Looking for a bit of input on the layout of my 32 chassis that will be built to go under my 28 Tudor. Here is a rundown of the chassis components that I have and am planning to run. Nothing is built yet and we are going to start in a week or so, but I am new to setting up a Highboy. 1932 Ford frame rails and boxing plates (Dearborn with C notches) Model A front crossmember 1932 Ford Gas Tank Split wishbones (37 Ford) +/- 40 4" drop I Beam axle Reverse eye Model A front spring 1-1/2" shackles, perches, and lower shock mounts F1 pickup upper shock mounts 1948-52 Ford F1 steering column and box 1967 Merc Cougar 9" hsg (59.5 drum to drum) Reverse eye 37-41 front spring for rear (2") +/- 39 eye to eye 1936 Ford rear Radius Rods Stock 1932 Ford rear crossmember 16x4 with 600-16 front 16x6 with 750-16 rear I am going to wait and cut down the split wishbones and radius rods until the chassis is built so that I can get the layout correct. Don't know if the '32 rear Xmbr is going to make the back sit too high. The spring is pretty flat and fits into the Xmbr nicely. The front is pretty much clear, but the rear has me a little bugged. I am going to be working off the blueprint in the back of the Wescott catalog. Does anybody see any potential problems? Just trying to get a good feel before we start clamping stuff down and welding it up. Thanks, Brock
Does that spring really fit in the '32 crossmember? The '32 spring has a curve in it (looking at it from above) and the crossmembers have the same curve. Sounds like a good plan. Although I think the 6.00-16's might be a little wide for a 4" rim, maybe run a 4.5" in front and a 4.5 or 5" in the rear. In fact I think the 6.00 firestones are a little wider than the 7.50's
I was surprised that it fit too, but it is a 2" spring. If you look down on it is straight. Here is a picture of the basic mock up I did. I left about 1-1/2" between the spring hanger and spring eye for the shackle. Not the best picture but you get the basic idea. As for the tires, my 49 has 16x4 with 600-16 on all corners. I like the look. They actually fit really nice.
List looks like all the right parts. How well is the 32 tank going to work with the A sedan body? Clark
That is what I wanna know . It looks like it will be close. The curve of the tank is pretty close to the body curve. I have seen A coupes with 32 tanks, but not a Sedan. I may have to rework the lower part of the body, don't know. How similar is the back panel on a 32 Sedan vs. an A??? I'll have to look for a picture. Didn't Rouge have a 32 highboy sedan a few years back?
We're just finishing up a '30 sedan at the shop with a deuce tank. We did quite a bit of fabrication for it. We got the frame horns from Vintique, I think. Had to make mounts from the TCI frame. Lets see if I can get some pics up here....
Thanks for the pictures! Gives me a better idea of what it will look like. I was thinking that I might have to move the tank down some to make it work. Little different as that is an A frame, and mine is a 32. The curve of the tank to body looks pretty good though. That is almost what I envisioned. This might just work after all. Thanks again.
that `32 tank on that `30 sedan just sticks out too far...the rear frame rails need to be shortened and the tank tucked in....is that at Rogers rod and custom?
Hi Brock, list sounds good to me too. how do you plan on attaching the front of the rear wishbones? is this getting the Cad or the Olds motor? what transmission? what pedals? Buick drums and Lincoln? backing plates on what spindles? folks, this guy works for Art Morrison, so you can bet the end product will be well engineered. Paul
That tank looks a little low and sticks out a little too much for me. It will probably look OK on that car with fenders but without fenders it looks like a loaded diaper. Try getting rid of the strip at the bottom of the body and sucking the tank in as close to the rear as possible. Clark
Take a look at a picture of a SoCal frame. The '32 crossmember won't work for you. A piece of tubing will be all you'll need. I've not seen anyone use that particular steering in an A. Are you planning to pinch the frame to fit the "29 body profile?
Brock A good choice of parts but I have one idea.Use Squeek Bell,s(kiwikonnection)frame diagram as it is way more correct than the one in the Wescott catalog.
The Feb.2005 issue of Street Rodder has an article on putting a deuce tank in a Model A , pg.159. It's a slant-windshield fordor with a Model A type frame but it looks like they got it underneath a little further.
The list looks good to me, except for one minor detail. I think you might want to tape measure the width of the frame and wheelwell area to consider if the rear axle isn't a little too wide. The tires on my roadster stick out a little farther than they should, and I think you might be building yourself into the same problem........
I have a friend with a '29 sedan using that same rear end. The width seems just right for a sedan but would be too wide for a roadster
Thanks for all the input! First to answer some questions of Pauls, then ask some more. I am going to get the chassis built and try to figure how much room I have for mounting the bones. I am have split them and fought the urge to weld in the tube adapters. I want to leave them as long as possible and try to maintain wishbone look. As far as motor and trans goes??? I have a RUNNING 1950 Olds 303 with a slant pan hydro, all the Olds speed equipment I need, starter relocator, flywheels, tranny adapters...but I want a CADDY. What can I say, I ain't right. Pedals will be whatever works. 3 pedals in a '29 cowl with size 15 shoes is going to be a freaking engineering marvel, may stay with the Hydro. Brakes will be 12" 45 fin Buick aluminium with 53-56 Ford 3/4 ton 12" backing plates, 46-48 hubs on 42-48 spindles. As far as where I work...you have not seen me list any parts we sell, like I said, I AIN'T RIGHT. Let's just say I've got some good help in the welding department. How do I get a copy of Squeak's diagram. I have been on his website before, and talked to him several times about Cadillac stuff. Really cool guy. Does anybody have a copy or do I need to call Squeak?
"I have a RUNNING 1950 Olds 303 with a slant pan hydro, all the Olds speed equipment...but I want a CADDY." why not put both in there? I mean it worked in the Bustle Bomb right?
I am actually going to set it up for the Olds with the Hydro as that is the biggest combo that will go in. I have a late Cad to early hydro adapter so I can go that way too if I find a 55-62 Cad, early would bolt right up. I have all the other adapters for early Cad/Olds to manual trans. Just a matter of coming up with a couple of bolt in mounts to a std crossmember.
Im running a stock 32 crossmember with a 40 spring in the rear. The crossmember is notched to use the spring but if you are after a super low stance it might not be the best for you.I would use a flattened 40 crossmember like Ionia Hot rod shop does.Hope this helps
We have done several of these in the last coplke years. This is an example with a little valance panel we made.
Not really going for super low. I'm a big guy, don't like to fall into my cars and have to crawl out. That and the trend has been for heavy chop and channel. My spring is 2" wide,no 2-1/2" like a 36-40 rear so I don't think I will have to notch it. Do you have a picture of your setup? Tman, thanks for the picture of the panel. Looks good. I'm sure we will have to come up with something as the Tudor wheel well just sort of stops. Hopefully the tall tires will hide it from the sides. Thanks again.
After the fenders, spreader bar and frame horn covers were put on, it tidied it very nicely. No I work at Aurora Rod and Custom in Moorhead, MN.
Here is another shot that I forgot to take off the camera. Gives a bit more perspective. I think this one shows it pretty well. Probably should have mocked it up with the shackles in place and everything at the correct height, oh well. I can also make the brackets that weld to the housing a little long which will push the rear end up. That way it would look more like the picture, with a gap between the radius rod and the axle tube. The construction square were there to measure out 7-1/2" from axle centerline to spring centerline. I was wanting to make sure that big web 9" rear would clear the crossmember. Just barely clears.
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