Not another 36 ford coupe!! Not another build!!

Nice work James ! Hecho en casa - means home made in Spanish , sometimes making what you have to out of necessity because there is no choice . I like your spirit regarding the whole deal , keep working hard and don't let the problems get you down . It will pay off when you are laughing your ass off the first time you drive it !

 

Subscribed! Great car, build, work, progress, and attitude. Gotta watch those Danish tape measures!! (who knew?)

 

So she's in with little problems other than the Hurst motor mount is JUST touching the spring U bolts, so put a small spacer between the mount and the C shaped brackets and it is fine. i don't know if that effects anything, anyone care to comment. the only other thing to do is reshape the motor mount.











i have an idea to run solid steelies up front with 5.50 white walls and the hub cap and wide 5's in the rear with 7.50 blackwall with the Firestone painted in white, ribbed trim ring and a dark grey painted hub.

 

Right on man! What do the 'neighbors' there in the garage have to say??

 

well the neighbors have not complained yet, i have some friends who have a shop and their neighbors threaten to take them to court about once a month.

 

The chassis/ engine looks fantastic!

 

Amazing detail, keep up the good work!!!

 

this is a very bad photoshop idea of what i am talking about for the wheels tire set-up. the idea is a little different but not really when you look at hundreds of vintage 50's and 60's photos of drag cars and gassers.

 

I don't know what it is but i love cars with different wheels and tires from front to back. I am use to working with bikes which have a lot of details to play around with. Cars do not so much, so this is one way to add some details.

 

Subscribed!! This is coming along very well.

So how did the exhaust manifold work out on the drivers side? Will you be able to clear the steering box? Todd

 

I also like how mixing wheels up looks on cars. I'm interested in what you've got up your sleeve even though, the wheels that were on there with the stance were probably the best choice possible.

 

That doesn't mean that I wouldn't order some 6.5" 7.10 Slicks from Hurst to swap on every once in a while with black steelies!

 

hi tug,

its close but not too close. it can be done.

 

i am not planning on putting on slicks, i will be using the same tires i had before (7.50) just going to spin them around and paint the Firestone.

and i am using wide 5's in the rear and solids in the front. i have been designing and building cars now for almost 20 years and what i have always like to do is see details on various cars and fuse them together. the secret is not to put to many ideas into one car.

i am not trying to build a car that looks exactly the same as something from a certain time, just to use that as a foundation and then bring in details from various looks and styles. i think people over the last few years have got a little obsessed with they cars being so true to a certain decade or even year!! my problem with that is then you never get see anything new, i would prefer to see something different and ugly than something i have seen a hundred times before. i am not trying to start a debate, but more to give an idea for the choices i will make in this build.

 

HAPPY NEW YEAR!!​

 

I'd be hugging that motor too!!! Happy New Year!! Todd

 

You mean you're leaving that thing in the garage at night? Thought you'd have it in the guest bedroom.

Happy New Year!

 

The guest room!! i have it next to my bed!!

I get parts sent to my home and if they are beautiful i tend to have them lying on my desk for a while before i take them down to the workshop. But the wife tends to start complaining after about a week.

 

Last day before we all go back to work (sucks), so went down the shop and got busy. I needed to-

1. bolt down the hurst motor mount.
2. attach transmission to torque tube.
3. attach the hand brake.
4. make some clutch chatter things, frame to bell-housing.
5. run fuel line.



i had some problems with the mount. if the mount sat straight on top of the 'C' clamps, the mount 'just' touched the spring 'U' bolts. so i had the idea of using the anti chatter things as a spacer. IS THIS A BAD IDEA????





I had the support brackets (one's attached to radius rods) for the handbrake cable on the outside of the radius rods, but that made the cable to short so moved them to the inside and that worked, but now the cable rubs a little on the rods. DOES LOOK RIGHT????







So i read somewhere on here that it is a very good idea to use the rear support rods which bolt to the frame and then attached to the bell-housing. I cut the original ones down then welded on a 'L' bracket. I HOPE THIS WILL WORK!!



Last was to run the fuel line. Now i know some of you get a bit freaked out by copper but thats what i have used.

 

James ,Carl here do you have the fuel pump on the motor?most pumps will not fit with the hurst mount with out a shim behind the mount.And clearence on the alt to radiator tank can be a problem.Looks sweet doing a ausume job hope the fenders work for you

 

I need to see more pics of where you mounted your fuel pump!!! That's where I'm at right now! Also I've heard a lot of guys running copper and a bunch of other bitching about it. Seems like it's a toss up. I am running copper coated steel lines from Dennis Carpenters I think.

Also maybe some more pics of those steady rods would be nice. I need to do that L bracket trick and finish mine.

 

I would use one long bolt with a self locking nut on the motor mount instead of the 2 shorter ones.

Are you still planning on chopping the top?

Good Luck

 

Enjoying the build.

Re the engine mounts - one thing struck me. Why cobble up spacers etc, when you are bolting to an ADAPTOR. Why not get the engine position settled exactly where you want it and then modify the adaptor to fit dead right on the mounts???

The U brackets also seem not quite square and are introducing a bend into the mount - not good.

If you can rework the adaptor it will be a nice tidy job and if done well no-one would be able to tell it was modified.

Re the handbrake cable: Don't know what is going on there, but it looks liken the rear cable needs to be longer. The guides that you have are not designed to act as a bending point. If you need to use that exact cable, you might do better to delete these guides, let the cable run straight to the backplates and then rig up a support that will gently hold the cables to stop them sagging and rattling, but in such a position that they are not trying to alter the run of the cable.

Mart.

 

thanks mart,

thats some good advice. i think i will weld a 1/8 +/- spacer onto the bottom of the mount. so are you saying that the 'C' brackets are not meant to be 'out of square'???

 

hi Carl, i am using an electrical pump which is mounted in the frame. Thanks for getting those fenders off, looked forward to getting them.

JJ, hows it going buddy. so as i said its in the frame, i have taken a photo of the pump for you today. i am just using a cheap pump it came with the car. i will just replace it if it breaks.

the rods were easy to make. what would you like to see? i have taken another photo for you today. i just used the original rods and cut them down and welded a 'L' bracket to the rod. if you need me to take another photo just say.

58Lincoln but isn't the bolt for the engine a very special one?? are you talking about using a regular bolt??

 

That all helps Jamesville!!! Thanks buddy!!! THe fuel pump that you are using seems much better then the one that I am in terms of size. I am using a Holley Red and it's big and needs to be upright for it to pump which means it cannot sit inside of the frame....sucks (double meaning there). So I am going to have to make a mount that sits flus withe the frame so it can sit properly. I wish the Holley was small like the one you are using. That just looks nice and clean!

The L bracket pics look great and is exactly how I wanted to tackle my own. Thanks buddy. Looks great.

 

Jeffrey I have my pump mounted on the flat part of the riser for the rumble seat portion, that way it is upright and tucked out of the way, the old pump that was mounted there many moons ago was in the same spot.


jamesville, it looks great so far, where do you plan on runnign your exhaust? Mine runs through the frame side braces and you could have issues with heat if you ran them through there as well, that is where the wedeter exhaust dumps them, somehting to think about.

 

Thanks Dooley, I'll look for the spot when I get home!!!

 

THE EXHAUST

Last year my friend built a 32 Ford and i ask 'what was the hardest part of your build'. he told me it was the exhaust, i was surprised i never would have thought. well after spending some long nights in the workshop over the last week now i completely understand, it was a bitch!! i can close to quitting a few times, but now i have almost finished the difficult side at least. i only have to weld up a few more joints and make a flange to attach the exhaust to the manifold.

The reason being is because i am told no one makes a collector for my manifold any more, is this true????? its is an original 283 manifold (i am told) with a 2" opening with 3 studs 2 3/4" apart center to center, going into a 2" exhaust. would appreciate any help with finding them.

 

forgot to put these photos in earlier.