I just installed my ****** with the converter...worked alittle to get the converter lined up..but it went it nicely...once the ****** housing was installed and bolted to the engine I crawled under the car to fasten the converter to the flexplate and notice I have about a 1/4 to 3/8 space between the flexplate and converter flanges..?? is this normal..the converter does spin freely..I did not attach the nuts and bolts..thinking the converter would come out and out from the tabs nubs....this is my first automatic...do I have an issue or does this have some play..In the pic the converter is on the left side...the tab is in the upper left area...you can see the edge of it..I have about a 1/4" between the flexplate and converter tab.. Engine a 1964 226 V6 ****** BOP TH-350 I bought this ****** several years ago from Amco ****** rebuilders..it was rebuilt and came with the converter...it is a BOP pattern..
See if this helps 16oz, The flexplate when properly installed, the raised inner lip on the flexplate crankshaft diameter is away from the crankshaft. A 1/16" to 1/8" gap is normal. This is right from my latest B&M converter tech page. Hope that helps, I agree with cosmo, sounds like its on backwards. TR
Torque the flexplate bolts to 55 ft. pounds and use a drop of lock-***e, Bellhousing bolts 30-35 ft. pounds. Dont forget to fill the converter. When and after you tighten the bellhousing bolts, you should be able to spin the converter. Now tighten the converter bolts to 30-35 ft pounds. I would use a drop of lock-***e here too. TR
I never took it off...it looks correct...the outer lip ridge flange is towards the converter...I think I might slide the converter forward and see what happens..if it comes off from the tabs I will know something is wrong..it is a stock set-up..
I did fill the converter but lost some fluid when I was mounting it all by myself..???....I was told you can unhook a ****** line and bleed the system...???...
I found this write on the web....I mght just use a couple of washers to take the space up... PREPARE THE CRANKSHAFT AND CONVERTER FOR INSTALLATION always check crankshaft for burrs and out of round remove rust with emery and lightly grease pocket receiving torque pilot remove paint from converter crank pilot with emery pour one quart of ATF into the converter check the flex plate for cracks and worn teeth install the converter on front of the transmission CHECK CONVERTER TO FLEX PLATE ALIGNMENT After bell housing bolts are tight, check free movement of converter. It should have 1/16 to 1/8" of clearance between pads on converter and flex plate. If you have more than 1/16 to 1/8", install equal thickness washers to reduce clearance to 1/16 to 1/8". If not enough clearance, remove transmission and check to see if converter is seated in front pump properly. Draw converter bolts up evenly so as not to pull converter into a bind causing vibration and pump bushing failure. If vibration occurs after installation, mark converter to flex plate and rotate the converter one bolt hole at a time. The number 1 cause of vibration is failure to prepare the crankshaft for installation. Each time the converter is installed without sanding out the crankshaft rust, removing the paint from converter pilot and adding a little grease, the converter may be drawn up crooked with the first bolt. This may cause the converter to run-out and usually ruins the pump bushing. The 2nd most common complaint on converters is a whine after installation. This usually means there's too much clearance between converter pads and flex plate. This draws the converter hub too far out of the pump drive gear causing the gear to rock. DEPTH CLEARANCE: GM Turbo-Hydramatic 350 1 1/8" from Bell Housing to Pads GM Turbo-Hydramatic 400 / 4L80E / 700R4 1 3/16" from Bell Housing to Pads GM Powerglide 1 1/8" from Bell Housing to Pads Most Fords 1" from Bell Housing to Pads *Distance may vary either way .050". Measure the depth of mounting pad face (A) from the mounting flange face. Notice that the right hand that is holding the straight edge is also pushing the converter in toward the transmission.
Where did you find that info? was it on a place that sells aftermarket converters? You should not need to put washers between the converter and flex plate with a stock converter. Measure how much the converter can move forward/backward. Also see if the pads on the converter touch the flexplate when the converter is slid forward all the way, and if not, measure the gap. Let us know...
I'll try it tomorrow...I'll won't use the washers..found that info at site below...Question if the converter slides forward to much it will come out off the tabs...?? http://www.partshp.com/ConverterInstructions.htm
The slots in the converter are about 1/2" long, the converter probably will move a max of 1/4" when you slide it forward.
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