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TIG Welders Longevity

Discussion in 'The Hokey Ass Message Board' started by Drakkar, Oct 2, 2011.

  1. Drakkar
    Joined: Mar 11, 2007
    Posts: 50

    Drakkar
    Member

    Anyone out there got a longevity tig welder? Yes guys i know that its an off brand name but i am having a little trouble with mine wondering if anyone out there has one? You like the machine? I have about 25 days left on my warranty and this thing just ain't actin right. I've used millers in the past but i just dont have the bones for one these days. Any welders out there????
     
  2. ottoman
    Joined: May 4, 2008
    Posts: 341

    ottoman
    Member
    from Wisconsin

    How about some more info? Not acting right.. how?
     
  3. AntiBling
    Joined: Jul 25, 2004
    Posts: 612

    AntiBling
    Member

  4. Drakkar
    Joined: Mar 11, 2007
    Posts: 50

    Drakkar
    Member

    I have the tig set up for aluminum. AC cranked (1/4 aluminum) pre flow and post flow set. I am running high frequency but i am just not getting a weld pool. My tungsten is at a point ( i have head that it has to be at a ball but i have seen it done at a point before). My argon is set at 20. My machine has the ability to do a pulse function but i dont want to get into that till i can set up a pool. The material i am welding is 3003. I am lost to be honest. Mig welding and TIG steel is not a problem!!! Help!! :(
     
  5. gimpyshotrods
    Joined: May 20, 2009
    Posts: 24,516

    gimpyshotrods
    ALLIANCE MEMBER

    What are your volt/amp settings? Is your aluminum clean enough to do surgery on?
     
  6. ryno
    Joined: Oct 6, 2005
    Posts: 3,469

    ryno
    Member

    what size and kind/color tungsten are you using?
     
  7. JohnEvans
    Joined: Apr 13, 2008
    Posts: 4,883

    JohnEvans
    Member
    from Phoenix AZ

    A friend of mine welds with a pointed tungsten also. How many amp is that machine? Rule of thumb says 1 amp per .001 thickness. Try pre heating makes a world of diff. Get your material 250-300 degrees and try it.
     
  8. Drakkar
    Joined: Mar 11, 2007
    Posts: 50

    Drakkar
    Member

    I am using the red tungsten. Metal has been prepped with a grinder and cleaned with dupont prepsol (Im a body guy). The tungsten is thin i can get the exact specs on it in the am but i am not burning up tungsten. Amps are set at 5 but the knob is cranked all the way to the right. My digital output will not change no matter what the setting is.
     
  9. Mark Leigh
    Joined: Oct 2, 2007
    Posts: 9

    Mark Leigh
    Member

    To weld 1/4" aluminum with a tig welder you need a minimum of 200 plus amps and a 1/8" tungsten.

    If you are laying your work piece directly on a steel table it will make it even harder as the heat will transfer through the table.

    If it's a small piece and you can pre heat it, you might get by.
     
  10. Drakkar
    Joined: Mar 11, 2007
    Posts: 50

    Drakkar
    Member

    i honestly dont think that the machine is working correctly... I've had to replace it twice so that it would even strike an arch. I've used millers in the past. HAve you guys ever used this brand (longevity) with any success?
     
  11. Drakkar
    Joined: Mar 11, 2007
    Posts: 50

    Drakkar
    Member

    @ AntiBling registered at welding web gonna see what they go to say! Thanks for the responses guys rest easy... and for every ones sake dont rest in peace!
     
  12. flatmotor40
    Joined: Apr 14, 2010
    Posts: 678

    flatmotor40
    Member
    from georgia

    Red is for steel
     
  13. noboD
    Joined: Jan 29, 2004
    Posts: 8,980

    noboD
    Member

    You need green.
     
  14. theHIGHLANDER
    Joined: Jun 3, 2005
    Posts: 10,728

    theHIGHLANDER
    Member

    Green or gold for aluminum. Red will act just as you say in my small Miller. Try it and get back to us.
     
  15. SUHRsc
    Joined: Sep 27, 2005
    Posts: 5,098

    SUHRsc
    Member

    Just checking.... is your ground wire attached securely?
     
  16. gimpyshotrods
    Joined: May 20, 2009
    Posts: 24,516

    gimpyshotrods
    ALLIANCE MEMBER

    Not necessarily. I weld aluminum with red, all of the time. Successful certification grade, x-ray'd, and destructively tested welds, at that.
     
  17. Drakkar
    Joined: Mar 11, 2007
    Posts: 50

    Drakkar
    Member

    I was using red ( thoriated 2%) i picked up some green (2% Ceriated Tungsten) this morning. Yes ground is secured correctly. I did manage one clean weld with the red last night but was very dissatisfied with the quality will let you guys know how i make out with the green... Tungsten that is!
     
  18. gimpyshotrods
    Joined: May 20, 2009
    Posts: 24,516

    gimpyshotrods
    ALLIANCE MEMBER

    Your unit may need to have its spark gap adjusted. This is done inside the machine. The specs for it should be in the operator manual. Adjustment is typically self-explanatory.
     
  19. Drakkar
    Joined: Mar 11, 2007
    Posts: 50

    Drakkar
    Member

    Manual for this machine is pretty bare in print ill have to take a look at their website's forum to see how to adjust it. Thanks for the tip!
     
  20. gimpyshotrods
    Joined: May 20, 2009
    Posts: 24,516

    gimpyshotrods
    ALLIANCE MEMBER

    You might need to contact them. The website is pretty bare too.
     
  21. telecaster_6
    Joined: Dec 8, 2001
    Posts: 658

    telecaster_6
    Member

    What are you trying to weld? Some aluminum alloys are completely unweldable. Do you know what alloy it is? What alloy filler are you using? Certain alloys will require different filler materials. Are you storing your filler correctly (sealed container). You need to make sure to completely remove the oxide layer from the base aluminum you are trying to weld with a CLEAN stainless steel wire brush. Scrub the living **** out of it...it will become really "hard" to scrub and you'll see the really bright non glossy aluminum underneath. The shiny layer on top is the oxide layer which melts around 2400 degrees versus the 1200 degrees of the actual aluminum base metal. You need to completely remove that layer to put down a nice weld with a small hobby type machine. You probably dont have the amperage or advanced waveforms to weld through it.
     
  22. Drakkar
    Joined: Mar 11, 2007
    Posts: 50

    Drakkar
    Member

    I have a 220 amp machine. The aluminum is 3003. Last night i managed to get one bead down before my argon ran out! I was using the wrong tungsten... (silly me) As far as oxide goes i cleaned the metal with a flap disk the went to town. Filler rod i would have to get back to you. I'll post a couple pics tonight when i get my bottle switched out
     
  23. Drakkar
    Joined: Mar 11, 2007
    Posts: 50

    Drakkar
    Member

    Got some beads laid nothing to pretty. Pulse function is not working on this machine. Or at least not well... Have you guys had a similar problem with these machines?
     
  24. tig master
    Joined: Apr 9, 2009
    Posts: 416

    tig master
    Member
    from up north


    Green is "pure not ceriated" ceriated is orange.

    Is this an inverter you don't say.

    Green not used on alum with an inverter.

    Inverter sharpen to a point no ball on end.

    Red tung will work with invevrter.

    Tig
     
  25. tig master
    Joined: Apr 9, 2009
    Posts: 416

    tig master
    Member
    from up north


    Flap disc won't clean alum for welding! Just imbeds **** into base material.Will give you nightmares when you attempt a weld especially a newbie as you don't know how to read the puddle.

    Stainless brush only,one that hasn't been anywhere but alum.

    Tig
     
  26. Mark Hinds
    Joined: Feb 20, 2009
    Posts: 616

    Mark Hinds
    Member
    from pomona ca

    If you want to surprise yourself welding 1/4 inch aluminum try welding it like steel, dc current but use helium instead of argon, you will melt that aluminum so fast it will spin your head. Doesn't work on thinner material 1/8 minimum for experianced welders.......
     
  27. Drakkar
    Joined: Mar 11, 2007
    Posts: 50

    Drakkar
    Member

    I can adjust the ac frequency of my machine which would mean that it is an inverter right? I was using the green ( Yes you were right TIG my mistake... I did pick up some orange 2% though). Ill go grab a stainless steel brush if you recommend it. I have my argon set at 10psi with a pre and post flow of above 5 seconds. My ac frequency is in the 65-75% range and my balance is set about the same. I am having trouble starting an arc with the green. Red tungsten would just disappear as soon as a arc was struck. Machine was set at 50 amps. Any hints on getting the machine to strike an arc? I have a high frequency option on the machine that works great with steel but not so much with aluminum. You have to hold the torch for 5-6seconds after the pedal is depressed to strike an arc. Doesn't seem right to me...

    When should the orange 2% be used?

    when should i use the green (pure)?

    What are some base settings that you guys have had success with welding 1/4 aluminum?


    Thanks for all the suggestions guys. I am by no means a trained welder. Any help i can get i greatly appreciate!
     
  28. GARY?
    Joined: Aug 15, 2005
    Posts: 1,631

    GARY?
    Member

    Just a correction to add.

    GREEN is pure Tungsten.
    GREY or Orange is 2% Ceriated
    RED is 2% Thoriated
     
    Last edited: Oct 5, 2011
  29. Drakkar
    Joined: Mar 11, 2007
    Posts: 50

    Drakkar
    Member

    Yes you are right my mistake but i have some orange which reads 2% ceriated on the package put out by a company called randor.
     
  30. Drakkar
    Joined: Mar 11, 2007
    Posts: 50

    Drakkar
    Member

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