Drum brake diagnosis...need direction and advice

Got it. So this could just be that the nut was too loose allowing the hub to rub unevenly?

 

Hmmm.....maybe the axle end is just starting to fracture. I hope I'm wrong. DD

 

Thanks. Are you sure though? Axle gnomes?

 

Hey Hoovs, you ever seen the Simpsons? Remember Grandpa Simpson?

"Wearing onions on our heads was considered the fashion of the day...."

Welcome to the HAMB Advice Line.......

 

You and me both. How can you tell? Movement, inspection, etc?

 

Logic is hard to find out here.

It's even harder to apply Logic when it's your own car.




First things first.

 

Well I think you found your problem by not needing a puller. Put things back together and stand on the end of a 2foot breaker bar to tighten up the nut. Then go for a test ride. If noise has gone away then adjust the brakes per correct procedure.
PS do pack some grease in the bearing first ,a good long fiber wheel bearing lube prefered. Modern disk brake greases don't work as well too thin.

 

It's like the Boogeyman. You can't see him, but you know he's there, right?

Better replace both your axles to be safe. Also, I suspect you may need a new engine and transmission, as well.

Damn! The onion fell off my head!

 

Don't forget that they sky is falling as well?

 

As far as axle breaking the only way to check for cracks requires the shaft to be completely out of the axle housing. Speedway Motors and others sell several types of safety hub/wheel retainers. For street use the Tardel style works OK and does not require the hub to be pulled off to be installed.

 

Anyway, if you'd rather pull your axle than adjust your brakes, the procedure needed to identify an axle "that's just beginning to break" would be "magnafluxing".... done by your local machine shop.

 

This sounds like the best course of action to start with. I'd be a very happy man if this took care of the "noise gnomes".

 

Now you're getting it.

 

Thank you JohnEvans. But before I put that hub back on the axle, I'd do my damndest to get the inside of that hub-taper rust-free and pert-near shiney. That rust will not allow the taper to seat on the axle taper as close as it needs to be. What do I know? DD

 

I've got my best man on the job...I think he'll get to the bottom of this pretty quick.

 

I will do this as well.

 

Um ... It seems to me that if it's necessary to explain what a backing plate is, then maybe Hoovs needs a primer in general drum brake parts nomenclature as well as a better understanding of how the brakes actually function.

In fact, not to be a jerk about this, but perhaps Hoovs might be wise to seek some knowledgeable local ***istance on this. What I mean by that is he might be wise to have somebody come over to teach him what what to do.

Or, lacking that ... pay somebody else to repair his brakes, because if ya get this stuff wrong it can kill you, or worse yet, other people.

Seriously.

Am I out of line to say this?

 

Looks to be holding the hammer-handle correctly and in the proper bodily edifice, which is more ability than I perceive many Hambers are blessed with.

 

Coopman IS right. That rust on both the axle and the seating taper in the hub is very, very bad news. It's called 'fretting', and it is the result of the two (axle and hub taper) welding themselves together from friction, and then breaking loose. Moisture adds to the fun.

You MUST remove all traces of rust, yet try not to alter taper in any way.

A primer on locking tapers:
A locking taper is about 7º, and designed to 'lock' together, hence the name.
The keyway, and key, are there simply for location, and, in an ideal world, is unnecessary in this application.
The torque mentioned IS necessary, to allow the taper to 'lock'. Over 200 foot pounds of torque WILL require you to have at least a three-foot breaker bar, the correct socket, and you will stand on the end of the breaker bar, unless you are under 175 pounds yourself, in which case you will jump on the bar.

Cosmo

 

Not out of line....out of touch, perhaps.

The guy obviously has a brain and some skills. I would guess the combined years of practical experience on this thread is about 400-500 years. My daughter is studying medicine in college...90% of which is on-line cl***es.
Drum brakes are not exactly lymph nodes, you know what I mean?

And where the heck is "western New England"????

 

No, you're not at all and I appreciate the input...everyones input. That's what great about the HAMB. I do have local ***istance and have enlisted thier help on many occ***ions. I always want to try to tackle it myself first when I can. I do know how brakes function and have gotten a great "schooling" tonight as well on the various parts and pieces.

Now, where were we?

 

Good God. Read your last paragraph. A 3' breaker bar....175 lbs....... jump on the bar......the torque mentioned IS neccesary....



Buahahahaha! How many jigawatts of energy fuel your DeLorean?

 

Good man. You were going to install the drum and adjust the brakes.

Let's roll.

 

"And where the heck is "western New England"????"

My best, dumb guess would be just to the left of "eastern New England", but again, what do I know? Dinner time! DD

 

I wrote that for a newbie. Most non-automotive folk have no idea of proper tightening, and that description gives a good idea that it needs to be TIGHT.

Unless you have a better suggestion. The spec IS 205-250 ft/lbs.

Cosmo

 

From the sounds of it, I'm going to need to grab a few things and prep as well. I will need grease for a bearing repack and to lube the points on the backing plate. Additionally, I will something to clean the rust away from the taper. That being said, I think I'm wrapped for the night. That combined with fact that it's 49 "****** biting" degrees in the garage tonight.

 

Not trying to yank your chain, Cosmo. But, the noise JUST STARTED! His axle nut HAS NOT BEEN MONKEYED WITH! The cotter pin WAS IN PLACE! So, let's use Logic, keep things simple (as you said, he is a "newbie") and move on logically. He (and I) have taken note of and have thanked you for your input, but the reason my dinner is cold is that I have forgotton to turn on the oven, not that my ovens' flux-capacitor is not adjusted properly.

 

Weakling! In my day, I would have squeezed the grease from a p***ing Wooly Mammoth, used it's tail as a brush and cleaned the rust with a Sabre-toothed Tiger's claw!

Why, I've fried Eggs Benedict on ******s colder than yours!

Where IS that damned onion!

 

You're definitely making a bad situation more tolerable and I truly appreciate that!

 

Cars/machines are logical. Not like your/my/everymans' wife. You can yell, scream, **** on the carpet and a car just plain doesn't care. It's all you. You are the only variable. No Boogeyman, no Muslim treachery... just you against yourself. The metal just doesn't give a ****. You seem like a bright guy with a logical mind.

10 bucks on the human!