I used a V-8 flat head preasure plate with a clutch disk from Auto Restorations (800-955-3139) But I used the stock A bellhousing and Dwight's uses the AA. Contact Steve Serr. His set up uses the AA bellhousing. Steve Serr's web page: http://www.millerhi-speedheads.com/transadapter.htm Steve's contact info: http://www.millerhi-speedheads.com/contact.htm Here are some links for the adaptation: =http://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum/showthread.php?t=92170 =http://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum/showthread.php?t=98712 =http://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum/showthread.php?t=254739&page=3 =http://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum/showthread.php?t=256226 .
Dan, Steve Serr advocates using a 14 spline input shafted S10 T5. My T5 Hybrid has a fine spline - maybe 27 teeth, as it was from a Camaro, and had a S10 extension housing and top fitted to place the stick in the "correct" position. Do you envisage any issues with this setup? Does your source of clutch discs cater for my setup? Do they have a phone number I can ring- I cannot do the 1-800 thing from overseas? TIA Mark
Mark, Mine uses the 14 spline input as well. The guys that are using the Camaro trans swap behind the V-8 flathead are using a different clutch plate. If you read through some of the info Flat Ernie has put together here: http://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum/showthread.php?t=169265 You should find that info. I don't see a problem as long as you are using the AA bellhousing. .
was given a "running when pulled" "c" (33/34) motor. Tore it down last weekend and hot tanked it, then had it all magnafluxed. The outcome...the block is a great paperweight for my skill set. the counter balanced crank and "C" head is all good, as is the rotating assembly. If anyone wants a late B block, that needs some "work"...drilling and pinning let me know.
Hmmm, You wouldn't want to donate that crank to the "Starving Bowtie Lovers of the Great Southeast", would you ?
<HR style="BACKGROUND-COLOR: #e5e5e5; COLOR: #e5e5e5" SIZE=1> <!-- / icon and title --><!-- message --> I drove my A around today and when I got home I parked it to work on it and noticed a decent oil puddle under the car. When I opened the hood and checked the oil I saw that there was a whiteish coating in the oil filler tube. I know this milky look is a good indication that coolant has leaked into the oil. I the checked the coolant level and noticed it was low but I haven't noticed any coolant leaks. What could it be? Most likely a bad head gasket? If the car ran well is there a chance of any damage?
ok Im finally in. I got a chance to look at what I bought and play a lilttle. had it for a few weeks. big learning curve here. I got it fired today. 29 chassis. putting my 31 roadster body on it. early 40's style. I will have a bunch of questions
It could be a head gasket, a cracked block, or a cracked head. Is this a fresh rebuild? Old engine brought back to life? Did you have the engine apart? How long did you drive it? How much coolant did it lose? Are you running a pressurized cooling system? Do you have any dryer sheets? .
Here is a possibly premature answer. The 28 29 frames are different from the 30 31. Mainly the front crossmember. On the 28 29 the small area where the radiator pads are located is raised and if you put a stock 30 31 radiator and shell your hood won't fit correctly. Ask me how I know. What I nave done is have the radiator shop change the location of the mounting brackets up slightly and I plan on adjusting the hood fit by shimming the radiator up. Some people just modify the front crossmember. cut and weld a lower piece in. I have seen one where the guy just heated it and hit it with a big hammer. You know "If it don't fit get a bigger hammer"
You will probably lose the "LINE" plus the 29 probably has a different radius or curve so won't fit 30 31 cowl. Maybe just leave the hood off but "they" will point and laugh anyway. The easiest thing is to modify the crossmember unless you are building a "RAT Rod" and don't give a sh-t. or don't have a 30 31 radiator. I have 2 and several 30 shells. I imagine you are too far away though to benefit from my generosity!
i have 2 31 surrounds and one 29. I have a 29 and a 31 rad. will the 29 rad fit into the 31 shell and look ok?
Hi I have E-mailed him before just wanting a price as his product looks like a good deal . Have you any idea of what he wants for this?
I was gong to say just give up but the PC police get pissed if you leave smart assed answers so I didn't. You are asking about 2 different cars although they are both model "A"'s there were changes to the bodies and radiators and their shells. You can make the parts fit I suppose but not very well and you will have a lot of gaps. I have a late 31 coupe on a 28 29 frame so I know of what I speak. The hood never fit right for the previous owner and he told me that he had been told they were all the same and it just needed to have the front of the body raised, problem there is the doors don't want to close ETC. ETC. ETC. By the way, I like that about the blue kid!
The only real issue is the front cross member, why not just replace the 28-29 cross member with a 30-31 cross member and be done with it? Then use the correct rad and surround for the year of the body...It all looks ugly otherwise.
Did he not get back to you? If not, I'll get the info from him. I sell him my stuff and I don't know what he wants for the whole kit. Model A restorers are notoriously cheap. They want to pay 1930's prices for 21st century labor. No offense to anyone here. I know how much you spend on these things!!!!!!!!! I had a "restorer" coment that Steve "thought a lot of his kit" and I asked if he ever priced the Mitchel OD conversion. He said that he had just spent $3,000 on a Mitchel conversion. I told him that he could do this for @ $2,500 and have a fully synchronized 5 speed. He said he would rather have the stock A trans and the extra shift lever. Some people are just thick headed. IMHO .
If I remember correctly, Rufi or Spurgeon/Giovanine used a C crank in their early Chevrolet 4. Jimmy B would know! Besides, you're too busy messing Stutz's and MG's to bother with that thing
Ain't it funny how the ones with the thickest heads are always throwing around the words "stock" and "original"?
And nothing about the Mitchel is "Stock" or "original" . And don't bust me up with the "period correct" BS. .
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