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Who insulates inside of their doors?

Discussion in 'The Hokey Ass Message Board' started by tracer55, Oct 5, 2011.

  1. tracer55
    Joined: Aug 29, 2005
    Posts: 380

    tracer55
    Member
    from ohio

    Finishing up insulating my model a project and I am ready to tackle the doors. Not sure what to use. I realize their will be the chance of the insulation getting wet and holding water. What is everybody using for this. Also want to deaden the noise a bit.
    Any suggestions will be appreciated.

    Thanks,

    Looking for a 30/31 open car dash rail.
     
  2. Dakota Boy
    Joined: Sep 8, 2010
    Posts: 173

    Dakota Boy
    Member
    from Racine, WI

    dyna-mat type of material.
     
  3. Von Rigg Fink
    Joined: Jun 11, 2007
    Posts: 13,401

    Von Rigg Fink
    Member
    from Garage

    I just took the foil backed bubble wrap you can get at home depot , used 3m spray adhesive and made panels and stuck em in place..hey im on a budget

    works fine so far, and once the door panels are on the windows are in and all I think it will add some insualting qualities if not only for sound but heat and cold too due to the dead airspace
     
    Last edited: Oct 29, 2012
  4. greg32
    Joined: Jun 21, 2007
    Posts: 2,266

    greg32
    Member
    from Indiana

    I dont like dynamat inside doors. Think its going to hold moisture over time, plus it makes a nice steel door sound like a fibergl*** car when closing it. I like the sound of tin.Henry had a tar like coating on his, still inside my 32 eighty years later.
     
  5. gnichols
    Joined: Mar 6, 2008
    Posts: 11,412

    gnichols
    Member
    from Tampa, FL

    A body man / painter buddy of mine does not recommend insulation on the inner doors as it may hold water, as mentioned already above. If anything, I'd use some sort of spray on stuff. I'd also recommend a layer of clear plastic sheet, like the newer cars have, to keep the rain water away from the back of the door's upholstery materials. And don't forget some good sized drain holes. Gary
     
  6. musicrodder
    Joined: Aug 24, 2006
    Posts: 65

    musicrodder
    Member
    from Upstate NY

    x2 on what greg32 wrote. Mine has no insulation, foil, or coating. If it gets wet, it dries faster than being covered. It also gives a nice bell sound to the original Henry tin showing how there isn't any filler on the doors.
     
  7. If you absolutely must turn down the music when closing the doors, liquid truck bed liner. Kind of like putting something around the tailgate chains and the sweet sound as you cruise down the road, in my 26 pickup, it aint happening, TR
     
    Last edited: Oct 5, 2011
  8. Theres always my favorite route to help with the noise of closing the doors, much more HAMB friendly- a overdriven supercharger and a solid cam, TR
     
  9. i.rant
    Joined: Nov 23, 2009
    Posts: 4,777

    i.rant
    ALLIANCE MEMBER

    Try spraying lizard skin,a bud did it on his car & is very happy with it.
     
  10. ROBERT JAM
    Joined: Nov 13, 2002
    Posts: 1,284

    ROBERT JAM
    Member

    Lizard skin in my doors, works well!
     
  11. 5window
    Joined: Jan 29, 2005
    Posts: 9,985

    5window
    Member

    This is exactly what I did in my '31 A Coupe-works fine.
     
  12. I added a piece of roofing membrane(iceshield?) to the door skin, works as a sound dampener.
     
  13. historynw
    Joined: May 26, 2008
    Posts: 806

    historynw
    Member

    I used the dynamat sound deadner and some of the strip stuff the shop buys. A little 3M spray adhesive and a heat gun to sofen the dynamat. My 47 Chevy had thick factory tar stuff sprayed in and it wasn't coming loose. I didn't use insulation materials as mentioned due to moisture. My door sound like rocks now when you rap on them and there is no hollow or tinny sound. I figured using the insulation was overboard. The interior shop is going to use ABS material to make new door panels.
     
  14. mj40's
    Joined: Dec 11, 2008
    Posts: 3,303

    mj40's
    Member


    Like gnichols says; drain holes. When it rains or washing your car the water will run off the bottom of the window tracks. It will usually just fall to the bottom of the doors. I personally like to insulate but use the kind that will not hold water and love the sound of a solid door when it is closed. There are several types that is designed to be used in headliners for a heat shield. It usually has a self adhesive side the you peal and stick to the door skin. Just my 2 cents.
     
  15. Graham M
    Joined: Apr 17, 2011
    Posts: 405

    Graham M
    Member
    from Calgary AB

    Dynamat, brown bread, B-quiet & B quiet extreme all work great. I use b quiet extreme everywhere and it's very quiet. You can even double it up for added protection. Any car audio installation place will sell it by the ft2. Or eBay is a good bet as well.

    If you're unsure of how to apply it, the techs at the installation studio can give you a bunch of really good tips, but there are also plenty of "how to" videos on YouTube as well. It's not hard to install
     
  16. Deuce Roadster
    Joined: Sep 8, 2002
    Posts: 9,519

    Deuce Roadster
    Member Emeritus

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]

    On my 32 3W coupe,
    I used both the Lizard Skin and DynaMat.


    I sprayed the Lizard Skin on the inner skin of the door. Then I installed the DynaMat over the Lizard Skin. I then sprayed the outer skin of the door ( taped up the holes ) with Lizard Skin.
    The interior door panels are also of a insulating nature. My coupe doors are very solid sounding when you shut them. The Lizard Skin and the DynaMat helps make the coupe quiet and easy to heat/cool. The Vintage Air Generation II Mini will freeze you out inside of the coupe.


    [​IMG]
    .
     
  17. Gearhead Graphics
    Joined: Oct 4, 2008
    Posts: 3,890

    Gearhead Graphics
    Member
    from Denver Co

    I've always sprayed rubberized undercoating on the insides of my doors for noise control. Sometimes even add some rolled roofing (tar paper) and another coat of undercoat on top of it.
    Fibergl*** be damned, I like a solid sounding door and less road noise.
     
  18. scootermcrad
    Joined: Sep 20, 2005
    Posts: 12,383

    scootermcrad
    Member

    Did any of you use a seam sealer or something along those lines to help keep water from going where you don't want it before it drains out the over-sized drain holes that really need to be there?? I'm working on my doors right now, so this is GREAT timing for this thread!
     
  19. djust
    Joined: May 31, 2006
    Posts: 1,230

    djust
    Member
    from Oklahoma

    I used FatMat on mine it's similar to Dynamat but way cheaper.
    Not to worried about moisture since it will only see rain when I get caught by it.
    I really like the solid sound the doors make when they shut, and I am hoping they help a little with the sound of the Lake headers.
     
  20. gnichols
    Joined: Mar 6, 2008
    Posts: 11,412

    gnichols
    Member
    from Tampa, FL

    On my 37 sedan, I did metal prep on the bottom of the doors and then spray on undercoat over that. Gary
     
  21. pasadenahotrod
    Joined: Feb 13, 2007
    Posts: 11,772

    pasadenahotrod
    Member
    from Texas

    Any and all doors should have a front, center, and rear drain hole in the bootm of the door. Henry's boys did the right thing, globbed that stuff on the crown of the panels and stayed away from the seams, joints and the doors had drains.
     
  22. INSULATE - DEFINATELY!
    We sprayed in undercoating/bedliner stuff first and then a layer of foil backed "Peel and Seal" self sticking mat found at the building suppliers. Read about it here on the HAMB. Lots cheaper than D Mat. Probably add another layer sometime too. Still too much noise so I had a raft of plastic trash bags (clean ones) and stuffed a few in each door and the truck lid. Yes, a few drain holes too.
     
  23. oj
    Joined: Jul 27, 2008
    Posts: 6,589

    oj
    Member

    I use Thermo-Tec on all my projects, very similar to dynamat just easier on the pocket. I use a carpet roller gizmo to install it, it has a bunch of toothed rollers and it sets the mat super tight.
    I haven't used seamseal inside the doors, i get the 3m seamseal in quart cans and it would be hard to apply it, maybe the calk tube seam seal - couldn't hurt.
    I also install vapor barrier.
    I pay very close attention to the latches, dovetails and hinges. I like to add m*** to the doors, when they open or close the person doing so gets a feeling of solid. I like the double click of the model 'a' door latches when they close, i do everything possible to make that sound as crisp as possible and with the extra m*** when the door does that final click and seats it does so with authority.
     
  24. oj, most of you guy's forgot more about bodywork than I'll ever know, but FWIW I like the 3M ALL AROUND Autobody Sealant, part# 08500, 10 oz. calking tube, good stuff, TR
     
  25. Inland empire hot rods
    Joined: Aug 5, 2010
    Posts: 1,060

    Inland empire hot rods
    Member
    from so cal

    marked for reference, thanks again HAMBers
     
  26. HOTRODPRIMER
    Joined: Jan 3, 2003
    Posts: 64,753

    HOTRODPRIMER
    ALLIANCE MEMBER

    I used dynamat in the doors,ceiling and quarter panels on the wagon,,as for holding water I seriously doubt that but even if it does it can't be a bit worse than when I rebuilt the car and I will be long gone by the time that happens~!:D HRP
     
  27. tommy
    Joined: Mar 3, 2001
    Posts: 14,756

    tommy
    Member Emeritus

    [​IMG]

    I left mine in place. These are pieces pulled from my Deuce roadster by me. This just for proof the rest was left in place. When my buddy and I looked at the car he told me the doors were fibergl***. Too solid for a Deuce roadster. I said no it's not, I can see where the skin is folded over. It was several weeks later that I discovered the newspapers. Jan and Feb 1951 LA times and LA Mirror.

    [​IMG]
     
  28. jimbousman
    Joined: Jul 24, 2008
    Posts: 549

    jimbousman
    Member

    X2 Dupi-Color Bed liner spray in a rattle can. Several coats
     
  29. Deuce Roadster
    Joined: Sep 8, 2002
    Posts: 9,519

    Deuce Roadster
    Member Emeritus

    [​IMG]

    Lizard Skin and Dyna-Mat were not available when I rebuilt my 32 Roadster last time. But as I rebuild it this time ... I sprayed Lizard Skin on the firewall, cowl panels and the floor. I also have Dyna-Mat to cover the Lizard Skin. :)

    I used both in my 32 3W coupe and I believe that it makes a large difference in the heat in the car and the noise transfer.

    I am not doing the doors on the 32 Roadster ... mainly because it is a roadster and I am not trying to keep the A/C and heat in the car. The Lizard Skin and Dyna-Mat will keep the heat from the engine on the other side of the firewall.

    .
     
  30. klawockvet
    Joined: May 1, 2012
    Posts: 620

    klawockvet
    Member

    Take the wife or SO to Honolulu and buy a dozen Dec 7, 1941 newspapers. Wad them up and put them in the doors. Newspapers were the traditional thing to do up through the late fifties in our family.
     

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