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Projects *oldsboy*_T-sedan build

Discussion in 'Traditional Hot Rods' started by oldsboy, Jan 11, 2011.

  1. oldsboy
    Joined: Oct 24, 2005
    Posts: 527

    oldsboy
    Member

    Actually all of my panels came from howells. I had to do quite a bit of test fitting and trimming but they seemed to be alright. I ended up making a few pieces just to get some experience shaping metal. I'll see if i have some shots of the corners. They are currently tacked in but not finished.
     
  2. DeadFast 33
    Joined: Feb 3, 2003
    Posts: 647

    DeadFast 33
    Member
    from Santa Cruz

    11" and lookin' fine. The car not the chick!!!

    FLiP
     
  3. DeadFast 33
    Joined: Feb 3, 2003
    Posts: 647

    DeadFast 33
    Member
    from Santa Cruz

    Picture problems?.........CRAP!
     
  4. lowtruck
    Joined: Aug 26, 2009
    Posts: 259

    lowtruck
    Member
    from Omaha

    Finally, a build thread! This is exciting.

    It's cool to see the last four years condensed into one page. It makes your progress look all the more impressive.
     
  5. 66JameStang
    Joined: Sep 15, 2008
    Posts: 76

    66JameStang
    Member

    Yeah a ton of chop! That is awesome! I am really sorry for your loss and hopefully the build will bring you some peace. You seem to be doing an awesome job, can't wait to see the progress!
     
  6. vtwinpartss
    Joined: Nov 18, 2008
    Posts: 335

    vtwinpartss
    Member
    from NOR CAL

  7. MATACONCEPTS
    Joined: Aug 7, 2009
    Posts: 2,069

    MATACONCEPTS
    BANNED

    build it, chop it last?
     

    Attached Files:

  8. oldsboy
    Joined: Oct 24, 2005
    Posts: 527

    oldsboy
    Member

    well put.
     
  9. RDP
    Joined: Dec 3, 2010
    Posts: 242

    RDP
    Member
    from Kansas

    I love a chopped T Sedan. I agree with El Bombero a T grill shell or even an A shell. Anyway, looks good and hopefully it is good medicine for you in dealing with your loss.
     
  10. 63FE_Iron
    Joined: Aug 19, 2009
    Posts: 3

    63FE_Iron
    Member

    the only person more proud of you than me is looking down on you RIGHT NOW and every time you're out turning wrenches, throwing sparks (yes he knows you burnt the shyte out of the garage floor mat) or changing oil. so far so good little brother. i had to laugh at hotrodjeep's photo-shop chop. seems i've seen someone else do that a time or two in the past 4 years or so. will be talking to you soon...

    ~daCod
     
  11. Don't chop your top until you have the seating worked out.
     
  12. HotRod33
    Joined: Oct 5, 2008
    Posts: 2,570

    HotRod33
    Member

    looks like you are off to a great start... put your seats in and get them where you like the postion with a steering column in and then see where your line of sight is... you don't want to chop it so much that you are looking at the top of the windsheild frame instead of out the glass.....
     
  13. gasser300
    Joined: May 25, 2010
    Posts: 486

    gasser300
    Member
    from Ft Worth

    T's have that "forehead" lookin thing over the windshield that does obstruct forward vision.
     
  14. chaddilac
    Joined: Mar 21, 2006
    Posts: 14,041

    chaddilac
    Member

    Hey Oldsboy, I'd like to see a close up of the door skin you put on the passenger side, I haven't installed my skins yet, but I'd like to see the transition between the skin and the original door beads on the edges!

    Nice Job BTW!!
     
  15. texkbc
    Joined: Apr 27, 2007
    Posts: 438

    texkbc
    Member

    Heres one that I would like to know more about. Does anyone have any more pics or details on this sedan?
     

    Attached Files:

  16. oldsboy
    Joined: Oct 24, 2005
    Posts: 527

    oldsboy
    Member

    I've had some requests for the sheet metal work on the quarter and passenger door. I hope these answer your questions.

    The rear quarter was a bit tricky. Had to scribe a guide on the car, remove it then used the original sheet metal as a rough pattern to cut out a cardboard template. Fit it. Then transfered it to the full replacement panel for trimming.

    [​IMG]

    The simpler way to do it would have been to remove the entire area, however I really liked the rivets and wanted to keep the look of them in the metal.

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]

    The passenger door panel I had to add a bit of a crown to the bead since it seemed to be a little flat compared to the factory bead. Once that was in it seemed like a decent enough fit.

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]
     
  17. lowtruck
    Joined: Aug 26, 2009
    Posts: 259

    lowtruck
    Member
    from Omaha

    Here are a couple pics from the day the T was picked up. (I was there, hiding behind the camera.)

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]
    Mr. Oldsboy himself. Obviously some plans are being made here.

    [​IMG]
    Testing future location of the "go" pedal.
     
  18. chaddilac
    Joined: Mar 21, 2006
    Posts: 14,041

    chaddilac
    Member

    How'd you crown the door skin?
     
  19. oldsboy
    Joined: Oct 24, 2005
    Posts: 527

    oldsboy
    Member

    Chaddilac -
    hammer and dolly. maybe crown isn't the right word. I had to raise the metal on the outer bead of the new skin to mate with the original shape of the bead on the factory door. Small detail can kind of be seen in the 2nd picture. [the close up shot just below door handle]

    Joe - Thanks for the documentation, I almost forgot how it looked when it first arrived. Forgot about all the moss.
     
  20. 63FE_Iron
    Joined: Aug 19, 2009
    Posts: 3

    63FE_Iron
    Member

    has definitely changed a bit from day one. i still remember thinking how the hell are you going to do this. no doubt in my mind i will indeed be one frightened passenger sooner than i think.

    seeing all this it really makes me sad that my Galaxie is sitting outside my door under a cover and a foot of snow.
     
  21. 66JameStang
    Joined: Sep 15, 2008
    Posts: 76

    66JameStang
    Member

    I have always liked bucket seats! Again the progress is awesome!
     
  22. oldsboy
    Joined: Oct 24, 2005
    Posts: 527

    oldsboy
    Member

    Just a quick update here guys. Unfortunately I haven't been able to get a lot of work done on the car outside of locating a transmission, researching on how to go about setting up the drive line and settling on the rubber for the wheels. [450/475 - 16 up front and 750-16 for the rear]

    I was pretty lucky to pick up a free mock up block and transmission to work with from the same guy whom I bought model T and A frame from.

    After a closer inspection though I'm trying to decide if it can be more than just a mock up block and see if I could rebuild it and run it. I know its been sitting in not the best conditions. I found it underneath a large sheet of tin roofing beneath some trees. (so its been some what covered I suppose)

    I can't take credit for tearing it down. Its been my Grandpa's effort and time in dismantling it this far since I've taken a job out of town for a few months. This weekend though I was able to make it back and inspect it myself. I can't see any cracks anywhere which doesn't mean anything. He also mentioned all the pistons came out except 3 with no problem and the crank apparently looks really good too. Though I want to know what you guys think.

    Runnable? or Boat anchor??
    [​IMG]

    Left bank. (driver side)
    [​IMG]

    Right Bank. (passenger side)
    [​IMG]

    The bottom end internals.
    [​IMG]

    As it is now he's still trying to get the cam out because of the 5 stuck valves which doesn't prove to be a promising sign. Any tips on removing the valves? You can see in the photos in what state the they are in.

    Thoughts suggestions?
     
    Last edited: Feb 28, 2011
  23. oldsboy
    Joined: Oct 24, 2005
    Posts: 527

    oldsboy
    Member

    Oh and since I'm on hiatus from the car due to a job, I've been acquiring some parts for a bicycle from the same fellow I've been getting all my parts from. I just put it together this weekend.

    I'm thinking it'll make seeing the pits at bonneville a little easier.
    [​IMG]
     
    martinl likes this.
  24. Left Turn
    Joined: Nov 13, 2009
    Posts: 634

    Left Turn
    Member Emeritus
    from Omaha, NE

    just pulled a flatty apart the other day and it seemed every other valve was stuck...

    used a combination of PB Blaster and an Air Chisel... soak 'em good... beat the tops of the valves with the hammer deal for the air chisel a bit to loosen the crud..

    if you can get them up out of the seat a bit and get something under them or grab the head with a pair of channel locks (i had a big pair of curved jaw vice grips) you should be good.. seemed the hardest part was getting the keepers and springs off since I lost my spring tool...

    good luck!
     
  25. oldsboy
    Joined: Oct 24, 2005
    Posts: 527

    oldsboy
    Member

    Heading back home and out to the Garage this weekend. So updates will be on the way.

    The plan is to have the chassis bolted together with some temporary rubber on it with the body gets set on. We'll see how the suspension works out.
     
  26. oldsboy
    Joined: Oct 24, 2005
    Posts: 527

    oldsboy
    Member

    Back at it.

    This weekend I was able to finally make a little progress. In short its the first time all of these parts have been together for a true mock up without any hands or an abundance of C-Clamps holding things togther, this time just a few.

    BTW I was missing a few races for the hub, thats the reason for the 3-wheel mock up. Next week I should have the races and other roller wheel on with an attempt to fit the body.

    I'm a little disappointed with the front end height as it is now, and I know it will come down a little with the addition of the body and trans but I'm just hoping it will be enough. ( just a little nervous). That and I know I'm going to have to add a C to the rear over the axle its pretty tight in there.

    This is what mock ups are for build it, test it and build it again.

    [​IMG]

    I do have a question about this spring set up though due to the way the shackles are not sitting parallel with the ground. My measurment from inside shackle stud centerline to opposite is exactly 29". So I ordered a posies 1005SL spring from posies and its 29-1/4" eye to eye. How big of a deal is this. Its an 1/8" per side. Should I run with this or ??? Suggestions??

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]

    And thats all for now, here's the last one until next weekend. I had a little assistance from my helper in the last one. (My Grandfather)

    [​IMG]
     
    brEad likes this.
  27. oldsboy
    Joined: Oct 24, 2005
    Posts: 527

    oldsboy
    Member

    Found some more.

    [​IMG]
    Side view of the frame.

    [​IMG]
    '38 Rear with the Model T spring hung.
     
  28. You should be OK with the spring. Fully loaded the shackles should run 45 degrees off horizontal/vertical. A little more or less is not a big deal. At this stage, you can check by adding some weight to the front; concrete blocks, buckets full of water, engine block, etc.
     
  29. oldsboy
    Joined: Oct 24, 2005
    Posts: 527

    oldsboy
    Member

    Thanks Bib, I'll try that this weekend when I get the body set on.
     
  30. HotRod33
    Joined: Oct 5, 2008
    Posts: 2,570

    HotRod33
    Member

    you can get the frontend down more by putting in a flat front crossmember.. you can use a piece of square tubing 2 inch with the bottom cut out, drill a hole in the center to locate your spring bolt
     
    brEad and fast68 like this.

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