is it totally stupid for me to cheap out and use this compressor for paint???

alright,
i have worked for people painting, but never owned my own compressor. lines filter and so on.

the two most air hungry things i have are my gun
satajet nr 95 hvlp, 13 cfm, at 43 psi

and my DA,
hutchins 4500, 9.8 cfm, at 90


i can get this new, well used once for a killer price locally.
http://www.toolbarn.com/rolair-4090hk17.html

would i be insane to try to use a rolair 4090HK17.
here are the specs

Engine: Honda
Horse Power: 5.5 HP
CFM Displaced @ 100 PSI :13.1 CFM
CFM Delivered @ 100 PSI: 8.9 CFM
Pump RPM: 1040 RPM
Pump Oil Capacity: 34 Ounces
Reed Valve System: Yes (Standard)
Automotive Style Inserts: Yes (Standard)
Motor HP: 5-1/2
Cubic Feet Displaced: 13.1
Cubic Feet free air at 100psi: 8.7
Stage: Single
Belt Tightening Device: Yes (Standard)
Wheels: 1 Fully Pneumatic w/Sealant
Tank Capacity: 9 Gallons
Length: 46"
Width: 19"
Height: 28"
Weight - 174 lbs.

seems by cfm rating it would work, or am i looking at that wrong?

i will be using it for die grinding, da sanding, and paint.
i am the cars with single stage color, so it will not be as intensive as base/clear, and i could do it panel by panel instead of doing the body all at once like i would with bc/cc

the does not need to be pebble beach concourse quality, but i would like it to be GOOD, its mainly for corrosion protection hah.
but seriously, i would like it to spray out nice and proper, though i will be wetsanding the whole thing.
i will need to work out a proper filter and lines as well.


i know the thing will be running constantly and use gas which i would feel kinda irresponsible about, but i have do paint and body on these two cars, and then i am moving cross country, so i want something small/easy to sell. if i buy a big industrial comp, it will be hard to get rid of it, and every one i have found that is actually appropriate is either over 1k, or there is no way to test the thing before i take it home.
there is a curtis d96 here that seems like a great deal, but there is no way to test it before i pay and take it home.


the rolair wheelbarrow compressor actual would be small enough to move with, and i plan on buying a farm, and it would certainly be usefull there.

just, i dono about the 9 gallon tank issue. i guess i could probably rig up an aux tank.

let me know if i am just being a cheap crack pot
thanks everyone

matt

 

Not with a 9 gal tank lol.

 

I'm not sure I understand all the differences between Cubic Feet Displaced, Cubic Feet Delivered, and Cubic Feet Free Air, but I'd be tempted to use the lowest rating just to be sure. That said, I think you're gonna be right on the edge of what this thing will do given the requirements of the gun and DA. Too bad they don't have ratings at different PSI number, since your HVLP runs way below the 100 PSI rating they use. If you had a big auxiliary tank, then this would probably be OK, as long as you take a break every now and then and let the compressor catch up.

 

9 Gallons is WAY too small - ESPECIALLY for running your DA. Might work OK for painting if you just do panels, but not for shooting a complete car.

The problem is the tank - not the compressor. Just not enough reserve capacity fopr the DA or the HVLP gun.

I got my 60 gallon at Lowes for about $400 - it would be able to do what you want!

 

What you need to know is the free air at the pressure that you spray at, which should be listed on the spray gun fact sheet that came with the gun.

 

I got an 80 gal tank and can keep her running , depending on the tool.

 

With a five or six horse motor you will need a 60 to 80 gallon tank. I have used smaller compressors before, and painted cars one panel at a time with a single stage paint...and got good results... But That thing you showed a picture of is really made for running a nail gun. And not much more.

 

With too small of a tank, the pressure won't keep up and start to spatter the paint because of low air pressure. It's really frustrating, I learned the hard way.

 

For that kind of money you should be able to get a big 220v unit out of the cl***ifieds. You'd be much happier (and have some $$ left) if you could find one.

The gas type is ok if you need portability or there is no way you can get 220v in your work area. Even if that's the case I'd still look around for a used unit that's bigger.

But if you really want to go with the one you linked to I'd go look for a big tank and plan on working in stages while compressor catches up.

HTH

 

Also, the bonus of a larger tank is how it allows the air more time to cool. This is important for letting the water condense -- so you can drain it rather than letting it end up on your paint job. Even if a powerful compressor on a small tank keeps up with CFM demand, it will rush the air right through. Then the air won't get a chance to cool until it's going through the air hose (lying on the cold shop floor) The little filter on your spray gun won't help a bit!

 

That compressor is used for construction were they don't have electric power.

RUNS APPROXIMATELY
3-5 Framing/Sheathing Guns
4-7 Roofing Guns

 

alright, thanks guys. thats sorta what i figured. it was just a good deal and seemed like it would be useful to me in the future, but if it wont work, it wont work.

what about this pile lol
http://www.harborfreight.com/35-hp-60-gallon-130-psi-compressor-3848.html

there actually is one of them on cl here, but they want $450 for it and its 2 years old lol, given that it came from harbor freight it prolly wont last another 2 years

it was weird, i talked to the daughter on the phone about it, and she was talking to her dad about it, i guess she posted everything, and its his stuff from his tire shop.
$450 is what they cost new for crying out loud.

should i bother with seeing if they will take 200 for it, or should i look for something better.

as far as gun specifics go, this is all the manual tells me that is applicable
air consumption: 13cfm at 43 psi at the gun inlet
max spray air pressure 43 psi



thanks guys.
i appreciate the help

 

lol, i am not a total fool, i know its meant for construction. i just could get it really cheap, so i wondered if i could make it work for what i need.

i know ideally i need something like this
http://www.aircompressorsdirect.com...ml?utm_source=froogle&utm_medium=shop+portals
i just dont have the money,
and big stuff like that is harder to resell.

 

thanks, good info.

speaking of water, any recommendations for filters and dryers?

 

i bought my 60 gal, 5hp for right around 400 from menards. i stoped in there every once in a while to check prices and see the sale. if you dont need it right away you can watch the sale ads and find 1 for a good deal.

i went through this before i bought my with looking on cl and used stuff, decided just to buy a new one because you just dont know how other people keep their stuff.

 

Yeah, I use a relatively inexpensive setup that works awesome... a large quarter turn valve that leads to 3/4" copper pipe that runs up the shop wall. Then run a loop or at least a long length around the perimeter of your ceiling. It should angle down hill slightly over its entire run. The lowest point should have a drop that leads to a pet**** valve. (to let the water out)

Then, before just before that drop, you will want to put a T fitting that goes upward toward the ceiling. Then, loop it back down to your air regulator and water seperator. (I used a cheapie from Harbor freight). THEN I lead a short length to a Motorguard 60 filter. It is a cast aluminum piece that accepts a standard size roll of toilet paper. The air will find it's way through the plies axially, and it will absorb any moisture that hasn't yet condensed. (This is just as effective as a very expensive dessicant filter, or an electric line drier)

Now run your air hose to your gun. Regulate down to 60 psi at the wall, and shooting pressure at the gun

 

This pic shows the airline setup. It allows the liquid to run to the drain. Then the air you are using is taken off of the top of the line to avoid picking up water.

 

We actually have the larger version of this compressor (http://www.harborfreight.com/5-hp-60-gallon-165-psi-two-stage-air-compressor-93274.html was thinking it had a larger tank, though) and have had pretty good luck with it. We've had it for a long time and replaced the head gasket once last year and once again last week, but it was cheap and easy to do. I run the HELL out of it. I've painted a ch***is and all it's components and will be painting the rest of my car with it. I run a LOT of air tools with it as well.

The key to a compressor like this is to make sure you keep the water out of it and make sure you set up a good drying loop like any system. Regular oil changes, etc. And it's SUPER loud so you may want to plumb it outside if you have that option.

 

All these replies are full of good info for required compressor size and Ive used a TP filter like 'kustomrodder53' mentions with total success for painting over 1000 cars. If you are tempted to go borderline on the compressor, remind yourself what paint and materials cost; if you land up 'waiting on' your air delivery, even enough to alter your presssure at the gun regulator, you're going to run into drying or blending problems. Painting panel by panel will even produce a different color 'shade' depending on pressure at the gun, and you can forget about metallics matching. Save the money and your paint job until you've completed your move. Good luck; painting's a 'rush' if you take your time.

 

thank you so much for all your recommendations!

 

I fully agree with this comment! You will be pissed that you didn't spend a little more and get something bigger that is intended for doing this type of work. Even if it's a cheaper one, you at LEAST need the larger capacity and pressure ratings or you are going to be hating life. A two stage will be better, also.

Something else I would advise getting, no matter what compressor you get, is an in-line filter/dryer, canister type. "China Freight" ALSO carries those and they are very good knock-off and you can reuse the filter in it by taking the right steps. It's a grey-blue canister with a regulator on it. Doesn't hurt to add a small disposable filter at the gun, either.

Keep your line dry and clean. Dedicate a hose to your paint gun so you know it's clean and free of oil and water. You can have the best equipment in the world, but if you don't take the steps to keep water and contaminates out of your paint gun it's going to ruin your paint job.

 

thanks for all the tips.
like i said, i would not paint bc/cc like that. just single stage, but single stage or not, you are correct, things could end up slightly different shades and so on. believe it or not actually had some training, it was just a while ago so i am rusty. everything you guys are saying is good stuff to beat into my head, or back in if it was actually in there at some point

the issue is, i have garage space now, and i do not exactly know what is in store for the future, so i cannot count on it. i do not want to have to worry about painting cars right after i move.
i also have the time right now to do the job, and one car i am painting is staying here ( my dads 66 f100, was his grandpas), and the other will be a driver and needs to be done so i can sell my current driver here.
it will see snow and mud, and needs rust issues taken care of before it sees those again. (1977 volvo 244)
my 56 chevy could use paint too, but sadly that is not in the mix.
i have not really done much with the old chevy since i got into the 240s, someone obviously put something in my water.

you are right, i guess i should not short on the compressor. i really did not think i could, but i really wanted too if you know what i mean. oh well.

i have a little time here before i start painting, as i need to finish up my autox car (92 volvo 245) i can wait and try to find something decent used, or something on sale, but i cannot wait that long.

let me know what you guys are using.
thanks for talking sense into me, i thought i was being a crack pot.

 

thank you, some of that is review for me, but I NEED IT. so keep it coming
prep is everything with paint.

why have i been absent from this forum for so long
i owe you guys

 

Yep, construction and around here they use them to blow irrigation lines out in the fall some. I've got one that is five horse that is great for taking out and running the impact to take wheels off something or blowing out the underground sprinkler lines but I wouldn't want to use to paint a car with. Damned thing is hell for noisy too and you have to go start it up every time you want to use it and put gas in it and change the oil every 25 hours of run time.

If a guy has cash he can find a pretty decent electric unit with at least 5 hp and a minimum 60 gallon tank pretty reasonable most of the time with a little hunting.

 

i am thinking about doing this guy, http://www.harborfreight.com/5-hp-60-gallon-165-psi-two-stage-air-compressor-93274.html
and getting it new using a 20% off coupon i found online
here if someone is interested
http://www.bargainez.com/coupon/20-off-any-single-item-harbor-freight-tools-printable-coupon-12/

so thats like $640, not bad i dont think. most people are happy with them from what i have found by digging around on forums with google.

one of you mentioned having this comp.

Air delivery: 13.5 CFM @ 165 PSI, 15.8 CFM @ 90 PSI, 16.4 CFM @ 40 PSI
Cast-iron cylinders and stainless steel valves
Automatic start/stop
ASME tank with safety valve
No mag starter required
230 volts, 22 amp, Single phase

its also reported that the whole thing is US made and the pump is actually a baldor.

what do you guys think?

 

I'm the one who mentioned having it and I have no complaints. It was purchased for our building when we first moved in. I think that's been 6 years. Two head gasket sets in 6 years. Not bad!!! And realistically it was probably because we slack on maintenance a bit.

It DOES say it's made in the US, but I seriously doubt it. Every damn bolt on it is metric and well, HF doesn't sell much that isn't imported. But I suppose it's possible. Or maybe it's ***embled in the US.

I think for the price it's a great unit and parts are available for it out of a place in the pacific NW. It will definitely do want you want it to do. We have beat the hell out of ours.

 

I just ordered a Belaire 216V. I was going to go with the cheaper 60 gal verticals, but the CFM's just aren't there. I decided to spend a few hundred more and have something that completely meets my needs.

http://www.belairecompressors.com/p_piston-2stage-electric.html

 

those look nice, but i think with the 20% off it makes it more like 300+ or so.

for me, i just need something that does this job well, because i am going to offload the thing in a couple of months when i move. so i dont want to be married to the thing.
now if i were buying it to keep this whole thing would be a different story.
i usually do not cheap on tools, well i usually dont buy snapon either, but like my cars i usually buy for life if you know what i mean.
a compressor is just too much to bring with us (TX to PA, most likely, maybe further north)
i really dont want to sell all my mid century danish mod furniture, but im prolly going to have to part with some of it as it is.
when you boil it down, all i am absolutely bringing with me are my tools, literature and guitars, all of which pretty much pack out the 245 with just me and the dog up front. then its either, the 77 pulling a trailer, or a moving truck pulling the 77.
point is, when i get down to it i don't want to drag a huge compressor cross country, when i could bring my great grandmothers pie safe in its place

probably more info than needed there. i have not got out much lately

 

Get the electric compressor you can afford and take when you move. Then checkout Craigs List and pick up an aux tank or 3. I have 6 tanks total. They cost less than $100 total. Run 1 separator & check out Harbor Freight for a desiccant filter. Got 2 for $28 ea. Drain the tanks often & enjoy the dry air.

 

meh, i think im going to get the harbor freight one, then offload it.