>>An Idiot's Guide To....Multiple Carburation!!! (Weiand WC4D 4x2)<<

Oops, old age just set in, forgot to include some pix of these 4x2 setups with progressive linkage.

 

****... What do you suggest for plugging the idle circuits? Is there a good way to do it in a "less permanent" manner in the event that you would want to open them back up for another application?

 

And, don't forget the one's who weren't experts, just three weeks ago...

 

Thanks ****ster!!! I really want to send you my business because I know you are the guru. I appreciate you chiming in on the subject and including some pics. If I can run progressive and you've done it, I'd like to since this car is not going to be and all out runner. More day to day driving and I'd like it to be a smooth operator.

I'm going to need some pics of the support plates on the inboard carbies like Josh made recently. I am not exactly certain what's going on there.

 

I withdraw my hat from this ring..The wolves are starting to growl..Only been doing this three weeks...
LOL...
Duane..

 

I'm amazed at how well my 4x2 works. They're jetted down to 48's. Straight linkage. I could definitely benefit from a shaft plate because when I let off the gas the inside carbs with the extensions dont close all the way, it causes the idle to be about 400 rpm too high. It goes away when i touch it with my finger. Other than that it runs really well throught the range, it accelerates good and really likes WOT. Oh and ****ster hooked me up on what I need.

 

excellent thread per usual, JJ!

hopefully it doesnt get squabbled up with "extra issues"

 

Thanks buddy, I hope not either. I'm just trying to pool all of our information together so I can make an accurate decision about which direction I'd like to go. Honestly if I could fly ****ster out to help me learn this whole process using the 94's and such I would. I've never heard any issues with his setups and have only heard great responses. I'll definitely be looking to him as well as everyone on this subject. In fact I got a PM from a HAMB member about coating the carb bodies and getting new zinc coated screws this evening. There's definitely a lot of help coming from all directions and I appreciate it all.

Dreddy, That engine looks great!

 

you should post that info here too! I want to know where I can get new screws.....you know....for when it's my turn to go carb crazy....

 

I'll ask if he does rat rod carbs too Hitchhiker!

At first it looked like I was going to go with Alodine 1201 to coat the carbs as many people recommended it here on the HAMB. That gives a slight yellow tinge to the body depending how long you dip it. Now what this particular HAMB member said was that was not a correct color as far as he was concerned or at the very least was not the route that he takes. So he bead blasts them, scrubs them down with Phos. Acid and then uses a special finish on them (he knows exactly what mixture it is) to give the original blue type coating back. I've seen his work and it's nothing short of amazing so I am planning on sending 4 of my carbs out to get that treatment done very soon. When I get them back, I'll end up regasketing them with kits that have the leather Accelerator Pump's and really nice Power valves that do not leak. From there I can start laying out the linkage and fuel lines as well as mounting the fuel log to the intake.

As far as the screws go I can set you up with his once I sort some stuff out. He can get all of those screw for you.

I hope to show a step by step process on how I'm going to do this so some of it might be boring but some of it might teach old dogs new tricks. Stoked!

 

Not offended as I am no pro. I learned what I know by trial and error. Always happy to learn something new. Thanks for more education.

I stand corrected, the carbs were Rochesters not carters on the 348m sorry for the confusion.

 

*walks in late*

Hey dudes, whats up in here....holy Toledo, I better bookmark this one!

 

**** it, just go tune port

 

JJ, I, too, thank you for this thread! I'll be using a ton of this info for my 6x2 on my 283.

I've got some 97 bodies (cores) if you still need them. I'm going 94's, so we could work out something. Lemme know.......

SDG

 

I owe an apology to whomever took my statement last evening to heart. It was just an old guy spouting off after seeing so many unrealistic comments here. I woke up this morning with a new perspective. I know allyall that I have offended are just trying to help, so I will just **** up the things I don't aggree with a try to be a bit more tackful with my approach.

 

I do have one on my IROC that I could use. But that thing is being prepped for Pinks All Out so I just can't bring myself to do it.

As long as you have an opinion that's all I can ask for ****ster!

 

Jeffy Cakes... I told you the wrong stuff. The Alodine 1201 will give a darker green sheen. The 1001 will give an orange-ish sheen to RAW aluminum, but since the early Ford carbs are not made of pure aluminum they actually tend to turn the carb bodies a very slight green color. Hard to even see the color. It mostly turns out colorless after dipping a raw carb body in Alodine 1001. Not sure of the longevity of this coating, though.

Examples...

 

I'll snap a few more close up pics tonight of the support bar for ya Jeffy.....

 

Thanks SinisterCustom!!! I'd appreciate that!!!


Let me as you guys this, how can I make the linkage work with the stock '35 Throttle linkage on the firewall. It's on the p***enger side. Do I just make the linkage with an arm that reaches over to that side in back of the intake?

 

Hay buddy looks like you are on your way to becomming the Northland's new induction guru. Albeit not by choice.

My personal preference is to centers over outers. But I am ***umeing that it is just a personal preferance. The Ol' Man always ran centers primary and outers secundaries so I guess that is where I got it. No one ever gave me any reason that it was the best setup its just what I know. I would also lean towards progressive. I tryed both ways on the multi setup on the old Vic when i was a kid and the progressive gave me a better hole shot and lower ETs. I've been running that way ever since (about 40 years).

As for carbs I usually lean towards small bore carbs if I have a choice. You'll get a better signal from them and your 283 just isn't going to take a deep enough breath to demand the bigger bore carb. Besides they sound a lot better.

As for linkage I just happen to have an EELCO 4x2 setup never been out of the bubble wrap. Its not NOS its the later repop but it is good stuff and ready to bolt up. Throttle shaft extensions and all. I was going to cut it up to make a 2x4 setup out of it but we can no doubt work something out. Looks like you need it more than I do.

Drop me a note.

[disclaimer this is a Jeffery James offer only]

Glad to see you tackling it. Viking Induction that's where I'll be sending all my stuff from here on out.

Good luck keep me posted.

 

To clean mine I dunk em in carb clean first and lem em soak. After that I put the bodies in a gl*** bead cabinet and use walnut shells. They will not hurt the soft bodys and gets all the crud and junk out of a 70 year old carb that the carb clean will not. After that, I blow through ALL the p***age ways to make sure every piece of wallnut shell is out. Finally, on the bodys and tops I use my kitchen sink and an SOS pad and softy scrum em. This brings out the natural aluminum and gives them the slightest dull shine. Dry em off and they are ready to go.

Heres a couple I did. Not sure if this meathod is worth a **** to you but it works for me.

 

Those look really good dude and I like your gl***ware in the back too!

 

On the Alodine coating, Does anyone know if you can brush apply to even out the coloring?

I got these back from my re-builder and I am unhappy with the different colors on the bases and tops. I am hoping that you can brush on so I don't have to start over with them.

 

Here's my take on colorizing and screws.

I've used Alodine before and have had good results. I've used the Alodine (forget the number) made for treating aluminum and the stronger you mix it and longer you leave the parts in, the darker they will become. I start with a freshly bead blasted carb body and usually dunk in a weak mix for 30 seconds. Gives a gray-green tint. Rinse and dry for the final look. Do it again if you want more. Or blast it again lightly to start over.

As for the screws, don't pay somebody big bucks for a special "set". Go to McMaster-Carr and buy fillister head machine screws in the proper sizes and you will get a lifetime supply for the same cost. They sell zinc plated as well as stainless. Get your new lock washers at the same time.

But, do call up Uncle Max for the rebuild parts for your 97's.

 

You can brush the stuff on. The idea is to keep it wet and not allow it to dry on the body. However, I can't imagine you're going to get a good consistent finish with a brush unless you take it into outer space where there is no gravity. The tops are super easy to pull off. Just pull them off. Pull off the float and what not. Clean and dip 'em, and regasket.

 

Exactly!!! I think you are the one that actually turned me on to the Alodine. And the screws can ALL be had at McMaster Carr. I think there's one bizarre #12-24 that is used to screw the base to the body (on a 94), but otherwise nothing out of the ordinary. They should have just about any finish you need.

 

If I end up getting some 97's I'm definitely calling Uncle Max for the parts. I've heard nothing but good stuff about him as well concerning 97's.

JrBlack30, those look like they were brush painted in the first place with them being so inconsistent. I'd take the day and un***embled them so they can be properly dunked. I for one am going to go with the Chromate finish as I like the look of the blue tinge rather then the green.

 

Don't remember how this finish happened, it was a few years ago. Quite by accident, but I liked it. Wish I could replicate it.

 

This is turning into one of those threads where I re-read it every time a new post shows up. Great post JJ.

 

Those 97s look good Chris!