SBC Water neck tips ?

I am installing a new water neck on my manifold, any thought about gasket versus o-ring, I want to avoid RTV, I have had headaches with that when it comes to water and RTV, and I dont want to resurface my manifold, it has a tiny bit of pitting, any tricks I havent heard of, I have seen some cut from cork, and some cut from rubber thanks for the help!

 

make sure the new water neck is made of aluminum or iron. Most of the chrome ones (o ring or othewise) are made of zinc (pot metal) which moves around under stress/heat, and will leak eventually no matter what you do.

I'd just get an old cast iron one and paint it black....make sure the gasket surfaces are clean, use a bit of permatex aviation sealer on the gasket, and tighten the bolts carefully after making sure they're the right length, and the threads in the manifold are in good shape.

 

Throw out the bolts and put studs in the manifold, then use nylock nuts on top. I fought leaking Chevy goosenecks for years, but when done this way, they don't leak again.

 

I'll go for the cast iron too.

 

I like to use the Fel-Pro water neck gasket with the " O " ring built in.

Part # Q2022

Summit Racing and most dealers who carry Fel-Pro have them. Somewhat more expensive but they do not leak and they are re-usable.

I have this # Q2022 gasket on my my SBC equipped rides.

The iron water neck is also a GOOD idea.
.

 

Ive had good luck using the o-ring type waterneck with a stock gasket between the o-ring and the manifold.
Make sure your bolts dont bottom out in the intake.
x2 on the pot metal waternecks...they warp like crazy and almost always leak.

 

Can you suggest any good iron or aluminum ones?

 

If you get lucky the parts store may pull an iron one off the shelf when you ask for a replacement, I got one for an old 250 6cyl when the diecast one sprung a leak and new one was cast iron for $10 .
For gasket I use the paper ones with brush tac on the metal to fill imperfections and works fine, NO silicone and no china O rings

 

Good stock cast iron.Your local pick a part.
Good aluminum.http://www.csr-performance.com/shop/category.da/cooling-products/chevrolet

 

I second the use of studs. If you do use RTV; use a thin layer on both the goose neck and the manifold. Install the goose neck but don't tighten it down. Let it cure for a couple of days then tighten it down. It shouldn't leak.

 

i've had good luck with napa.they have a catalog with necks that point in any direction.get the right gasket and add permatex #2 plus the right bolts and that will work for you.

 

I usually just go thru the selection at the local parts store.

I also always chuck them up in a vice and file the sealing surface before installing - along with the intake. I haven't got one that didn't need to be dressed yet.

 

Use studs/nylock nuts, the good Fel-Pro gasket, and JB weld...if you're using a cheap zinc housing. Lay down a CHEAP paper gasket on the intake, smooth the JB weld onto the bottom of the housing, then install. When the JB Weld sets up, remove the housing, clean up the edges, and reinstall with the good Fel-Pro gasket...using minimal clamping. I don't care how bad the housing's warped, this will do the trick...

 

Take any chrome ones and throw them in the trash. Most of them get warped in the chroming process and even if they don't, like squirrel said, they will move around after installation, and leak.

 

I bought a cast iron, 45 degree, face forward water neck at Auto-Zone. The brand is Factory Air and part number is 84820.

 

Orilley's has the cast iron in their house brand also.

 

Went crazy trying to find this at Auto Zone...never did. Found it at Advance Auto... http://webcache.googleusercontent.com/search?q=cache:1QNauhNVo2cJ:shop.advanceautoparts.com/1/1/612979-water-outlet-by-factory-air-part-84820.html+%22Factory+Air+84820%22&cd=1&hl=en&ct=clnk&gl=us

 

I've found that those die-cast ones will eat through from the inside. They seem to be the anidode in the cooling system.

 

Cast iron from NAPA. No O-rings thankyou.

 

Exactly what he said.After fighting with the chrome one on my Mopar for months i finally went to a cheapo iron one and sealed perfect.I tried making my own gasket out of thicker material once,stripping the chrome on the matting surface ,flat filed the intake and bottom of the neck more than once ,even tried "right stuff".I threw it in the garbage and got an iron one after that .The chrome ones wont seal no matter what you do .I had one on a 350 once also that was the same leaking POS.It would seal while it was heated up ,but would weap while it was cooling off ...

 

I have tried O-Ring goose necks and found that unless you get one of exceptional quality (think $$$ here) they normally leak a little.

I just use a stock one and a paper gasket. The self glued gaskets are about all you can find any more over the counter. Take a little laquer thinner to the glue side and clean it off. I have never had a problem with RTV but you do need to let it dry before you run water over it. it won't hold a thing until it is cured.

One last thing studs were mentioned and that is a good idea, but if you must use bolts makes sure they are the right length. more often than not the ones you grab off the shelf will be a little bit too long. GM waterneck bolts are an odball length.

 

I really like the O-ring ones. Never had a leak.

 

88+chevy trucks have one that almost points straight up, $1 at the salvage yard.

 

Yes ... and they are re-usable.
The parts house near me gets almost 14 dollars for one but then again NO LEAKS ...

Fel-Pro makes good stuff.

 

This is a Ford cast iron thermostat housing that I powder coated to match the powder coated intake. I always think painted iron housings on aluminum intakes look funny but that's just me.

 

I tried almost everything to get one of those chrome ones to stop leaking (gasket, silicone, o-ring or combo) and finally solved my problem by sandblasting the gasket surface of the neck. The chrome was just too "slippery" and allowed the neck to leak.

 

The billet ones at jegs/summit are a little more than i'd like to pay. i know we mentioned Factory aire #84820, but what are some other good OEM type replacement brands? Who makes the napa brand?

Also does gm still make sell these?

i need one that points to the left front, so # 84842 if factory aire.

 

Yea, it's an old thread..... SUE ME! Someone posted an O'Reilly's auto parts number for a SBC water neck on another thread. I kept that number in my pocket for weeks and today I figured, what the hell and got one. It's a very nice aluminum rough casting that's cool in it's simplicity and it comes with a plain gasket. Part# 84820. Price, $10.99

When I do my seasonal coolant change, THIS is going in.

 

A picture would be nice here, Fred.

 

fred, could you hold it up to the computer so we can see it?