Projects 1950 3100 Truck Project

shadams · Sep 20, 2011

Yea, saw that and another somewhere else. Should get it installed this weekend. BTW, you still workin on your 49?

tonkadawg · Sep 21, 2011

cool - keep up the good work - truck is coming along.

Yeah I'm still on the 49 - not moving as fast as I had hoped.

Cymro · Sep 21, 2011

My truck has the foot operated parking brake, I don't Know if this is the correct way of fitting parking brake cables on these trucks or not, or simply a way of accomodating excess length (which I suspect), The cable from the right side of the vehicle is connected to the left side rear brake and from the left side to the right side rear brake crossing over under the bed, this does not seem to affect performance. The cables are supported with a couple of P clips.

Cymro · Sep 21, 2011

Oops I should have mentioned in my post (#155) that I was refering to the brake cable issue mentioned in post#94

TMSTransport · Sep 21, 2011

shadams said: ↑

Got the engine mostly done, just need to bolt on the oil pan tomorrow. The gasket kit had cheesy cork gaskets, so I headed to napa and bought a nice rubber/steel core gasket to match my valve cover gaskets. Wont do much more until I get it in the truck, don't want to damage anything or add weight to the front of the engine.

So I got the top and second bars off the grill blasted and primed, then I can ***emble one complete grill that's ready to go. The top bar off of the grille I bought from a fellow hamber had some rust holes under all the bondo, but earlier this week the wife and i decided we spent enough money on the ch***is/drive train and are going to go back together with a "patina" build. meaning it is going to look like an old raggedy truck to the untrained eye, which is what I wanted from the beginning anyway.So the grille will fit in with the other minor rusted areas. I am going to get the seat redone nicely and of course get all the wiring done right, but other than floors, new wood in the bed, and new weatherstrips/gl***, probably wont do much more to the body, at least not right now.

So that brings me to the heater that was in the truck, I had pulled it out a long time ago and haven't thought of it until today. I decided I was going to see what it was and take it apart just for ****s. As it turns out, the fan motor worked!! It sounded terrible but I knew if it worked it could be cleaned up and chances were it would be fine. So I pulled the motor apart and it looked really really good, just needed some TLC. All the bolts came right out with a little penetrating oil and I took it all outside and blasted it.

It is a Hadees H 200, and I think it looks kick ***. The core flowed nicely after a few boogers came out and doesn't seem to have any leaks. Put it all back together and it looks old as hell but after putting some juice to it, it works like a champ!! The only thing is it is a 6v motor, so either I need to find a 12v motor or somehow reduce voltage to it through a resistor. So I am going to take it back apart and shoot it with a light clearcoat and put it back together so it stays like it is....Check it out...

Click to expand...

You might drop hamber Dan Sutton a PM about running the 6v fan motor with 12v. He has a 48 AD and hasn't had a problem running the fan motor off of 12v..... yet. By the way, nice build. Been a pleasure watching it. Dave

sfort · Sep 21, 2011

Just found your project thread and really like what you are doing. With regards to the trans. mount the only concern is going to be the drive shaft angle. From what I have read 3 to 5 degrees is OK. Are your end mounts already welded on?

shadams · Sep 22, 2011

TMSTransport said: ↑

You might drop hamber Dan Sutton a PM about running the 6v fan motor with 12v. He has a 48 AD and hasn't had a problem running the fan motor off of 12v..... yet. By the way, nice build. Been a pleasure watching it. Dave
Click to expand...

Oh really??? Hmm....

Cymro said: ↑

My truck has the foot operated parking brake, I don't Know if this is the correct way of fitting parking brake cables on these trucks or not, or simply a way of accomodating excess length (which I suspect), The cable from the right side of the vehicle is connected to the left side rear brake and from the left side to the right side rear brake crossing over under the bed, this does not seem to affect performance. The cables are supported with a couple of P clips.
Click to expand...

I think I am going to run a trans mounted pb which means replacing the current cables anyway which will run as you mentioned.

sfort said: ↑

Just found your project thread and really like what you are doing. With regards to the trans. mount the only concern is going to be the drive shaft angle. From what I have read 3 to 5 degrees is OK. Are your end mounts already welded on?
Click to expand...

Engine mounts are bolt on style. With the crossmember in the right spot I think the trans will come down a few inches and at least be level, if not a slight tilt rearward. We'll see this weekend!!! Thanks!

shadams · Jun 3, 2015

Got the trans mount figured out, pretty straight forward once I got working on it. Put a few tacks to it so I could take it back off for final welding...

And finished the weld up, looks alright but I could have done a better job...

Got my alternator pulley on and alternator installed, p/s bracket ready to go just waiting on my new p/s pump and balancer bolt with washer so I can finish the front of the engine up. Also got the return line installed, when I get the pressure line I can figure out where to route it, seems stupid to have a 3ft long hose that only needs to be 6 inches, and the ps reservoir pipe points towards the p*** side. weird.

Ran vacuum lines from the trans, booster, and distributor and coiled them up on the engine, installed the trans and engine dipstick tubes and built my spark plugs wires. I tied them up with tie straps temp till I can find some looms I like. I really dig how it looks now but I dont think the tie straps will like the heat from the manifolds... BTW the engine has about a 2 degree rearward tilt, it is sitting on 0 right now because I have the front of the frame higher.

Got the converter bolts in, damn what a pain in the ***, and got my inspection cover installed and the trans is in and done after I paint the cross member.

So, need a carb and fuel pump, need to add a rollover valve and run a fuel vent line and fuel line with filter and then stick my driveshaft back in and see whats what there. Then need to try again to install my coil springs so I can finish the front suspension up.

Chevy54 · Oct 5, 2011

Man its amazing what you brought this truck from! Those days are long behind now brutha! The work youve done is awesome..keep the updates and the pics coming so I have a build to follow now that mines about complete!

shadams · Oct 6, 2011

Thanks man, I am tryin. I think I am going to break out the cab and start trying my hand a welding the thin stuff, get the floors out, etc. I am itching for something different.

Speaking of yours, came out completely bad ***. ****s for me that it is done though because I was following yours to keep me motivated.

shadams · Oct 7, 2011

Cant get my coil springs in and its ******* me off.....So I measured the distance from the upper spring pocket to the lower spring pocket with teh control arm slightly down at an angle and got 13". The coil spring un compressed is 17". I compressed them with a inside the coil spring compressor and couldnt even come close to compressing them 4" before my half inch impact just stopped. BTW, I did it several times and fit them in, need more so pulled them back out. Was pretty damn scary considering all the horror stories I have heard about all hell breaking loose, but the one time the tool did slip it really didn't do much.

Onto the net I went and I found a post on another forum where a guy took off both jaws and slid the rod down the shock hole, then installed only the threaded jaws back on which would allow you to compress the spring upward while in the upper pocket and then raise the lower control arm up and bolt it back together. Sounded like that was the ticket but the spring compressed a bit and then the threads on the rod of the compressor tool stripped out. I had hell even getting the tool out.

So I guess I had a **** compressor, or maybe it was the lack of lube on the threads, but what ever. Anyone have any words of wisdom for me? I am going to check Autozone and see if they rent what I need and try again...

whid · Oct 7, 2011

i rented one from autozone and liked it so much i just kept it...two jaws that went inside the coil and a fork/shoe that slid over the shaft and under a coil and tighten the nut down with a ratchet to compress....eastiest one i've used.......whid

shadams · Jun 3, 2015

Yep, that is what I just did whid...

TAAA FRICKIN DAAAA!!

Now its time for a beer....

Man, Its amazing how much difference having the right tool makes. the driver side took me a while just because of the fear factor, I compressed a little at a time and test fit, but the p*** side I should breeze through. Got some more odds and ends done and tomorrow I should have the p*** side done then I can bolt all the front end suspension down for good, finally. I cant really bleed the brakes yet as I have to pull the rear diff at some point and weld up my axle saddles, but I finally got through the saga of the coil springs!!!

BTW, why are the holes in the shock mounting shafts oval shaped? A 3/8 inch bolt goes through the control arm fine but wont fit through the shock cross shaft....

shadams · Oct 11, 2011

So I got the other coil spring in, and when I unthreaded the rod the spring wedged the shoe into the lower control arm. I had a pry bar in my right hand and leaned on it with all my weight, with my left arm in between the engine and the back side of the coil wiggling the compressor shoe trying to get it out when you guessed it, the pry bar slipped out and I went face/mouth first with all 180 lbs of me into the top of the frame rail. I immediately grabbed my mouth and ran to the closet mirror to see what I had done and to my relief all my teeth were there. Little cut on teh bridge of my nose and a busted lip on the inside. My wife was freaking out when I ran past here wide-eyed with my hand over my mouth!!

So anyway, brushed it off and went back outside, got my shocks in and the front end is officially done. Then I double checked my rear pinion angle and it was at zer0, so I tacked the saddles in place and pulled the rear hardware off, set my axle on jack stands and lowered the frame which pulled the axle off the springs. I rolled the axle over and welded up the saddles, primed everything, put it all back together and put a whole can of engine block semigloss on it and it is DONE!!!

Now I need some tires and I officially have a rolling ch***is!!!!!! I still have to wait for the body to go on as my rear shocks still seem too short, but with my wife and I sitting on the back crossmember it goes down a good 2 inches, so I am sure with a 800 lbs of body they will work. We'll see.

Next month I get my christmas savings money which my wife and I agreed we are blowing on the truck, so I will get my steering column, wire harness and all the other big ticket items I can think of, I think the body panels etc are easier to buy in little bits since they tend to be under $100, but it is coming along!! Pics soon....

oldman2 · Oct 11, 2011

Sound great, glad to see things coming together.....Jim

Chevy54 · Oct 11, 2011

What harness are you gonna get? Oh yeah...glad to hear you saved your teeth!

JJTF · Oct 12, 2011

Great thread! I bought my 41 running/driving, freshened up the top end & have been driving it for two years. I pulled it apart last weekend to finally address the "hack job" & rebuild the front suspension; looks very similar to your "before" frame pics. Down the rabbit hole I go, just wanted to compliment the frame grafting pics & your work; time permitting will start a thread of my own peril.
cheers,
joel

shadams · Oct 12, 2011

oldman2 said: ↑

Sound great, glad to see things coming together.....Jim
Click to expand...

thanks!

Chevy54 said: ↑

What harness are you gonna get? Oh yeah...glad to hear you saved your teeth!
Click to expand...

I have heard good things about rebel wiring, what did you use?

JJTF said: ↑

 Great thread! I bought my 41 running/driving, freshened up the top end & have been driving it for two years. I pulled it apart last weekend to finally address the "hack job" & rebuild the front suspension; looks very similar to your "before" frame pics. Down the rabbit hole I go, just wanted to compliment the frame grafting pics & your work; time permitting will start a thread of my own peril.
cheers,
joel
Click to expand...

thanks for lookin and good luck on yours!!

Chevy54 · Oct 22, 2011

I used the Rebel kit. Its very well laid out and having it all built into the panel is super easy too. My only complaint is for the directions, they try to keep it so simple as not to confuse you, but for guys like me who really need to over think the electrical part I needed more info....a wiring diagram would help for sure. In the end with the help from my electrically minded buddies it all worked out nicely. Id use them again for sure as it was very cost effective. I used the Bare Bonz from Ron Francis in my 54 and it was a great very informative kit with perfect step by step directions. It was alot of work tho as I had to build the whole panel and all along with being 4 times the price. Im happy with both but would choose Rebel out of the two if I bought another! Let me know if you need more info bro, post some updates too!

55Hydramatic · Oct 22, 2011

Its crazy what people consider "repairs", that thing was hacked up pretty good before you started messing with it! Looking good

shadams · Jun 4, 2015

Finally got some wheels/tires on, mix and match but whatever, just need something to move it around while I get going on body repairs.

shadams · Jun 4, 2015

First trip outside, even rinsed it off a bit!!

So what do you think about this. The first line, from the end of the yoke, is how far in the yoke goes when the drive shaft is installed. The second line is when it is bottomed out inside the transmission. Is my shaft in deep enough (hehe)? BTW, I marked it at the tail shaft seal..

I would think it would need to be roughly in the middle of the two lines, and if so I will have to have a new one made up...

oldman2 · Oct 30, 2011

Ch***is and engine look great, nice job....Jim

shadams · Jun 4, 2015

Scored yesterday, pretty big actually. Got basically a whole truck taken apart for next to nothing. Best part is most of the body pieces are in near perfect shape and much better that what I have. I am stoked!!

The truck has an awesome patina to it, so I think I am going to clean everything up, repair what little rust damage there is, and slap it back together like it is on my ch***is. This is really what I was after to begin with, an original looking truck with a strong base so that it is reliable

shadams · Nov 20, 2011

BTW got a bunch of stuff for sale in the cl***ifieds if anyone is interested...

oldman2 · Nov 20, 2011

Looks like you got a nice pickup there, put it together and drive it.....Jim

shadams · Jun 4, 2015

Got a bunch of goodies the other day! CPP paintable column, drop out battery box, REBEL wiring 9+3 harness (thanks Todd!) Lokar Radical 32 shifter and parking brake ***embly and March p/s bracket kit.

Finally got the power steering pump installed and all plumbed up, just need a longer belt now.

Shifter and PB installed, just need to get the cables hooked up. Of course I'll have to take it back off to put the cab on, but couldn't wait to see it on the trans.

So I was messing around the other day and painted my grille with Rustoleum metallic chrome paint. I had a few runs that I wet sanded with 800 grit and decided to sand down the whole thing and get it nice and smooth then go back with another coat. Midway through I decided I wanted to see how it looked so I finished the whole grille and dried if off good and WOW, it looked great. Has the perfect old worn grill look that will match the rest of the truck. The top b ar even has some little pinhole rust that gives it that authentic look. Will see how it looks installed. I also got a front bumper and brackets out of the deal and cant decide if it matches or not. I may strip it down and give it the same treatment.

Lastly, I need some advice soon. I am going to post up some pics of the floors in my cab and see if you guys think they can be fixed without having to replace them. There are some cracks where the flat floor bends up to create the toe board starting at the trans hole and coming inward about 6 inches. The rest of the floor seems solid, as well as underneath and the mounts aside from just surface rust. The area under the seat is pitted badly, but seems solid. After cleaning it up, is there something I can put down to fill in those pits or should I just paint over it and not worry about it? I am going to hit the area with the stripping pad and get a better look then post some pics, but I am curious if I can just tack up the cracks and roll with it. Of course, now would be the best time to replace the floor panels anyway, we will see.

shadams · Jun 4, 2015

Got my steering wheel today. Found this one on ebizzle and ******ed it up, seems to fit perfectly on my CPP column I bought. Said it was off a 65 Chevy, dont know what though, looks like maybe a Impala? Anyway, perfect look if you as me...

Also got all my patch panels ordered, got them from www.truckandcarshop.com
I priced everything I needed at LMC and a couple others and they were the cheapest. I ***ume they are all the same quality, at least I hope. They had free shipping for orders over $350 and only charged me 22 dollars to ship the floor pans which were "oversized". Should be here by the weekend so I can start on panel repairs/replacement.

sfort · Dec 8, 2011

Your truck is coming along great. I have been following your build. I recently bought a 50 myself and am trying to decide which direction to go. Did you find out the answer to the drive shaft question.

shadams · Dec 8, 2011

Thanks, yea it is too short. Oh well, gives me an excuse to have a new one made, no sense in stopping now, ha.. Hopefully I will get my body panels tomorrow so I have something to do this weekend...

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Projects 1950 3100 Truck Project

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