painters, i have a question

Alright guys I've got a few questions. Now before I ask, I already put on my flame suit, and I know its not the "right way" to paint, but here goes.

My truck is four different colors, and I'm wanting to sand it all down, and then spray rustoleum rusty metal primer down. And then use there flat black as a top coat. It would cost me about 50 bucks and then my time. If it holds up for a year or so and my truck is one color ill be happy.

Now a while back ago I posted that I could get there black to lay flat, but I reread the can and it says to thin with acetone, and I used laquer thinner. What do you guys think? It should work decently I think, what do you guys think?

This isn't a show truck, just a cool driver that right now looks a bit too hillbillyish to me. Thanks for any input.

 

are you dead set on using the rustoleum product? if so, i have used it with thinner before, and had sucess. i found that if you want the flat black look on the cheap, tractor enamel works good too. i painted my 52 chevy with tractor enamel from tractor supply. it used naptha to thin, and i used their hardener too. it went on well, and protected great. held up to the elements, and didnt ''chalk up'' either after a few months. a hamber up near cleveland bought it from me in 2006, i lost track of him and dont know if he still has it in black or not.
just a thought.
if youre worried about thinner not working on it, just use the acetone.

 

i've sprayed rustoleum a bunch of times for O/T stuff, it seems to work best with acetone but i have used it with laquer thinner and it works fine. i have had no durability issues when thinned with laquer thinner. the stuff is tough and if applied right it'll last way longer than the year you're hoping for

 

one of the problems with painting it with non catalyst paint is top coating it later. it may have to be stripped to put a better paint job on it in the future.if you spray it with a better paint with a hardener, repainting later will be easier.

 

I just did a cargo trailer with tractor & implement enamel from tractor supply.
Fresh blasted, rustoleum primer with hardener, 20 hrs later quick sand with 150 and long block, then 3 coats T&I enamel with hardener, 48 hrs later wet sand and rub. Came out very nice for a trailer job.
Hardener has ISO s and proper protection is needed

 

well shoot, i was hoping that someone would say that well thats why it shot ****py. My problem with shooting the semi gloss, flat, and gloss black is that it wouldnt spray smooth. when I shot the rusty metal primer it shot FLAT and SMOOTH, but then the black would spatter bad. Gun was clean and nothing was different in how it was adjusted, and then when I tried adjusting the gun it wouldnt get any better.

Im not set on using rustoleum, I just want something that wont break the bank, and if It doesnt shoot smooth I can either wet sand it or leave it and I wont feel too bad due to me spending 50 bucks on it.

 

what hardner can you use with the rustoleum? I thought it was a mix up and thin it and shoot type of deal.

 

the better paints do spray better, a lot of the industrial coatings can only be reduced 10%, they just don't flow out like paints designed for high gloss finishes, it's not you it's the paint.

 

I had the same problems with the rustolium semi-gloss the gun chokes up. I run a finishline Devilbis. No problems with rustolium flats or gloss. A friend of mine had the same issues when mixing their hammerd paint . I cant nail down what he finially used to make it flow through the gun. But it wasnt cheap 20+ a gallon!

 

Hey,

I get the " break the bank '' deal, and as long as you understand that we're not talking about a ''real'' paint job here, and this is about is offering some protection to the meyta;l all's cool in my book.

Lacquer thinner is really a generic term for a solvent, and most lacquer thinner contains some acetone. Good,well blended lacquer thinner contains a larger amount of acetone than the cheap stuff does. The problem you had with the flow out of your semi-flat finish could have been due to not mixing it well enough bbefore you shot it, incorrect pressure, or triggering

 

yea im using a binks mach 3 hvlp and it shoots the primer great. the last paint i used that was black was the semi gloss rustoleum and it spattered. it was only an engine bay, and it smoothed out as it dried. I just dont want it to happen on the outside of the truck.


so do you guys think i should try out the rustoleum in flat black with acetone, or something else? also should I spray any kind of clear over it or is that going over board?

 

clear is shiny

 

yea but they have flat clear.

 

i did not know that... what would the point be?

 

I just want one solid color, the primer gray, white, red, and rust isnt the look im going for with this truck. I also dont want to worry about having super nice paint on it so I can drive the piss out of it and not have too much up keep with the extiorer. I know this isnt the "correct" way to paint it, but it will look better then what it looks like now.

 

ive hear that alot of top coat stuff doesnt have the UV protection that clear does. or something like that. I should be fine without it though.

 

It may still be too thick when your shooting the black. Thin it down maybe some more. Measure how much you thin it out and go from there.

 

the best rustoleum to use in my exp is the satin outdoor paint here in ca they only sell in quarts but it has outdoor furniture on label laquer thinner is best to use ive painted 5 cars with it all are holding up well one was done 3 yrs ago and still looks good

 

absolutely nothing wrong with that, i would suggest stepping up a grade or two in paint grades. an off brand acrylic enamel with a hardener is cheap durable workable paint.

 

The best thinner for Rustoleum that I have found is Naptha ... it works well reducing the heavy viscosity of Rustoleum ... Joe

 

hmmm, I may dig around at work tomorrow. Im sure i could get some naptha to use. Now that I have a few choices im not sure what to do.

 

i used naptha once it took forever to dry

 

man it seems like im going now where lol. I hate being cheap sometimes, but other times it works out.

 

Hey,

If ya got somewhere the job can sit after being shot, outa the wind dust,I'd avoid the use of lacquer thinner or naptha and go with mineral sprits. The hotter solvents contained in lacquer thinner (acetone) & naptha will attack the alkyd binder in your choice of finish and could kill the paint job before its' time!

 

If you are looking to keep it cheap, and all you really want is to get it all one color, why waste the time with sanding it down and shooting the rusty metal primer? Just scuff the whole damn thing and shoot it with the black- it'll cover just fine. If your only looking to get a year out of it you're putting too much thought into using cheap paint. Remember, you can have it good, cheap, or fast- pick two.

 

I figured i should prime it just to help fill in any thing.

 

maybe thin that black out a bit more and have a practice on something before you shoot the whole rig. see what happens........

 

check your mix ratio. make sure its mixed properly, and if it is and still no go, try over reducing it a little. most of the time when acetone is recommended to be used, its because its an exempt solvent. (VOC laws and what not) acetone evaporates pretty fast, which could be why its not laying out. try over reducing it with lacquer thinner to try and keep it wet long enough to let the product flow/lay out before it flashes/dries.

 

You can buy complete 1 gallon *Hot Rod Flatz* kits for under $150. Here is a link: http://www.tcpglobal.com/kustomshop/ksflatz.aspx

 

heres where the cheap comes out in me, the rustoleum is 24 bucks a gallon. and i still have aceatone and laquer thinner left over. Along with tape, masking paper and sand paper.