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>>An Idiot's Guide To....Multiple Carburation!!! (Weiand WC4D 4x2)<<

Discussion in 'The Hokey Ass Message Board' started by JeffreyJames, Dec 26, 2010.

  1. Chris
    Joined: Jan 5, 2005
    Posts: 14,500

    Chris
    Member

    I also agree on Unka Max for carb parts, last couple pairs I have done he supplied me with knowledge and the parts ;)
     
  2. 1952henry
    Joined: Jan 8, 2006
    Posts: 1,586

    1952henry
    Member

  3. JeffreyJames
    Joined: Jun 13, 2007
    Posts: 16,626

    JeffreyJames
    Member
    from SUGAR CITY

    There's a Berserker Barrage of info being added every couple hours. There's definitely a lot of info to read through and I like the difference in opinion too. There's many way to skin a cat (not that anyone would actually do that) and this is evidence of it. I feel a lot more confident about ***embling this intake now that there's so much info and support.
     
  4. JeffreyJames
    Joined: Jun 13, 2007
    Posts: 16,626

    JeffreyJames
    Member
    from SUGAR CITY

    And so my link to Chromate finish has been revealed. 1952henry knows his stuff and produces a beautiful finish to his carbs. Whether I go 97's or 94's he's getting them to coat them in his special soup!
     
  5. Chris
    Joined: Jan 5, 2005
    Posts: 14,500

    Chris
    Member



    Thanks dude, Jamie made that plate!
     
  6. SinisterCustom
    Joined: Feb 18, 2004
    Posts: 8,277

    SinisterCustom
    Member

    I kinda prefer my 97's with fuel stained patina....is that wrong??? haha...
    Although I'm very tempted by the new chrome 97's.....
     
  7. scootermcrad
    Joined: Sep 20, 2005
    Posts: 12,383

    scootermcrad
    Member

    By the way! I mentioned a few places earlier that carry linkage and parts for early carbs. For some reason I always forget that ****ster carries ALL that stuff and keeps most if not ALL of that stuff in stock! www.****shotrodplace.com. They're not all listed on his site, so you might just have to pick up the phone or shoot him a message/email, but he's got a ton of tuning parts for early Ford carbs as well as replacement pieces themselves.

    Just wanted to add that...
     
  8. JeffreyJames
    Joined: Jun 13, 2007
    Posts: 16,626

    JeffreyJames
    Member
    from SUGAR CITY

  9. dickster27
    Joined: Feb 28, 2004
    Posts: 3,212

    dickster27
    Member
    from Texas

    Thanks for the plug guys, I also carry a complete line of replacement and rebuilding parts and pieces for the Strombergs as well as the 2G's.
     
  10. Hitchhiker
    Joined: May 1, 2008
    Posts: 8,507

    Hitchhiker
    Member

    After looking at core carbs for sale over the last day...

    ......It seems like there are lots of different models of Holley 94 and Stromberg 97 carbs. What cores should someone be looking for? Does it matter? Should they all just match if used on the same intake?

    thanks
     
  11. 61cad
    Joined: Oct 28, 2005
    Posts: 4,177

    61cad
    Member

    Research rebuilding 97's and 94's on some older threads and get comfortable with the carb you would like to run. I was scared to death rebuilding a 97 for the first time. After reading a thread by Flathead Yougin (sp) It all fell into place.

    The problem I had with cores was identifying a "complete core". And knowing which had broken parts.

    If you have a complete core with all parts moving, not messing or broken, then rebuilding is a SNAP!

    Good Luck

    Jay
     
  12. scootermcrad
    Joined: Sep 20, 2005
    Posts: 12,383

    scootermcrad
    Member

    Couldn't tell ya' much about the Stromberg breed, but I believe there are 17 different versions of the Holley 94 type carbs. I believe they first showed up in 1938 as Chandler Grove and were used on Y-blocks in the early 50's. There was a couple versions that had much larger venturis and some that were even rumored to flow as much as like 320 cfm, or something. Not sure how true that is, but a lot of those larger "94-based" carbs actually had larger bodies and were difficult to fit on multi-carb manifolds. (ask JJ Mack about his 4x2).

    Check out Dreddybear's Holley 94 threads and you'll find out a TON more than can ever be listed in one reply. Link! ---> http://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum/group.php?groupid=271

    And getting right to the point...

    http://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum/group.php?do=discuss&group=&discussionid=289
     
  13. SinisterCustom
    Joined: Feb 18, 2004
    Posts: 8,277

    SinisterCustom
    Member

    Close-ups for ya holmes....

    You can see that the bar I made slides over the throttle shaft "collars" of two carbs, small setscrews hold it on. Not really tight, just snug with some Loc***e. Have this mounted along with the extensions before tightening. Lock down the bar then tighten the extensions. You may have to loosen and tighten the extension set screws a few times to get them sitting "square" on the carb shaft and moving freely within the bar...if that makes sense....

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]

    My "outer" carbs are the primaries, only because with the linkage that I had it was easier to setup....
     
  14. alchemy
    Joined: Sep 27, 2002
    Posts: 22,684

    alchemy
    Member


    Be careful! A complete 97 may have been pieced together or re***embled from many different parts in it's past life. There are many variations of the Stromberg that can bite you. I thought they were easier to understand than the 94's (and truth be told they are) but you need to pay attention to all those little hole sizes, count how many holes there are, and watch for the pesky hidden p***ages. Make sure all your carb's parts match EXACTLY. (right Uncle Max, he said sheepishly?)
     
  15. 61cad
    Joined: Oct 28, 2005
    Posts: 4,177

    61cad
    Member

    and join the Stromberg 97 group. Tons of info posted!
     
  16. 1952henry
    Joined: Jan 8, 2006
    Posts: 1,586

    1952henry
    Member

    Some AA1s have the vacuum p***age in the back, not a problem, that can be plugged. Some AA1s will have the high lift nozzle bars, ( right triangle shaped), most have the older (delta shaped). You should make sure they all match. Watch the back, try to get all that say 94, or 1 or 1/1/16 or 1/1/8. Probably not good to mix and match those. Make sure the bases all match in diameter as well. No sense making extra trouble for yourself. The model numbers on the fuel bowl don't really matter, just for looks.

    There were some bigger AA1s used on IHC and GMC big truck six cylinders. These had cast iron airhorns in addition to the cast iron base. Not sure of the CFM rating, though.
     
  17. uncle max
    Joined: Jan 19, 2006
    Posts: 908

    uncle max
    ALLIANCE MEMBER

    Duane threw his hat in and I'll do the same and let this thread run it's course. Afterwhich, I'll wait for the movie.
    In the meantime, I'm here if anyone needs parts or sympathy. :D
     
  18. 33_chevy
    Joined: Aug 30, 2008
    Posts: 370

    33_chevy
    Member
    from TX

  19. JAWS
    Joined: Jul 22, 2005
    Posts: 1,848

    JAWS
    Member


    No offense I promise. Please do tell your opinions. I'm not to old to learn.:D
     
  20. JeffreyJames
    Joined: Jun 13, 2007
    Posts: 16,626

    JeffreyJames
    Member
    from SUGAR CITY

    I for one never think there's too many ****s stirring the pot...wait that's not right.... I mean too many balls in the face....**** that's not right either!!!!

    What I am trying to say is that all opinions are welcome and the reader can take direction that makes sense for him. I think the different ways of doing this only helps the thread.
     
  21. troylee
    Joined: Jul 10, 2007
    Posts: 689

    troylee
    Member

    This thread is great. I am on the fence 94 over 97. as I have a 6 carb set up for a ponco and this 4 carb set up for my small block. I have 6 97 and 3 94 to spread out over the 2 intakes. I will have to give ****ster a shout for sure. I use a spray on product from Tec-line coatings that I really like. I have used the gold and the clear.
     

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  22. SinisterCustom
    Joined: Feb 18, 2004
    Posts: 8,277

    SinisterCustom
    Member


    Forgot to mention....a Uni-sync will do you no good....not with 97's that is. Each carb at idle is pulling alot of vacuum, and when you set the tool over the carb it just chokes it, may even kill the engine....and opening the "door" on the Uni-sync far enough to not affect idle will be too far to allow the vacuum "ball" to float....
    I have the tool....works great for setting up dual carbs on VW's and motorcycles....haha...
     
  23. JeffreyJames
    Joined: Jun 13, 2007
    Posts: 16,626

    JeffreyJames
    Member
    from SUGAR CITY

    Thanks SinisterCustom!!! Those pics of the linkage plate really helped. I know exactly what's going on now. And thanks for the heads up on the tool too. I appreciate it.

    Will the Uni-Sync work on 94's?
     
  24. SinisterCustom
    Joined: Feb 18, 2004
    Posts: 8,277

    SinisterCustom
    Member

    Not sure....I would tend to think you'd have the same issue, as throttle blades would be cracked @ the same amount at idle regardless of which carb is used....
    Also, I lightly sanded the edge of the throttle plates on the secondary carbs (just the edge that touches body), to keep them from sticking in the bores, as "most" of the time they are held closed....
     
  25. Baron
    Joined: Aug 13, 2004
    Posts: 3,672

    Baron
    Member

    I ran this 4 carb set up on my old 32. I ran this set up for a number of years. One thing I learned running multiple carbs is that if you want to it run good,and be completly street-a-ble is to install an MSD box. Best money I ever spent, and I have been running them in almost all my cars ever since . Hard to burn up all that gas (1000 cfm with the 4 Rochesters) with a small block Chevy and not foul spark plugs. The MSD cured that.:)
    [​IMG]
     
  26. 1952henry
    Joined: Jan 8, 2006
    Posts: 1,586

    1952henry
    Member

  27. JeffreyJames
    Joined: Jun 13, 2007
    Posts: 16,626

    JeffreyJames
    Member
    from SUGAR CITY

    If I do choose to go with the 94's on this particular Weiand 4x2 intake with my particular engine, where do I start with Jets and PV's? as really into finding some Strombergs for this intake but then the comment about finding complete ones came up and the fact that there were so many models. I also go a PM from a HAMB member about how he rebuilt his strombergs and they ran but it fumbled when gunned and sometimes shut off at a stop light. Well this particular member sent his carbs off to Uncle Max where he was able to find 12 small issues with the rebuilds the HAMB member did. Nothing too obvious but enough that it caused those issues. Uncle Max fixed the issue and had them back in no time at all!

    That makes me a bit nervous. I rebuilt a 94 on my '52 and for the first cab rebuild it ran great and never leaked. So I have limited experience with 94's where I have none with the 97's.

    ****ster, I know you said that you CAN run progressive but do you recommend it over striaght?
     
  28. SinisterCustom
    Joined: Feb 18, 2004
    Posts: 8,277

    SinisterCustom
    Member

    PV's...ya either gotta block a couple off or install very low opening one's, (at least in the primary carbs.). And common Holley pv's need modified to work in the old 94's...
    So if your engine pulls 12" of vacuum, you'd want yer PV's to supply fuel at @ 1/2 that, which is 6, so with 4 carbs, each pv needs to be a 1.5 rating....Otherwise, engine vacuum will not pull them closed and you'll run way rich....
    PV's are for supplying extra fuel during WOT conditions.....90% of the time they are closed by engine vacuum.
    Now ya see why 97's are easier to setup in multicarb setups....
     
  29. scootermcrad
    Joined: Sep 20, 2005
    Posts: 12,383

    scootermcrad
    Member

    Buy the correct PV's from any of the places listed in this thread if you decide to go 94's. There are a mul***ude of issues with trying to make the newer ones work. Been there, done that. Buying the correct ones is SOOOO much easier!

    Yesterday I talked with an extremely knowledgeable carb guy (who's built a TON of carb set ups and is on this thread and may speak up if he wishes) about progressive set-ups. He has a rule of thumb for selecting main jets that says use jets in your secondary carbs that are about .003" smaller than the primaries. Example: If you use .047" jets in your primary carbs, use .044" jets for your secondary carbs. Fuel requirements will depend on engine size which will obviously be directly proportional to your flow needs on the carbies. For the progressive setup I'm building right now, I'm going to personally start out using that theory. I'll be running 4.5 PV's in my primary carbs and PV plugs in the secondary. I'm also going to JB Weld the idle circuits on the paths of the secondaries. I'm ALSO going to leave a choke on ONE of the primary carbs.

    Remember, you can open up jet sizes as needed. Just takes some really friggin' small drill bits.

    I'm still new to this myself, so take it for what it's worth.
     
    Last edited: Dec 29, 2010

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