OK I have a question guys How much can I open the intake port? It about 1.375 now. Has anyone opened them up to 1.5 and if so how far did you go in before tapering in. as always thanks for any info Bill
At the seat or at the manifold? I've taken the port at the manifold out to 1.5" B blocks are that big stock. I've read that porting the block at the Manifold is worthless unless you open the valves. JP Bill, Red Rocket, 4 Port Riely, or Bluto should now what is true about intake flow. I hope they tell us what they have tried !!!!!!!! .
Yes at the manifold. My intake valves are 1.730. I am thinking of making a twin 94 intake using 1.625 tube witch is about 1.5 ID. I made one hole in my A block that I had it fix. So I think I will ask the masters before I F#ck up my B block
I originally opened the intakes at the manifold side to 1.5 to match the throttle bore of a "B" Winfield. Now they are 1.625 to match my latest sidedraft manifold. I had the block up on the Bridgeport for some reason and noticed the valve guide protruded up into the chamber or bowl under the valve seat. I couldn't see the reason for the extra material as there is no side thrust on the valve stem just a vertical movement so I just milled them down. Just the intakes Then I bored the valve seat out to around 1.550 or 1560 and then I spent a lot of time blending all of this in especially under the valve seat. I didn't concern myself with the finish some areas are polished to probably 125 and some are rougher. My intention was not to open them up just blend everything in and consequently did open them up. I took a lot of material under the seat area. The intake valves I used are some Manley SBC long shanks that I cut down from 2.2 to 1.75. I use 30 degree intake seats .030 or 045 wide and a 3 angle grind. These long shanks are about .200 too short so I made some longer single locking bolts out of 12L14 and had them cased. The single locking bolts must have the threads cut right on the high pitch diameter to work or lock up and I had them cased to "file" hard .010 to .015. I spaced under the exhaust spring 1/8 I think and nothing under the intakes as the lock groove is .200 higher on the intakes and a little higher on the exhaust. I have read all I could find over the years regarding flow and how to achieve higher flow. but when I started on this engine my thought was to create an area under the valve where the flow would build up and when the valve opened up the mixture would just pop out or flow out. So now you know all of my secrets. If you disagree with what I' ve written lets compare timing slips. I don't really care what Harley did or Mr Recaro wrote. I run a Winfield design combustion chamber and I figure he had it right. Probably stole it from Recaro. My car is not in my mind or on the drawing board it exists and it breathes My advice is to do it right. Build the lower end to take the added stress and strain then bolt on the "Goodies" I read names of people who design and grind cams on this forum but my cam came from Jim Brierley. I just told him what I wanted. Another word of free advice, if you go to the expense of modifying your crank by drilling or welding on counter weights especially the "A" you would do well to consider a dampener other wise its probably going to break at #4 if you run it hard. "I can't tell you a lot of what to do but I can tell you alot things not to do"
I have a '31 frame that the front cross member is good in Wilkes Barre, its all yours if you want it.
I use the one from Taylor Engines. I believe it is a SBC. I cut the "float a motor' front. I cut the general shape by drilling a series of hole and finish it with sanding drums or whatever you have. I think they make a pair of small mounts for it or anyway they used to. Be very careful of the alignment for the key, they are/were a very tight fit on the crank and tend to rotate as you install.
"So now you know all of my secrets." We wont tell any one Bill "I can't tell you a lot of what to do but I can tell you alot things not to do" You should put that on a T-shirt Thank for the input and we wont let Daddy-O high light it on his banger list . Not. now I have to go back and read it 4 or 5 time to let it all sink in Thanks Bill
If some of you didn't see these. Some nice reading on the Holley 94 http://www.streetrodderweb.com/tech/...tor/index.html http://www.classictrucks.com/tech/08...tor/index.html http://www.stromberg-carburetors.com/holley94.htm http://www.google.com/custom?num=1&h...r&start=0&sa=N http://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum/g...hp?groupid=271
looking at this setup it uses a 32 B bellhousing that uses A or B mounts to the frame I have 1 left if any body needs it it will be at the big three swap meet on M 1 north
The trans top from a Chevy stick shift Van T5 is movable to a number of places Once the floorboards down it can look A This is not a van you find in Cali as all Cal vans are Automatics
I put a couple of Gemsa items on ebay yesterday, just got tired of hauling them to swap meets! I'm getting rid of anything I don't plan to use. Just going to keep enough to build 2 more engines, my 4 port and one more Winfield flathead "A". Increased medication make it harder to spell let alone work.
did you try the classifieds on HAMB I dont check every day now but I did when looking for parts got a lot of good deals on here
Checking out all those threads about T5 conversions was fun. Found out I have a 26 spline input shaft, and most guys have an original S10 T5 rather than a Camaro/S10 hybrid like I have. Does anyone know what makes the clutch plate from Auto Restorations different to a stock 14 spline T5 clutch plate? I have yo get one made to suit my gearbox which will be up to a banger using a AA bellhousing and one of Dan's adapters.
Mark, From what I could tell on my Auto Res disk, it is a custom 9" unit. The center unit has an extended 14 tooth spline hub because the A bell housing moves the spline toward the rear and it is not inline with the clutch surface of the flywheel. .
Thanks Dan. Can someone ring Auto Restoration for me, and ask if they make a 26 spline clutch plate to suit a banger? I cannot ring the 800 from overseas. Their number is: 800-955-3139 and could you ask them if they have a "regular" phone number that I could ring from Australia, or an email or snailmail address?
Have a few questions regarding my Banger Powered RPU. Recently about 4 months ago while swapping out the old radiator for a new walker radiator I noticed alot of rust buildup in the water. I flushed it twice with the new radiator installed and used prestones rust preventative and flush additive. drove it for a few days. drained it completly again and refilled it with distilled water. Now the head seems to get a white crusty buildup around it after i take it for a longer drive. Do you think the additive maybe messed my head gasket up? have any of you guys ever done something similar. also whats the standard motor oil weight used in the banger motors? any recommendations on brand. I live in SO cal.
I use a good straight 30 weight, Castrol HD is my current choice. You might try retorqueing the head. A lot of engines seep like that, I have had it happen with fresh engines but it evetually stopped It might be a good idea to run a 50 50 mix with coolant because it will probably rust up again with plain water. IMO
thanks for the quick response, i think alot of the rust came from the original radiator, ive had the new radiator in it for about 6 months now and drain the water time to time with no signs of rust, but im sure over the years it'll come back. I was told to used distilled water and but 50/50 may be in the future if i see rust. torque specs on the head bolts?
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