Here is a picture of the engine before we put it into the hillclimb car. Joe Gemsa used the Gallivan/Rajo patterns to cast about a dozen heads. This engine is a dry sump Gemsa cammed bored and stroked T.
hey guys! I've been reading the monthly banger meets for several years; and this, to me, has been one of the best. First of all, our friend Jimski the "Bluto" has apparently been modified back up to form. Some dubious builders have been "outted". And, NOW the historic Gallivan patterns have emerged. THIS ALL IS GREAT!! To be specific, it really does depend on your selection and relationship with your builder. About ten years ago I was referred to Jay Steel of Taylor Engine by Phil Luken of Blair's Speed Shop in Pasadena. After busting my second crank in the B block of my race car, I remembered the caution that Dema Elgin (Elgin Engineering, Redwood City, CA) uttered: "Gentlemen, if you run your A/B engines much over 3000 rpm, without a harmonic damper, you're eventually going to brake the crank; and it'd going to be somewhere around the rear main". With that knowledge, and other ideas, I went to Jay; and told him what I needed. With a lot of time (over a year) and money, we came up with a race engine that has been bullet proof for 5 race seasons, averaging six events a year. I've gone over the details of the build elsewhere on this website, so I won't bore you; but, I ditto Bluto's assertion that lubrication is all important. I use Mobil 1 20-50W. We built a sort of a drysump system. I say sort of, in that the 10 quart reservior is beneath the crankcase/pan; and the oil is pumped out of storage by a belt driven external pump. Last weekend, at a "Test and Tune" event a Buttonwillow Raceway; my little '32 AAA Champ car was sailing down the back straight, with that engine at over 5 grand. That computes to over 120 mph!! Whew!!!! The owner/drivers of the Alfas and Bugattis are going to be nervous again this season. Thanks for the great conversation; and Jim, keep getting better. JOHN
Hi John Thank you for your kindness. I think if a truck doesn't hit me I'll be round for a while longer. I look forward to hear your stomping bugs and burning bumm checks The oil tank is a good way to provide that clean wedge at proper temps. There is one thing everyone should remember a good dry sump system pumps as much air in volume as oil ..... the tank needs to vent well and have enough air space above the oil level to allow the froth to become oil once more. Ideally this means a 5 gal oil tank should be 10 inside. This isn't cast in stone but a good way to keep it straight in your head. Further there are devices that can be installed in the tank which help this process of air removal but I'm only one 1/2 cup of coffee at 4:30 AM
Hi Guys I am new here but have been reading all your posts. Is there really a demand for a good flat head? I thought most every one was happy with the lion head or the alum winfield or BF heads etc. I know myself don't like whats out there but thought others where happy. What are every one thoughts for CR and chamber shape, plug location? Bill
RR Bill, We had a pretty good discussion on Flat head chambers and their shape last year. If you take this link: http://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum/showthread.php?t=470853&page=10 Starting with post #198. Also this link leads to a copy of Ricardo's book that has some very good info. too: http://www.scribd.com/full/40610101?access_key=key-w2bcjicdancrnxypd05 .
It would be appreciated if you tell me when you will be in my stomping grounds again as I would like to see your whole set-up in person.-Weeks
I hope to get a chance to talk this year, everytime I get around you are always surrounded by adoring fans...or angry bug owners...
Thanks Crazy, I took a look at the earlier posts I have the Harley article a read it over. About 9 years ago I started testing different head modifications and have a new one on the drawing board that I think will perform well. Hear is one of the first heads I modified to get more flow in the transfer area this was 7 to1 after I was done. I made 70HP at 175.5 LB at 2100 rpm and 99.55HP at 153.6 LB at 3500 rpm very nice flat torque in the 1700 to 2600 rpm range 174 to 172 LB of coarse there where a lot of other changes to the engine like special intake valves cnc porting the bowls and ports weber 2 barrel good cam timing. The new head I am working on has the sparkplug in a better location and the chamber is of coarse a lot different. Have any of you guys out there dyno tested the heads you running and if so what HP and torque are you getting?
jim , talked with steve straw today in nevada city . was up at stans getting my motor back . we had a nice talk . going up to see his race car soon ! ... steve
Don't need any kidneys right now--perhaps if you had a good right knee or a rebuilt section of lower spine (L3,L4,L5) we'd be in business. I have two completed twincam engines and really do not see a need for me to complete any more. The patterns themselves are a work of art and should be displayed somewhere. The heads are crossflow and hemispherical in design with big two inch valves opposing each other at an angle greater than 90 degrees. You can sight thru the intakes and see a full channel out the exhaust. The patterns are easily modified to fit the A or B head bolt pattern and were once modified by Joe Lencki to mount on his custom block that was in his Indy car.
O.K., Guys, The race schedule for our Miller/Scofield-Ford Champ Car, this season is as follows: Feb. 19-20 Chuckwalla Vintage Races (tentative) -Desert Center CA. Mar. 11-12 WRA I-10 Lucas Speedway (tentative) Apr. 30-My. 1 Route 66 Classic-AAA Speedway, Fontana CA June 3-5 Sonoma Historics - Infineon Raceway, Sonoma CA July? Maybe "Millers at Milwaukee" 8-9; and maybe Pittsburg Gran Prix at Schenley Park (all based on drivability of my ancient motorhome) Aug. 13-14 Monterey (LSR) Pre-Reunion Aug. 18-21 Monterey Reunion (formerly "Historics") Sep. 9-11 VARA Oktoberfest at Buttonwillow Raceway CA Sep. 22-25 Coronado Festival of Speed, San Diego CA (tentative) Sep. 29-Oct 1 Charity Challenge, Infineon Raceway (tentative) The tentative events are those that I either have not had yet an invite; or I'm not too sure I can physically make. I'll keep you all updated as the year progresses. And, "Fur", don't be concerned about walking right up to us and start talking. We're at these events for the enthusiasts, fans and spectators. My whole idea is to give the folks, not only a view of these cars; but what they sound and smell like. JOHN
Getting back to the Frick/Ardun posted earlier, I do not see any quench area in the combustion chamber. Compression is important, but quench (squish is a more accurate term) creates turbulence in the air/fuel mixture in preparation for ignition. It also reduces detonation tendencies. This is one of the obvious differences between the Model T and Model A combustion chambers.
The problem with the head is not the burn. The problem is with the flow in and out. Both have a narrow and abrupt passage. Just past the valve heads, the gases have to make a sharp 90 deg. turn. The head has Asthma. .
Does your wife put her racecar IN THE HOUSE??? These are the Daytons I need lock-ring, dental drive (square tooth) And anyone got a spare Rearend like this??
I think you could sell all that stuff and get a car Did you know I've a collection of small Accordeons? Ukes? Tea pots, and and Paint by numbers too?
Bluto; "Does your wife put her race car IN THE HOUSE ???" No, but she moved my bed out TO THE SHOP !!! Ron
This may have been asked, so forgive me, but, do you have any pictures of the patterns? Or possibly pictures of the various parts before they got assembled into the engine in the picture? I've got an old HAL head that's not in very good shape and have always dreamed of making a casting of it but changing the valve and port sizes down somewhat to try and make it a little more streetable. I've tried to imagine what the parts would looklike that go inside the head to create the water passages and the intake and exhaust runners. I would like to see a picture of head chamber if possible. Also, at what angle are the valves at. You mentioned 'greater than 90.' That is if you don't mind sharing that info. Any info you have on this subject would be greatly appreciated, even if i only get as far as dreaming about it. Thanks, Mike Also, If i would ever get to the point of casting a head, in aluminum, should it then be heat treated to a certain level??
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