Why SBC runs way hot on right bank?

I`ve got a 307 chevy, edelbrock streetmaster intake, two 97`s on an adapter for 4bbl intake. I`ve syncronized the carbs both for idle and mixture, checked timing, adjusted valves and the right side runs real hot. Headers are smokin and blueing and the left is normal. Whats going on?

 

I would check for a vac leak on the intake at the right side head.

 

The vacuum leak theory is a good one, also check for a big gob of something in the water pump on that side. If you used Silicone this is a common problem.


Tim

 

Head gasket on backwards?

 

are you running heater? if not do you have water pump inlet/outlets blocked off? if so still need to run hose from manifold to water pump.

 

this is a chevy, not a ford....must be some other problem

 

How do I check for a leak?

I havent had the heads off, the engine worked fine when it was in a buddys chevelle.

No heater and yes all blocked off. HUH? I`ve never heard of that before?
This will cause hot exhaust? I think the head temp is fine, I think its burning mixture hotter. ?????

 

While it's running, spray something flammable in that area.. if the RPMs come up, then there's a leak!

 

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<P>If its the intake gasket, it could be leaking into the valley area not accessable with flammable fluids...</P>
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<P>If I pull the intake will there be signs of a leak left on the gasket?</P>
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Try and get hold of a laser temp gauge and confirm your theory before pulling it apart ....

 

Can somebody else confirm the water pump to manifold hose?

 

It is just a bypass but yes you need the hose.

As for the gasket you can rev it then let it down. Sometimes if it is leaking enough it will suck some oil up and give you a little puff. The other thing you can do is pull the plugs and see if it is running lean on that side. You may need to pull all the plugs for a comparison.

Here is a question for you, have you checked the manifold bolts? I have found them loose on any number of engines in my time that were haveing a problem and tightening them has solved the problem a few times for me.

 

Ok, so which port on the water pump (short style) and yes checked manifold bolts.

 

Always just plugged the holes on my race cars.....Hmmmm never had a prob...

 

307 = cracked head!

 

If it was a corvette it used the top port and if it wasn't it used the side port. Either one will work.

Damn I wish you just had loose bolts.

Give your plugs a read it isn't like to got run it to operating RPM and shut it down in nuetral like tunning for a race just pull 'em and look at 'em. I am going to bet your are lean as the devil or way more lean on the right bank, or they may even be oily either one is going to suggest a busted gaskey. the Street Mater is an open plenum intake with small runners so it is going to be pretty straight forward on your plug read all ports should be getting fuel evenly, all the time.

 

Could it be related to the fact that you're using a dual plane manifold with that carb adaptor?

 

never used one, what kind of SBC do you have? got pics?
this for those that say they are required!

 

Its a single plane manifold with an open plenum....

 

X2...pretty common mistake....

 

Ck for coolant crossover plugged.

 

SBC not SBF

 

The best way to check for a intake gasket leaking vacuum on the VALLEY side (inside engine) is to disconnect and plug the pcv system so that the crankcase is sealed. Then remove the dipstick and put a vacuum gauge on the dipstick tube. start the engine, there should be NO vacuum there, if there is then you have a manifold leak.

I have found the best way to check for a external vacuum leak is to use and oxy/ acetylene torch. Put a very small welding tip on the torch and open the acetylene supply only (just small gas flow, not a lit flame), and only a small amount. Run the tip along any possible place for a vacuum leak, and if there is a leak, the engine rpm will increase. Be sure to not let too much acetylene flow, or it can simply be sucked in through the carb and give you a false diagnosis.

 

This is a stretch, but check your header bolts. If they're loose air will get drawn back thru the exhaust valve into the cylinder. I doubt this is the problem if you've been tuning they're probably nice and tight.

 

Again it's a SBC not aSBF, chevy bypasses internally pre Vortec.

 

Ok....is the right side of the engine running hotter than the left,like real hot. Or is it just the header pipes showing a heat difference? The first could be a weird cooling problem,the second a fuel mixture or retarded timing issue.You might think ignition timing will affect both sides the same,but maybe not?

 

I would check all the vacuum lines real close. My brother had a 305 that kept burning (rotting) of a hose at the back of the air cleaner on the intake manifold. The port had a direct link to 2 cylinders on each bank and would cause a miss on those cylinders only.

 

Start it up, put your hand behind the tail pipe, feel any difference in heat or pulsation from left to right? Sound?

 

Its just the headers showing the heat difference, I think the heads are relatively the same....
I'll take a pic tonite...

 

Maybe its a old dirt track engine, 4 dome pistons on the pass side and 4 flat top on the driver side!

What kind of exhaust is on the car?