TECH...well sorta... JAG IFS into mid fifties F100

Chev pattern, Ford size lugs (1/2")

 

Yes ... I did find it weird that the ( British ) Jaguar uses the 5 on 4.75 Chevrolet wheel pattern along with the standard Ford SAE 1/2-20 thread wheel studs.

I pulled 85 XJ6 front end last week for a new project.

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Great post. I did this conversion about 8 years ago to a 50 F1 pickup. Worked really well. Since done the same to my 50 Chevy.

 

I'm happy with the Jag front, but I would recommend turning the hubs down a bit while you have the front apart. The bolt pattern is GM, but you need wheels with a large center hole. All the front end rebuild parts were cheap, but the rack can be expensive.

 

I am going to do some measuring on my 63 D100 Dodge. Has anyone tried this swap?

 

Hi guys. I am resurrecting this old thread because its pretty much the only detailed info I have been ableto find about Jag IFS installs, which it now appears my '46 Chevy has in addition to the IRS. I didn't recognize my front cross memeber and thought it might be a hack job because the cross member was a straight weld in job.

Problem? I bought my truck and it has no upper shock mounts in it - DOH! How are you Oz guys doing it? Any help with this? Pictures (oh please, oh please!)

All help appreciated and YES, I'm gonna go to ozrodders.com and poke around.

 

Shockmount fabricated for my F-1. The angle can be either welded or bolted to the frame rail. In my case it neatly fits in the original shock mount cutout in the inner fender panels. Note that the F-1 frame rails are pinched in 2 inches in the engine bay (32 inches outside measurement compared to 34" on the F100). Installation is easier on the f-1 than on the F100.

 

Your pic is not showing up but it can be found here.

http://www.ford-trucks.com/user_gallery/tmp/149/149577.520.390

 

I had saved this information from the Rodder's Round Table several years ago, perhaps it is useful to anyone planning this converstion. At one time, I had considered doing it to my 67 mustang, but I didn't have the tools.

I believe these measurements are from an Aussie street rod magazine. First numbers are mm, the second I transcribed into inches:

Mk 1, 11 58-59
F - 1422 - 56.88"
R - 1381 - 55.24"

Mk X 62-67
F - 1498 - 59.92"
R - 1498 - 59.92"

S type 64-68
F - 1428 - 57.12"
R - 1403 - 56.12"

XJ6 69-73
F - 1479 - 59.16"
R - 1506 - 60.24"

E type, E type Series II
F - 1295 - 51.8"
R - 1295 - 51.8"

E type Series III 72-73
F - 1403 - 56.12"
R - 1403 - 56.12"

XJ6 Series II 74-82
F - 1505 - 60.2"
R - 1520 - 60.8"

80's vintage XJ: 59.5 hub to hub, 28.5 between mounts (front and rear). Rear mounts are 2" behind the axle centerline, and the front mounts are 16" in front of the axle centerline. It's 33" between the towers at the frame level (where the towers meet the crossmember).

 

I was going to mention your car...

 

I fitted a Jag IFS to my 56 F100 in 1996, Its best mounted on the original Jag rubber mounts which is also easier, My truck has covered over 90,000 miles and been great and handles like a sportscar.

 

This is a great thread. Now over to CL to find a Jag for the F-1.

 

That thing looks very robust. I like it, thx for posting

 

Anyone know if this would work for a 40's K/KB series International Harvester truck? I bolted in a 51' Ford F1 axle in my truck, a 46' K3 Harvester. I want to run a dropped axle with a disc conversion on it. Problem is the steering. I don't want bumpsteer. Not sure how to do the steering and can't afford a Mustang II setup.
Just not sure if the Jag is the way to go either.

 

I'll be lookin' for a jag frontend myself. Have heard nothing but good things about this swap.

 

Can someone post pictures of the front and rear rubber mounts on the Jag clip and also tell me the measurements of them? I want to see if they will sit under my frame rails. I have a 46 International K3 (1 Ton). Right over the axle, the frame measures: 29 3/4" outside to outside
25 1/16" inside to inside.
Frame tapers in towards the nose.
Anyone???

 

Give me some time, I think I have them somewhere.

 

Hey, are you on IHC as well? Think you just posted pictures in my thread.

 

Yep.

 

i sure like reading these Jag frontend swap threads...

 

Spicer part #s?

 

Well havi, think I may have found my direction. Assuming I can find one for cheap. Also need to know the best years and the model Jag to start hunting for. Are they called series II and series III?

 

They are called "XJ". XJ6, XJ12, XJS, XJ4.2, XJ5.3 (where 4.2 and 5.3 indicate engine size in litres) Just stay clear of XJ40 series from ~1987 up.

This is a Series 1. These ran from 1968 to 1973. The front end is good, but the 6 cylinder version has solid disks and 3 piston callipers. The V12 version is "the same" as series 2.


This is a series 2. These ran from 1973 to 1979. Note that the front bumper is higher, US models have rubber bits on the bumpers too. All front ends are good. Vented disks and 4 piston callipers.
( If you happen to find a 2 door version of this series don't cut it up, restorers will pay $$$ for them )


This is a series 3. These ran from 1979 to 1987 as a 6 cylinder car and up to 1992 as a V12. Actually a very different car to a series 2, but looks very similar. Easiest way to tell them apart is by the lack of a front quarter window. All front ends are good, "same as" series 2.


This is an XJS. They ran from 1976 to 1997. All front ends are good. "Same as" series 2 or 3.


This is an XJ40. They ran from 1987 to 1994. Totally different front end. To me they look like they would work, but I've never seen it done. Nothing good will come of one. Stay well clear


Note: where I write "same" I mean functionally close enough, there are numerous detail differences that really don't matter to a hotrodder.

 

Anybody used one in a falcon???

 

Just read all the posts again but didn't find it. Does anyone know the measurements of the Jag mounts? I'm curious if they will fall right under my frame rails. Thought I read the front and rear mounts are 28.5" apart. I want to know the inside to inside/outside to outside for the front and rear mounts.

 

To be captain obvious but in hopes of helping out any newbie who does not yet know... the IFS from a HK holden is fitted the same way and is an exceptional choice especially for Chev's for the bolt pattern, as you can fit a HQ stub straight up and bolt on any holden rim from HQ to current depending on your offset (commodore offsets tend to foul and need to be reset at a machine shop for HQ offsets, a cost of $77 last time i had one done).

HK fronts are getting on the expensive side nowdays but you can still find a bargain, i pulled one off ebay a guy spelled incorrectly in his listing on ebay and i found by accident for au$30.

HT's and so on (pre HQ) are the same front end essentially and will all work the same but if you can find the HK then this is by far the #1 choice of holden IFS as these have brass ball joints that are very hard wearing.

i am sure just about everyone in australia knows this information but if it helps anyone who did not then thats why i posted it
cheers.

 

Good info here, Todd is right about the XJ40, the use a different style of arm setup. They can be used but not as easy or as pleasant on the eye.

I've done something like 40-45 of these installs into 50's & 60's trucks etc etc and you won't find a better setup, you will get amazing brakes from the jag 4 pot calipers, road holding and a ride far exceeding any other front clip arrangement, If you get a chance to drive a jag you will very soon realise that jag spent millions developing the suspension & steering.

Its also quite important to also use the front anti roll bar as this has been designed to compliment the rest of the frontend.

The best way to mount them is by using the original jag subframe mounts, the ones at the front are huge round ones and the rear mounts are more flat with studs. I first establish the wheelbase and vehicle height required and mark the frame and frontend accordingly, I like to mount the front mounts first as it enables you to then swing the subframe up into place to set the crossmember level to the horizontal then make up the required brackets for the rear.

The subframes are not very thick metal so its important to inspect the one you get as they can suffer from rust although this isn't impossible to sort fairly easily.

The steering rack needs a pump suitable for a rack also, its no good hooking it up to a steering box pump as it won't be long before its leaking.

If you set the subframe up as it would be in a jag in relation the the ground it will all work pefectly so therefore you need to take into account any rake your car may have.

hope this helps.

 

I can't remember the actual measurements but they won't be far away on your truck, On the F100 frame they fall right beneath the frame rails so its a very easy job to make up the mounts.
I did have some pics, Will try and find them for you and post.

 

The jag rubber mounts fall under the centerlines on my F-1 Ford truck frame rails. The outside dimension on the frame rails is 32 inches. I would estimate that the rear rubber mounts are a couple of inches behind the axle centerline. (too much snow between the computer and the jag at this time). The front mounts are the same width. You may be a better candidate for a weld in under the frame rails, many do this. Pix in the gallery of my bolt in installation: http://www.ford-trucks.com/user_gallery/displayalbum.php?userid=268206&albumid=21703

 

There's TONS of info here on the HAMB about mounting a jag IFS/IRS. Use the search button, and you will be reading for days!

Here's ZMAN's original post: http://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum/showthread.php?t=24785
It's got lots of good pics and is well narrated. Very usefull info there.

Sorry I cant help with your spacific question, but if your serious about the swap, start reading. I'm sure someone has already answered in one of the posts.