Hey guys how would I punch a 3/4 inch hole in 1/8 steel on the cheap, i've been drilling them but it takes awhile just looking for a better, cleaner way; anyone have any homemade tools or something to use like with a shop press......or is there any one in so. cal., south bay area with the capablities to louver, punch holes, dimple die and so on?
heres what you need on ebay, a shop press needs something to keep the punch and die lined up, unittools are pretty cheap used and keep there value. http://shop.ebay.com/?_from=R40&_trksid=p5197.m570.l1313&_nkw=unittool&_sacat=See-All-Categories
I'm thinking 1/8" is a little heavy for a punch you can use at home. Personally I use step-drill bits with great success, a 3/4" isn't too big. Irwin make the good ones --but Harbor Freight's are decent too for less $$ then an Irwin.
Buy a 3/4" bimetal hole saw, use a little cutting fluid and a slow speed setting on the drill. Seriously. Quick and cheap.
a unitool and your arbor press would work, but be time consuming and somewhat restrictive. then again, so is a drill.... interesting situation.
Possibly a punch for an electrical box, look under Greenlee tools. Although the initial tool is not cheap they last a lot longer than a drill and cut clean. www.blackbookoftools.com
I've never had great luck with hole saws and heavy metal. Plus they never last very long and holed don't look sharp (in metal). $9.99 Step Drill set from Harbor Freight, drills up to 3/4". Saved me a ton of time and money --a tool no rodder should be without:
I've had the same 3/4" hole saw for over 15 years and have drilled probably hundreds of holes with it in at least 1/8" thick steel. If you run them slow in a drill press and use a cutting lube they will work great and last. I have a set of those irwin step bits too, they also work well. I like to use them when a hand drill is the only option.
I'm going with a Greenlee set, punch, die and arbor. I figure maybe with a 1/2" impact wrench, you will pop them out fast. pdq67
The best whole saws I've been using is made by champion (other companies make similar items), but just google champion whole saw 3/4". Drill press helps also.
I've had good luck with Lennox as of late, I can't remember which brand my first kit I bought was, but they were painted red (very little of which is left on them now and they're still in regular use!) and are an electrician's set. Any that are considered a Bi-Metal should be fine. Any that aren't, well, they'll be dull in no time.
these things work great. they have them at lowes in the electical area http://cgi.ebay.com/Ideal-36-300-TK...809?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item43a3b57439
The problem I've had with a hole saw in thick metal is chip removal; there is no path for the chewed metal to get out of the way. I agree cutting fluid is crucial. I use a tooth brush to apply cutting oil to the groove being cut by the hole saw, and then use the brush to clear the metal out of the hole saw's teeth. Otherwise the teeth load up with metal and just get hot instead of cutting. I'm sure there are better ways but this is what I do for holes larger than my biggest (5/8") drill bit.
a buddy built a tube notcher and somebody gave him this tip on another forum, that supposedly works good: "a machinist flex tube with a nozzle to blow compressed air on the holesaw. This is the BEST trick for making holesaws last. I drilled 100 holes into 3/4" steel (grade 50) with the mag drill to prove a point to one of my employees with a 1.5" Milwaukee brand holesaw from home depot. Keep compressed air right on the teeth, and they will last a very very very long time."
I've used punch presses for over 30 years and I have two very nice ones now..It would take a VERY LARGE ton wise press to do 1/8" steel. I also have the Greenlee system of punches and would never even try to use them on that size steel. The Greenlees are good on 18ga stainless which is about 16ga mild steel and thats about all. Stick with a Drill press and bits and you will he happy.IMHO.Tom (Tired Old Man)
In our shop we use a step bit or a rota broach for that size of hole and in that thickness of material. The lenox hole saws a very good. I have a mag drill and the correct bits-not cheap but easy. If more than 50 holes invest in a anular cutter or a rota broach. Fritz
like double d said, use a roto broach or go with hi quality bi metal holesaw. Try the JMR, it has a finer and harder tooth. If you are using a regular drill arbor, a good trick is to pull the drill out of the center of the arbor and use it to drill the pilot hole. Go online to MSC or Mc Master Carr and order a short piece of hardened drill rod the same diameter as the drill. replace the drill with the rod. This way the hole saw will be the only thing cutting, instead of the arbor trying to egg out the pilot hole as well. Low RPM too.
heres a handy dandy hole punch tonnage calculator, there not asking for what style of punch you would be using, a crowned punch takes less pressure. http://www.conwaypress.com/calc_holePunch.html
I pull the hole saw down onto the metal to be cut until it scuffs its whatever-diamater" circle on the piece then i back it off. I then drill a hole just on the inside of the circle to act as a drain hole for the chips to accumulate in and fall through, then go back to your hole saw, again with cutting compound, drill press, super low speed, and good pressure.
A Blair Rotabroach or Holcutter will outlast any drill bit or holesaw. A friend with an Ironworker like "enjenjo" has pictured above is also a good thing to have.
1/2" inpack !!!!! Sound like a good way to destroy a good Greenlee punch and they are not cheap. IMHO Tom (Tired Old Man)
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