If I can figure out exatly what the problem is it will stay in it. Could it be from putting ****** fluid in the oil? Just a half qt
Having been blessed to have been able to build and run high risers and tunnel ports, I'd have to say without shadow of doubt, I'd build an FE series in a moment. But sadly, they have been obsoleted for over 40 years. I've been faced with this very same conundrum; logistically, just what do you use from Fomoco to build ? If you've ever raced the best, it makes you heart sick to think about the alternatives. No other carbureted gasoline engine ran like a 427-TP or HR with a 428 CJ crankshaft. Not even the chrysler. 385 series........ugh, swap in a chevy. I to this day can not understand why a corporation like FMC would suddenly drop support out from under such a fabulous racing program like they had on stock car tracks as well as drag strips in the 1960 decade. Tom S. in Tn.
Instead of thinking about swapping this motor or that motor in, buying trick parts, and on and on, get what you have running well, learn how to maintain it properly, pick up some basic mechanical skills. Forget about engine swaps, and high $$ aftermarket parts, fix what you have, and learn how to keep it running properly. Honestly, at this point, I dont think you have enough background or experience to do an engine swap anyway, and thats not a put-down. But it sounds like you are having trouble getting and keeping the FE running, that right there tells me that you need to learn the basics first. 1) Change the oil and get the ATF out of the crankcase. Then if its still huffing white smoke, we can start to diagnose what is wrong with the FE (if anything) and you can learn to fix it. My advice would be to stop posting threads about swapping engines, or what cool parts you should buy, and stick to posting thread on getting the issues with what you have sorted out. You are distractling yourself from the issue at hand, which is getting the car sorted out and running well, so you can THEN make an informed decision as to whether the FE has enough performance to meet your expectations.
Bingo- don't panic yet, do the diligence and give it a good physical, make sure the points/plugs/wires/cap etc. are in good shape (you don't need to start replacing everything if it's in good shape) and it's tuned up right, fuel system clean, etc., get the ATF out of it and run some good oil with high ZDDP like Valvoline VR-1 or Brad Penn, and ask for help when you need it. You Gal will be at it's coolest with a good FE in it, don't give up on yours yet, 390's are tough beyotches, and not that expensive to rebuild when they need it. Always check the simple (and cheap) stuff first, and don't let the gloom 'n doomers talk you into a complete rebuild every time it burps..
with the detergents in it, it is supposed to clean out a decarbon an engine. a old mechanic friend of mine showed me by putting some in a engine with a noisy lifter and after it ran for a little while it went away. points are new, cap, rotor are new, carb is new, gas tank and sending unit is new. my last car had a hot aluminum headed 302 that was a strong runner. but in a much lighter car.
I had a 514 in the early 8's. 3 to a gallon. God, it would cost me a finner to roll around the block today.
Do not know about a street application, but if it is horse power the only way is the 460 with an after market block with big cubic inches (as the old saying goes there is NO subs***ution for cubic inches) and a set of reproduction Boss 429 heads (big cubic inches are needed to make the most of these heads)!
I voted for FE all the way. Not because they are a "better" engine, but because of the "it" factor that they have. I agonized with this for a bit when building my convertible because an FE cost so much more to build but in the end, I can know that it is much cooler to say that I have a 428 than a 460. If only I could say it was a 427...
You dont put it in the crankcase, you pour a little into the carb with the engine running at around 1500-2000 rpm. It cleans the carbon out of the combustion chamber, and, wait for it, blows out lots of white smoke.
I did that before I put the new carb on. I'm pretty sure it was just some ****** fluid that collected somewhere and blew out. But when it gets warm it is real hard to start. When it's cold it fires first time
When you say its hard to start, do you mean it has a hard time cranking over, or that you have to crank it for a long time and pump the gas alot?
Yea it kind of does both. It will start to spin fast then slow down and have to give it some gas. When it's cold I can reach in and just start it first spin. Don't have to pump it
After speaking with many builders of both FE and the 385 series and also based upon my own experiences in throwing fire at flame shows for the last 20 years, I decided to stick with the FE, then I found a builder who was familiar with the truck and what I do and built me a purpose built .030. 390 shortblock with all the goodies for the price of the pistons, sure couldn't beat that!!, it has 14,000 miles and countless hours of flaming on it now and with a built C-6, 3.73 gears, and soft compound hoosier 50's it gets 17 mpg combined......and it sees 7500 regularly during the shows.........and handles better than it runs.. and it runs great...... And the fire pic is just little street fire, the show fire is a bit more intense and way more expensive... it burns 3 gallons a minute.......
Ok so I believe that may have been the problem. I just took it on a trip and it did not smoke. But it still does the hard starting
When it gets warm after a little driving. It won't just turn over and start right off like it does when it's cold. It acts like the battery is dead and may not have enough juice to start it. And I have to pump it. Something I don't have to do when it's cold
Sounds like timing may be a little off. That, and the dreaded hot start problem. Obvious are good cables, then heat soaked started (shielding will help) then maybe back the timing a few degrees and see if it helps. If none of those help, probably the started getting weak or the battery losing a cell. I'd bet timing first and foremost, it's also the easiest to check.
Ok I'll check that first. The cables are all new and 2ga wire. Battery is in the trunk but the engine is grounded. I hope the battery is good, it's not even a year old optima.
Double check the quality of the ground, and might be too much initial advance. Probably a combination of the two.
12-14 degrees initial is a good start. Depends on how much mechanical your dizzy has. I am ***uming 20 degrees of mechanical advance and that it is all in at ~2800 RPM.
Does it crank slow or kick back? If it cranks slow, it could be the starter is getting too hot. If your headers hug the starter, sometimes it causes trouble when the car gets hot. If it kicks back, then it could be the initial timing as someone stated. If it is flooding, it could be boil over and a phenolic (sp?) spacer would help
The Jalopy Journal
