Projects Club Coupe+Business Coupe= 3 window :>)

You're car is way too cool to leave unfinished in the back of the shop!
Get the truck finished as working on more than one project at a time isn't productive. THEN ..GET ON THE COUPE! I also enjoyed the conversation and look forward to seeing your coupe progress to completion.
Warm regards,
George

 

While the attached is not my work..... it is for my project and I have contracted with Main Street Custom's "Matt" to have wood grain vaneer applied to the three die cast dash parts from "Vintique". The tachometer is special in that it is a current aftermarket "Sun" product that has been reworked to have the face match my original guages. The attached pictures are a first p*** mock up of putting the tachometer through the speaker grill. Although the pictures do not reflect the intended outcome, they are a start. For example: the speedometer , tachometer and clock faces will all be on the same plane. The photo's show the tachometer leaned back ...this will be corrected. Additionally, the transition from the top of the tach to the back of the grill will need to be improved. I will post pictures of the progress as it goes along.
Regards,
George

 

OK, got up this morning and hit the shop before heading to work. I wanted to get the running board into the SUNSHINE as we will have mid 80's today. I have clamped the cover to the board and it is a perfect fit. If you look at the picture there are 2 waves toward the back end and these are not in the rubber. I will need to try and straighten these waves out of the sheet metal before the second attempt at gluing this evening. I will most likely use a shrinking disk and my wife's windex. Wish me luck! The hard stuff has been a pleasure and this running board cover has not been very easy nor much of a pleasure.

 

More Dash progress pictures.... note that this is just painted construction paper and masking tape to get the direction outlined visually. MUCH BETTER I THINK.

 

Rushed home tonight to get started on the running board. First thing was to find what the waves were about (pic 1). Was fixed with a body hammer and a block underneath. I then re roughed up with scotch bright (pic 2) before wiping down with solvent (Pic 3) to clean residue off. Next was reclamping and folded back one edge for contact cement (pic 4). After drying for 20 min I folded over and clamped. (Pic 5) To secure until tomorrow night. I will slowly walk it over about 1 1/2 inches at a time and hopefully report the finished board over the weekend. I have also added an updated picture of the coupe as of tonight. Note she is missing one tail light bezel as it was defective and the folks at Drake would not accept a return since I bought them in 2009 and just opened them. (note:30 days is their policy) I found a pair of good used gennies and am waiting for them to ship.
Regards,
George

 

Here's the latest effort: trying to incorporate original center grill trim to keep as much of the original character as possible.(see attached pics) Please use your imagination to cross with the previous pictures for a flavor of where this is heading.
Note: The Tach "can" is now epoxied in place and the back now has a first coat of fibergl*** and resin to help retain the can.
regards,
George

 

Got busy and finished this one last night. No wrinkles, no waves. Good to go! If you look at the long radius down the right side of the picture you will hopefully understand why this is a little tricky to install. I did cheat a little by NOT using contact cement on the lip at the underside. I used weatherstrip adhesive (after the fact) and ran a bead the full length inside the groove before slipping it over the lower edge and using yard sticks to clamp in place.

Now all I have to do is learn one last new task...How to snap the stainless steel trim over the edge? I am thinking it's as easy as spraying it with some soapy water and then just slipping it on.
Regards,
George

 

it's all about th details isn't it? damn thing about those running boards is only half is visable unless it's a 4 door. mine were stainless

 

The running boards are finished..Stainless and all. Here's the rub....I dont know if I can live with the 48 trim on the boards. Any thoughts on whether it is OK as is?... or not? The first pic is finished installed drivers side. The second picture is the coupe with 46 belt line trim and 48 running board trim. The issue is that it is an easy fix NOW,... if I can find some 46 trim. Once the front cap goes on..THATS IT! No changing my mind.

The last picture is of my new rear gl***. I put the rubber gasket on it and left it in the sunshine today to get the gasket to learn the right shape. I can't put it in until my Mercury trim for it arrives. I took it down for proper storage after I looked at a few min.
Regards,
George

P.S. I'll post a better picture after the sunshine isn't coming straight into the lens.

 

I see no problem, looks fine. I've got a merc b/g trim hanging on the wall

 

I have accomplished a lot that doesn't show. The one exception: I installed the rear gl*** with the help of Ms. King. I held the gl*** up from the inside and had her pull the 16 guage insulated wire out of the groove. It was hard for her and I caught a little grief for having her do it. But, it's in (Picture attached)and still waiting on the Mercury trim to arrive. The fellow I bought it from is very nice, but very slow to ship. Note: I chose to go with the green colored gl*** as the 28% grey was way too dark+ it has an odd purplish tint too it. I also looked at using the 44% but just didn't care for it. For those of you yet to do this, the X% for gl*** is how much light comes through it. IE: The 44% is lighter (let's more light in)than the 28%. duh? smile

What else?
1. Installed front shocks and learned to run the nut down on the top until you are out of thread.
2. Glued vertical door rubber at the bottom edge.
3. Installed rubber isolater pads that just arrived for the running board bolts
4. bead blasted, primed and painted headlight buckets and inner buckets
5. buffed the stainless steel headlight bulb retainers and bezels to a nice shiny new luster
6. buffed out the newly found NOS 46 door handles. I have brand new REPOPS if anyone needs them? CHEAP!
7. started cutting / installing channel in my door gl*** uprights. You have to be careful cutting them in order to not mangle the soft steel inner lining. I figured out it was best to cut them long knowing it would be mangled and then sand carefully to the length you need. This process yields a good result!

Regards,
George

 

I will be busy on the coupe this weekend but until then, I would like to share that my bumpers are through being plated. SORT OF! The front one came out very nice and I have attached a picture. The rear had many pits and a divit so it was not acceptable.They will rework and replate. It's OK as I am not in a hurry.
Regards,
George

 

I watch in awe!! lol......Jim

 

Last Weekend was a busy time in the shop. I had planned to get two things accomplished:
1. install the windshield wiper system as it is the first thing under the dash as I build from the inside of the firewall out to the dash
2. install anti rattle YM3 with stainless edge on the doors as well as the garnish moldings.

I got into the shop early Saturday morning and decided to begin by bead blasting/ painting my front bumper mounting brackets so I can take advantage of " between coats drying time" while I am taking on the two planned tasks. It took an hour to get all four brackets blasted, in primer and hung outside in the sunshine for drying.

Next, I opened up the box of parts for the wiper install and flipped through the instructions. Basically, you decide how to mount the motor to allow routing of the drive screw to both wiper arm masts. This was done for me by Marty Comstock years ago when my car was in his dad's shop. All I have to do is finish the job. Greasing the drive screw is step one. It's like packing wheel bearings...get a hand full of grease and have at, repeat over and over untill the entire length is well coated. I started at the drive end and coated a few feet to allow the first tube to be slid over. Next, I greased the following section and ***embled the first arm mast and second tube. The message here is:I went a section at a time to avoid having a long floppy (COVERED IN GREASE) drive screw to deal with. It WAS STILL A MESS but a more managable mess. YUCK! After getting it installed, I hooked up a small 1.5 amp battery charger to insure it worked and nothing moved. I decided I needed a car battery for enough amperage to run the motor and pulled one out of my 66 panel truck.(Clamped the wires on and turned the switch.) NOTHING? Decided to read the instructions. LOL. There are 2 power and 2 ground wires. All four wires must be hooked up at one time. OK. That's why they included instructions for the install. geeze. That sound we all know... "the wiper motor cycling" sure was sweet to hear. Wait ...what's that? both wiper shafts turn the same direction. That isn't going to work as the wiper blades will both be outbound and fold up to the top when in use Hmmmm.. Re-read the directions AGAIN and the second mast ***embly needs to be mounted 180 degrees on the drive screw to the first mast. OK. I flipped it over and all is well. I did not mount the wiper arms as the windshield gl*** has yet to be installed. This was a pretty straight forward task and would have been much easier if I had studied the instructions rather than just scan them over.

Washed up, pulled the bumper brackets inside to the small paint booth and shot them with Sherwin Williams "Pro" rattle can. Hung them back outside and was off to find some lunch. I definitely must have an attention deficit dissorder because I pulled into Lowe's for hardware that I keep forgetting to pick up. I know I need 4 different types and can only think of three when I am there. Bummer. I stop in the "El Volcanos" and take a much needed long lunch break. Good thing I am not on the clock. LOL

When I get back home, I install 2 of the three hardware items I had purchased. The third one is the wrong size. What can I say. DUMMY! Make a list, go to the store once and complete the task the first time would only make sense. Oh well, that lunch sure was heavy ..I need a nap. Too much work to do for that. I do turn on a football game and decide its time to attack the anti rattle strip. This post is long enough for now...But let me tell you this. My first attempt was an unmittigated dissaster. More later.
regards,
George

 

Nice work George, love the build.

 

The long awaited rear window trim arrived yesterday and I went to the shop after dinner to get it installed. The first thing was to carefully buff the stainless. The straight section went fast with the corners taking a lot of effort to not get "grabbed" by the buffing wheel and be severely damaged. I think we have all been there. So I went slow and easy and got it done without incident.
I taped a shipping quilt on the back of my car to protect the finish while I leaned across from the sides to push , pull and shove on the trim. I loaded the groove with a piece of wire and then had at it. She did not go right in, but took some teeth gritting and windex to finally get it coaxed into place. All pretty. I taped the top in place and did not push the clip on yet. I may have to take it all out and glue the window seal to the gl*** as I had quite the leak of windex on the inside. bummer.
No biggie , as it is much easier now, than having a leak into a new interior next year.
Regards,
George

 

lookin good george, I'm glad you didn't need my Merc trim. I'm going to use it now lol.....Jim

 

Your at***ude and patience are as impressive as the build. thanks for sharing.

 

Very nice build!

 

I haven't had much time to be in the shop for a couple of months due to a big new product launch at work. I have been to China, Malaysia and India visiting factories and am happy to see some daylight. I think I have a few months before having to do Manaus, Brazil in the Spring.

My rear window leaked so it had to be pulled and re installed with some silicone sealant. I have attached a picture with a wood block holding the trim while the silicone drys. Also note that my rear bumper is now installed. The plating was completed after having to send off for copper/buff. The 1946 logo was painted ford blue by my pin striping friend , "Rody".

Both door gl***es are installed and I will work on fabricating the metal for felt strips tomorrow. I have to order some flat head screws that are undercut to fasten down the the strips before adding the adhesive backed felt.

I had ordered gl*** for the windshield and it was more blue than the coke bottle green for the rest of the car. I had the local fellow that cut my door gl*** ... "Auto Gl*** by Phil" take windshield patterns today, in order to make them in the same color green as the rest of the gl***. I hope to start on the re-***embly of the brakes and clutch hydraulics tomorrow.

Glad to be in the shop again.

regards,
George

 

George, I am very envious of your three window build. A gentleman I worked with at Edwards AFB had a '41 business coupe that he was going to make into a three window. Unhappily, he p***ed away about a year ago. Did not make it past the planning stage.
I am considering using that idea on my parts '41 Business Coupe. This will be after I do my '41 Fordor. Nothing too big, Chopped two inches, sectioned two inches and channelled two inches. Just a few minot mods. Can't swing a Hemi, will use a Y-Block with three Deuces and all dolled up.

Dave

 

Busy as a cat with a ball of yarn... My wiring effort is coming along as well as gl*** install and a/c lines. I fully expect to get to turn the key in the ignition and try firing her up in another 2 week ends. All my gl*** is installed with the drivers side operating smooth as silk and the p***enger decide set up too tight. I have mountedall A/c hardware and have to punch out a hole in the radiator core support to get the final lines run before running up to the Pirtek hydraulic hose shop for crimping lines Friday.

The biggest issue on the harness install has been that the shortening of the wiring to prevent a bunch of coiled up excess under the dash. Rather than cut and splice, I have been finding replacement terminals and recrimping new ends. I am using number one welding wire for my battery cables and have soldered the ends on with rosin core flux rather than crimping.

Regards,
George

 

Looking good George...did ya find them door handles yet ?

 

Wiring update: After 8 man days of sorting, cutting, crimping... adding relays, the time came yesterday to turn the key of the ignition hanging there before dash install.

1st the good news: electric fuel pump started humming when the key was turned to on ..thats positive. grin
then the bad news: when turning the key to start: NOTHING HAPPENED!

Well POOH???? Now what???

Let's see, ignition to neutral safety switch. check
Neutral safety back to the relay. check
Relay grounded...Hmmm tightened that up. Check

try again... nothing

Run a jumper wire straight from ignition to solenoid..works perfect so something in the circuit down to the neutral safety switch and back. hmmm?

****** is in neutral...but ohm out the switch and it's open. Must be a bad switch. Ofcourse, just cut the leads off the Tremec Switch to enable a socket for ease of getting it off. Bench test the switch and it is GOOD. geeze! I jsut ruined a good switch. $54 WASTED DOLLARS

Add a closed loop pig tail to the wiring harness and all good.... she turns over perfect.????? What the heck??

Ordered a replacement switch. My only guess is that either the mating connectors were not seated well or the switch was stuck open after years of non use until I pushed the plunger ball multiple times.

There isn't any adjustment to theTremec linkage so I can only ***ume it is working correctly with regards to the neutral safety switch. Ill make sure the replacement switch is in good working order and try it again.

The Tremec is very hard to shift! stiff and unhappy to move between gears.


Other topic..gl*** install is completed. I need trim screws for the center post stainless.

 

Looking great George, still very impressive! I think I have the same 90 degree set up for my booster etc, just curious, where did you get the round rubber pedals?

 

http://store.bobdrake.com/19upbigfortr.html

They are large truck pedal pads. (1948 and up). Just weld a threaded bung at the bottom of each arm and then screw the pedal pad ***embly on.
regards,
George

 

Thanks for the info George!

 

TREMEC TKO 500 neutral safety switch update:

The neutral safety switch isn't broken....it just isn't actuated! The switch only works when the shifter is in the rear location. When you pull the shifter out and move it forward to the the midmount location, there is no longer anything there to push the ball switch. I did not realize this and spent the time to trouble shoot and order a replacement switch. Hopefully my tuition in the school of experience will save one of you the grief!

I AM PULLING THE NEUTRAL SAFETY SWITCH HARNESS WIRES OUT OF THE LOOM AND MOVING UP TO THE CLUTCH PEDAL. I will ADD A SWITCH, JUST LIKE THE BRAKELIGHT SWITCH.

This way, you will have to have the clutch engaged to get the circuit closed in order to allow the solenoid to do its thing. IE: SAFETY.

Problem solved.

Regards,
George

 

[/QUOTE]
" I will ADD A SWITCH, JUST LIKE THE BRAKELIGHT SWITCH."

Fabricated a bracket...tapped holes on the pedal mount to add it ..pulled the wires up from the ****** and this is one more build issue CLOSED.

 

Hello,
I received these updated progress photo's from Larry Braun the sculptor/artist this morning. Just sharing and getting excited. Larry will cast this hood ornament in stainless steel so we can polish it and not have to fool with plating. Note that the wings will be straight and not curved. The resin moved this way in the first wax mold. The casting issues are significant in controlling shrinkage. The part must be made a little wider and a lot longer to end up the right size after the foundry pour.
regards,
George