Register now to get rid of these ads!

Projects Giant speedster project

Discussion in 'The Hokey Ass Message Board' started by yonahrr, Apr 25, 2010.

  1. Does the old radiator smell like wildcat?:confused:

    First thing I thought of when I saw the pipe threads.......;)

    Old truck radiators had more uses than cooling engines.:eek:
     
  2. yonahrr
    Joined: Feb 27, 2010
    Posts: 1,348

    yonahrr
    Member

    Cooling

    The radiator smelled like "Old Sheep Dip." :) Try some next time you've got that special thirst. Today I bead blasted and painted the fan pulleys and polished brass manifold pipes and made more gaskets. I also ordered the fan belt I hope will fit--classic C38. 7/8" wide. 41" long. There was nothing good enough to photograph so I posted a picture that Babyland made using my REO and my kid's REO. Babyland is where the Cabbage Patch Kids come from and Cleveland GA's claim to fame. If you're ever passing through, you can drop your wife and daughter off at the Cabbage Patch then head over to my shop and pass the time while they spend your money. Tomorrow I browse the parts stores for a lower hose.

    Jerry
    <input id="gwProxy" type="hidden"><!--Session data--><input onclick="jsCall();" id="jsProxy" type="hidden"><input id="gwProxy" type="hidden"><!--Session data--><input onclick="jsCall();" id="jsProxy" type="hidden">
     

    Attached Files:

  3. MAN, I love your REO!!!
     
  4. yonahrr
    Joined: Feb 27, 2010
    Posts: 1,348

    yonahrr
    Member

    Cooling

    I got in a little work today. Besides riveting the fan drive pulley together I assembled the cooling fan. After that I made up a tee to fit into the radiator return line on the top of the engine. Not the prettiest work but it should do the job. Working with brass is fun. It's soft and easily brazed and polishes up real nice. Tomorrow, if there's no snow and the kids go to school, I'll pressure test my braze job. And if that passes inspection all I'll need is the fan belt--7/8" wide, 1/2" thick, 42" long and coming from Vbeltsupply.com--to have a complete cooling system. My Monday startup has been pushed back to later in the week. Video to be released.

    Jerry
    <input id="gwProxy" type="hidden"><!--Session data--><input onclick="jsCall();" id="jsProxy" type="hidden"><input id="gwProxy" type="hidden"><!--Session data--><input onclick="jsCall();" id="jsProxy" type="hidden">
     

    Attached Files:

    Last edited: Jan 23, 2011
  5. cant wait for the video, or till you can pull it outside and get some full view pics of it!
     
  6. Giovanni
    Joined: Jan 21, 2010
    Posts: 173

    Giovanni
    Member

    x2
    x3
    and x4

    Any more thought on how you're going to run the exhaust? I think dual 3 into 1's with a brooklands style silencer and fishtail ends would look awesome
     
  7. yonahrr
    Joined: Feb 27, 2010
    Posts: 1,348

    yonahrr
    Member


    I was thinking about something like on this Mercedes but then the pipe would go up and over the back tire ending in a fishtail or other interesting shape.

    Jerry
    <input id="gwProxy" type="hidden"><!--Session data--><input onclick="jsCall();" id="jsProxy" type="hidden">
     

    Attached Files:

  8. yonahrr
    Joined: Feb 27, 2010
    Posts: 1,348

    yonahrr
    Member

    Cooling

    A lesson on pipes. They come in different diameters and the diameter they are labeled probably has little to do with their actual diameter. The brass pipe I made the tee out of was labeled 1-1/2 so I never bothered to actually measure it. When I went to put the hose on it I discovered that it was real loose, too loose for a hose clamp to take up. The pipe actually measured 1.48. Luckily, I had some copper pipe too. It was also labeled 1-1/2 but its real size was 1.60 which was the ID of the rubber hose I was using. In a unique twist of fate, the copper pipe exactly fit over the brass pipe with just enough clearance to sweat in some solder. You see the result. The copper won't be visible. Next problem: For some reason the Lafrance radiator has an enormous overflow pipe--about 1" pipe (more or less--see previous lesson on pipe size.) So, I found a cap that fit the thread and soldered on a fitting for a more conventional overflow pipe. On the doorstep this evening, I found the fan belt I ordered along with a box of bronze lock washers. If everything comes together, I'm thinking Thursday startup.

    Jerry
    <input id="gwProxy" type="hidden"><!--Session data--><input onclick="jsCall();" id="jsProxy" type="hidden">
     

    Attached Files:

    Last edited: Jan 25, 2011
  9. llonning
    Joined: Nov 17, 2007
    Posts: 681

    llonning
    Member

    I have been following this fairly close. Your approach to solving problems is amazing. I am going to be waiting impatiently to see what it is like when you are done.

    Great job.
     
  10. KoolKat-57
    Joined: Feb 22, 2010
    Posts: 3,085

    KoolKat-57
    Member
    from Dublin, OH

    Why is the overflow at the same level as the return hose from the waterneck?
     
  11. Can't wait Jerry- great to see you pluggin' away at it!!!
     
  12. Giovanni
    Joined: Jan 21, 2010
    Posts: 173

    Giovanni
    Member

    i wouldn't worry if the copper shows. It adds character! Very innovative fix.
    I like your idea for the exhaust. The fishtail would look awesome if it lined up with the boat tail lines.
    I've been watching this thread for a long time. There was that little teaser startup way back when, but I can't wait for the real thing. Your skill, innovation, and persistence are admirable. Hands down my favorite build on the H.A.M.B.
     
  13. yonahrr
    Joined: Feb 27, 2010
    Posts: 1,348

    yonahrr
    Member


    Good question! Inside the radiator, just under the cap, is a tube that leads down to that pipe. Water must bubble up to the cap and pour into the overflow tube where it will run down and out the 1" pipe that you see. These old cars have a non pressurized cooling system. They run at a fairly cool temperature. Some old cars don't even have a water pump and rely strictly on the thermosyphon effect. I have a 1950 Singer 9 roadster that has no water pump. I love that car. No water pump and mechanical brakes. It can sit around the garage for years and it's always ready to go.

    Jerry
    <input id="gwProxy" type="hidden"><!--Session data--><input onclick="jsCall();" id="jsProxy" type="hidden">
     
  14. yonahrr
    Joined: Feb 27, 2010
    Posts: 1,348

    yonahrr
    Member

    Thanks for all the encouragement! It keeps me going.

    Jerry
    <input id="gwProxy" type="hidden"><!--Session data--><input onclick="jsCall();" id="jsProxy" type="hidden">
     
  15. Jack Innes
    Joined: Nov 26, 2010
    Posts: 178

    Jack Innes
    Member

    Jerrry,
    I am somewhat involved with a 1926 Arens-Fox pumper with a similar engine to the Seagrave. The pump is in front of the engine on the AF & the rad has some extra large fittings that look like your "overflow" pipe. In actual use the system is plumbed to run water from the fire pump through the extra fittings on the rad so the engine is cooled by new water all of the time - it must be set up like an inboard boat so the engine does not run too cool. If your rad only has the top fitting the other one was probably on the engine somewhere. You have put the surplus opening to good use.

    Jack
     
  16. HEY
    why would that "overflow tube be so large?
    so the system could re introduce the now cooled -over heated/ pressure back into the 'big system " way back in the water resivior .. ya have one right ?
    that tiny overflow tube needs to be coiled like an old still condensation tube .. for visual and vibration resistance it may need to flow more than you are allowing
    I WOULD LEAVE THAT CAP OFF AND ADD LARGE HOSE UNTIL YOU ARE SURE
    remember the rad is a minumum pressure tank 2-5lbs tops
    or KABLOOEEY

    OR THAT PIPE WENT TO THE HEATER ... FUEL PREHEATER ?

    OR AS ABOVE NEVERMIND...
     
    Last edited: Jan 26, 2011
  17. yonahrr
    Joined: Feb 27, 2010
    Posts: 1,348

    yonahrr
    Member

    Cooling

    I've been told that some Seagraves had an intercooler that was surrounded by pump water to keep the engine cool when stationary and being used to pump water. My truck never had a pump since it was the tractor that pulled a ladder rig. I'm not sure why the overflow was big on an American Lafrance. I'm on a ALF chat group and I'll ask. The tube inside the radiator is still quite large so I don't think there'll be any Kablooeey. I just hope the engine runs cool. Today, I got the fan assembly hooked up with the fan belt and installed the lower water manifold. I also found a lower hose at the parts store and got it installed. Unfortunately I had to use some modern clamps. The last thing I did was make up the overflow tube. Tomorrow, I'll do the the upper manifold and fill er up to check for leaks.

    Jerry
    <input id="gwProxy" type="hidden"><!--Session data--><input onclick="jsCall();" id="jsProxy" type="hidden"><input id="gwProxy" type="hidden"><!--Session data--><input onclick="jsCall();" id="jsProxy" type="hidden">
     

    Attached Files:

  18. -Brent-
    Joined: Nov 20, 2006
    Posts: 7,595

    -Brent-
    Member

    That's a neat fan set-up.

    I can't wait for you to get this beast outside for photos.
     
  19. yonahrr
    Joined: Feb 27, 2010
    Posts: 1,348

    yonahrr
    Member

    Cooling

    Sometimes business interferes with my fun. This morning I had to meet with a new tenant so I got a late start. Despite the setback, I managed to get the top manifold installed. I lack one clamp (which, for the time being will have to be modern) before I can fill the system to check for leaks. If all goes well, tomorrow we make smoke.

    Jerry
    <input id="gwProxy" type="hidden"><!--Session data--><input onclick="jsCall();" id="jsProxy" type="hidden"><input id="gwProxy" type="hidden"><!--Session data--><input onclick="jsCall();" id="jsProxy" type="hidden">
     

    Attached Files:

  20. captainjunk#2
    Joined: Mar 13, 2008
    Posts: 4,420

    captainjunk#2
    Member

    wow that one of the coolest looking engines i ever got to admire ,
     
  21. fan push or draw?
     
  22. also missing the bbq grill/ rotissorie on the exhaust pipes
     
  23. the holes on the edge of the rad need a nice simple wooden cover laced on
     
  24. Locomotive Breath
    Joined: Feb 1, 2007
    Posts: 708

    Locomotive Breath
    Member
    from Texas

    Jerry, it looks great. The polished brass and copper clamps really go well together.
     
  25. Greezeball
    Joined: Mar 12, 2006
    Posts: 743

    Greezeball
    Member

    Ford's initial design for the flathead V8 was water pumpless.
     
  26. yonahrr
    Joined: Feb 27, 2010
    Posts: 1,348

    yonahrr
    Member


    I don't know much about Ford flatheads but don't those engines have two water pumps? Some engineer must have screwed up.

    Jerry
    <input id="gwProxy" type="hidden"><!--Session data--><input onclick="jsCall();" id="jsProxy" type="hidden">
     
  27. 64 DODGE 440
    Joined: Sep 2, 2006
    Posts: 4,432

    64 DODGE 440
    ALLIANCE MEMBER
    from so cal

    Looks great Jerry...What is the big sedan in the background? You sure have some neat toys. Love to see some pictures of that Singer too.
     
  28. jerseyboy
    Joined: Jul 17, 2006
    Posts: 634

    jerseyboy
    Member

    Mmmmmmmmmmmmmm, lots of shiney parts!:D Man I love this build, wood, steel, brass, aluminum, handmade bits!:D:D:D
     
  29. yonahrr
    Joined: Feb 27, 2010
    Posts: 1,348

    yonahrr
    Member

    That sedan is a 1930 Franklin. You see, I always gravitate to the most exciting project. I started restoring the Franklin years and years ago. I did all the wood work and began the metal work but something more exciting came along. I think it was the REO speedster. I started it up a year ago and it ran perfectly. It was going to be my winter car since everything else I own is open or convertible. Here's the Singer sitting next the 1967 CL77 305 scrambler. I had one went I was a kid.

    Jerry<input id="gwProxy" type="hidden"><!--Session data--><input onclick="jsCall();" id="jsProxy" type="hidden">
     

    Attached Files:

    Last edited: Jan 28, 2011
  30. yonahrr
    Joined: Feb 27, 2010
    Posts: 1,348

    yonahrr
    Member

    Leak!!!

    I started to fill up the radiator and immediately water began pouring out the lower hose. On close inspection I saw it was coming out from the solder joint above the lower spout. When I pulled the radiator it looked almost as if someone may have melted the solder from the joint. The spout was tight but it was leaking. I could have flowed some solder in the joint but I had an overwhelming fear of melting the solder from everywhere else. I've chased leaks on radiators before and it ain't' nice. So I cleaned off all the corrosion then mixed up some MarineTex and gobbed it around the joint. If the joint had been loose I wouldn't have done it, but I felt what was needed was a water tight seal rather than a mechanical attachment. I've had good luck with MarineTex, better than JB weld. We'll see.

    Jerry
    <input id="gwProxy" type="hidden"><!--Session data--><input onclick="jsCall();" id="jsProxy" type="hidden"><input id="gwProxy" type="hidden"><!--Session data--><input onclick="jsCall();" id="jsProxy" type="hidden">
     

    Attached Files:

Share This Page

Register now to get rid of these ads!

Archive

Copyright © 1995-2021 The Jalopy Journal: Steal our stuff, we'll kick your teeth in. Terms of Service. Privacy Policy.

Atomic Industry
Forum software by XenForo™ ©2010-2014 XenForo Ltd.