1. Ive heard that the wheel studs on the wildcat 45fn drums are fluted between the the holes and you will break the rotor if you press them out? Is this true, and besides cutting them off and smoothen out the tops, is there a way around it? 2. Cn I remove the huge weights screwed to the outer edge, or will they then chatter very badly cause I have removed the balance from the factory? I know once the studs are removed, not to turn it on the hub, cause it will throw it out of ballance... if the above #2 question is true. Thanks Hambers.
You are talking drums, not rotars right? I cut mine off and drilled them out, then i ran an easy out into them to twist them a little bit before i gave them a tap out with a small hammer
I just ground down the head and used a deep well socket underneath to support the hub and press the remaining stud into the socket so that the drum can't be bent. It's a good practice for replacing any stud aluminum drum or not.
Ya gotta ask yourself: "Why do I think they put those big ugly weights on there IF they're not needed?" Look at AND study those drums. They're a huge mass of crudely cast aluminum. They're not round, at best. There's a lot of "crudely-cast", un-machined weight flingin'-around out there that needs to be balanced, somehow. That MIGHT be what those weights are for. DD
Use a piece of pipe or support a socket under the studs and pres/knock them out. They are not swedged like the Ford studs. You will need to rebalance after turning the drums. Make and try new weights and tape them on until the assembly turns on the spindle without any heavy spot. Drill and tap to put them on for keeps.
You can take the weights off, they were balanced with the original hubs, i would however rebalance them with the new hubs, or do on the car tire balancing once your done. ANd if my memory serves me correct isnt there rivets holding the driums to the hubs? and the studs arent really swedge in place? maybe theres two types. JEFF
There should be three rivets that have to be cut off and then knock or press the studs out with a piece of pipe supporting the back side of the hub as Andy suggested. I used to have a piece of pipe about 6 inches long in my tool box just to do that with when I had to change a lot of broken or damaged studs that came in the shop on a regular basis.
You ask yourself, why does that engine have that counter ballance shaft in there...is it to deadn secondary and third harmonics...YES... however you can remove them and it doesent cause problems...... It was because Little grocery gettin mom woulden't feel that big ole V6 engine mounted transverse in the front of that smooth ridn car. Just going to show that alot of things are over done because they were concerned about a smooth ridn car. Thanks for your input....
I am using the original hubs still in the Drum. I am setting it up to redrill, but will remove the original studs. Yes Sir, they are self tapn screws of some sort. I can reballance, but I just wondered cause the have been turned, and the secondanry harmonics will be off. you have removed metal from one side of the rotating assembly. I was reeely kicking around weight drilln them on the opposit side. Or when I do the ballance, use a 3/8 bit and not go any deeped then 1/4'' from the inside rim where the inserts come together with the aluminum. I know I am no Rocket scientist, but if you remove the weight measure it and remove the exact same amount of weight over the same area directly opposite of the original mounting location that is effectivle cancelling out the need for why the weight was needed for the rotating mass? At least thats the basic idea on bobweight and rotating mass in a rotatiing assembly?
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