700r4/200-4R guys: was it worth doing?

If I was building a new ride ... I would most definately go with the automatic OverDrive ...
( in fact I am .... I have a 700R4 for my 49 Mercury M-47 pickup project )
but in a vehicle already up and running ... NO WAY ... unless it was just revving to high on the Interstate.

EXAMPLE ... when I built my 32 3W coupe ... I went with a 700R4 ... and I like it. I have a 3.50 gear in the rear end. My older built 32 Roadster ... has a Turbo 400 and a 3.00 gear. I will NEVER change the Turbo 400 out in the roadster for a overdrive unless the Turbo 400 fails ( not likely ). The Roadster and the 3W BOTH have the same engine combination and the fuel mileage is fairly close to each other. I believe the 32 3W is geared too high in overdrive . The engine is NOT in the maximum range for fuel mileage. The camshaft is too large. I have a 9 inch Ford rear end so changing the gear is a easy deal ... BUT with the 3.06 low first gear of the 700R4 ... and the 3.50 rear ratio ... any lower rear end ratio ... and the 430 HP would just blow the tires right off. It is hard to get it to HOOK now as it is. I am NOT changing the CAMSHAFT , I like the way it sounds. I believe the 32 roadster is actually QUICKER in a quarter of a mile than the coupe ... because it spins less and is geared better for street tires.

 

A question about usage in a heavy car used on the highway, specifically a '76 Cadillac:

With 500lb/ft torque, 235/75R15s and 2:73's in the rear, rpm on the highway would be, what, about 900?? In this case, would O/D even be feasible??

Can the 200R4 handle this (200 because of BOP pattern)??

Spend the money on MTS's MPG camshaft??

Cosmo

 

The '95 LWB G-30 gas 350/700r4 Van that I use to tow my 30' travel trailer, and a 3000+# Cotton Candy concession trailer now has well over 200k miles on it, tens of thousands of them ac***ulated while fully loaded and towing from Kentucky to Michigan and back.
Have performed two trans fluid and filter changes since 1997 and have never experienced a bit of transmission trouble.
I always tow in third gear, (direct drive), as I know I could burn up the trans within 10 miles using OD. Love and depend on my 700r4.

 

If its driven normally, it could survive...but it will have to be built right. I would think the lower first gear might actually be a detriment in that application. You'd need an adapter plate and a stand-alone box ($$$) to run it, but a 4L80E would be a better choice. BTW with either, with that gear ratio, you'll need a really mild cam...or it will lug just like one of the previous poster's. I can't imagine cruising at 900rpm!

 

My 87 GN 200-4R works ok, had a D5 convector in it, ordered a tighter unit, we'll see this spring.

If I was to do it a again I would run TH400 w/3.08's and a premium converter, preferably switch/pitch.

 

I traded the TH400 out of my BBC equipped 51 Caddy for a 7000r, even swap.

I picked up 3 mpg on the highway, from 15 to 18 - never had any problems.

If I had the dough or could find another 'swap' deal I'd put one in my daily driver '55 Chevy pickup in a skinny minute.

 

I switched a 700-R4 into my 77 Jaguar Coupe (4,200lbs) and saved a TON on gas. Where I live (during the winter) 99% of my driving is in 45-70MPH zones, and the OD locks up @ 42MPH..no lugging. If I step on the pedal, it just unlocks...no problem. In the car in my Avatar (2,200lbs) I used a Stock 86 Monte Carlo CZF 200-4R trans and torque converter (got both for $100). The engine is a blown 55 DeSoto Hemi and the rear gears are 9" Ford 3.70 Trac-Loc (the Monte Carlo rear was 3.73). The car turns 11.8/119. I did NOTHING to the 200-4R when I installed it, except change fluid/filter. The roadster is a dream to drive, both around town (35MPH), and on the highway at 55 to whatever. The gear ratio and spread are a lot more suited to the lighter 32 than a 700-R4 would be. I wouldn't consider any other transmissions for either car. Whenever I drive a 350 or 400 equipped car now, it seems like it's missing a gear. For an initial installation, go with the OD trans. Just my 2 cents...

 

I am totally satified with my 700R4.It gives me great low end response and the engine turns 2400 at 65 mph with 3.42 gears. For me its the best of both worlds.

 

I took a different route to get an overdrive trans. I had a TH350 in the car. I wanted an overdrive but I didn't want the trouble of the TV cable adjustment issues (yes, I know there are ways around that) and I didn't want to deal with the electronics of a locking torque convertor (and I looked forward to losing the trans cooler and lines too). I went with a T5 stick trans. Trans cost me $125 each (got a GM V8 T5 and a 4 cyl S10 for the tailshaft from the local wreckers), I had the flywheel, clutch, bellhousing and some linkage laying around, so apart from the obvious fabrication involved the only other cost to me was getting a driveshaft made.

I drive my car often (daily in the summer) and have no issues hitting the highway.

I realize this post was asking specifically about OD autos but I thought I'd post the route I took to get OD.

 

does anyone know the dimension comparison between the T350 and 200R (or of a site that might). I believe the ****** mounts are further back on the 200 by about 7".. but what about the diameter of the case. I am thinking of putting one in my 27 Modified project. I have a T350 to mock up right now but want to see how much large the 200R might be. (interior space will be a premium so I really do not want a much larger case. )

how wide is the ****** pan and depth?

I am running a mild 300hp 327 with 31" tall tires (Firestone dirt track). I am going with a QC so gearing has not been chosen yet). I am wanting a good hi way driver for cruising to California or other long distance events.

 

I thought the 350 and 200r4 were the same length with different mounts. The 200r4 is a smaller automatic its smaller than my 700r4 and lighter. At least seemed that way when I was moving them around a couple weeks ago. 700r4 is a little longer than the 200r4.

 

I don't like driving a car w/o one.. O/D for life

 

I'm getting a 700r from Cooke's Racing Automatics in Cowpens, SC built for $375. I have a 2200 stall converter from Bowtie Overdrives. I hope to put them in next week. I have the brake switch wiring (inside and out). Running 29" tires and a 3.08 rear right now. ******ing a t350 out. I also have the TV cable corrector for the Edelbrock carb. We'll see how it goes.

 

It's pretty wide and reaches fairly far back , kinda irreqular in shape, necessitating the relocation of the mount to a TH400 position.

I'll get some rough measurements up for you in a moment. Roughly the TH2004R is the same length as the TH350, but the OD part makes the tail kinda fat and stubby, think short tail Th400.

 

thanks Mad Mike. I guess my biggest concern is the diameter of the main body (or width) so I can determine how much bigger the ****** tunnel would have to be compares to the T350 I have..

 

The 200-4R is a good fit for a th350 replacement. Nearly a bolt in. Pick the right extension housing and use the right parts toconnect tbe tv cable and you will never look back.

 

I didn't measure the main body, but here are a few key notes...
-The Dipstick uses the top bolt on the P side of the bellhousing to mount. So depending on what engine the transmission is pulled from the BOP dip stick will not match up to the bolt on a SBC bell, and vice versa.
-The pan is 21" long and 12" wide(the whole underside of the trans), it favors the P side by 2.5" The last 5" of the pan is an offset triangle shape.
-(length segments)Last 7" is the rear snout. Rear mid section is 8 1/4", Front mid is 5" and then its the bellhousing. There are some strengthening ribs on the side at the 'front mid' section.

If you have any specific measurements you need or can take a photo of a TH350 and want to know where possibly interference points may be let me know. I do not have a TH350 laying around, just a couple of Th2004Rs.

 

Being based off the TH200, the TH2004R shares the same idiom of a single case. There is nothing to bolt or unbolt. It is the same length as a short tail shaft TH350/Long tail shaft PG. And uses the rear mount location of a TH400.

 

Just drove the F100 I bought from Bellingham to Tacoma , 350 with 700r4.. Man 70 mph... Didn't even hit the overdrive

 

have a TH700R4 in my sedan and love it. will change this spring from a 350 to another 700 in my camaro, too.
it's not the gas mileage. if you drive longer distances - as sayd - it's nearly the only may to go, well...besides a T5...

 

Why not use the OD?

 

I have the same questions/concerns as Bones. I am in the building stage of transmision tunel clearance for my coupe. I have a turbo 350 for mock up. But I am using a 700/r4 froor final install. I have the 700r4 in the donor vechicle in back yard but do not want to pull it out yet. I have made the rear treansmission mount adjustable to fit 4 different transmission. So do if I use the turbno 350 for mockup do I need to leave extra clearance Or how much clearance around the case for the 700r4 ?

 

When I built my cpe I used a T-350 after 5 yrs I went to the 700R and the only change to the car I had to make was the trans mount didn't even change the driveshaft. It is tighter fit but it's in there with no floor work.

 

What about hooking up a 4l80e trans? Any one try doing that?

 

I have done 13 now. What would you like to know?

 

Great question.
I currently have a mild cam 327 with a turbo 305 8"ford with 3.00 gear and 29" tall Coker L78 tires in my 32 5w coupe.
My 2008 truck has a4L80E with 29" tall tires and 3.73 gear and curises 65 at just under 2000 rpm.
My thinking is to put a 700R4 in the coupe with at least a 3.50 gear. Would like a 3.73 but dont think they make one for an 8".
Thinking it would be much better stop light to stop light and still maintain good rpm range at highway speed.
Am I thinking right?
Cost is hard to justify but I want a posi and more stoplight fun without highway sacrifice.

 

But its alot less wear on your engine also. You get a way better 1st gear launch and lower rpms on the freeway. So the fun factor also increases. Its a win win situation!!

 

I've saved a lot of gas money since I put mine in. It's had over 60,000 mi put on it. Heck three years ago on the way to Fl. gas was as high as $4.40 it really made a difference on that trip. Say what you want but if you drive it it will pay to put the OD in.

 

I like the way my 200r4 performs in my nova I have a 355 a little over 400hp,3.42 rear.I have car setup to have everything in by 2600rpm.The car pulls hard from line and when on highway runs around 1900 at 55mph.I am happy.The one thing you have to get use to is sometimes the ****** searches for gear if you don,t stay steady with the pedal pressure.I think I will look into the manual valve body ,I would feel safer then using cable.

 

Hmm I run a 3.42 gear and have never had my 700R trans hunt. It goes into OD at about 45mph and stays there until I get back down to about 40 mph. I run around 2100rpm at 70 mph