Help..new paint with the old look

I don't like fake patina. A few years ago when I was building my old Model T, I wanted the paint to be shiny, but look old. Not the rubbed-through/faded faux patina stuff that is so popular. I wanted it to appear like it had a lacquer paint job in, say 1954, and it's now 1960, and the paint has held up through the years, but shows it's battle scars and life.

I'm not a painter, artist or anything like that. I'm a crude experimentor. I experimented with an old tractor gas tank and some rustoleum enamel paint. I cut it with thinner, used a harbor freight hvlp gun and scuffed some cheap parts store primer. After the primer & scuff, I went outside and got some mud on a paint brush and kind of flung it at the primer, dabbed it in a few spots. Then when the mud dried, I shot the enamel paint. After it dried I gave it a wash with a shop rag. This knocked off the mud splatters, revealing the primer underneath, and put some swirls and light scratches in the finish. I gave it a mild wetsand, and rubbed it out by hand using some WD-40 mixed with some ****py old paste wax. It looked like small rock-chips and light scratches, but still had the shine. When it was all said & done, the tank looked like it was stored in a garage after a few years of use, pulled out, and washed. Exactly the look I was going for. I never got to try it on the car before I sold it.

 

Sometimes my 55 looks sort of like that.

 

I got only one thing to say to ya buddy. Grandkids and carnuba wax.

 

Now that is a well written quality answer to a serious question - like it

 

porkn******, thanks, you allways seem to have something POSITIVE to say no matter the the thread subject.

 

...With Feelin'

 

gay

 

I have to say I have probably asked some questions and wished I had not, But I definitely knew NOT to ask this one.

 

Hey, that's not nice - you guys brought me back to my senses!!

 

Testify brother!

 

Well look at the pot callin the kettle black. See if I ever hold your purse again.

 

Old paint that's been sitting in a can will spray on real shiny, and then go dull in just a couple years. I learned this one by accident.

 

If your just talking about not having that wet look that modern clear coat paint has, then use a single stage urethane paint. It will give you a nice gloss and will hold up well but wont have that plastic-y new paint look that all the street rods have these days.

If your talking faux patina.....shame on you thats just dumb IMHO....

 

Go back in your hole Frankn******.

 

ok

 

I don't get it

 

Paint it and then lite it on fire!!

 

I'm not a painter, and know nothing about paint, but I know what I like and I like the look of old paint, so for the one's that have offered help, many thanks.

 

Ebay hot rod flatz whatever color steel wool a few ware spots then wax turns kinda shiny like your trying to bring back the color and shine

 

I was told by a painter that he would paint a panel on a repair and then to make lose its shine to match the rest of the car he would park it outside the first night. In the colder air the dew would get on the car and it would be duller than if the paint was allowed to cure inside overnight.

I added a little flattener agent to single stage and it came out looking like a 5 or 10 year paint job on my 58 GMC. (Plus it hides my ****ty body work)

 

Do what the ROLLING BONES do, and you can't go wrong. They build, IMO, the best looking HOT RODS, and their cars don't have "the new paint look". What they do have is a paint job that looks as cool as hell, but is driver friendly.........another nick, so what. With a paint job like theirs, you can drive your HOT ROD just about every day, (or from coast to coast, as they do). That is something that most people are afraid to do with their "**** pile of money" paint jobs.

 

I toyed around with different paint schemes over the last 3 years, satin, rubbed through, faux patina, whatever you want to call it and this winter I bought a quart of Duplicolor gloss black and a quart of clear. I did the top of the left rear quarter, blocked it first, primed it, than sprayed the color and the clear. I waited 2 days, blocked it with 1000 grit wet and rubbed it. It looks fantastic. So when the weather warms up I'll have it ready to roll outside and paint the whole car, 3 coats, Henry Ford Black, 3 coats clear. I like some of the fake patina paint but like someone said, it's alot of work to make it look like you did'nt do alot of work. This way if I get tired of the "new" look I'll just wait 20 years and I'll have a old looking paint job.

 

Not to hi-jack the thread but would like to hear some ideas on this. My 55 was painted white i'm guessing within the last 25 years. There is no gloss to it, and it has yellowed and well, looks like it's been sitting for 25 years. The rocket scientist that had it before me cut two holes in the outside of the drivers door to get to the nuts on the back of the hinges since the welds came loose and they were just spinning. Rain got in this hole and completely rusted out the attatchment point for the lower hinge, ruining the door. I have an extra door for it but it's blue. I don't have the time to finish all the body work and paint it right now but I don't want a bright white door on a faded, yellowed paint job if I can help it. I shot the blue door flat white and have "dusted" it with an almond color but it still just doesn't look close enough. Next idea was to swap door skins. It was at this point that I decided that was ****ing retarded and I would just drive it as is and not worry about it. Any ideas? The whistleing sound from the holes is starting to get old.

 

Take it to your local paint store, they have a computer and scanner. They scan your existing paint and tint it to match. Then just add a little flatener to match the gloss. It may take a couple of tries to get the flattness correct so hang the door on the car where you can pull off the masking to compare gloss after it has a few to dry.

 

Just prime whatever door you put on and drive it like a work in progress. I had lots of cars back in the day that had a primer fender or door until I could get it all one color. It was common a**** the low bucks guys.

I have a freind that builds highend cars for the gold chain crowd for a living. he builds real hotrods for himself. he always has nice paint and always has had nice paint. he drives his cars anywhere.

one day we rolled out for a drive in a newley completed 24 cabriolet that he built for himself. He rolled into Wally World to get something I don't recall what. Parked right up in the middle of everyone else. I asked him if that was wise and he said well I built it the first time if anything happens to it I'll build it again.

That was 12 years ago, he still drive it like most people drive their econoboxes. it has a few nicks and a scratch or teo but it isn't hurt at all it just looks like a hotrod.

You don't have to cheap out on your finish to have a driver you just have to expect it to be like any other driver.

When I was little my dad put fenders on his roadster. His cars were always nice good paint good interiors etc. After about 6 months I noticed stars on the fenders and asked about them. he said those are from the tires throwing up pieces of gravle etc. The he said "always look at the fenders of a car that way you can tell if it gets driven. real cars get driven."

Perfect paint is like chome undercarriages, the only cars that you will ever see that are perfect all the time are trailer cars.

 

A simple way to do it is to just use enamel or tractor paint reduced with acetone. Prep the car as normal and shoot it. After it's dried rub it down with a grey scotchbrite pad.

If you want to get fancy you can dab a little petroleum jelly on a small brush along the leading edge's of the fenders & hood BEFORE you shoot it to simulate rock chips.

Some people will get their shorts all in a wad and tell you if you ever want to repaint it you have to sand it all down (duh?) or you can't clear over it, etc.

I've done both through the years with no issues. It's freakin' paint... It comes off... That's why it's called "paint".

It works on cars that have a clean original look that you want to maintain. Or maybe if you have a nice original interior with minor wear and new shiny paint just doesn't look right with the older interior.

My 32 Fordor body was rough and I don't have the time to kill myself on body work, especially on a fenderless car that's going to have a thousand rock chips in it by summers end anyway. Painting this way ain't for everybody or every car but it has it's place.

This is Oliver tractor green over red primer. I sanded through a little bit on the high places, added a little black in the creases to give it an "antiqued" look, and then cleared over it to give it some protection. Rubbed it down after it dried with a grey scotchbrite to kill the shine.

To each his own...

 

Don't You Just Love-it!
When A PLAN COMES TOGETHER??

"I never had "Paint" on MY first car!.....Did'nt have FIRST or REVERSE!!, for 2 yrs.
Second CAR? DIFFERENT STORY!


Smokin'........IN THA' SMOKIES, Bye

 

Thank You Sir....Thats what I'm lookin for.

 

I can understand to some extent you not wanting shiny paint if your body work ain't perfect, but trying to make good paint on a good body look old and worn will not fool many car guys .
My '51 had an OK shiny gold paint job when I bought it but the trouble was the body was not as perfect as it could have been and on the larger flat areas it showed, so I sanded the whole thing down very lightly, pinstriped the whole thing then sprayed it with clear flatner. Not a complete cure but it helped and I like how it has a satin look now, not primer or flat but more of a satin. I get a lot of compliments now and questions on how did I get that color and look.
I will bet you also get a lot of grief here on the H.A.M.B. over that question

 

Rub it and buff it ,I remember when I was new to buffing ,