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Frame swap for '59 Desoto

Discussion in 'The Hokey Ass Message Board' started by Phinney, Feb 8, 2011.

  1. Hey I was in the same position for my friends 42 cadillac, he wanted to have a modern driving car and his frame was crap. what i did was find a frame with same width front end so it would fit the front fenders with a little modes then shortened the frame to the wheel base of his cadillac (I used a 1972 cadillac frame). After that i messured the underside of the cadillac to find out the width I need then took square tubing and narrowed the frame to the width of the car. it worked out great I will post pics latter tonight to give you an idea on how it was done.
     
  2. Phinney
    Joined: Jul 26, 2010
    Posts: 74

    Phinney
    Member

    Cowboy-let me know how that works out. I haven't got the frame specs in front of me, but I do know my Firedome is a 126" wheelbase. I'm not sure what the S-10 is, maybe 122"?

    koolkemp-I've been checking into a late model frame, do you happen to know what year that Lincoln was that your friend used? This is a project that you are almost guaranteed to learn with, that's for sure! I'll keep posting progress as it happens.

    riskybiz-I'm going to check your album out! It sounds like you were able to accomplish the kind of swap I was hoping for-modern technology=easy to source parts for. Thanks for the info!


    73RR-I am still checking into both options with a replacement frame or a late model swap/hybrid. I was told that the Missouri yard may have mostly 62-65's but wasn't able to find a number or email to contact your friend. It's possible that I'll make the trip to Moore's in SD once the snow melts as it sounds like it will be less than shipping. The body will come off once the weather permits, then I can put the rolling chassis into the other side of my shop. Until then, I will soldier on and replace the metal in the quarters and the trunk :(

    Scott-I can't wait to see your pics! I've been thinking about the possible choices and listening to everyone's advice. I just bought a Factory Service Manual that should have the frame dimensions in it, maybe that will help me (or you guys that are trying to help me) out?

    Thanks again for all the responses! While an original replacement frame would provide the best fit, the parts are getting harder to find and more expensive by the year. Another consideration is that my frame/car needs new leaf springs, new bushings, new shocks, and a new gas tank. If I were to find a roller with all these things, I might be saving a few bucks but spending a lot of time to make it work. I guess I'd certainly be learning a lot though! One way I justify this is that at least I didn't buy a really nice looking car only to find out it was full of bondo :eek:
     
  3. SteppinOut
    Joined: Jul 19, 2008
    Posts: 542

    SteppinOut
    Member

  4. koolkemp
    Joined: May 7, 2004
    Posts: 6,006

    koolkemp
    Member

    The Town Car was one of the really square downsized ones :rolleyes: my guess would be late 80's early 90's , cause it had a throttle body injection on it....
     
  5. gimpyshotrods
    Joined: May 20, 2009
    Posts: 24,401

    gimpyshotrods
    ALLIANCE MEMBER

    The longest S-10 chassis has a 122.9" wheelbase, as the 2WD extended cab. These can be distinguished by having a two-piece drive shaft, as opposed to a one piece one. You'd have to make up 3.1" in the wheel base, or live with it.

    You could get some of that back by re-drilling the spring perch hole and moving the axle back (maybe 2"). If you are headed for bags and links, you can make it all back up in the rear. If you are ambitious, you could lengthen the frame.

    My only concern beyond that, for a S-10 frame, is that the track width may be too narrow for that car.
     
  6. here is how I modified a cadillac frame it may help give you some more idea's

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]
    [​IMG]
     
  7. Topless Ford
    Joined: Feb 10, 2007
    Posts: 560

    Topless Ford
    Member

    I like that idea.
     
  8. Forget the S10 frame - track width is way too narrow for these cars. They are wiiiiiide.

    Honestly, you will be far ahead to get a southern parts car. Remember that even swapping in a 2nd gen camaro front stub, is swapping in 30 year old parts. You will still probably require all the bushings, shocks, ball joints, etc.
     
  9. badshifter
    Joined: Apr 28, 2006
    Posts: 3,606

    badshifter
    Member

    Keep up the good work! Makes me realize again how spoiled we are on the West Coast with dry cars! That's not even a parts car where I'm from. Great job.
     
  10. 49ratfink
    Joined: Feb 8, 2004
    Posts: 22,800

    49ratfink
    Member
    from California

    I think this is the first "frame swap" post I've ever seen where the car in question actually needed a new frame.

    that car has more rust than all old cars in California combined.
     
  11. What a about a gm a body frame, I used a 1972 buick skylark frame in my 49 merc and that would be about the same size as a 59 desoto. you may have to lengthen the frame but parts are easy to get and you get everything that makes a car drive nice.
     
  12. Phinney
    Joined: Jul 26, 2010
    Posts: 74

    Phinney
    Member

    That's funny, it's amazing how rotten it was/is :(. I just thought it was such a cool car to work with and figured that I could always use the existing sheet metal to make templates.

    And yes, if anyone that lives west of the Mississippi wants to donate their sheet metal, and frame to me (of course my three little ones too), I promise I'll give it a good home :D

    The good news is that a couple of people and places have contacted me regarding possible frames for my poor Desoto. We are just waiting for the snow to melt to confirm they'll work.
     
    Last edited: Feb 16, 2011
  13. Phinney
    Joined: Jul 26, 2010
    Posts: 74

    Phinney
    Member

    Just an update. I found another '59 frame that was in much better shape than mine so after treating it with Eastwoods Rust Converter and painting it with their Rust Encapsulator it was ready to go. The body was jacked up and the old frame was pulled out from under it using a small floor jack under the rear diff. The leaf springs had been pretty much removed making it much easier. After the body was back on the new frame the new leaf springs were installed as were KYB shocks. It now has new wheel cylinders on the rear and rebuilt on the front along with new brake lines. IF these don't cut the mustard, I plan to upgrade to disc brakes in the front and a later Chrysler rear to get rid of the tapered axles. *phew* Now, I am working from front to back putting it together and still need to get the metal for the trunk, tailpanel and driver's side quarter panel.

    The moral of the story is: I used just basic hand tools and the swapping of the frame, body and engine went just fine. Like some of you said, nothing fits better than the original part. Thanks again for all the advice.
     

    Attached Files:

  14. cuda65vpt
    Joined: Jan 9, 2008
    Posts: 20

    cuda65vpt
    Member
    from colordo

    Amazing! You are a Desoto goddess.
     
  15. 73RR
    Joined: Jan 29, 2007
    Posts: 7,342

    73RR
    Member

    Nice to hear that you found a good original frame. Sooooooo much easier that way!

    .
     
  16. rrbrucea
    Joined: Mar 2, 2010
    Posts: 646

    rrbrucea
    Member


    This! You picked a really cool one to save, way to go!
     
  17. Your work and follow through are quite impressive! Can't wait to hear about your first cruise with the little ones!
     
  18. koolkemp
    Joined: May 7, 2004
    Posts: 6,006

    koolkemp
    Member

    Glad to see an update I was wondering if you were making any progress on it...update us a little more often ok!
     
  19. tjmercury
    Joined: Oct 22, 2010
    Posts: 589

    tjmercury
    Member

    I'd lok for a chrysler imperial frame. It should be pretty close the the original (length and width). Desoto parts are pretty hard to find, but chryslers a little more common.
     
  20. tjmercury
    Joined: Oct 22, 2010
    Posts: 589

    tjmercury
    Member

    BTW, even though there is a lot of work done or to be done, the best way to learn is to dive in and it looks like its coming along nicely. Great work and hope to see more pics.
     
  21. raidmagic
    Joined: Dec 10, 2007
    Posts: 1,440

    raidmagic
    Member

    FANTASTIC!!!!!! Seriously impressed! Keep us updated on your progress.
     
  22. Phinney
    Joined: Jul 26, 2010
    Posts: 74

    Phinney
    Member

    Thanks everyone, I put some pictures up in my album here on the H.A.M.B. They show a bit more of the work that was done before the frame swap. Right now I am trying to get the passenger side taken care of up to the rear quarter. This involves welding a patch panel (did it tonight), filler and then stripping the paint from the rear door. All this time I am psyching myself up for the tailpanel as I think that will be the hardest part to reproduce for a newbie like myself. All of the build threads on here as well as your advice give me the courage to keep on keepin' on!!
     
  23. Phinney
    Joined: Jul 26, 2010
    Posts: 74

    Phinney
    Member

    Moving along, I made a tailpanel for the trunk and mounted the trunk lid. The upper part of the trunk lip is 1/4" rod with a 18 ga strip welded to it so I can use original style weatherstripping. The striker for the latch was mounted about 20 times before I got it right. I also welded the reproduction outer rockers onto the 14 ga sills/inner rocker that I had previously made from rectangular tubing. As you can see, there wasn't much left of the original metal. As luck would have it, the placement of that sill/inner rocker and the step I made in it allowed the outer rockers to line up flush with the bottom of the door edge and made a nice uniform gap at the bottom. I don't know how to arrange the before and after pics but am sure you'll figure it out. So far, it is much improved over the way it was when I got it!
     

    Attached Files:

  24. hoop
    Joined: Mar 21, 2007
    Posts: 660

    hoop
    Member

    WOW ,you are doing a great job.I am very impressed!
     
  25. Phinney
    Joined: Jul 26, 2010
    Posts: 74

    Phinney
    Member

    Thanks hoop, I'm learning a ton by reading the posts here!
     
  26. charlieb66
    Joined: Apr 18, 2011
    Posts: 549

    charlieb66
    Member

    Stay with it girl, theres nothing cooler than a DeSoto.
     
  27. koolkemp
    Joined: May 7, 2004
    Posts: 6,006

    koolkemp
    Member

    Great progress ! You can learn so much with a rough car...nothing will intimidate you after this! Keep up the great work!!
     
  28. Phinney
    Joined: Jul 26, 2010
    Posts: 74

    Phinney
    Member

    Ain't that the truth Charlie, I was given a 1950 Desoto Custom 4 dr to "fix up" after this one and I can't wait!

    @KoolKemp-You and the other guys that are bringing them back from a left for dead state are my inspiration. This has been/is one heck of a learning experience. I tell ya', I've used a ton of photos to fix places on the Desoto that were gone and I hope most of it looks close enough to be respectable.
     
  29. Phinney
    Joined: Jul 26, 2010
    Posts: 74

    Phinney
    Member

    Ok guys, you asked for more updates so here goes. The bottom of the dogleg was missing due to rust when I got the car. I used 18 ga sheet metal to repair it the best I could based on photos found online. This is what it looked like before, also check out the rockers!

    Before:
    Desoto 031comp.jpg

    Desoto 033comp.jpg

    After:
    0216121910comp.jpg

    And working on an exhaust:
    0215121758comp.jpg

    0215121921comp.jpg

    Only a million more things to go :rolleyes:!
     
  30. NHRANUT
    Joined: Feb 24, 2009
    Posts: 1,209

    NHRANUT
    Member
    from Western PA

    Keep up the good work. My father, RIP, was a Desoto mechanic, and he would be proud to see what you have accomplished.:)
     

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