Best street cam for a 390 FE?

there is no replacement for displacement

you might want to do a stroker kit for 1500 to $1900,, it will let you turn more rpm and have lots more power,,,stock rods do not like rpms

this is just a cut and paste,,,

http://www.flatlanderracing.com/strokerford-390430.html

http://www.survivalmotorsports.com/FE-Engine-Kits.html

<TABLE border=0 cellSpacing=0 cellPadding=0 width=427 height=199><TBODY><TR><TD height=20 vAlign=top width=381 colSpan=6> 445 ci - 390 FE Stroker Kit<!--$end exclude$--></TD><TD height=20 width=2></TD><SCRIPT>tableWorkaround2(20)</SCRIPT><TD height=20></TD></TR><TR><TD height=7 width=427 colSpan=9></TD><SCRIPT>tableWorkaround2(7)</SCRIPT><TD height=7></TD></TR><TR><TD height=134 width=7></TD><TD height=134 vAlign=top width=413 colSpan=6><!--$addOn fontColor=000000publish.local=falsefontFace=Arialitalic=trueformat=textfontSize=14addOn=resource\:/resources/addons/store/caption/caption.addonproductId=****-budget-4250-fe-stroker-kitraw.previewText=CaptionmandatoryField=productIdbold=trueunderline=falsetarget=productField=captionpreviewText=The best way to get big power from your 390\! **** 9000 series ductile iron stroker crankshaft Your choice of Probe pistons - dished for 9.8\:1 compression with 72cc heads or flat tops - 10.8\: compression (Both only available in 4.080 bore - .030 over), **** 6.700 I beam rods with ARP 8740 bolts, Moly rings, Main and rod bearings, Internally balanced - use your stock flexplate or flywheelhref=addOn.cl***=com.yahoo.sitebuilder.elements.StoreCustomElementobject.cl***=string$--><!--$begin exclude$-->The best way to get big power from your 390! **** 9000 series ductile iron stroker crankshaft Your choice of Probe pistons - dished for 9.8:1 compression with 72cc heads or flat tops - 10.8: compression (Both only available in 4.080 bore - .030 over), **** 6.700 I beam rods with ARP 8740 bolts, Moly rings, Main and rod bearings, Internally balanced - use your stock flexplate or flywheel<!--$end exclude$--></TD><TD height=134 width=7 colSpan=2></TD><SCRIPT>tableWorkaround2(134)</SCRIPT><TD height=134></TD></TR><TR><TD height=1 width=427 colSpan=9></TD><SCRIPT>tableWorkaround2(1)</SCRIPT><TD height=1></TD></TR><TR><TD height=5 width=296 colSpan=5></TD><TD height=29 vAlign=top rowSpan=3 width=123><!--$addOn mandatoryField=productIdfontColor=000000formId=Form37publish.local=falseorderText=Order NowaddOn.cl***=com.yahoo.sitebuilder.elements.StoreOrderElementaddOn=resource\:/resources/addons/store/order/order.addonproductId=****-budget-4250-fe-stroker-kit$--><!--$begin exclude$--><INPUT onclick="do***ent.forms['Form37'].action='http://order.store.yahoo.net/yhst-49878277102112/cgi-bin/wg-order?yhst-49878277102112+****-budget-4250-fe-stroker-kit'; do***ent.forms['Form37'].method='post'" value="Order Now" type=submit><!--$end exclude$--></TD><TD height=5 width=8 colSpan=3></TD><SCRIPT>tableWorkaround2(5)</SCRIPT><TD height=5></TD></TR><TR><TD height=20 width=199 colSpan=3></TD><TD height=20 vAlign=top width=75><!--$addOn fontColor=000000publish.local=falsefontFace=Arialitalic=falseformat=htmlfontSize=14addOn=resource\:/resources/addons/store/productPrice/productPrice.addonproductId=****-budget-4250-fe-stroker-kitmandatoryField=productIdbold=trueunderline=falsetarget=productField=pricepreviewText=$1,950.00href=addOn.cl***=com.yahoo.sitebuilder.elements.StoreCustomElementobject.cl***=string$--><!--$begin exclude$-->$1,950.00</TD></TR></TBODY></TABLE>

http://www.carcraft.com/techarticles/ccrp_0808_ford_390_fe/index.html

 

Make that two of us for the 6250-C , that was the Cobra Jet camshaft and ran like a bat out of hell. I worked on these for years at a local Police dept and thats what we ran in all our cars. The profile is being copied by many of the cam guys........

 

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cl***=Spec><INPUT style="WIDTH: 135px" id=ctl00_ContentPlaceHolder1_CamSpecsDetails21_TBValveTiming cl***=SpecBox value=0.006 readOnly name=ctl00$ContentPlaceHolder1$CamSpecsDetails21$TBValveTiming> </TD><TD cl***=SpecLabel>Duration:</TD><TD cl***="Spec Intake"><INPUT style="WIDTH: 135px" id=ctl00_ContentPlaceHolder1_CamSpecsDetails21_TBDurationIntake cl***=SpecBox value=274 readOnly name=ctl00$ContentPlaceHolder1$CamSpecsDetails21$TBDurationIntake> </TD><TD cl***="Spec Exhaust"><INPUT style="WIDTH: 135px" id=ctl00_ContentPlaceHolder1_CamSpecsDetails21_TBDurationExhaust cl***=SpecBox value=286 readOnly name=ctl00$ContentPlaceHolder1$CamSpecsDetails21$TBDurationExhaust> </TD></TR><TR><TD cl***=SpecLabel noWrap>Lobe-Center Angle:</TD><TD cl***=Spec><INPUT style="WIDTH: 135px" id=ctl00_ContentPlaceHolder1_CamSpecsDetails21_TBLobeSeparationAngle cl***=SpecBox value=110 readOnly name=ctl00$ContentPlaceHolder1$CamSpecsDetails21$TBLobeSeparationAngle> </TD><TD cl***=SpecLabel>Duration @ .050" Lift:</TD><TD cl***="Spec Intake"><INPUT style="WIDTH: 135px" id=ctl00_ContentPlaceHolder1_CamSpecsDetails21_TBDuration050Intake cl***=SpecBox value=230 readOnly name=ctl00$ContentPlaceHolder1$CamSpecsDetails21$TBDuration050Intake> </TD><TD cl***="Spec Exhaust"><INPUT style="WIDTH: 135px" id=ctl00_ContentPlaceHolder1_CamSpecsDetails21_TBDuration050Exhaust cl***=SpecBox value=236 readOnly name=ctl00$ContentPlaceHolder1$CamSpecsDetails21$TBDuration050Exhaust> </TD></TR><TR><TD cl***=SpecLabel noWrap>Intake Centerline:</TD><TD cl***=Spec><INPUT style="WIDTH: 135px" id=ctl00_ContentPlaceHolder1_CamSpecsDetails21_TBIntakeCenterline cl***=SpecBox value=106 readOnly name=ctl00$ContentPlaceHolder1$CamSpecsDetails21$TBIntakeCenterline> </TD><TD cl***=SpecLabel>Valve Lift:</TD><TD cl***="Spec Intake"><INPUT style="WIDTH: 135px" id=ctl00_ContentPlaceHolder1_CamSpecsDetails21_TBValveLiftIntake cl***=SpecBox value=0.562 readOnly name=ctl00$ContentPlaceHolder1$CamSpecsDetails21$TBValveLiftIntake> 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cl***=RedHeading>Specifications</TD><TD> </TD><TD cl***=style21> </TD><TD cl***="SpecLabel Intake">Intake</TD><TD cl***="SpecLabel Exhaust">Exhaust</TD></TR><TR><TD cl***=SpecLabel>RPM Range:</TD><TD cl***=Spec><INPUT style="WIDTH: 135px" id=ctl00_ContentPlaceHolder1_CamSpecsDetails21_TBRPMRange cl***=SpecBox value="1800 to 6000" readOnly name=ctl00$ContentPlaceHolder1$CamSpecsDetails21$TBRPMRange> </TD><TD cl***=SpecLabel>Valve Lash:</TD><TD cl***="Spec Intake"><INPUT style="WIDTH: 135px" id=ctl00_ContentPlaceHolder1_CamSpecsDetails21_TBValveLashIntake cl***=SpecBox value=Hyd. readOnly name=ctl00$ContentPlaceHolder1$CamSpecsDetails21$TBValveLashIntake> </TD><TD cl***="Spec Exhaust"><INPUT style="WIDTH: 135px" id=ctl00_ContentPlaceHolder1_CamSpecsDetails21_TBValveLashExhaust cl***=SpecBox value=Hyd. readOnly name=ctl00$ContentPlaceHolder1$CamSpecsDetails21$TBValveLashExhaust> </TD></TR><TR><TD cl***=SpecLabel>Valve Timing:</TD><TD cl***=Spec><INPUT style="WIDTH: 135px" id=ctl00_ContentPlaceHolder1_CamSpecsDetails21_TBValveTiming cl***=SpecBox value=0.006 readOnly name=ctl00$ContentPlaceHolder1$CamSpecsDetails21$TBValveTiming> </TD><TD cl***=SpecLabel>Duration:</TD><TD cl***="Spec Intake"><INPUT style="WIDTH: 135px" id=ctl00_ContentPlaceHolder1_CamSpecsDetails21_TBDurationIntake cl***=SpecBox value=274 readOnly name=ctl00$ContentPlaceHolder1$CamSpecsDetails21$TBDurationIntake> </TD><TD cl***="Spec Exhaust"><INPUT style="WIDTH: 135px" id=ctl00_ContentPlaceHolder1_CamSpecsDetails21_TBDurationExhaust cl***=SpecBox value=286 readOnly name=ctl00$ContentPlaceHolder1$CamSpecsDetails21$TBDurationExhaust> </TD></TR><TR><TD cl***=SpecLabel noWrap>Lobe-Center Angle:</TD><TD cl***=Spec><INPUT style="WIDTH: 135px" id=ctl00_ContentPlaceHolder1_CamSpecsDetails21_TBLobeSeparationAngle cl***=SpecBox value=110 readOnly name=ctl00$ContentPlaceHolder1$CamSpecsDetails21$TBLobeSeparationAngle> </TD><TD cl***=SpecLabel>Duration @ .050" Lift:</TD><TD cl***="Spec Intake"><INPUT style="WIDTH: 135px" id=ctl00_ContentPlaceHolder1_CamSpecsDetails21_TBDuration050Intake cl***=SpecBox value=230 readOnly name=ctl00$ContentPlaceHolder1$CamSpecsDetails21$TBDuration050Intake> </TD><TD cl***="Spec Exhaust"><INPUT style="WIDTH: 135px" id=ctl00_ContentPlaceHolder1_CamSpecsDetails21_TBDuration050Exhaust cl***=SpecBox value=236 readOnly name=ctl00$ContentPlaceHolder1$CamSpecsDetails21$TBDuration050Exhaust> </TD></TR><TR><TD cl***=SpecLabel noWrap>Intake Centerline:</TD><TD cl***=Spec><INPUT style="WIDTH: 135px" id=ctl00_ContentPlaceHolder1_CamSpecsDetails21_TBIntakeCenterline cl***=SpecBox value=106 readOnly name=ctl00$ContentPlaceHolder1$CamSpecsDetails21$TBIntakeCenterline> </TD><TD cl***=SpecLabel>Valve Lift:</TD><TD cl***="Spec Intake"><INPUT style="WIDTH: 135px" id=ctl00_ContentPlaceHolder1_CamSpecsDetails21_TBValveLiftIntake cl***=SpecBox value=0.562 readOnly name=ctl00$ContentPlaceHolder1$CamSpecsDetails21$TBValveLiftIntake> </TD><TD cl***="Spec 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>http://www.compcams.com/Company/CC/cam-specs/Details.aspx?csid=939&sb=2

 

I would stay away from the dual pattern cams. If you want it for highway use keep it simple and run a 268H or 270H. I would lean toward the 268 for your setup and goals. As stated above go with the kit, cam, lifters, and springs. Someone mentioned going +.080 on a 390 block. That would put you almost in the water jacket. Mike

 

The C8AX-6250-C was NOT the 390GT/428CJ cam, it was a slight upgrade that ran pretty decent and would make a little noise, I used a few in 4x4's "way back" when we were still shopping from the old "Muscle Parts" and "Hi-Per Parts" catalogs- specs at 282/296 duration, .500 lift across- and yes, it would have made a good open-road cop car cam. The 390GT/428CJ cam is C6OZ-6250-B, and specs at 270/290 duration, .481/.490 lift.
Modern cams have much faster opening and closing ramps for more area under the curve, and can make most of the the old stuff look pretty sad

 

Id say your goal of 360 HP will happen, I mean the solid lifter 352's were right around that number, and like people have said theres no replacement for displacement.

I would just do a rebuild, bore if need be and pick a cam. Theres many opinions on FE cams out there, so you may be best off talking to a few cam companys and tell them your set up. Hoenstly if you get something thats not a crazy race cam and you do all the basic stuff you should hit the numbers you want. And it will look slick with three 2's on it.

Read up on the two FE books, one is how to build max performance FE's and the other is on rebuilding ford big blocks. Ive got them both and theres great info in them. The max performance book has alot of good pictures and information on gasket matching and installing the intake which is very nice.

I put up some cam question stuff on network54's web site and got the same response, alot of people have used alot of cams so you get 10+ recomendations. Hope this helps some.

 

Do fe's like a closer duration?

 

You have a lot ot learn about FE's.

 

Some will go there, some are iffy after .030- the only way to know for sure is to sonic test it. And even if it will go .080, with a 3.98 crank giving you that oboyIgotta428 number, at .030 it'll give you a 416 with stronger cylinder walls, pistons are easy to get (390 pickups used 410 pistons down in the hole for reduced compression) and still have a couple bore jobs left- and if you want to try and tell me you can tell the difference between a 416 and a 428 in a street car, I'll tell you to lay off the 'ludes. A lot the "NOS" 427 blocks still floating around are core-shifted rejects that got away. Saw one about 6 months ago that was sonic'd and wouldn't even run at standard, should have been s****ped when cast- looked great, but the bore cores were way off center- real thick on one side, almost nothing on the other

 

Actually there are more than a few 360/390 blocks out there that will go .080 over(a select few will go even more than that), and alot of them were used in applications other than what most guys would expect. There are also more usable 428 cranks than blocks floating around as most original 428s are all done at .030 over. its much easier and cheaper to build a std. bore 428 from a 390 than it is to find a 428 that is still buildable, especially now that Probe is selling std. bore forged 428 flat-tops. Looks like Mike at Probe has figured this out too. Fairly easy to visually pre-sort the blocks that are good candidates for sonic testing as well, but then if I start throwing that info around, then there will be more compe***ion for the good cores, so I'll keep my mouth shut on that count. Call me selfish.

 

FWIW, I have a 390 block in my garage right now that has been sonic tested as having enough wall thickness to go .110. Nuff said.

 

Jeff, when you talk about trips, do you mean a factory 390/406 intake with three holleys, or an old edelbrock with 3 bolt "97 type" carbs? Either of the triple holley 390/406 intakes would be leaving very little if anything, on the table compared to an RPM and 4bbl. REALLY good intake for the kind of application you are describing, but NOT cheap.

The t-bird intake is a little shorter than the Galaxy intake.

 

Ok guys no need to get all in a technical Q and A session here. All the man wanted was just a "good street cam". Since he didnt state that he had a solid cam motor and its a 390 then its probably just a run of the mill hyd standard compression 390. No need to get wild and crazy with some exotic FE cam here.

These are my choices for a good street cam:

Comp Cams 268H

Comp Cams XE262H

Lunati VooDoo 268 (totally *****in street, also would be good with the tri power)

 

OK, George, we gotta shut up now, the thread police have arrived LOL
A 268H a hot street cam? Really? Guess I need to downsize all my stuff
Would be really good for towing g**** gondolas, though, eh fellow Napkin?
BTW, I sold one of my 3x2 intakes, but still have 3, so I could probably spare one- I'd like to keep one for each of the '62's

 

Really. I pretty much just ignore most of the 'engine tech" posts on the HAMB, and his post is the reason why. Cam recommendations on here always seem to be something like "my uncle had this cam in his car, and it sounded KEWL!' I was just thinking yesterday that I need to keep a lower profile on engine tech threads on the HAMB, this is a solid reminder of that. I have a sign on the wall in my shop that says "Ignorance is bliss, who am I to screw with anyones happiness."

 

Gene, I am with ya on that 268h. Got one in a '66 shortblock with D2 truck heads, (slight port work, CJ valves), in my '71 F100. 1-3/4 headers, "T" intake, Holley 3310-1. Great for towing but it isn't a "hot street" cam by any means. Very slight notice at idle.

 

I rebuilt my 390fe in my 62 galaxie xl in 07.FPA long tube headers,holley 650,crane 901 cam kit 9.5 to 1 hypereutectic pistons com ******.mild street build.no problems so far.

 

Yeah, just poking a little fun at my neighbor, but still- I think Jeff is looking for something a bit nastier for his car. Myself, I like the way those big '62 taillights shake up and down about an inch when it idles- take a bit more stick for that

 

How do you like the FPA's? I have the ******s that wrap around the frame with slip tubes on the 427 in the 406 car

 

HELLO Gene[/QUOTE]

Something get your attention ROFL???
Does your engine sit level, or tilted to the rear? Got Bird and Galaxie setups

 

Just so happens I have this real nice 427/454 stroker street engine I'm going to sell (actually have 2 454's, keeping the high-compression one), Eagle rods, Ross custom 10.25's, .600 lift Ultradyne cam, Edelbrock heads, big oil pump & shaft, nice engine. It'd be real easy to swap to some early low-riser type heads that would match up with the "long" ports of a 3x2
Wanna make some noise with the big boyz- or ya wanna tow boatz 'n pull gondolas???
Also have an nice C6 I could part with, and some nice leetle converters hehehe

 

I ran a 256/263 108 lda .653" Ultradyne solid in my 428, with ported C1AE's and a re-worked Porto-Sonic and a 1050, ran pretty good. My favorite 10" converter cam, I have used the same profile in a couple BB chevies with 10" converters, fat mid-range, really strong from 4000-6000. I used a lot of Ultradyne stuff when they were in business. Did you deal much with Harold? Smart guy, REALLY knew his stuff. Get him on the phone and the ideas would really flow. He is on his own again, just in case you didnt know.

 

I ran a Crower 297HDP in my '69 428SCJ and loved it. Its a hydraulic dual pattern cam with 236/244 dur@.050" and .588" lift. It pulls to 6500RPM no problem, gets 14mpg and runs easy 12's if you bolt on slicks. I ran 3.91 gears and actually dropped a couple mpg when I swapped in 3.50's. Its got a sweet 'hamburger stand' idle and is able to back it up the sound with killer mid-range pull.

It might be a little much for a 390 with stock heads - with an automatic you'll want a mild converter in it too. Any FE with over .500" lift is going to need adjustable rocker arms and the appropriate push rods. Plan on it if you're cam is that big....and don't listen to the techmonkeys at the cam companies when it comes to FE's either. They (Comp) (at least used to) would tell you that you don't need adjustables with the 268H (.530" lift). ....dead wrong. Make sure you run the right valve springs for the cam (regardless of your choice) and make sure the heads are machined for adequate guide/seal to retainer clearance, proper spring fit and installed height. You'd be suprised at the number of people who just throw caution to the wind when ***embling FE's.

We've done a couple street friendly FE's with the Comp Extreme Energy cams. They work pretty nice and give you a nice idle too. The XE268H is a nice all around street cam. If you want to step it up a bit the XE274 meets in the middle between my Crower cam and the XE268.

MeanGene is spot on with his FE stuff. Listen and learn......but also remember less is more when it comes to cams in nice running street friendly daily driven motors. There is a big difference between 'streetable' and wanting to live with it every day.

-Bigchief.

 

I put a Holman Moody hydraulic real similar to that one in a '68 390GT Cougar many moons ago, replacing the little Crower Monarch potato cam that the speed shop that built the engine had put in it- you could say it came to life LOL
Bingo on the "streetable"- when a guy says very streetable, but then mentions the 4.57 gears and required loose converter, yeah, OK. I've run almost .700 lift on the street, and my Galaxie has 5.14 gears with a 4000 converter behind the 427, and sure, I drive it on the street- but would I describe it as "streetable"? C'mon, pull the other one And sorry, but that antiquated 324/500 cam is a MAJOR dog in a street car with "normal" gears- all bark and no torque.
BTW, a good 427 w/5.14's in a battleship Galaxie with big tires is absolutely devastating to the brainwashing of your average kid in a Camaro who's been given the full "rah rah Chebbie" treatment

 

Not too far off what I was thinking about. Looked it up(aint Google great?) That cam is on a 112lda, would be good if the compression is up in the 10.5+ range. The cams I have been looking at have been in the 235-245 range. I was looking at a Crane H298, ***uming he wants a hyd. Its a single pattern, 236 .572 108, With the intake he has, I think power is going to fall off like a rock past 6000 rpm, the tighter lda is going to build more power between peak torque and peak hp, with a curve that is going to drop off pretty sharply past the power peak, which I would figure is probably going to come somewhere around 5500-5700 rpm with the intake he is running. A cam with a wider lda is going to give up a bit of power between peak torque and peak hp, and also have lower cranking compression, due to the later intake closing point. What you will get back on the wider lda deal is that the cam will hold on to power longer after it has peaked, and a smoother idle with higher manifold vacuum. With the intake he is running, I think a wider lda will give up some mid-range torque, but the intake will prevent him from taking advantage of the wider lda's ability to make power past 6000. The 108 lda is going to idle a little rougher and pull a little less idle vacuum that a cam on a wider lda, but I think the tighter lda will work better in a combo like his that is somewhat intake restricted.

 

Once you put a blower on this, your'e gonna have to change the cam anyways! ;-)

 

Kinda got cut short on my earlier post, I would also run an 11" converter with the cam i recommended. I have set up several 509 purple shafts in 383 mopars, which are actually a little bigger than this (244/108 lda) and with 10/1, 16-18 degrees initial, a 6.5 power valve and .065 holes drilled in the primary throttle plates, and careful tuning, I am able to get a quite smooth, 650 rpm idle in gear, so properly tuned, this would be a pretty streetable cam.

I would also be willing to put money on the factory triple holley intake being quite a bit better than the edelbrock and rochesters. The factory tripower is a really good intake for a mild/moderate street combo.