The elusive 224/3.7 MerCruiser banger

Mercury painted their carbs black as far as I know. [Making them easy to see at a distance in a swapmeet]. then you read the tag but sadly I've no data for you there.

 

You don't find it, you make it, and it will take some time as there will be some experimenting before you get the size and jetting right.

Don't run throttle cables to each carb, use a rod to connect their butterflies.

If you encounter flow reversion out the carb throat, use a longer intake tract.

 

I put a 2 1/4 inch(ID) glasspack inside my 4" exhaust and found that there was enough backpressure created by it to begin to push one joint in my pipe apart at modest rpm. I was surprised.

 

The blue framed build with white pannelling- that's a very current build- those pics are only a month or so old. The poster has threads open on a couple of "460" boards:
http://www.429-460.com/proven-builds-f4/460-four-cylinder-build-t5833.htm
and
http://www.460ford.com/forum/showthread.php?t=146801[/QUOTE]

Hey guys, love the thread. Unfortunately, we had a lot of head gasket problems with this motor. We tried the factory Mercruiser, Fel-Pro, and Cometic with no luck. The last time out the block cracked.

This winter we are going with another block and plan on welding the top up and machining the water holes back in it. The block is pretty weak at the top because it doesn't have any support and very little support between the cylinders and that is where the gaskets blew every time.

Steve Demos (Demos Cams) in Georgia reground the camshaft. I don't remember the numbers right off but it works great. It has power from 2000 to around 6500 which is exactly what we wanted. This car has a reverse rotation starter so the starter was not a problem. It also has a Bert transmission. We bought the motor from the owner because he said it wouldn't last and wouldn't perform with an Esslinger 4 cylinder. I drove this car one race and finished 2nd and I had never driven a circle track car in my life. I am anxious to get it back together and get it on the track next spring.

 

I strongly suggest you consider my theory about the 9/16" bolts being too "stiff", them being legacy sized from when the design was all iron. If you use inserts to take the head studs down to 1/2 inch, I think the problems would go away. Maybe we can go togther on a purchase of Timeserts for the block , ARP head studs, and maybe custom locating inserts to go around the studs for maximum location of the head

 

I believe this may be an excellent solution to the problem.
The way an engineer might tackle this, would be to specify reduced shank bolts or studs.
http://www.boltscience.com/pages/basics5.htm

 

This looks like what I will build for my Locost-7

 

If you guys ever get a chance to watch Musclecar Tv on Speed Channel on Saturday or Sunday mornings Check out this episode (Altered E-Go's Powerplant) (MC2008-18) In this episode they fab up totally home made engine mounts. they have good hints and the moounts look awesome when they are done... By the way today I put out the feelers to find a 488 or 170. I live in Southern Louisiana so I dont think it will be hard to find one someone is scrapping!! wish me luck.

 

It may be possible to get a functioning engine cheaply with a boat. I've seen running engines going for $1000 on ebay.
My engine cost me $2000 start to finish.
Check craigslist. Happy hunting.

 

I like the idea of necked-down bolts, but how would they go through a sleeve then? How about some dowel pins instead?

 

@Dennis G. What bellhousing are you using? Thanks

 

I found a 1979 Toyota corolla water pump at Rock Auto for 10 bucks... Close out but 10 Bucks

 

chevrolet: good fit and easy to get support on the hole or two that don't match. pix posted here earlier showing that.

In my case I used an aluminum one from a pickup as that fitted the pickup Saganaw 3 spd transmission that I started out with. Later I changed to a car saganaw 3 spd because of the excessively low 1st gear ratio.

I feel that with a high torque motor in a light car, using all 5 speeds wastes time shifting.

 

Locktite sells epoxy etc. and you can get their free sourcebook which has a lot of data on their stuff [it must be 100 pages]. From it I learned that some epoxy gets soft around 200 F other types are good hotter [ 260 and 300F] The key is to use it where it does not exceed its temp rating. Harbor freight technology has made it easy and cheap to remotely measure temps.

the quick setting types of epoxy go soft at lower temps

 

I used a bellohousing from an early 80's Jeep with a 2.5 GM sourced 4cyl, because I wanted to join to a T5 5spd manual transmision.
Avoid Camaro Firebird (85-94) if you are looking manual because they lean the trans over 15 degrees. Other good ones are Astro van with manual trans, and certain very late production s10's equipped with a 4.3V6 and 5 spd. If you go with a T5, you want one from a 94-95 5.0 or a 94-98 3.8 V6, as they have the correct longer input shaft.

Finding the bell is the first part, then you have to look for a bearing and lever combo that gets the right travel. Don't overlook the difficulty of that, if this is your first time with a custom combo like this.

 

If you click beside Dawford's name, on the Blue Arrow, it takes you back to the post the other fella had quoted, where Dawford did post a pic.

 

Thanks,it worked and with words & photo finally united, I understand what Dick did.

 

encswsm,

Quote from yesterday,

"Dick I love the stuff that you have done It is awesome and I ma totally convinced this is the Engine for me. Its Different but familiar enough to work on. I have one question though. You seem to use epoxy alot. How much do you trust Epoxy? I sure dont. We did have some stuff when I was in the Navy called Belzona that was indestructable but I still didnt trust it... "

You said that Belzona was indestructable but you still didn"t trust it...

Some people wear a belt and suspenders. Ha Ha.

I have used JB products for years and haven't ever had any failures.

My secret ?

#1. I follow the directions

#2. I don't use where it is possibly going to fail. By my judgement.

I clean the metal that I am welding.

I ruff up the area that I am welding to.

If I am butt welding a tab or ear onto something I try to reinforce the joint by cross drilling, tapping and screwing the piece after the initial weld has set.

I mix it well and wait for it to set up acording to the instructions.

I rely on the product to do what it is designed to do.

JB Weld has a good web sight.

JB should send me a case of their products for all of my free plugs.

I suspect that some of the negativeity about epoxies stems from improper use or the fact that it was used in conditions that it wasn't intended to be subjected to.

Airliners and space shuttles use epoxies as do auto manufacturers.

Dick

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Jb weld may be able to stand more heat than some other formulations.[ I looked up its locktite equivalent.] In general, avoid the quick setting types as they get soft at lower temps.

To my mind, the greatest weakness of epoxy is that its peel resistance is low. It is rigid enough so that on impact it begins to peel from the surface it has cured on, it continues to peel bit by bit and the joint fails.

On the other hand, a flexible stretchable adhesive holds differently. When it is pulled on, some of it stretches but all of the adhesive continues to hold the joint shut. The polyurethane caulk "Vulcum" is like this. Although it is weaker than epoxy, results in a stronger joint as all of the adhesive is holding.

Success in gluing depends on proper joint design. Industrially designed joints have the advantage of careful design, in normal use, they should not fail. They still fail when conditions change. The space shuttles tile adhesive failed as the designers did not anticipate things hitting the tiles.

 

Back on topic... (did we have a topic?...lol)

I got my cam back end of last week.
I like the application Lunati's guys put down, sounds like they have fun.

Got the crank stroked to 4.15" by using Ford 5.4L V8 rods, & now waiting on the somewhat rare .020" bearings to arrive for the mains.

Then pistons.
I've been trying to get to work an hour early and make the call east to talk with Diamond pistons. Left a message there a month ago, then I took off on a few days holidays, don't know if he ever returned my call.

Shotgun Hemi parts "no longer has an ETA" for the manifold I wanted. Cross that bridge when I come to it.
Kaase's got Individual Runner (stacks) manifolds going to the pattern makers and a Tunnel Ram just somewhere twixt foundry and machine shop, supposedly. I want to see a photo before I even consider cutting up either of those V8 Boss manifolds to do a 4cyl EFI. The Shotgun one works best, and I might just wait and see.
So I guess the displacement is decided at 4.40 bore x 4.15 stroke = 252ci or 4136cc

 

iadr,

Are you going to put your engine into your 544.

I have thought about the 544 as a perfect platform for a real sleeper.

At 2138 lbs with a mild 470 you get a power to weight ratio of about 9.25 lbs/hp.

With the engine your building you would get about 6-7 lbs/hp.

Would the unibody take that without modification ?

It looks like a subframe could be run under the body and existing front subframe and connected to the rear end mounts.

All of this is supposing your answer to my first question is YES.

The 544 looks so much like a 47-48 Ford that I think it would be great fun to build a hot rod out of one.

They aren't endangered enough not to allow a few to be modified in this manner.

Dick

 

I see Lunati figured lift at 1.5 rocker ratio. At 1.73 you will be over 0.600"

 

Phil, nope that's a typo on Lunati's part- the lifts shown are with the 1.75 boss rockers.

As far as the Volvo 544, the unibodes are decent. The back axle has issues even with a hot OE build up, as does the trans...
Not what I'd intended, though- initially it will go in a 4dr Sidekick as a daily driver, then if rust or an accident claims the Sidekick, I'm interested in building a tube frame fun car- kind of a cross between a lotus 7, a dune buggy and a IMSA/SCCA vintage race car. I made a clay model 22 years ago...

 

The fancy wheels on the 544 in the photo, make it look like a hotrod & then we'd anticipate a small block Chevy in it.

Your point that we'd not miss a few of them is good. It is sad to see surviving rare metal converted to speedsters and hotrods.
Perhaps a Yugo would be a good stealth vehicle. They've a big trunk that would make an engine compartment for a front wheel engine & drive train placed there.
Idar's suggested use of a sidekick is good.

 

His engine in the Sidekick will make a good sleeper.

The extra 500 lbs over the 544 will more than be made up for by the extra Hp he is going to get out of his super hot 470.

My idea of the 544 would include the mild but more reliable and economical 190 Hp 470 with an aluminum head and a couple of other modifications to produce 225-230 Hp.

I am 68 years old and even though I can still get it done in my shop I don't want to have any suprises out on the road.

I have enough engines and frames to build 5 or 6 cars all running similar running gear.

After I finish my first car and adjust my engineering on chassis, engine and transmission, I will cookie cutter the others.

The first one will be my Dawford Special Sports Runabout based on a Model A Ford chassis.
See my CAD picture below.

The second will be the closed cab 1930 extended cab Model A Pickup by Independent Technologies in N.C.

The third will be the Brookville extended RPU.

Lord Willing if I live long enough, I will decide how to build the others.

I still have the 1929 Tudor and the 1930 Woodie Mail Truck to modify, Chassis, Breaks, Drivelines and Engines.

My shop is still not finished. I have always built everything my self but find myself ready to hire some of it out.

Anyway iadr if you never put a 470 in your 544 I might do it someday my self.

It would be a real sleeper and they are about the only car of that type and vintage that I like the looks of.

Dick

 

Do any of you guys know of anyone that makes a roller cam for these engines? We had our stock cam reground by Steve Demos (Demos Cams) but I would really like to put a roller cam in it.

 

Dick, that is beautiful. Much like a MG TC. It is very much to my liking and has design features that would make it a pleasant car.

 

Thanks, dennis g

Drawing the picture and making it are two different things.

I have the bottom, top and fenders ready.

But I haven't decided whether to modify and connect some of the spare fiberglass body parts that I have or just make the body from scratch.

The best part of this project is that it is going to be different and light weight. About 1600-1700 lbs.

An added benefit to this design is that I can move the engine back 12-14" thus shifting 350 lbs of engine and 75 lbs of transmission that much more to the rear of the car.

The 8.8" limited slip 3.08 rear end and the V6 mustang WC T5 will provide traction and speed selection.

If I find that the gears are too high I also have a 3.55L rear end.

This is the lowese and lightest car I will make therefore I am using the highest rear end of the 2 on hand.

The Mustang 10.5" performance clutch will allow me to slip the clutch out of the hole untill I can get into the killer torque range between 2500 and 5500 rpm.

It remains to be seen how true to the CAD that I can make it.

I will use my eye for design as best I can to come up with a finished product a little less angular but with similar proportions.

My original idea was to design something similar to a mix between a 1937 Jaguar SS100 and a 1953 MGTD.

I've always wanted to hotrod a MGTD but they are too small for me to be comfortable in.

This one is built on a stock length Model A frame (103").

My youngest Son is helping on this one and that is what he wanted.

If I ever do another one it will be on an 8" stretched Model A Frame of 111".

It is a little hard to see the difference unless you switch back and forth between the 2 pictures below.

The body would sit in the same position. The stretch would be all in the hood.

That would make it look more like an early Jag or Mercedes roadster.

Either way the hood will have to be made special to fit.

The 64" tread width front and rear and 4 bar suspension should make for stable handling.

Dick
.