Just re-visitng this awesome thread, and was wondering what firewall you used - it doesn't seem to come up when you described the issues with it. Thanks
Stovebolt - I ended up using the same firewall. Most of the problem was that this was my first '32 and I didn't realize that the seal was as thick as it was for the firewall - I expected it to be a bit tighter. Anyway, that firewall is a nice piece and everything is fitting nice.
That looks Brilliant.... Great idea. It looks so much cleaner than that Flat mounting panel. But does this mean you have to have the hood on all the time or there an option for the latch to be removed (without unscrewing it). I guess the spring loading would have it sticking out sideways. I was thinking if the bottom part was open you could slide the hook section off, if you wanted to run open hood.
Thanks for the reply to my question. It seems as though I didn't ask the "right" question. What I meant was...... who made the firewall?
I worked the headlight mounts a little more today. They still need another filing, but they're pretty close. Here's a closeup of one: I took advantage of the nice weather today and rolled the car back outside. I'm going to work on the floor this week most likely. I'm also planning on mounting the '39 taillights and license plate to the tail pan, so I may get those rounded up this week. A buddy of mine stopped by today and took some photos of the car with his nice camera...here's a few
Eaton made the spring with some bronze bushings, but I swapped them out for some poly Pete & Jakes bushings. I have the same on the front.
I got a few parts in today for the car from Baxter Ford (my favorite parts place). They had this NOS '40s Ford accessory license plate frame. Unfortunately, it's missing of the the trim caps. I'm thinking about TIG'ing the upper and lower pieces together so that the only seams are along the sides. If I can find another trim cap, or a matching pair of something else, I'll hide the seams with those. Anyone have one of these?
I've been pretty busy with work lately so progress is a little slow. I spent the past couple of days looking at taillight placement on '32s before I laid mine out. Here they are with the license plate stuck in place with a tape ball - that's next on the list.
I finally got underway on the floor this week. I wanted to seam the floor to firewall where the toeboards meet the floor. So, I extended the toeboards down and put a stepped flange where they'll meet the floors. I made up some quick patterns and rough cut some panels for the front pans. I'm making the floor even with the bottom of the subrails like the rear panel is. I have some 1/2" but 1 1/2" tubing that I'll be using for additional subrails over these pans to keep the same style and provide some extra support. I'm planning on filling the voids to build up the height, with plywood or something similar, so the floor on the top is flat as well. Here, I got the left panel trimmed some more, and drilled so I can plug weld it to the subrails. I'm not having an access panel for the master cylinders, so I raised a section to provide some more hand room underneath. The top of that section will be flush with the finished floor. And a couple pics from before - I set up the shifter. I had used a hurst tower in a previous project, and was never really happy with the amount of throw for being a "short throw" shifter. I picked up this tower from Pro5.0 (some guys who originally started making stuff for Mustangs), and am pleased by the shorter throw. That, combined with this early '40s truck shift stick made the throw decent for a long stick. I may shorten it some more once the seat is finalized.
No access through the floor for the master cylinder? What a pain in the ass. I predict you will be sorry. Why not use some of your obvious fabrication skills and make a neat cover. Even if you have a bare floor when finished, it won't detract from anything. It's supposed to be there. And one more thing I'd watch out for: A little more swinging room around the trans might be helpful if it ever needs to come out.
Alchemy - the pans are just rough cut around the trans right now. I'll be opening it up once I build the tunnel. As for the master cylinders, I've usually gone this route in the past. I do agree - it's a bit of a pain when needing to fill/service it involving mirrors and flashlights, but that's a tradeoff I don't mind rather than another hole and panel in the floor.
OK. I really do like the car. Has a great stance and overall look. And plenty of individualism, without being over the top.
Great car Cory...I think the rear wheels tucked in close looks real nice...I would`nt change it.The car has a real nice tight look about it....what colour are you thinking of ??
reefer - the car is going to be all black, black wheels, black motor, etc. As for interior, I'm thinking about a dark saddle brown or oxblood red/brown. The only thing I'm undecided is the top color..... Here's a shot from tonight. I final trimmed the pans, and tacked them together with a joining piece behind the trans. I started the subrails at the forward edge. After this shot, I pulled the floor panel out in one piece so I can final weld it in the middle and work more on the subrails. I'm continuing that tubing around the trans opening, and that's what the tunnel will bolt to.
Cory, I guess you have seen this car..but if not, it will give you a look at what yours should look like painted....this car is perfect.... http://www.verntardel.com/blogs/tardel-built-hot-rods
I pretty much got the front floor finished up, and am pleased with how it turned out. I still have to make the transmission tunnel, which I hope to do this week. I pulled the body off today, and worked on the rear suspension. I got a panhard bar setup to keep down the shackle sway. After that, I fabbed up some upper shock mounts, and welded the brackets for the lower mounts I got from So-Cal Sacramento. Those are their forged mounts that look like the early '40s Ford pieces.
Great work, super smooth parts! This is more like art work than car parts, every piece looks sculptured! My vote for (what it's worth) would be Oxblood or deep Green interior. You should be very proud of your work & talant. Bob
Agree... a very cool build project. Definitely one to follow for inspiration when I get to start mine. I agree with the oxblood or dark green interior, dark green looks awesome, just look at Lowsquire's gorgeous roadster. Understated and elegant. Cheers, Eddie
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