Need some help from they guys running near 100 HP or more. I have broken two stroker cranks, and was wondering if anyone has done anything to stiffen the driveline. for instance trans mounts or straps to tie things together for the engine and tranny. I had floating rear mounts and plan to go back to solids for my rear mounts. I wanted to see if anyone has had similar experiences or if they hang the tranny like original. thanks and any pics would help too.
(Need some help from they guys running near 100 HP or more. I have broken two stroker cranks,) Kevin who is grinding your crankshafts? Are they grinding a well blended smooth radius or does it look like a plowed field? Are they counter weighted? Are you getting detonation? Where is it broken?
You should look into a Dampener IMO. I broke 2 A cranks then went to a "B" offset ground with a Dampener kit from Taylor Engine. I realize this is a shameless plug for them but there it is and it is late in the evening. Where did they break? At #4 or the flange? If at another point then suspect radius or rough finish on same. I'm using "Skokie" A rods and a 16 or 17 lb Al V8 flywheel with a SBC dampener. I'm not concerned with the driveline. Who knows, the crank may break on the next start up. Should be stiff at center main. I'm using a B with welded on weights and drilled. "Jiggler Joe" was once quoted as saying he could get 10 races with a welded B crank as compared to 3 or 4 with a C. Balance is critical as is checking runout at the flywheel. creates a lot of stresses on the rear of the crank if that stuff is flopping around.
I'm not going off on a long post again My guess is that some one missed checking something If you bolt the engine tightly to a very flexy frame you just increase the mechanical advantage of the frame to twist the motor and add further stress to the internal forces already at work.
offerings to the god of speed Burt Munro had a shelf of broken and buggered bits left overs from his quest for speed lets see your buggered bits{mine are still intact unless miss jilly injures them tonite!!]
I PMed Chris just this morning about his dampener kit for my B (very fair price) Hey Bill... whey the added wight? I know the BB trucks had real heavy cranks is there a added advantage to running it. I passed up 2 BB cranks this summer.
I hope this is not to big a no no........I'm thinking the Banger thread is the best place to look for help in finding a head . Brumfield head, Police Head, Model A Speed Head.......willing to pay top dollar for any of these heads. Please help need to go to Bonneville with one of these heads, Thanks Steve 612 860 4323 slaugtug@yahoo.com
(Hey Bill... whey the added wight? I know the BB trucks had real heavy cranks is there a added advantage to running it.) BC, I add the side cheeks so I can get closer to a true counter balance this will allow me to have about 1100 grams of rotating and reciprocating weight. I then run a steel billet under drive front pulley and a light alum flywheel 25 pounds or a lighter 15 pound. with out the cheeks just the counter weights add about 16 pound of mass and if you cut down the connecting disks after the counter weights are added that will lighten the crank more and give you a neutrial balanced crank but no additional counter balance for your piston or rod.
MAN you make nice looking parts... Are you still real busy with real work or are you playing with model As again
I'm still tuning my holley 94 and have seen places selling adjustable jets for it. I was thinking about rejetting it, are these adjustable ones any good, and can it be rejetted on the car? I was also thinking about checking the power valve. Is this easy to do? I know I have to remove the lower plate to access it. I am somewhat mechanically inclined so I was wondering if it is something that I would be able to tackle.
Thanks for some insight into my broken crank. First crank i had twisted flange off, second one in #4 rod journal. I had counter weights on the second one, large radi, and had the grinder face the rear flange to true it up to insure my flywheel was true. Checked it all out going together. Got 1333 miles on first and about 2000 on second, and i ran it hard. I wondered if my floating rear motor mounts helped or hurt me. Even with a trans mount the driveline still moves some, so i find that hard stretched to be a problem. i am looking for something different to try to help avoid the same outcome on crank #3. Maybe the new scat cranks are the way to go to solve broken cranks.
Don't run a stock BB crank unless your engine is stock. I've seen a couple of those weights come off and literally destroy the whole lower end. Both were being raced at the time, and both had OHV conversions on them. I ran one with good success but the weights were welded in place. The plus side of them is Ron Kelley says he's never seen one with cracks.
Listen to "just plain Bill", he knows what he is talking about. His flathead racer was 4th fastest at the Rte. 66 hill climb, the ones ahead of him were all 4-ports. BEARINGS, there are a few 1.800" bearings that will fit the A block and the C crank can be cut down to fit them. Corvair used them and I think there is a NASCAR bearing that is readily available.
Thanks for the compliment Jim. I had a counter balanced "A" crank and with the gearing I had I felt we needed to hit 4,000 and that was when it broke. At #4. Cost me about a grand to set up another, had to buy a new REM AL rod plus replace the crank. I installed the 11.5 Al flywheel and ran it a few years, didn't really go fast but that crank broke at #4. I put a dampener on the 2 port ("B", welded counter weights stock stroke) and I redlined it at 4,000. Jay used to hit 5,000, he just ran it until it wouldn't pull anymore and then shift. This was with one of his Dampener's installed. Actually, I feel Vic King was the first to offer this modification. He showed me one at the Temecula hill climb. This was with "just wind it up and drop the clutch" in 2 nd gear, 5.30's in the rearend. Lotta stress! 11.5 Al flywheel. I think the stresses involved in overcoming the inertia of the flywheel mass causes a lot of the breakage, notice it usually happens in the rear most portion of the crank close to the flywheel The car hasn't made too many runs with the stroker, in fact, it seems to get there just as fast or faster with out winding it too tight in 2nd, seems to have quite a bit more torque. So much more that we have to run with the big guys (4 ports) the others (flat heads) say we are too fast to play with them.
The cranks were angle drilled front, main fed#1, center fed 2&3, rear fed #4 As to how they looked they looked good. Any grooving was in the bearing saddles and the rear main had 3 inserts to make the width. I always check the journals between centers and with "V" blocks both.
Folks I have an opportunity to get a small space in a container from the USA to Australia. I would like to get a high comp head and perhaps a new carby set up. I like the new 6.1-1 snyders head, seems like value for money, there has been a lot of discussion about stud length on Ford barn. I like the Idea but not the look of a down draft weber carby, I have a single 94 that I could use, and also an early set of SUs that might be made to work. I have some early mech advance ford prefect distributors that apparently will drop straight in, however I really like the original A cap and copper connections, I am thinking about an adaptor but setting the timing might be a problem. Any recommendations? Brendan
Recommendations: Get better brakes so you don't need two horns! Then think of going faster Bill how did you locate the main caps ?? dowels, sleeves ... ??
I'm trying to decide on which high compression head to buy. Im looking at both snyder heads. I want the 6 to 1 head, would this be to much for my old motor? I know the 5.5 is safer but I really want the extra compression. Any one running the 6 to 1? Any suggestions or info would be great.
go big or stay stock I would trip the 6 to 1 just to get that little more. It you go back and raed all the old banger meets you will see Compression and a bigger carb is your best bang for the buck. Then you will get sucked it and big cam more carbs and more compression good luck
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