Thank you Fimby...I will not be using the inside-outside air flapper door so I cut off the vac. diaphragm controlling it for room which is the only vacuum part on the AC. The rest are controlled by cables...1 floor or front 2 def. and 3 temp which mixes the heater with the AC. It will be easy to hook up to the original Dodge heater controls... There are 3 cable hook-ups on the original heater control cables.. 2 sliders....1 says Temp and the other says fresh air summer- winter...3 is a twist type cable knob that is for defrost. the original defrost control also has an integral switch which used to be for the separate defroster fan motor. I will use this switch to control the compressor clutch... As for the radio...I need to search for a 2 piece unit that will fit in a 3" deep space on the dash...or maybe a remotely controlled unit. As you can see in the pictures, there is a chrome pot-metal bezel that will have to be modified with the AC ducts and vents. I'm not going to put vents on each side of the dash...Just the middle... I believe that this is a great AC unit for a retro installation. Cold out there again this morning but I'll try and get something done...
Just came up with an idea for the heater hose cover...An old busted aluminum valve cover? Cut one in half and mount it over the hoses with the cut side down? Any other ideas?
WOOHOO!! Found another fix for the heater hose location...The heater core slides in it's hole and clips in place. On a huntch, I pulled it out and rotated it 180 and by removing the thru-firewall seal and bracket it went back in place and cliped in with a little clearancing around the temp flapper door hinge. There is also a step on the heater hose tube that needs to be cut off where it makes contact with the hinge cover. I think you can see how I did it in the pictures... Now I will have to fill the hole in the firewall and make 2 new ones next to the AC line hook-up. It will look much cleaner that way... Wish I'de known this before I cut the holes in the firewall. Oh-well...easy fix unless I find something else for it. The top of the pictures are the firewall side...
After rotating the heater core I had to cut more into the defroster tube which extends across the cowl. in the picture you can see the core tubes which are 3" from the sheet metal. I could use 2 3/4" copper ells from Home Depot to head the hoses in the right direction. Somewhere I saw a heater heater hose that had a molded in right angle on the end. If I could find out what vehicle it was I could use them. Well...While grinding down the patch where I first cut the hole in the firewall for the heater hoses I got a tiny hot piece of rock or metal stuck to my eye and it's driving me crazy! Had my safeties on but... Emergency is 50 miles away so I believe I'll wait till tomorrow morning and go to the local clinic.
get to the doc asap....it sucks when they hafta scrape the rust ring off the surface of your eye cuz its been left too long, ask me how i know....lol....firewall looks right on!
Thanks BCT Those heater hoses didn't look right as they were... I will make a 2 piece cover plate to go around the AC lines like the one I made for the heater hoses which is some 1/8" aluminum plate. It's Monday morning and fixing to go to the doc. I had to take one of my Hydrocodone pills last night just to be able to sleep. This happened to me about 10 years or so ago while I was chopping the top on a 53 Chevy truck. The doctor put some deadening drops in my eye and then plucked it out with an exacto knife. Took about 15 minutes. In 3 days I was back to normal. I'm going to buy buy me one of those complete face shields just in case. I would urge everyone to do the same...
Didn't go to the doctor for my eye... Got to reading about it on the net about using a strong magnet to pull it out. It works! I got it loosened up with a Q-tip and layed an old H.D. magnet across my eyeball and kept rotating it around and it eventually came out. I wouldn't recommend this for anyone else though... Dang! I saved some money that I could use towards the Dodge!!! NOW...Where was I... Passenger door... I got sidetracked with the AC unit. Well...the AC fits great now so I can mark that off my to-do list! Like I said earlier there are 3 cables on the AC unit and 3 cable pulls on my original heater/defrost control. no problem.. The fan speed control on the VW AC unit has 4 speeds and the original fan switch had 2 speeds. I will just run the med lo speed and high speed from the 4. The low speed was just too low. I have been gathering parts for another project... (another log on the fire) Something for the kids to drive around... 4 Honda XL 175 front motorcycle wheels tires and brakes all 4 the same 3"X21" and a complete model T axle. Plenty of 2X2 square tubing 11ga. ANY IDEAS???
Weather has been bad here so I will get back on the pass. door as soon as it warms up here about end of Feb.
I thought I had better update my thread... I have nearly completed the depot hack replica and will be getting back to my Dodge shortly... ...after running off all the red wasps and dirt dobbers and removing there nests...all the webs and spiders with a broom and a bug bomb I cranked the engine and checked for leaks...everything is OK... I want to concentrate on the door glass first... ...I have included some pictures of where I'm at on the hack...
I know its bringing up old stuff but what year cavilear rack and pinion did you use? And what was that disc brake set from?
The rack is from an 86 Cavalear and the disc brake kit is from Scarebird... 88 Diplomat rotors..72 Challenger Calipers...
This is the other project...A 1925 Model T Depot Hack Parade car. Powered by a riding mower drive of 13.5 HP. Once I paint the rear fenders and mount them I will be finished and can get back on the Dodge...
Strait Edge...Here are the pics of the fender trim. These are NOS with no dents. they could use a good polishing to get out some fine scratches but nothing major... I also have 4 new brake cylinders for the front...2 uppers and 2 lowers still in the wrap...rebuilt master cylinder and another master cylinder core...4 wheel cylinder kits 4 tail light lenses 2 are NOS 1 is a driver and one has fogged over. the cowl vent and handle I will sheet over the cowl vent as the AC unit is taking up that space...a complete set of NOS shoes in there boxes I will not be using. Oh...And the 2 tail light bezels as I opted to french in some 80's cady tail lights... I was going to go back all original but that did not happen so I have these items for sale or trade. I need a windshield rubber, back glass rubber, any high performance parts for a Ford 351M 400 cam (thumpr), intake, carb, etc...It has a 2 bbl on it now. I can post pics if needed.
It has been a long time sense I have been on here so It's time to get back on the Wayfarer... I have finished the Depot Hack and have sold it. It is now owned by a Shriner in S. Texas... I will get back on the door glass in a short...
I have a 1950 Dodge Wayfarer 2 Door Sedan for sale , if fair shape ready for restoration am asking $6500 I can send pics if u email at sovereignii@bellsouth.net Douglas Thompson USA 904-487-8403
Steze Great pictures of the vent window elimination on your 50. I have a 51 and your thread has save me countless hours and pointed me in the right direction many times. I saw your last post was a year ago. Any further progress on the 50? Can I hope for any future post? Great work and thanks for your time to post on the HAMB. Dave B
Thought I should add a post... I drove the Wayfarer for the first time last Monday... Steering is great but needs a front end alignment with a machine... I'll take pictures soon...
I know t has been a while... I have been off the Wayfarer for a couple of years working on other projects... Getting back into it slowly... I still haven't finished the pass window yet... The right side of the car took a lick from the parking light to the front of the rear fender at one time... Door is twisted from the wreck... The rear bottom of the door is pushed in about 1/2"... The fix looks like removing the bottom 1/3 of the door skin and twisting it before attaching the skin... OK...I added a 15" flex fan along with the electric on the front... Everything is wired except for the fuel gauge, window motors, and interior and dash lights... Fuse box is behind the glove box door... Thought I was going to have problems with the wiper motor and arms with the VW AC unit but they just clear everything... Found a universal wiper motor on ebay made a bellcrank with set screw and attached the 2 wiper arms to it and bolted it to one of the original vacuum motor mounts... As for the steering, I used the original column which has 2 bushings instead of roller bearings...Will need to change these out... A little too much drag on the shaft... I ran a 2/0 welding cable from the starter solenoid to the trunk and put the battery there... Ground is a piece of 2/0 bolted to the jack hold down point... It bolts to the frame through a body hole... The ground is picked up from a 3/8" bolt welded to the frame just below the firewall... Just finished changing out the water temp gauge with an aftermarket... I just took the bezel off , cut off the "can" and bolted it to the instrument back plate... Rear window is in and windshield is cut... I need to sand and brush rust encapsulator around the windshield opening first... I need to take the old door window pattern and cut out a 1/4" piece of ply so I can refine the sills and center the glass channel before I pop them in place... I want to put the original seats back in but they are stripped... They need to be blasted and painted first... I will make the headliner from a king size wool blanket... I should have installed it before the glass but I can get it in OK... I will glue it in under the front and rear glass channels using Poly Fiber's Poly Tack...STRONG STUFF! It is used for gluing fabric to aircraft... Only worries I have right now are my welded up steering arms...<label for="rb_iconid_9"></label> I turned both directions to see if the tires are dragging but turns true after using the formula I found on the net... A straight line from the kingpin through the steering arm eye to the center of the rear axle... It's time to pull them back off and add welds to beef them up till I'm satisfied... I had thought about having a pair made on a CNC mill... Steve
Well....Been a while sense posting here... Here's an update... The first picture is how I put a 64 T-bird AC vent in the Wayfarer radio bezel... The second is where the AC levers are located...Rear is the temp door and the close one is the dash or floor lever... The defrost flapper is on the side behind the gauge... I also installed a universal wiper motor which is a push/pull type... The third picture is the ash tray...That's as far as it will close due to the AC unit... I smoke and the ash tray will be open anyway... The fourth picture is the instruments... Originally the steering column was between the 2nd and 3rd. gauges... With the wider engine I had to move it over 2-1/2" which put it centered to the center gauge... Next was a pain!...The switch bezels, pot metal strip, had to be cut down to fit the new column location... The wiper switch used to be on the left side of the column but I moved it to the left side next to the center radio bezel... You can see where I cut it... The fifth picture is the brake pedal and lever action... I used the original booster and master cylinder from the E-350 and has the larger piston. I had to add another pin for the push rod eye to a shorter ratio... It's better but not right... Going to order a street rod booster/ master cylinder combo with a 1" bore instead of the 1-1/8"... The sixth picture is the fuse panel... Not mounted yet... The last picture is one of the original low tone horns mounted across in front of the radiator... The original horn button wire went straight through the steering shaft and out the steering box. I tore apart the E-350 steering column and robbed the contact ring and JB welded it on the back of the steering wheel... Made a contact brush from a motor brush...WORKS OK! What needs fixing now is the steering column bushings need to be replaced by roller bearings... The most important part that needs attention is my cut down steering arms... I would like to send them to a professional welder and just have them built up to a larger diameter by weld fill... All gauges are working except for the temp... I need a Mechanical water temp gauge that has a 6 foot capillary tube to add in in place of the original.
Here picture one, The new windshield... Picture two is the rear window...This brought me much mental pressure as I would hate to break this one!!! Third is the stock grill with 2 universal amber lights for turn signals and parking lights and headlights Fourth is the tail lights are working... Fifth is the under hood wiring...Solenoid, fan relay, and the oo ga. cable to the battery in the trunk. Ground from battery goes straight down through the body to the frame... Picked up from the frame to a transmission bolt, from the frame to the fender well with a bolt on the solenoid... Splits off here through the firewall and to the grounding lug mounted on the brake pedal bracket...Then to each component... One ground goes to the fuse panel which has a grounding bar... Well...That's it for now....If I could afford a tank of gas I could check the fuel gauge better!!! LOL!!!
Looking good bud, I can't wait to see the ol Wayfarer on the road. You have givin me so many ideas and pointed me in the right direction with your build more times than I can count. It's great to see how resourceful you've been and everything that has been incorporated to your build. Here's a few shots of my Coupe Posted using the Full Custom H.A.M.B. App!
Looks great Moparob.... I have a windshield visor here but may or may not use it...Don't know yet.... I cut off my drip rails and if I do use it I will have to drill through the top of the A pillar and weld in nuts to bolt the visor to... Steve
The Jalopy Journal
