

    Blue One
    ALLIANCE MEMBER
    from Alberta



    Thanks, glad you like it.
     
  4. Blue One
    Joined: Feb 6, 2010
    Posts: 11,490

    Blue One
    ALLIANCE MEMBER
    from Alberta

    And a bump. Went out to the garage and totally rebuilt one of the upper front 4 bar mounts as I noticed it somehow was a little off square and sat at a small angle. Bushing tabs were crooked too.

    Must have been tired when I put that one together.

    So I cut it all apart and started over.

    It was not going to be seen under the car and would have worked fine, however I knew it was there :eek:

    It's right now :). And somehow it just "feels" better. ;)
     
    Last edited: Dec 5, 2010
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  5. Boones
    Joined: Mar 4, 2001
    Posts: 9,691

    Boones
    Member
    from Kent, Wa
    1. Northwest HAMBers

    just some small changes appears to have made a huge difference. do you think the heim joints at the axle mount location were causing some of the issues versus the new mounts.

    can you show a side view of your lower wishbone..

    this is closer to what I will have, a center upper mount (the leaf spring mounting point). it gives me hope.
     
  6. Blue One
    Joined: Feb 6, 2010
    Posts: 11,490

    Blue One
    ALLIANCE MEMBER
    from Alberta


    Eliminating the top heim from the wishbones and moving to the one pivot point under the rear end makes all the difference.

    The urethane bushings are standard rear 4 bar bushings that have been used on hundreds or more rods. Got them from the local rod shop, likely came from TCI.

    The rear end now moves as it should and the urethane bushings will be quieter and smoother and locate the rear end more positively.

    Here is a side shot of modified rear wishbone (which most of will be behind the rear tire of course :)) still turned out ok.

    Should be a good suspension and no panhard needed either.

    I'll still have to do a panhard for the front.
    Larry.
     

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  7. Blue One
    Joined: Feb 6, 2010
    Posts: 11,490

    Blue One
    ALLIANCE MEMBER
    from Alberta

    And a sort of "birds eye view" of the chassis as it is now.
     

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  8. POLYFRIED 35
    Joined: Sep 1, 2010
    Posts: 886

    POLYFRIED 35
    Member

    Very nice job .... looking forward to the final product!
     
  9. brucer
    Joined: Jun 5, 2008
    Posts: 332

    brucer
    Member
    from western ky

    can you give some more details on your front crossmember.. i cant tell from the pics, is it a bent piece or is it three pieces welded together? what type of retainer plate is it using?



    nice build, looks nice and clean..
     
    Last edited: Dec 6, 2010
  10. Blue One
    Joined: Feb 6, 2010
    Posts: 11,490

    Blue One
    ALLIANCE MEMBER
    from Alberta





    I did the front crossmember from 3 pieces welded together, and the plate is done like the other two pictures here.

    I'm using a mono leaf spring with shim plates taking the place of the other leafs and the plate is held by the tabs and 2- 3/8" grade 8 bolts.
     

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  11. brucer
    Joined: Jun 5, 2008
    Posts: 332

    brucer
    Member
    from western ky

    thanks blue one
     
  12. Nice progress, and nice work. I'm a little concerned about the spring retention plate method in your picture in post #133. I don't think it would take much of an encounter with an immovable object to twist the tabs out of the slots and let the spring and axle assembly out. U-bolts aren't as clean looking but they are considerably more secure for that job. I could be wrong - just an observation.

    Charlie
     
  13. Blue One
    Joined: Feb 6, 2010
    Posts: 11,490

    Blue One
    ALLIANCE MEMBER
    from Alberta

    I hope not Charlie, I actually copied the design from the guys at Shadow Rods. They use it on their XL 27 chassis.

    And the plate is made from 1/4" plate ,I made my tabs wider than the Shadow rods version.

    I may end up lengthening the tabs and making up a type of a locking plate ,I have an idea that would still leave it clean in appearance and be more secure (insurance I suppose).

    And it will still be slim enough to be tucked behind the bottom of the 28 shell.

    Larry.
     
    Last edited: Dec 6, 2010
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  14. Larry,

    I figured you had thought it out...I hadn't seen the Shadow Rods solution before. Not intending to be overly critical. I spent many years in safety inspections and some in drag racing tech and I still think along the lines of "what could possibly go wrong?".

    Keep up the good work.

    Charlie
     
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  15. Boones
    Joined: Mar 4, 2001
    Posts: 9,691

    Boones
    Member
    from Kent, Wa
    1. Northwest HAMBers

    thanks for the extra pictures and more detail on the rear set up. This gives me hope for my set up which as you know was going to be very similar. I was going to do a 2 mount at the rear like you did, but now might go with a single and with a rear transverse spring it will keep it located and allow for twist/ movement.
     
  16. Blue One
    Joined: Feb 6, 2010
    Posts: 11,490

    Blue One
    ALLIANCE MEMBER
    from Alberta

    Sounds like you will be on the right path with that Ken. By the way I understand that happy birthday congrats are in order.

    Hope you had a good one.

    No more updates here now likely till the new year. :)
     
  17. langy
    Joined: Apr 27, 2006
    Posts: 5,730

    langy
    Member Emeritus

    I would junk the monoleaf and get a proper spring, i've seen to many monoleafs break for my liking.



     
  18. Blue One
    Joined: Feb 6, 2010
    Posts: 11,490

    Blue One
    ALLIANCE MEMBER
    from Alberta

    Update time, reached a milestone more or less.

    I finally got the chassis off the table and sitting on the tires. It's not exactly a roller yet as the steering still needs to be figured out and built-installed.

    The next step will be to remount the body and mock up the 312 and trans, build motor and trans mounts,as well as any other crossmembers then sort out the steering column, box and all the links.

    Still not sure which way to go with the steering,
    a lot will be determined once the Y block is in place.

    A few pictures, looks like a hot rod chassis ! :)
     

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  19. Blue One
    Joined: Feb 6, 2010
    Posts: 11,490

    Blue One
    ALLIANCE MEMBER
    from Alberta

    Re- mounted the body. :)
     

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  20. daddio211
    Joined: Aug 26, 2008
    Posts: 6,012

    daddio211
    Member

    Too cool Blue One! Keep the progress pics coming!
     
  21. Blue One
    Joined: Feb 6, 2010
    Posts: 11,490

    Blue One
    ALLIANCE MEMBER
    from Alberta

    Now the Y Block is finding it's new home. :)
     

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  22. Blue One
    Joined: Feb 6, 2010
    Posts: 11,490

    Blue One
    ALLIANCE MEMBER
    from Alberta

    First part of the rear trans mount and crossmember.
     

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  23. Blue One
    Joined: Feb 6, 2010
    Posts: 11,490

    Blue One
    ALLIANCE MEMBER
    from Alberta

    My version of side mounts for the Y Block 312. :)
     

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  24. swimeasy
    Joined: Oct 17, 2006
    Posts: 1,067

    swimeasy
    Member

    Those motor mounts are way cool!!
     
    Last edited: May 19, 2011
  25. Blue One
    Joined: Feb 6, 2010
    Posts: 11,490

    Blue One
    ALLIANCE MEMBER
    from Alberta

    I used the tubing I bent from my Bending Tubing thread, (1 1/4" x 1/8" wall) to build the tubular center crossmembers in my chassis.

    They tie the transmission crossmember in and strengthen everything.

    Pictures below.
     

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  26. Blue One
    Joined: Feb 6, 2010
    Posts: 11,490

    Blue One
    ALLIANCE MEMBER
    from Alberta

    Final tubes put in for strength.
     

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  27. langy
    Joined: Apr 27, 2006
    Posts: 5,730

    langy
    Member Emeritus

    Starting to look real nice, keep the pics coming :)
     
  28. Blue One
    Joined: Feb 6, 2010
    Posts: 11,490

    Blue One
    ALLIANCE MEMBER
    from Alberta

    Wanted to get a seat in place so I could sit in it holding the steering wheel and making Y-Block engine sounds :D

    Actually I need to know where I will be sitting so I can place the steering column, cowl steering box and brake pedal etc.

    I had a Dodge minivan seat the narrowest one, picked it up earlier at the self serve yard for $30.

    I wasn't sure if I would use it, but thought it would be nice to have an actual seat with a metal frame and a spring suspension bed, rather than the sometimes used slab of plywood you see in some T's.

    So naturally the damned thing was too wide !

    I decided to try stripping it down and narrowing the frame and foam.

    I cut 3 1/2" out of the middle of the frame and also the foam. The foam I sliced straight and glued the pieces back together.

    I think it turned out pretty fair. It's comfortable and doesn't look too bad.

    I think I can get it about an inch lower down, right now the side of the bucket body is about 2" below my armpit sitting in the seat. So an inch lower would be nice.

    Pictures below take a look and don't be afraid to comment :)
     

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  29. gnichols
    Joined: Mar 6, 2008
    Posts: 11,396

    gnichols
    Member
    from Tampa, FL

    Nice job on that seat! Looks super comfy. Gary
     
  30. Blue One
    Joined: Feb 6, 2010
    Posts: 11,490

    Blue One
    ALLIANCE MEMBER
    from Alberta

    Now I have a decision to make. Keep the bench I have fitted or go with a pair of these Bomber seats.

    I really like the bombers and they would probably be better with the theme of my build....

    And they can be comfortable too... Opinions ???

    http://www.hotrodalleyspeed.com/BomberSeats.html
     

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