May 2011 Banger Meet Spring has sprung now drive'm

The redeeming quality of that trans under load sounded like a supercharged miller coming out of the turn, those trucks also had to go downhill in the same gear, just when you think that the pitch can't get any higher it proves you wrong. I am putting a truck trans in my model A tractor, it now has back to back 3 speeds. If one was to put a 4 speed in a passenger car you might have to install a 3 point hitch too! pat

 

I think you should first ask why he would want to do this. The first dune buggies, or doodle bugs, as some call them that I remember were built in the inland valley portion of southern california and were based on the model "A" and used the "AA" four speed usually with a later Ford or Studebaker top as the "AA" has a lever controlled reverse lock pout the later tops have a spring loaded lockout. They were rock crawlers in compound or first gear. The cars were based on a shortened "A" frame. It was not too long before more RPM's were needed so the cars quickly morphed into the light weight dune buggies with water cooled engines such as Renault and other small imports. Then VW's.

Notice that I wrote "That I remember"! I had a Model "A" tractor built with an "AA" 4 speed.

 

Finally added a copy of the George Riley Racing Scrapbook and California Bill's Four Barrel Manual to my collection!

 

That's a picture of my roadster's front end. The second spring leaf is also modified in that it was shortened (removed the tips) to make room for the reverse spring. It still provides a decent suspension but it sure does get the Model A front end lowered when used with a dropped axle. You should see it with the fenders on, it looks great!

 

thanks for your description of the 4 speed.

As to why do it - its what I have found to buy, when the idea was to try to get the car on the road as a " stocker" without having to visit an engineer in order to get it registered (licenced) out here. It costs between $1-$3k for the report.

I have the AA bellhousing needed for this gearbox, CDO sold it to me with the T5 adapter as seen in last months banger thread. I still need a diagram of the clutch disc, so I can get one made in a 26 spline to suit the Camaro/ S10 T 5 I have. This conversion would be fitted after registration to avoid the hassles.

 

For those of you that will be in Socal the first week in June, it's time for the Antique Nats:

 

I like your thinking on the bypassing the engineer crap ,,its a rort,,,if your running a stock engine do you think you would get grief on the open drive conversion? would the roadworthy man know? i thought with a stock engine you wouldnt need one ,,i am doing a 3 speed toploader mustang type conversion to my sons A coupe ,got the AA B/H ,Jeep shift ,just gotta get a trans. now ,want to do closed drive ,so the roady man wont know ,,although now that we put oil in the stock gearbox it changes good ,,,

 

I sold a 3 speed top-loader to a guy in NSW - always the way isn't it????

Wanna sell the old 3 speed??

 

Hey Guys been lurking for a while but had nothing to contribute but now have a question.

I stopped at a garage sale and I picked up this head with the Ansen water pump adapter. I don't recognize the pump but since there seems to be no provision for a fan I am not sure what the setup would be for. The outlet points to the side and down so maybe for a drag setup with no radiator? The adapter has slots instead of holes on the lower part.

I was thinking that if the pump is OK (it turns freely) it would be good for a future electric fan set up or would a different pump be better.

The head is also interesting in that it has that tapped and plugged hole. The tag on top says 12-28-?36. It doesn't appear to have any cracks but the rust is heavy so I think it is a boat anchor.


I also picked up an early (maybe aftermarket or repop not really sure) oil pan with a baffle and an oil pump access hole but no cover and a couple of broken bolts that would be pretty easy to get out. It is stamped steel, not cast. The rust is only surface with no pitting so I was going to clean it up and use it after making a new plate and drain hole.

 

The pump looks like a "B" Model pump but with the wrong pulley.
The flange under the pulley should be drilled for a fan to bolt on.

John

 

I thought that too at first when I saw it. I thought the B water pumps were and open frame like the A just shorter and 3 bolt.

 

Early V8 water pump just rotate it up for stock A head radiator hose. Early 28 pan with oil pump access hole. Gaskets and bolt kit are available from most suppliers (I think)

 

Thanks Bill,

It just didn't quite look right for the B pump.

John

 

The water pump is a '32-'36 V-8 car water pump. The truck pump has a two grove pulley. I'm using one on mine.

Oil pan is early '28.



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That is a nice setup.
Is that temps from both in and out of the block? If so, how much delta?

John

 

Thanks CDO if the pump checks out then I definitely am going to keep it for a future electric fan conversion. Anything I should be aware of about the pump?

Bill- Snyders has the gasket but I haven't found the plug and or plate.

Any advantage to the early pan other than oil pump access? Can't remember if the stock pan has a baffle or not, does it help or hurt? It certainly is lighter.

 

No data from the inlet. It is just a switch for the electric fan.

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I don't think there is any special info about these pumps. They can be rebuilt and they have an internal seal.

The baffle/dip tray is different then the later pans. The later baffle has a larger well for each of the rods to draw oil from.

The pump access cover allows you to clean the sludge that settles in that well over time. That's the only advantage I see.

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I have a stock "A" chassis under my 27' Touring. I am going to put a reverse eye spring and a 36' axle under the front to get it down. What is the best or easiest way to lower the rear 3"?

 

Assuming those are 16" wheels in the back, I'd say that the easiest way would be to put 10" wheels and tires in the back.

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I ran without the baffle tray for a while and ran one with holes in the dipper wells but then I noticed "scuff" marks on the skirts of the pistons. I now run a stock unaltered tray so the rods will splash more oil on the cylinders. At Bonneville or El Mirage you might gain a few more RPM"s with out the tray due to the parasitic drag of the rod passing through the oil but my car only goes 1/4 of a mile at a time.
I also run an early V8 pump with a similar adapter on my Winfield flathead and I had to add an electric fan. Antique Ford Parts had an aluminum fan hub for the "A": pump and I had thought to adapt one to an Early V8 pump but chickened out because the V8 pump only has a 1/2" shaft. No problem bushing it but thats adding a lot to spin on the 1/2" shaft.

 

An electric fan on a banger just does not seem right to me. Buy a good copper radiator. I would change the pulley and mount a two bladed mechanical fan. I think the people that sell the conversion kit for the water pump sell the pulley with a fan mount.

 

Quick question fellas...

Using stock A axles with 40 juice drums on fenderless coupe, is backspacing an issue if using oem style 1940 ford wheels? My searches take me in circles.

 

Thanks ebtm3. It has lever shocks, passengers also. Maybe reverse eyes and two leaves?

 

I agree, but I have an electric fan from a Taurus and other than the cast aluminum two blade fan (which I think are ugly) the steel ones scare the hell out of me. Everyone has a story about them including me.

 

The best way to drop the rear of your car is to put a 3" kick in the frame. if you cut the rails 3 1/2" behind the rear seat riser at a 45 degree angling forward and move the rear section on top of the front section you will get about a 3" drop. The kick will be hidden under the rear seat. By doing this you won't have to modify any other parts.

Personally I would leave the rear where it is, and just drop the front. They look great with a forwad rake.

Ron

 

Model T rear spring drops about 3-4 inches depending on which body style A you have. Or in your case T

 

I'd been thinking about this lately, my pan has the dipper wells drilled and I've been thinking of welding them up. Is this your "B" your speaking of, if so how has your block been modified. On mine I'm having the center oil passage opened up to 5/16"(since it has to supply the main and #2 & 3 rod bearings and the front and rear passage opened to 1/4". Also what kind of pressure is your oil pump producing? TK

 

Hello gentlemen, I have a very nice and running 1928 chevrolet 4 banger I want to sell but don't know what its worth, would 600 bucks be too much? Thanks guys.