Ok so in late October I'm going to pull my engine/trans (283/350TH) out of the Plymouth. I've got a 355 with a fresh rebuild on the engine stand but I would rather stick with the 283. The numbers tell me it was a passenger car 283 from 62. From what I've read the heads are pretty much junk. If this is the case I'd like to know what direction I should head. Keeping in mind I'm on a pretty tight budget. I was thinking if nothing else I could go with a thumpa cam, some new lifters, and a set of headers. I wouldn't be opposed to a new set of heads but that can be expensive. I would like to leave the bottom end untouched because its all got less than 500 miles on it. Any advice would be much appreciated!
I'll have to post my block numbers and make sure I was interpretting them correctly. I thought power pack motors were only 59 and earlier, that did not occur to me!
Do a search on here. Fat Hack did a build on a 307 a number of years ago. Pretty much everything he did applies to a 283, since a 307 is basically a 283 with a stroker crank. Best heads for the money are from a 305 HO. I think the best ones end in a 601 casing number, but I could be wrong. Small cam, probably 220 or less at .050, Performer or similar intake, avoid the rpm series, too much port volume, not enough velocity for a small motor. Devin
What you do to the motor should kind of follow your overall plan for the car. I assume that since you don't want to run the 350, you probably aren't all that interested in running 305 heads and modern intake on it either? because if you are, then you might as well run the 350. If you want a nice performing period looking 283, you'll use old heads, and old intake, etc and make it run pretty good.
Do you have a photo of the front of the head or the casting number of the heads? I'd still think that what you want to put it in and what you want to do with it dictates what changes you make on it. The worst thing about early heads is that they don't stand up to the gas we have these days. That may be why you have been told that the heads aren't any good. The second reason may be that they are the low performance two barrel heads that leave a lot to be desired as far as performance goes.
Power pack meant that it came from the factory with a four barrel on it. Those heads have a triangle sitting on top of the rectangle at the front of the heads. The heads with the plane rectangle just above the head gasket are two barrel heads.
Best heads for the money are from a 305 HO. I think the best ones end in a 601 casing number, but I could be wrong. Small cam, probably 220 or less at .050, Performer or similar intake, avoid the rpm series, too much port volume, not enough velocity for a small motor. Devin[/QUOTE] Totally agree,the only thing that I did different was to put the 305 HO valves (I think they are 1.84s) in my stock heads. The machine work didn`t break the bank and I had the original heads . A 570cfm Holley on a performer manifold works perfect.
I say be honest with yourself on how the car is going to be used in your real world. Are you really going to race it often? You should be able to rebuild your 283 and get a very nice sounding and performing street hotrod without a huge cash outlay. Race car parts are for race cars. Do you really want to compare dyno readings for bragging rights or do you want a good sounding hotrod that will do 75 on the interstate, idle cool in line and get descent gas mileage? I never was one to try and keep up with the Jones's so if my heads aren't the best available, I don't get upset as long as they get me there and back with no problems. Figure out what you really want and then you will be able figure out what you really need. JMHO
I agree with others that 305 heads are all you need on the 283. The 350 heads are made to cover a 4" bore and if you use them the intakes will be shrouded. The 305 heads are plentiful and cheap and will flow more air than a 283 can pump.
The heads do have the rectangle with the triangle on top. So I guess they are power pack heads. I would like to be able to take the car to the drag strip on occasion. At this point it will not be any kind of dedicated race car. I would like it to drive at 70 on the highway and idle in traffic without over heating issues! I would like to keep it as a relativly traditional build. Right now I have a late model style intake and edlebrock carb but I would like to change that with out giving up too much in the way of performance!
The number on the passenger side of the block appears to be FII04GF I've been trying to read the number on the drivers side front of the head and its very difficult to read it appears to have been stamped by hand and its very light on some numbers! Am I looking in the correct place for the head ID?
Cylinder head casting numbers are beneath the valve cover, between the last two pairs of rocker stud bosses.
I would use the 355 on the engine stand ecspecially if your on a tight budget.your already way ahead on cubic inches.
iv got a 58 283' in my coupe right now. 416 305 heads ported, big springs, screw in studs. .516 - .533 solid cam, chromoly push tubes, full roller rockers. bbc oil pump and 8 quart pan. Tunnel ram with 2 600 afbs. This little motor scares the shit outta me! will snap the rearend loose on command.
If you want to "idle in traffic" forget the "Thumper" cam in a 283 if it were in a 350 you could get by with it,I would take a serious look at this cam: www.summitracing.com part# K1103 for an intake I would look at a Weiand Action Plus 8120,I'm not a big fan of the standard Performer intake they just don't make much power which is why you see plenty of them used for $50 on craigslist or ebay,the older Edelbrock C4B would also be a good choice.I would run the "601" 305 heads which will boost compression and have larger valves and hardened valve seats for unleaded
I put a set of power pack heads on mine with a stock intake and a 600 cfm carter and home made headers and an rv cam. I'm happy with it
I plan on making a trip to my local pick a part tomorrow. What year 305's have the good heads? Any other numbers than the 601 casting number? Thanks, Lee
I'll try to get the casting numbers under the valve covers but from what I've read in the last 24 hours I should be good to go with these heads and a decent cam swap...Now what size cam to use?
OK got a couple new questions...I have located a 327 crank that needs turned, and another fella witha 400 crank that is good to go. I would like to buy both cranks, the 327 small journal for the 283, then when all is well with the 283, I may build my 355 into a stroker, just for the strip. My real question is how much should I pay for either crank. I'm still not 100% sure what exactly I want to do with the 283 I believe I will probably use this 327 crank and have the heads gone through and build a nice little screamer. I realize I have alot of details to work out on this engine build, and I'm not sure what all will be involved yet but I think I can afford to do it so thats my plan! Any advice will be appreciated!
Don't put the 327 crank in a 283. You'll end up with the equivalent of the old 307 engine. More torque, but you'll lose top end rpm and it will be a better truck motor than a pass. car performance motor.
A new social group we have started. Just a FYI. http://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum/group.php?groupid=718
As for the torque thing, in a street engine wouldn't that be a good thing...I'm not being a smart ass I just always heard that those 307's were good little street burners when built the right way?
I'll second Tommy's thoughts. I've got a stock unrebuilt '64 (cast) 283 with power pack heads & a little 500cfm Edelbrock & lake headers with a 4-speed Saginaw. Granted, it's in a light car (fenderless '33 truck), but it's a ball to drive. I can barely keep the old bias plys planted on the asphalt. I absolutely wouldn't want anymore.
fleetside: I bet it is a blast in that 33! It doesn't do too bad in the current configuration...I just want some more...More noise, more tire smoke, more speed, you get the picture! I really like the idea of using the 283 over the 355!
--------------- It'll still make more total power than a 283...or another way to put it....it'll make the same power as the 283, but just not *HAVE* to rev as high to do it. What's not to like or want about that??? Mart3406 ===============
Nothing wrong with a 307, there is plenty of HP potential, after all a 383 has a shittier bore to stroke ratio but people love them The real problem comes from the time the factory introduced them, in '68 there were enough big cube sbc's and bbc's that nobody built them, combine that with a crappy factory tune and unhardened faces on the cam and you have a crappy motor If you look at early drag racing, there were PLENTY of sucessfull 307's even some bigger strokers The only thing i have to say negitive is that you will need to grind clearance in your block.
I didn't know you had to grind for clearance on a 307, I'll have to look into that! I'm still not sure what to pay for the 327 crank that will need machined, or the 400 crank for that matter, any suggestions?
Nothing wrong with a well built 283. Back in the day a friend of mine built a 283 in a '57 2dr post. It was bored .060 over (292) with flat top pistons, power pack heads, a 280* isky hydraulic, stock 220hp intake and carb with a set of headers. The car had a t10 and pulled a set of 4.88 gears. The car ran in the mid 13's at the strip (G/S) and out ran a lot of big block muscle cars on the street... There is a guy on here that built a 307 stroker motor. Used all vintage parts and pulled over 400hp on the dyno...
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