A Hal motor is one of the most amazing motors you can see as you can see by Richies build but lets not forget that our own Bluto has shown us wee snippets of another Hal and all the problems of building such a motor.
Your right! Do you think I'm giving up....... Or maybe I'll just stick the HAL on a 'D block' This motor makes a lot more sense than GOLF! I will say that HALs are not really street motors they are not "long life" units Problems are not with the HAL part.... that was only some welding cracks and now shrinking the valve size. The problem with that was the 5 main block basically distroyed by a long ago previous owner poor machining Sorry to say that block is only good as a reminder to measure twice and cut once. If it had known about things I would have never let my Cragar loose. Better head honest. Sorry there's not been an update for a time I been sick
Hope you're much better now Jimski. My Jan banger news is ...... I'm going to drag that old A frame into the garage, and start assembling it with a banger, and throw it together and try to get it running for a tribute run we are organizing out here - a tribute to the early style run put on by the Pasadena Roadster Club, and like the early runs, allow coupes into it. I'll run an original trans until I can get everything sorted for a T5. A friend just gave me a good 31 trans, and I'll look into getting a 37 rear for it, shorten the TT, and run a spring on top, until I redo it with the T5. Wish me luck
Speaking of spending lots-0-money on a banger This is a Ballila motor down in there I'd bet this makes 40+ hp
Looks like a ball to drive !!!!! What did you use for the "step up" that helps you get up and in ur car?
Yours?--Nah- you don't like SU's Not room for something like an old Volvo- at least twice that amount of power--Oh crap--SU's again! Herb
saw an offy yesterday . one nice motor ! ..................... steve This belongs in a new thread--"Understatements of the Year" Herb
Here is my $0.02 I hate to admit it, but I spent @ $15,000 on the engine you see below. Specs: "A" block inserted and pressurized,1/8" over Ross pistons, counterbalanced "B" crank and stroked 3/8" (232 cid.). H beam rods, Aluminum flywheel, cross flow hemi four port head, 3 97's with progressive linkage. This engine sits on a stand in my garage with just under 1500 miles on it. I have broken two cranks. The first one only lasted @ 200 miles. The last one that broke took out the rear main and is why it is sitting on a stand. All of the miles on this engine are street miles with no track time at all. This was a spare no expense build trusted to a shop that bills themselves as the best around. The first crank broke at the #4 rod journal. When I pulled the engine apart, I found many problems with the quality of the build. The major one of course was the fillet radii in all of the bearing journals were .080" 0r smaller. Way too sharp!!!!! I took the broken parts back and they offered to replace the crank and bearings I told them that the new crank should have no less then a 1/8" fillet radii in all of the journals and even gave them a CAD drawing I did of each bearing assembly showing that there was room for a 3/16" rad. When I went to pick up the new crank, I noticed that the fillets were small and was told that was the best they could do. It lasted about 1300 miles. The engine I run now is pictured below. It is a B engine that came out of a '33 commercial truck. I paid $660 for it. Specs: Stock bottom end babit rods and bearings, NON counterbalanced crank, lightened flywheel to 42#, 7.62:1 compression head, Modified duration "B" lift cam, 2 81 Strombergs, FSI distributor. Total cost @ $2,200. This engine was pulled from the truck, cleaned in side and out, clearances checked but no adjustment needed. Cylinders are .040" over and there is about .010" of belly wear to the cylinder wall. I put new pistons and rings and only honed the cylinders to break the glaze. I painted it, installed the head, intake and exhaust, and put it in the car. That was two years ago. I'M HAVING A LOT OF FUN WITH THIS. My point to all of this is that the build is just as important as the builder. If you decide to go all out on the build, make sure it is the right build for your intended use. If I had it to do over, I would have built a "D" with a 8.5:1 flat head, and a Brierley Winfield grind cam, 2 48 Strombergs. Or a A block with a five main crank and girdle, pressurized, and stroked 1/4", bored 1/8", Serr Cragar, a Dan Price crossflow, Dan Eubanks crossflow, or a Rutherford OHV. I would love to have a HAL, or an Offy. I also know that neither one of those are not very good for the street. Especially at the cost. I would never let H&H do any more work for me. SORRY FOR THE LONG READ. .
Got my coupe to run for the first time for me! Thanks to the HAMB and the Banger threads. I had to re-time the spark, now if I can get it to sit at a nice idle I'll get a video going. http://www.abarnyard.com/workshop/timing.htm
Crazydaddyo... I know... you know you are not alone with that builder. I would call it bad luck but if the builder can't or wont do what is right. Then I would say you were lucky it lasted that long. It sucks when you spend so much and think you have the best shop to do the work and they look you in the eye take your cash and fuck ya On a good note I am with you on the low buck engine I beat the balls out of mine this summer over 4000 mile sens June. I hope to start working on my B engine real soon (again). I am doing most off the work my self so there will be only one person to blame when I blow it up. When you run a CNC machine shop it hard to go into most of these engine shops and trust there old machines and lack of tools. I would just like to say.... I am NOT saying all shops are bad but there is a lot of farmer out there
I appreciate your honesty and the fact you shared this information with the rest of us. I have heard from every reputable 4 banger engine builder that the fillet radius on the crank is critical to there longevity. You mention if you had it to do over you would use a "D" block are you referring to a Donovan block. Thanks Steve
Ive heard the same things about that shop, is there any good shops around? I have a b block and c crank, i need sleaves and i want inserts.
this is the type of thing we need to read i have had similar problems sorry for your experience .I have found that the builder has to share your enthusiasm talk the build through with you and it not just be another crank with a old motor on one build I had done the shims were cut oil poured out everywhere basic stuff wrong when you are paying for a pro job . ps hows dads motor comming
Yes, The "D" is for Donovan. More info here: http://www.modelaparts.net/hiperf.html/donovansem.html .
The reason for this post was to inform anyone thinking of building their "dream banger" to do as much research about the build as possible. There is a lot of info out there. Some is good, and some is bias. Take the advice from the people you trust the most. Look for the people that have done it. There are many "I've heard" stories about bangers and at least half are total BS. I've come to trust people like J.P. Bill, Bluto, and 2 Port Riley. If they say It can or can't be done, I listen. Pop's Rutherford is in the truck and we are working on the timing cover mounted distributor and intake now. Hope to have it done in time for the OCMAFC Pancake breakfast in April. Still looking for an intake that is set up for Strombergs for it. We're about ready to fab one up. I don't want him to cut up the Winfield set up that he has.
Taylor Engines, you could eat off of the display engine they had at Mooneyes Xmas party/show. I have no real experience with builders beyond my local friend/Mentor who has been restoring A(s) for the past 25 years. I feel left out when I show up after work sometimes to find him having poured babbit earlier in the day and finishing mains/cross hatching. That was a recent event. Have watched him a couple of times and its a very fine art that will be gone to the future generations soon. For all you young people into Bangers out there like myself hit up your local model A clubs, join the ranks and learn from the shadows and by watching carefully. We are the future of the banger powered history. Dan I may try to make it down for the Pancakes this year. GNRS or Turlock Dan? I am at Turlock at least 1 day may drive down to GNRS too.-Weeks
Taylor will do the machine work for my next engine build. I have faith in Jay Steel and the knowledge he left behind. Bill is one of their biggest proponents, maybe he can shed some light on their ability post Jay. I want to go to Turlock. I may drive up Saturday morning and back hope that afternoon. No GNRS for me. I'm not a big fan of all day indoor shows. .
Let me know what time you leave, myself and Trad27 are planning on heading up early sat morning. Maybe we can caravan.-Weeks
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