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Projects Rusty 47 Ford Reserection

Discussion in 'The Hokey Ass Message Board' started by koolkemp, Apr 17, 2010.

  1. banditomerc
    Joined: Dec 18, 2005
    Posts: 2,507

    banditomerc
    Member

    Hey Steve,looking great.I can appreciate alllll that welding you have going on there,time consuming to say the least but worth it.I have been working on details on my '47,slow process.Sorry to read you won't be making it out west for the GNRS.I will be there sunday,it's gonna be cool.
     
  2. koolkemp
    Joined: May 7, 2004
    Posts: 6,006

    koolkemp
    Member

    I am sure back in the "old" days they would have just filled it full of lead :eek: not wonder they rode low in the back :D
     
  3. koolkemp
    Joined: May 7, 2004
    Posts: 6,006

    koolkemp
    Member

    I would give my left nut to be there for that but there was just no way I could afford to go :(....once in a lifetime opportunity to see that many historical cars in one place..have a good time for me eh and take lots of pics .
     
  4. GizmoJoe
    Joined: Jul 18, 2007
    Posts: 1,300

    GizmoJoe
    Member

    You sure ain't afraid of that welder! ;)
    Looking good.

    So you have created a pocket behind the fender patches.
    Just a few pinholes in the welding around the fender to body area (where the welting would normally be) will allow that demon-salt in.
    I'd consider drilling a couple of holes from the inside of the body after you finish the welding and squirt in some epoxy to hold back the wonderful rust our area is known for.
    You could cap the holes with rubber plugs after or leave them open if they are inside the body.
    Just a thought....
     
  5. I would suggest you just rub Gibbs brand product of any bare metal.
    That will seal it from rust. Easy to put on and can be just painted over later when ready.
     
  6. koolkemp
    Joined: May 7, 2004
    Posts: 6,006

    koolkemp
    Member

    I have never been able to find the stuff around here...if its around GizmoJoe will have seen it??What do ya say Joe?
     
  7. koolkemp
    Joined: May 7, 2004
    Posts: 6,006

    koolkemp
    Member

    The metal I used is satin coated and I spayed everything with weld through primer before I welded it in . Lindsay has a high end undercoating gun with the flexible wands etc, I was gonna borrow it and drill the holes then fill with something...on the underside I will seam seal everything up then rockerguard and paint, should outlast me :p. I know what you mean though I dont like leaving a pocket like that ...the price you have to pay to look cool when building a custom :cool:
     
  8. RichFox
    Joined: Dec 3, 2006
    Posts: 10,020

    RichFox
    Member Emeritus

  9. GizmoJoe
    Joined: Jul 18, 2007
    Posts: 1,300

    GizmoJoe
    Member

    No, I've never seen Gibbs around here.
    I've wanted to try it, once I found out you could paint over it.

    In a perfect world you would have no pin holes in the welding and could make a completely sealed area.
    I would be concerned that whatever you spray in the "pocket" would leech through a pin hole into the filler material. That's why I mentioned epoxy.
    Dammit is the pro to ask about that. He da man.
     
  10. rusty76
    Joined: Jun 8, 2009
    Posts: 882

    rusty76
    Member
    from Midway NC

    Man you really are doing some great stuff. I have really enjoyed this build.
     
  11. koolkemp
    Joined: May 7, 2004
    Posts: 6,006

    koolkemp
    Member

    Thanks ! Its still along way to go yet !
     
  12. koolkemp
    Joined: May 7, 2004
    Posts: 6,006

    koolkemp
    Member

     
  13. GizmoJoe
    Joined: Jul 18, 2007
    Posts: 1,300

    GizmoJoe
    Member

    Well, again, I'm not the pro but...
    I guess if you aren't going to have her out on the salty, wet roads it won't be a problem anyway.
    It's not like a daily driver with year-round exposure. Otherwise, yes moisture WILL leach through and "around" marglass. Sorry. Been there. You have to seal things up.
    As for the wand it depends on what it's made of. I would think the strong solvents in undercoatings would be quite harsh on seals and stuff so epoxy may not be terrible.
    Unfortunately you won't know until you test it. :(
     
  14. 64LeSabre455
    Joined: Dec 29, 2007
    Posts: 778

    64LeSabre455
    Member
    from Adkins, Tx

    For pinholes, I have used allmetal as a filler after they are ground down, to me it seems like that would keep out any potential of rust appearing where you don't want it!
     
  15. koolkemp
    Joined: May 7, 2004
    Posts: 6,006

    koolkemp
    Member

    I have used it as well and have never had anything come back through it either ....
     
  16. koolkemp
    Joined: May 7, 2004
    Posts: 6,006

    koolkemp
    Member

    I dont have a problem testing it (epoxy) I just dont want to have to buy Lindsay a new gun,:D so till I know for sure . Ask Fred if he thinks it would be ok , he must have one of those guns ? I would think if you cleaned it out asap with laq thinner it would be ok...
     
  17. GizmoJoe
    Joined: Jul 18, 2007
    Posts: 1,300

    GizmoJoe
    Member

    Ya, I'd worry more about the cleaner than the epoxy going through it.

    The last I'll say about the rust is don't forget that you are in the salty East now. Seal extra well.
    She's gonna be a cool ride. Protect her well.
     
  18. If you need to find Gibbs products , just google "Gibbs lubricant"....you can buy it on the Gibbs site.........personally I would never use a petroleum base anything on bare metal that I was going to paint. There is always a great risk of "fish eyes" in your paint job when bare metal is contaminated with a foreign substance. I prep bare metal with zinc oxide which I buy from Eastwood, no problems with primer or final paint.
    man your work on the '47 is something else, I'm amazed at what you can do with a piece of metal, a dolly,a hammer, a grinder and a welder.....after seeing your step by step fabrication techniques, I can now tackle some of my metal fab issues..........sweet job........
     
    Marty Skelton likes this.
  19. GizmoJoe
    Joined: Jul 18, 2007
    Posts: 1,300

    GizmoJoe
    Member

    I agree. But they say it's paint-able. ???? What gives? Maybe I should search about it so I don't hijack Steve's thread.
     
  20. Re Gibbs.
    There is way too much good info said about it for it not work as advertised.
    Can't find any negatives re paint etc.
     
  21. koolkemp
    Joined: May 7, 2004
    Posts: 6,006

    koolkemp
    Member

    Thanks for the compliments! I have gotten alot from guys build threads on here over the years and I feel privaleged to be able to give a little back :eek:

    As for the Gibbs, if you can only buy it in the US it might not be possible to order it here...it can be pretty tough to order/ship "chemical" products across the border. From what I have read about the stuff here on the HAMB I would love to try it.
     
  22. encswsm
    Joined: Oct 24, 2008
    Posts: 149

    encswsm
    Member

    This build is Awesome. I have been reading this thread for a couple of nights and I am totally impressed. You are an awesome sheetmatal dude without using all of the other specialised tools. I am impressed .. Now Im looking for a body to work on...Keep it up you rock!!!
     
  23. http://www.gibbscanada.com/
     
  24. old soul
    Joined: Jan 15, 2011
    Posts: 1,093

    old soul
    Member
    from oswego NY

  25. encswsm
    Joined: Oct 24, 2008
    Posts: 149

    encswsm
    Member

    Now thats Funny!!!:D:D:D
     
  26. koolkemp
    Joined: May 7, 2004
    Posts: 6,006

    koolkemp
    Member

  27. koolkemp
    Joined: May 7, 2004
    Posts: 6,006

    koolkemp
    Member

    I am still tracking down a few parts for it lol!
     
  28. encswsm
    Joined: Oct 24, 2008
    Posts: 149

    encswsm
    Member

    I used it on a motorcycle gas tank a few years ago.. It was excellent product. I remember the trick was to put a bunch of nuts and bolts onto the tank and shake the hell out of it. This removed all of the rust scale from the inside of the tank. Then we used a 50/50 mix of Muratic acid and water to etch the rust out. Then flushed it with water followed by MEK then used the POR15... the stuff worked great... and the inside of the tank looked brand new...
     
  29. koolkemp
    Joined: May 7, 2004
    Posts: 6,006

    koolkemp
    Member

    Abit of progress this weekend...got the pass side quarter finish welded and ground down the welds, I am digging the look :D

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]

    And I got most of the the filler pieces on the drivers side tacked on...I gotta cut out the old fuel door and fill it in...but I want to use the E wheel so I have to assemble it first...I could cut a patch out of a junk fender but I need an excuse to put the damn thing together !

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]
     
    kidcampbell71 likes this.
  30. Lookin good Kemp stay at it man, its a long cold winter. I like the look of those fat fendered fords especially when they are all moulded as one . Andy....
     

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