Hot Rods Roadster rattletrap

Hello, I drive a original stock boddied 30 roadster that is mounted on a total performance perimeter frame. I have had it for 18 years and built it myself as well as several other cars. I have been driving it for about 5 years. Our roads in western mass are horrible. They are made for mules and not cars. My question is: What fixes cowl shake and door rattles? Is it frame flex or lack of bracing in the body? I can never recall in reading magazines for 35 years anyone addressing this. Now I see why old timers welded doors shut and channeled cars. I have to slow down to a crawl on these roads and let the econo junks pass me!!!

Thanks Fellas, John

 

matchbooks, chunks of wood, large stereo and bungee cords are what ive used in the past.

 

You say cowl shake and door rattles like it's a problem. Gregg

 

They don't call them a "Rattle A" for nothing . . .

That being said, come cowl bracing and a little bracing behind the seat do help, along with tight door latches and good rubber bumpers.

 

Thanks, I put bearclaw latches and weatherstripping in it and it helped but I'll have to try the bracing. I just hate having to just about stop for every imperfection in the road. I would like to put it on a 32 frame someday with some good crossmembers but I have 2 other cars in a million pieces in my garage.
Guess I shouldn't complain too much. It's a cool car and the real deal.

 

i used to truck the roads in your area years ago, what are you running for tires and how much air?

 

It's all part of the 'charm' of driving an 80+ year old car

im driving mine to work in the morning.......


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I've got radials with 14's in the front and 15's in the back. I run about 32 pounds in them.

 

Don't beat me up for getting off topic, but I sure would like to hear the details on the bear claw latch install. Got a '29 rpu I'd like to install them in.

Bob

 

Installing the latches was a lot of work! I bought the smaller of the 2 latches that are available. I took out the stock latch and gutted it. I mounted the bearclaw behind the stock gutted latch and ground out the area for the latch mechanism. This was all trial and error. Cut and install, cut and install, etc. You also have to make a return spring for the latch to have the right feel to it. I also had to modify and line up the latch for the stock handles to work. The stud on the door jamb is tricky. I had to remove the wood from the jamb first. I then closed the door and stuck a pencil through the latch and made a mark to drill on the doorjamb. Measure twice, cut once!!! Then install the stud. Grind out the wood and done. I can take a picture tommorrow, The car is buried but I can get to it easily. Take care, John

 

Drop your air pressure about eight pounds. That will help.

 

Take off your mufflers, then you can't hear anything.

 

shake rattle and roll..im sure that song wasnt no accident

 

i probably don't have to tell you not to rest your arm on the gap between the door and rear body.

 

Check out Brookville. They sell rubber bumpers for your doors and deck lid. They are made to take up any gaps and really tighten up the doors after they are closed. I can't stand that metal banging noise either. Cowl shake? Do you have wood mounts or rubber? Installing some signature megaphone Zombie Hot Rod lake pipes will make all your problems disappear.. Then you will have a really loud, metal banging, cowl shakin, Hot Rod..

 

Western Massachusetts you say?
You should try Eastern Massachusetts for BAD ROADS. They must be the ultimate worse of any roads in America.
My street in the affluent town of Winchester hasn't been repaved in over 40 years that I've lived on that street.
Every road within the 128/95 beltway will knock your brains out if driven over 25 miles per hour.
I run my tire pressure down to about 22 pounds to soften the jolting and crashing encountered in Massachusetts. I doubled up on the door weather strips, thrown arm loads of insulation into places you cant imagine.
I've welded lots of tubing around the bodies of all my cars, installed roll bars, added sound deadener, tried ear plugs and loud radio volume. Every little bit helps.
After all remember most of our cars are home built and crowding 60-80 years old.
They will not handle and sound as quiet as a new soundproofed hi-tek suspended Euro/ Asian/ Big 3 thing you can pay for in 60 month installments.

My best solution.......MOVE TO ARIZONA as soon as feasible.

 

I was going to say drop the pressure to about 26. That is what I put in the radial in Pontiacs in the early/mid 70s to get a smoother ride for picky customers. But If I was closer I'd run down the road with you in my 30mpg box with wheels and you couldn't hear your A rattle over my white thing.

 

Think you have it bad----every year the truckers vote Pa as the state with the worst roads and most orange cones!

Whats the lowest pressure you can run safely with bias tube type tires?

 

I run 20psi front and rear on my 30 A Roadster with raidals.

Rocky.

 

looks like low tire pressue gets the vote for tonight.

 

Pictures if possible would be great!

Bob

 

After my one & only build ('33 Ford truck), I expected it to have a jarring ride, but it's fairly smooth...I expected it to pull left & right, but it tracks very straight...I expected it to be hot as hell (with no insulation & a raw metal interior), but it's not hot at all...I expected it to run hot (with no electric fan), but it runs 170 all day...I expected the doors to be quiet (since I installed all new rubber, glass, channels, etc.) BUT THE DOORS ARE AS LOUD AS HELL!

 

I agree

 

John
Having assembled my roadster from parts I can tell you what I did.
First I made 2 chains and turnbuckle Assembly's and criss crossed them behind the seat attaching them to the flange on the piece that is above the deck lid to a Eye on the bottom body frame.
Second I made pieces of wood, Mines on a deuce frame, to go between the body and the frame so the body has no real gap between the body and the frame.
Third I took 1 1/2 Angle iron and sliced it until I could form it up under the body at the top running from the door to the center section. I then welded it all up and bolted it to the body. My body does not move at all and the doors where they meet the body do not move. It was a lot of work but in the end it was worth it.

 

Great advice, Thanks guys, I am on my way out to take pictures and will post them soon!!!! John

 

Here are a couple pictures. had a hard time loading them . See if it works!

 

Here is a couple more. You can see part of my 57 Ford. I bought in in high school in april of '81 as a stupid kid. It had been a 60's hot rod. Restoring it now back to a 60's hot rod. I also am painting my "86 Mustang GT conv. It's an 80's thing. I had much fun in the 80's !!!!!!!!!!!!!! Thanks John

 

Great looking roadster.
Seems like a good frame "X" memember my help too[could be a bolt in]. Plus I had a plywood devider between my seat and the trunk that was a very good fit with some box tube bracing in cowl.
Are head lights as out of adjustment as much as it looks in photo?

 

Now, there's 20/20 memory! My Dad's '29 Roadster got me the first time I drove it...
Damn, that pinched!

 

Yeah the headlights are pointed too high. When I modified the headlight bar I welded it on a angle. will fix it someday.
Its funny to hear about pinching your arm in the door! I have done that many times, Hurts.
Thanks again for all the advice.