Lookey what I got for a project!! (Hyfire Poly!)

The remote oil filter is from a local (MI) parts house.
I just checked Speedway Motors, they have them.
Bob

 

Maybe it is a good thing it didn't start. How is the poly secured there? I read a thread on here about engines taking off across the floor starting them sitting loose. Sure is looking nice. Good Luck, glad to see ya back. ~sololobo~

 

Just came across this thread and read it all the way through. This is one class project, from involving the kids (priceless!) to using the old Poly (very cool!). I admire your perseverance especially with all the setbacks. Too bad it didn't fire up but it will and then you and your boys won't be able to stop grinning. Subscribed.

 

I am looking at the pic's of your Poly. the vacuum adv. on the dist. is pointed to the left side, (drivers side)
As you can see from my pic. the vac. adv. is pointed to the right side (pass.side).
I am using the stock duel point dist.
I am just thinking this my be why your Poly. did not start.
Bob

 

Mine points to the passenger side as well Bob ...you may be on to something.

 

Great thread. Good luck with getting it going.

 

As long as the rotor points to the right lead, who cares witch way the dizzy is bolted in.

 

Thanks George. I figured once we had it timed right, that wouldn't matter...but you'll always second guess yourself if you aren't sure. It did kick from the fuel we splashed in the carb bowls... so I think it's just a matter of time before we bring the beast to life!!!

 

Could dist. be 180 out? it would still pop but not run. My 2 pennies worth.
Bob

 

OK... update as of last night - engine goes in the bay with minimal trimming of the passenger side inner fender. The rear dump manifold on the driver's side clears the steering box with about 1.5" of offset - which is kinda what was expected. I have an new engine mount enroute from speedway, as suggested much earlier in the thread. Now the bad news - the AX-15 is a little larger than the old 3spd, so the trans tunnel is going to have to come out and be replaced with something a little taller. Also, with the engine in, the front suspension is almost down on the bump stops - the previous owner cut a little too much out of the front coils. I have been looking for some new/gently used front coils... but they don't grow on trees. Kanter wants $220 for new coils ... but I'm not ready to shell out that much scratch! Oldmoparts has them advertised for $175 ... but none in stock. It may be time for a junkyard parts run. Sigh. The oil filter will be moving so we don't have to notch the frame on the passenger side. I got the plate and filter bracket enroute... we'll just fab up some lines once we get the driveline all situated and a spot picked out on the firewall or frame to mount the filter. Fun, fun, fun! I can't wait to get back out there around Valentines Day and get a day of wrenching in on the beast.

 

Pete, be generous with the oil line size...'-8' hose and fittings would be my minimum and avoid the temptation to use any machined brass 90* el's.
Aeroquip FC-332 hose and push-lok fittings are readily available.

Call Ed at WildCat Auto Wrecking about the springs. He may have something.
http://wildcatmopars.com/

.

 

Aeroquip FC-332 hose and push-lok fittings are readily available

Thumbs up on the hose & fittings.
Make sure you plum (in & 0ut) right on the remote oil filter plate.
It is looking good.
Bob

 

Test fitting the Hyfire.

 

You may want to check out Google for Eaton coil springs,they have a lot of locations so you may be able to find a spring that will interchange for a lot less.

 

Thanks for the tip... but Eaton's not giving them away either... $239 a pair! I think I'm gonna just prowl CL, eBay, and junk yards until a pair turns up.

 

All right - next difficulty to pop up. The Hyfire out of a '55 Belvedere has a front sump pan. This works just fine in a '55 Plymouth, but not so great when you stuff it into a '49 Plymouth. Yes - we have tie-rod to oil pan connectivity, and that isn't a good thing. Before we get out a sawzall and a tig welder, does anyone have a pan (or an aftermarket source for one) that'll work on this oddball engine? I have it on good authority (thanks Gary!) that MOPAR pans are not compatible across breeds, except for Dodge/Plymouth. I have also read (somewhere...can't remember where) that the truck pans were rear-sump... is this true? Oh great HAMBers - I rely on your encyclopedic knowledge!! Come save this rookie rodder in this, his hour of need. Thanks!

 

Mine is a front sump and I have been told mine is a truck engine, although I never got anything to back that up. For all I know it is a truck engine with car pan LOL Did Plymouth make a truck in 55? And if it was Dodge ... did they still use the Plymouth P27 engine code?

I have one hell of a time changing the oil in my 35 too ... it's a tight fit!

I may have a source for you ... I will PM you. If you find a source for an after market I would love to know as well .... mine was made larger at some point in it's life and has a slight leak and it holds too much oil .... 7 quarts!

 

Leo's book lists 3 pans for the trucks, but it doesn't say if they are rear or not.

 

Thanks to Bob -ALLSTEEL above- for linking me up with Jack from OK... someone who makes rear sump pans for Red Ram Hemi and Poly engines. Ahhh... the power of the HAMB. We're going to have to drain and clean the old pan to replenish Jack's core stocks, but we're getting back on track with the build. I'll be home in 8 days, and damn if we aren't going to get that Hyfire running.

 

Be home in 24 hours! Time to turn some wrenches and spark an engine.

 

Here is a poly still in the truck. Not sure on year of the truck but has front sump.

 

Looking good! Keep up the great work. Still following this thread.

 

Thanks. The right pan has been fabbed up and will be on the way shortly. We will install it after we get the engine fired up and seasoned. (insert evil laugh here)

 

Frustration doesn't begin to explain what I'm feeling now. We worked on the motor for 4+ hours today, and we're so close to getting it to fire over, it's painful. It's obvious something is wrong... we keep going through all the systems and replacing everything that is out of whack - fuel, spark, timing... just can't get it to do right. I think something's wrong with the dizzy, or maybe the way we have it timed... but Marty and I are about to tear our hair out. We finally just had to walk away, before we kicked something heavy and broke a toe. You know that feeling that something OBVIOUS is missing, but you've gone over everything a dozen times and still can't get it? Gaaaahhhhh! I'll post a few pics later... when I have another beer and quit tossing it over and over in my mind. Any and all suggestions are appreciated, oh wise ones. Start with the basics and we'll work up from there... outside opinions/eyes/thought patterns might just shake loose something we haven't thought of.

 

Timing 180 out or plugs wired backwards?

 

What does it do when you try to start it?
Backfire?
Sputter?
Just spin???

What firing order did you use?

Could your spark plugs be oil fouled?

 

It coughs, sputters, backfires, snorts... but just won't catch. When you manually advance the timing while cranking, it'll almost catch, then nothing. We checked, rechecked, and triple checked the coil, tuned and gapped the distributor, inspected the fuel lines... used the firing order off of ALLPAR - 1,8,4,3,6,5,7,2 Hell, we even pulled the plugs and cleaned them back off with a flame to ensure there wasn't any oil fouling... they were plenty wet with gas - so we know fuel is getting atomized. Soooooo frustrating to be so close, yet so far. Keep 'em coming guys... I know we've just been staring at this thing for too long and can't see the OBVIOUS something that's missing.

 

My firing order is 1-3-5-7 drivers side 2-4-6-8 passenger ... I will have to check the dizzy for that order I can if you need me to? Sorry to hear your having so much trouble.

EDIT:

I checked and my dizzy is the same ......

 

You might wanna change your plugs with brand new ones. I've been down the road you are describing and would have sworn the plugs were good, but an old timer told me they can stay wet deep inside which will ground them. Yours being wet with gas is a good indication of this. Sure as shit it fired up when I stuck a new set of plugs in it.